Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Blower Motor Vibration (heater On High)
Jan 30, 2012
Went to have an oil change....service rep came in with my cabin air filter and said it needed to be replaced, I told him "later" as they charge too much for a simple filter.
Two days later I had the need to run my blower on high and it vibrated rather loudly.. I tried different positions on the vent switch but nothing worked.. then it came to mind the Jiffy lube incident. I went in and pulled the cabin air filter out and saw nothing wrong there. Upon further inspection I found a piece of an acorn in the blower wheel.
Moral of this story...if you changes cabin air filter, be sure to check for any debris that may fall off the old filter into the blower wheel when it is removed.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 Limited with auto air. The fan blower doesn't operate. Cannot find the relay.
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I have a 2006 Sonata and just a few weeks ago the AC/Heater Blower would only work on full blast. You actually had to have the control set a little before the full setting to get it to come on. Both the heat and the AC worked. Now, nothing is coming out on any speed setting. I've replaced the blower resistor and checked the fuses/relay and they seem fine.
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I have a problem with my 09 Sonata. Blower motor does not work at all, on any setting. I thinks it's not getting any power. When I turn the blower on, on the dash, little red light does not come on on the switch. I think the switch itself that controls the speed and power to the blower is not getting any power.
I checked fuses that control the blower and they are fine (I looked up fuse location online).
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My wife has a 2006 Sonata and it ran great up until about a month ago, she started noticing when she hits the brakes and sometimes when she hits the gas the a/c blower motor would stop blowing for a second and all the lights would dim. So i drove the car for a day and she was right. the blower motor shuts off and the lights dim for roughly 1 second during breaking then it all works fine again.
What this could be? the car has no check engine light on or anything. I was hoping this is a common thing with a known fix.
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My A/C has been making a loud noise for a couple months now ,only when I put the A/C on the highest setting. I was LONG overdue for a cabin air filter change so I bought a new one and while I was down there I looked inside the blower motor and here's what I saw... It is now blowing fine and not making a noise . Sprayed some Ozium New Car spray on the new cabin air filter and my car is smelling great now !
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My wife has a 06 Sonata with the Manual AC controls. The blower motor works intermittently. Sometimes it works, other times it does not. It does not matter which setting the HVAC is in. Yesterday while driving it, we went over a bump in the road and the motor started running again. Since the motor runs, I want to discount the fuse and relay.
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When I accelerate A/C is fine but when I go to brake (RPMs go down and car downshifts) my A/C blower power goes from high to low and then fixes itself and if I brake again same thing but it does it intermittently. What it could be?
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How hard is it to change the A/C/Heater blower motor. I know about the switch problems but this is the blower motor. I'll probably clean it out and spray something in it before I replace it but I just wondered how hard it is to get to. On another note, this 4 wheel drive Santa Fe rocks in the snow! I can't believe what good traction it has!
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I got a new resistor since my last one was in a puddle of water and installed that today and still have no heater blower motor. I checked all the fuses and have power. I sent power to the blower itself and it spins good. So somewhere between the fuse and the blower it isn't working. I need to take the controls out and test for power there. Didn't have time to do that today. What wires to check or where to start trouble shooting?
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I have a 2005 BMW X5 and the heater motor makes a shrill noise only when I am turning right.
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Recently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
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99 Explorer Blower motor quit working. Disconnected and hot wired to a battery and blower motor worked. So I know it is in the switch and/or wiring. I need this truck everyday so going into the shop is out. Live in Northern Mn and the temp was -15 degrees. So as a temp fix what does everybody think of running a wire from the battery to a switch inside and then to the blower motor and then to a ground. Would have a inline fuse. If this will work what gauge wire and what amp fuse would you use. Its getting cold without heat.
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I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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I am new to the world of the Cadillac. I bought a nice 1994 Deville for $500 at auction. I replaced the water pump and put two new tires on the front. It is my daily driver I use for work, I put about 96 miles a day on it. The gas mileage is actually really good due to 90% of my drive is on the highway.
The only issue I am currently having is that the Heater/AC blower motor keeps running until I pull the plug under the hood. I started looking up solutions only to find that there really seems to be very little in the way of getting good information.
I have one side saying it's the blower motor itself
another saying it's the BMC
another saying it's the heater/ac programer
and still another saying there is no cure just pull the fuse
When I checked here I found one person with the same problem back in 2011, but there was no resolution.
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2001 f350 blower motor for (A/C - Heater) works sometimes and sometimes does not.
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Purchased 2011 Prius 2 with 108500 miles on 4/29/2015. Didn't fully check all climate control settings and fan speeds. Two days later, car had vibration and rumbling sound which was increasingly severe on three highest climate control fan speeds in all modes (e.g. AC, heat, auto, manual, etc.). Sounded like a quiet lawnmower on highest fan speed. Was quiet on three lowest fan speeds. Glove box and passenger side dash vibrated in sync with noise.
Cabin air filter had been replaced by a large Toyota Dealer as part of pre-sale prep. I suspected filter was not installed properly. Removed glove box and filter, which had been properly installed. Vibration/noise were same when fan was operated without filter or glove box installed.
Felt around inside of fan housing. There was debris, including seven pieces of acorn shell (see image below). The concave sections of the shells were firmly wedged in the fins of the squirrel cage (no pun intended!) impeller. Cleaned out all nuts and debris, reassembled, fan operated quietly without vibration at all fan speeds.
The shells essentially unbalanced the impeller and induced vibration at high fan speeds, just like an unbalanced wheel would induce shimmy or vibration at freeway speeds. What is baffling is how the debris and acorn shells this large got past the filter. Filter fit on the right side is pretty good since a plastic flange goes between the pleats. The left side appears to have a looser fit with some gaps.
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I have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
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Well my blower motor only blows on high which IMO points to the resistor, went and bought one and still only blows on high. Tried to test the plug that goes to the resistor but couldn't get anything, shouldn't there be 12v going to the plug and then step down to the resistor until high is selected then 12v bypasses the resistor all together? Blows strong and cold, too cold actually since we cant turn the blower down so we have to turn it off for a few minutes.
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I have a 2007 Sonata, 2.4L 4cyl. and it is making some weird noise as of late. I have done some research and from what I have read it seems like it may be a bad engine mount. One thing to note is that the noise really only happens when the car is cold and hasn't warmed up yet or on a cold day.
Basically the best description is that the noise is a high-pitched rattle/vibration noise. The noise seems to match the vibrations of the engine but doesn't seem to get more intense if I rev the engine. The noise does get quieter if I put it in neutral but it is still there. The noise also happens even if the car is parked and off, and I do something like shut the door or trunk. I haven't gotten a chance to get in there and look under the hood myself to try...
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