I have santafe 3.5 2012 4WD , it's 51K on odometer, the problem when cold startup , Noise and small vibrate form front side , its look like from gears
When put to reverse (R) sound is louder and strong vibration from front side, all this problem gone when drive about 15 minutes.
I have visit 3 local shop they check the engine, gear box, everything normal, no check indicator appears.
so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
Bought 2009 santa fe new [3.3]. after cold start up tac is moving up and down and it seems to be missing. After temp is reached tac is steady but there still seem to be a hesitation when driving. 21,000 miles on vehicle. could it be a bad tbs?
View 4 RepliesTwice this week our 2009 SantaFe (3.3l) had a squeal from the engine upon cold startup. The first time it was very cold (-20C or so) and this was louder and longer than the second time (-10C or so). The squeal lasted only a few seconds and trailed off to nothing. Each time the heater controls were set on defrost (fyi). In order of likely suspects, I suspect one of the following:
-compressor engaging and causing sudden increase in resistance on the belt or compressor engagement clutch noisy
-idler pulley for some reason causing belt to slip at first, but don't suspect idler bearing as noise disappears right away
-belt slippage due to resistance somewhere else--e.g. water pump or alternator.
This may not happen when I take the vehicle in for its next scheduled maintenance as by then the weather will likely be warmer. This has 76000 km on the clock.
My 2008 Santa Fe 3.3 with 18,000 miles, developed an annoying surging when first put into gear after sitting overnight. I must keep my foot firmly on the brake as I back out of the driveway. If I press gently on the brake I can feel the car jerk or surge and show higher than normal rpms on tach. The jerkiness will go away entirely after a few miles and the rpms will return to normal at idle at a stoplight or stop sign. Is this something that would be covered under my factory warranty? Car was purchased Jan. 2009. I also notice that when the car starts in the morning it goes to a very fast idle. Is that normal? I would think that with the way the oil filter is mounted that the engine might have to wait for oil to return to the filter before it can get to the engine. What could be the cause of my problem? And is it likely my warranty should cover the repairs?
View 4 Replies2011 Santa Fe 3.5 L
I've isolated this rattle down to the cam phaser( CVVT) in the right cylinder head. It rattles bad for 2-3 secs on cold start or after it sits for 3 hours.
I've put in 5w20 synthetic oil and synthetic Lucas additive and it cleared up the noise for short interval start ups.
I changed the cam phaser in the right head with a used one ( 40k ) but it didn't make a difference. I should change out the attaching cam as well.
Its been getting quite cold here lately at night and in the morning when i go to the santa fe it makes a ticking noise for about 2-3 seconds and everything is fine again. I was thinking of dropping a quart of transmission fluid in the crankcase run it for a bit and change the oil?
View 14 RepliesOur 2009 Santa Fe AWD Limited shifts hard first thing in the morning when my wife shifts into reverse to back out of our parking space. This is a real hard THUD kind of shift, where the car jerks. After that, all shifting is normal. We don't have any other problems with the transmission when driving.
View 6 RepliesI have Hyundai Santa Fe, 2009 (automatic). when I start engine in the morning everything is fine except the reverse gear. the reverse gear moves to position easily but the car does not move. After 5 minutes of starting engine, the reverse gear works again.
View 1 RepliesHere is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
I have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.
I am having with our 2010 Santa Fe GLS (2.4L). Whenever I am stopped and in gear, I have an excessive about of engine vibration IMHO, my wife thinks not, but it just doesn't feel right to me. I can feel it in the seat and people sitting in the passenger side and in the back can also feel it. If I bump into neutral or am accelerating, the vibration goes away. I have no issues with hesitation or loss of power and no other issues/check engine light, etc. This has been happening since we purchased the vehicle, and I mentioned it to the dealer and was given the response that the engine needed sufficient time to be broken in...... I now have 15,000 miles and it still is an issue.
View 3 RepliesWhile we continue to enjoy our recently acquired Mineral Gray 2011 Santa Fe, I have noted a momentary engine noise upon startup after it has been shut down for say 2 hours or more.
The noise reminds me of having an oil filter with a malfunctioning or absent drain back valve where by the bearings will complain for 2-3 seconds until oil pressure rebuilds
The SF has but 20.7K miles on it to date. Do we know of this is usual for the V6, or should I be concerned and planning a dealer visit?
I love the power of the V6! We test drove a 4 cylinder model first thinking that was the way to go for economy reasons. I found this one with such low mileage, AWD, and the V6 at a great price so we jumped on it.
I am a little disappointed though that the AWD does not function "full time" like that on my 04 Dodge Durango. The SF runs rings around the Durango in the mpg department though.
2009 Santa Fe only 40500 miles ... Should I Be concerned about the noise it has done this since I bought it in 2010 ...
View 2 RepliesMy new SANTA FE has merely covered 10000 km. The vehicle is running fine except a very irritating loud knocking noise from top of front windshield area. The noise is generated as soon as vehicle goes over a minor irregularity on road or even if you make a sharp right or left turn.
View 24 RepliesI bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
My 2007 CM Santa Fe 45K miles began acting up intermittently. We have owned it 5 years from new and never any issues whatsoever. My wife told me that first thing in the morning it made a horrible clanking noise and the entire car shuddered so she shut it off. Then it cranked and ran for days normally. The other morning I got in it and cranked it and man, it sounded like rods knocking, pistons slapping the crank, it was awful. Actually it sounded like premature or off time detonation, the engine would not idle and would die.
After a couple more tries the engine cranked and ran smoothly but with increasing idle speed and after two instances of normal cranking but idle increasing ever upward (same morning in sequence of 10 minutes or so of trying) I called AAA and had it carried to the dealer afraid oil pump giving out, timing belt jumped, bad crank / cam sensors, who knows? Oil was changed 5K ago with Hyundai toilet paper filter.
Anyway dealer found a code, something about engine torque excess - who knows - it wasn't causing the horrible cranking idling banging noise... did some ECM/ECU update, and repaired a TSB for the passenger side Airbag seat detector. They kept it over night and still could not make it occur.
My wife is really worried because honestly it sounds like it's going to throw a rod or something *I know it doesn't have them*. It's just a horrible gut wrenching noise. Dealer mechanics could not find anything wrong and they kept it overnight to crank it cold, and when we picked it up today it cranked fine.... She can't trust it anymore.
I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
Recently, my 2007 Santa Fe GLS (not AWD) has been experiencing a grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle while in reverse. What may be causing this?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa Fe V6 2WD. When I rock my steering wheel back and forth, I hear a knocking sound when engine is off. Sounds like maybe the steering gear box has play in it.
View 5 Replies