I have a new dog which I need to leave in the car occasionally (not when it is sunny etc). Is it possible to lock the santa fe 2010 without the sensors activated so the dog doesn't set the alarm off when moving around in the boot. I just tried locking the car using the key but it didn't do anything but I can unlock with the key!
View 4 RepliesI purchased this vehicle brand new this is the first real issue besides the poor paint quality. Ilove my Santa Fe! how can I fix this??
View 3 RepliesI just replaced the fuel sensors and know don't have power to the fuel pump. ( checked at the harness). I had to take the canister apart to get the sensor to go in and I had the rubber seal fall off the gas tank pressure sensor the first time I hooked it up. I did find that and put it back on. I checked the fuel pump fuse and switched out the fuel pump relay with the one for the horn and had no luck .
View 2 RepliesSo a couple days ago i replaced the fuel level sensors in my 07 gls 2.7 liter santa fe and all was well for 2 days. I had finally driven it enough that the codes cleared from active status and the car turned off the cel. However, during the same ignition cycle the engine started missing a bit and the cel came back on and started flashing at me. Codes found now are p2187 lean bank one and p2189 lean bank two, plus p0302 misfire detected cyl 2. I've tried the carb cleaner trick looking for a vacuum leak.. but no luck. Air intake boot is good vacuum lines look good etc. What might be going on? Did i get debris in the tank and glog an injector with it? Fuel pump itself appears to be operational. No bogging down or loss of power under heavy acceleration.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 07 Santa Fe goes into limp mode while she's on the freeway. Had it towed to a mechanic. They report codes were: 0101, 0102, 1295, 2105, 2106, 2173. They said the sensors in the gas pedal were sending bad signal to throttle which burned out the actuator. So they wanted to replace throttle body and gas pedal sensors. They wanted $895.
Didn't seem right, so towed it to dealer. They said the first mechs were just guessing. Only the throttle body needs replacing. They wanted $960 total.
I bought a used throttle body off another 07 SF with similar vin number to avoid needing the ecm to be reprogrammed. Cost $225.
Couldn't find procedure for replacement in my pdf shop manual. Seems like this should be simple though. Anything special I need to know? Am I on the right track?
Front Passenger Right Door child lock is not activated. But I can only open the door from the outside. Inside handle does work....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe and recently both rear doors don't respond to the car remote and even to the driver-side control panel on the door. The only way now to lock and unlock the rear doors is to manually do it from the inside. Both front doors are fine. What could be the problem with the rear doors? Is it just a fuse? Or do I need to open the door panel and have a look inside? If I do need to open the door panel, looking for instructions on how to open it.
View 26 RepliesWhile driving today I noticed that something didn't look right in the gearbox of my santa fe. It turns out that the cover for the shift lock release is gone. I have no clue what happened and for some reason its bugging me so I need to get one.
View 7 RepliesI have this problem with both the key fobs provided with my 2007 UK spec. Santa Fe 2.2crdi: The fob works only intermittently to lock/unlock the doors. I have replaced the CR2032 batteries, and the red light on the fob works as well. Is there a sensor that needs cleaning/adjusting?
View 1 RepliesMy driver door lock will not work with either of my key fobs. or with the switch on the inside. it has to be manually locked/unlocked or the key used in the door..
View 18 RepliesI have an 8 month old vehicle that will not lock the driver side door lock (using the power lock, fob and/or when you take the vehicle out of park). The issue seems to go away, but returns usually right after I get it back from the dealership. On a side note all of the other door locks activate and deactivate fine.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2011 Santa Fe. I had to take it in for service in April because the shift lock was not acting correctly. Since I have gotten it back, it will not honk when I press the remote button twice. It did before the service was performed. The lights flash properly and the doors are locked, but I still want it to honk sometimes. Is there something that was turned off that I can turn back on?
View 8 RepliesI started noticing that when I shift the car into reverse to back out of the driveway, the car door locks sound like they are trying to lock/unlock repeatedly for a couple of seconds. I know the car automatically locks the door when I shift out of park, but the multiple retries is a new behavior. All doors do lock. I do have the child locks enabled for the rear doors and that hasn't changed in 3-4 years. I also disabled them and the retries persist.
I have also noticed that around the same time (past month?) I must push the unlock button on the keyless entry remote twice to unlock all the doors--including the driver side door. In the past I only had to push the button once to just unlock the driver's door and the side lamps would flash, but one push doesn't do anything anymore. I've never changed the battery in the remote, but does the car care that the remote battery may be running low to exhibit this behavior? It's a 2010 SF with 52K miles.
Just noticed that when I lock the doors with the remote or when the doors auto lock when putting the car in gear, the right rear door does not lock. upon watching the process, it appears the the actual lock itself does not move all the way to the locked position. However, if you lock it twice in a row, it locks. it would appear that something is blocking it to close all the way, like say gum or some other type of sticky substance but I could not find any.
View 13 RepliesAt first we would use the remote and sometimes the lock would not lock the drivers side door but the rest of the car would. Normally if I tried a second time it would catch and lock.
Now I need to flip the lock switch myself when getting out of the car. I can unlock the car with the remote but there has been the odd time that it will not unlock via the remote and I've had to go around to the passenger side and reach over to unlock the drivers side door.
If I hold the lock and try to unlock or lock the car it is very weak compared to doing the same with all the others doors.
From looking around if sounds like it could be the actuator?
If this is the case how easy is this to replace on my own? I've been trying to see if there's a video anywhere but no luck finding one.
I have a 2007 SF SE that seems to be having multiple electrical problems. In summary, the following are happening irregularly:
1) rear passenger door will not lock with the power lock button
2) front driver door will not lock with the power lock button
3) A/C turns on by itself at random times
4) Power gas latch release will not work
As I said before, these problems happen randomly and all the things listed above will work on occasions. I have not taken any steps to troubleshoot other than looked at the relays in the engine bay which seemed to be fine.
I know that some other posts mentioned the lock actuators for the lock problems. However, I think there might be an electrical problem since all the problems seem to be related. The car is not under warranty anymore.
I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe, mileage is under 50000.
The remote Door lock, does not lock or unlock drivers door. But locks/unlocks all the other door.
I have just purchased a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and there is a problem with the steering. At slow speed, particularly in reverse when performing a full-lock turn, the power delivery is jerky and the vehicles jumps a bit.
It feels like either the AWD system is binding or the CV joints are operating beyond their limits. I have ready other posts that this is a known problem - the dealer I bought it from said the same, that it is known and seems to be accepted by Hyundai, there seems to be no recall on this and apparently this doesn't happen in post 20009 models when they face-lifted and supposedly changed the steering lock limits.
I'd like to understand more what is happening, see if there is a solution that I can implement, or alternatively if I have to just accept this, then it would be good to get reassurance that what I am feeling is not going to damage something further down the line.
Still getting p0174 error after upsteam downstream, checked everything.
View 1 RepliesA few years ago my auto transmission in my 3.5 L engine hyundai santa fe started shifting rough from 2nd to 3rd gear, i did a trans flush and changed the input output sensors, anyway last week it started again, so i just changed the input output sensors again, it did not fix the prob this time, do you think a flush would work.
View 4 RepliesMy 2007 ES350 had a problem with the TPMS where it would flash for the first minute and then stay solid. After checking all 5 tire pressures and resetting the system by using the button under the drivers side dash, I determined that it was probably a bad sensor. Seeing as how they are 7 years old, this seemed reasonable. (I also checked to make sure the passenger side button for the second set of tires was not pushed).
I just had new tires installed at Costco, and brought 5 new sensors for them to install. They supposedly did whatever sensor registration magic is required, but I am still having the same issue. The light blinks for the first minute then goes solid.
What is interesting is that when I try to reset using the button, the light flashes slower (about 1 per second) 3 times, then goes faster (about every half second or so) for the rest of the minute. Is this some code that the system is trying to display?
Also, is there any trick to getting this system re-initialized that I can pass on to the Costco techs when I take it back up there?