I have a 2000 4X4 1500. Twice now I have been driving on the highway around 60 and when I pass over a rough area, the wheels bounce all over the place. After the first time, I replaced the shocks. But it happened again. The tires are new, and are balanced a rotated every 5000 miles.
View 11 RepliesThe instrument cluster in my 2000 Silverado 1500 recently stopped working. All the gauges are flush to the left, except for the oil and battery which stay about in the middle. I ordered a different cluster online and went to install it today, finding that it still doesnt work. Except in this one everything aside from battery and oil are flush to the right. What to try next or am I going to need to take it in?
View 1 RepliesI have a 00 Suburban 1500 4wd and when I move the steering wheel the tires do not turn. I looked and a nut is missing from one of the pieces! Not sure what it is called!
View 2 RepliesMy jeep cherokee would begin to bounce crazily when I went over a bump in road. I wouldn't stop until I slowed down....
View 7 RepliesI have been "fighting" a front tire cupping problem on my L99 F350 Dually 2wd since I have owned it.
I got LOTS of paperwork with it, one of which was a service ticket from the dealer where it was bought new (with VERY low miles on it) saying several passing motorists had informed them that the front tires were bouncing down the road.
I have read this service complaint several times and I now feel that has something to do with it. I bought the truck with 70k on it some 8 years ago-the PO had installed EXPENSIVE Michelin XPS Rib steering tires on it and they were already destroyed by cupping.
I replaced all 4 shocks, and all 6 tires, begged the folks to FIND something wrong/loose/worn out on the front suspension/steering and they found nothing, they aligned it. THAT set of Cooper Discoverer HT tires did exactly the same thing, except I spent a lot of $$ having the tires rotated.
Now I have a set of Firestone TransForce tires on it and its been to a HD truck shop where I begged them to rip into the front end and FIND something wrong-THEY DIDN'T. THEY installed camber bolts and aligned it, yep, you guessed it STILL CUPPING!!
So, now I'm thinking is it possible that the wrong coil springs were installed at the factory causing this bouncing that the original owner reported to the dealer? I have now destroyed 2 more tires and getting tired of it.
I have an old base model 2001 Silverado, so manual everything. Here's my problem-- the air direction control knob (feet, defrost, face, etc.) is stuck on defrost. Literally stuck. Obviously, the knob attaches to and is supposed to turn a metal rod that then changes the direction of the air flow, but the rod will not turn at all...I even detached the knob and tried to turn it with a pliers! The climate control and fan speed knobs both work. What might be causing this?
View 6 RepliesIt's a no crank, no start issue. Battery is only a few months old and tests fine (800CCA,) starter is only 2 months old and we've pulled it out a couple times to have it tested and it's fine. Positive and negative battery cables are also fairly new (last spring.) I've tested pretty much every fuse and relay in the truck that had to do with the starter, etc. My brother has tested the resistance on most of the cables and wires (battery cables, alternator, starter, etc.) Anti-Theft has been tested as well.
Now, here's the odd part. When the key is turned, the starter clicks, but it doesn't turn the engine... at all. About the only thing I haven't tested is to see if the engine is locked up (which would really, really suck.) Now, this is an L76, 6.0L engine. It has D.O.D and variable valve timing, so the issues may be different than the 5.3 or 4.8.
I have a 92 chevy pick up 5.7 with 159,000 miles. The truck runs and starts great but shortly after I bought it 3 years ago it developed a sort of misfire at higher rpm's, it's fine if I drive it normally but if I try to pass someone it will downshift then fall on it's face, (spit,sputter and slow down). some times I can feather the accelerator and it will come back again. I normally don't drive the truck in the winter but this week I was forced to use it and the cold weather is seriously affecting it, it took forever to get it up to 70 mph after getting on the highway. once up to speed it will do 75 all day without an issue.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, pulled the throttle body and cleaned it as the port for the pcv valve was plugged solid with carbon. I have not replaced the cap and rotor as they seemed to look fine. I have not checked the fuel pressure because it will break the tires loose upon take off and I don't think that would be possible if the pressure was low, would it?
I have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
View 5 RepliesI have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.
Series of events:
2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.
December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.
Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.
March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.
Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.
I also use the parking brake every time I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.
I am trying to get some advice on a diagnosis for a transmission problem i'm experiencing with my vehicle? It's a manual transmission and the sound i am hearing is when i shift gears is a loud whirling grinding sound. It's really loud in 2nd 3rd and 5th and doesn't stop.
View 1 RepliesTwo days ago my '03 Silverado stopped recognizing when I pop the parking brake loose and now dings incessantly while I drive and the parking brake light on the dash flashes on and off.
I tried...
1.) Engaging and releasing the parking brake multiple times.
2.) Checked the brake fluid level (perfect level)
3.) Checked my owner's manual (not enough info in the manual)
I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
I have a 2000 f150 5.4 liter engine. I traveled about a month ago and while on the highway it started "bouncing/shuttering" really bad. I pulled off and while still in drive but completely stopped it was still bouncing but when in park it stopped. I took in into the Ford dealership and they said that cylinder 5 was misfiring and it was losing pressure fast. Then it stopped acting up completely and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Well about a week ago it started bouncing again on city roads (no highway). The check engine light came on and Orielys said it was a cylinder 5 misfire. Also, under the oil cap and in the tube where you would put the oil in has a yellow thick substance on it. I know that it is water in the oil. Also, there is a black "gunk" not far from where you would put the oil in. Could these problems be connected?
I was driving my truck and then started binging and I looked at dash and the air bag light lit up, what does this mean what would be wrong?
View 6 Repliesdrl headlights always burn instead of running lights when the truck is started. How can I correct it?
View 14 RepliesSo around September I changed my oil to mobile 1 extended performance full synthetic. Since then my check engine oil level light has came on twice, today being the second time. Both times it was at the add mark. The truck does not leak ANY oil, what might be going on?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Silverado z71 5.3l my problem is intermittent bogging/backfiring after startup. The truck starts fine every time but it is when you put it in gear and hit the gas it stumbles and backfires through the intake for the first minute or so. If I baby the throttle it will eventually clear up and run fine after about a mile. It does this cold most of the time but often does it warm also. Fuel pressure is good it has been tuned up I cant find any intake leaks. After it clears up it seems to run fine but it is really irritating when I go to pull out of a gas station in traffic and I have to pull over and wait 30 to 60 seconds of idle then it runs normal.
View 1 RepliesSo I have A 2000 Chevy and i keep getting a code saying i have a misfire on cylinder 8. i have replaced the spark plug, i have replaced the coil. this code is still showing up. what else could this be?
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