This noise started this week. Grinding when I take my foot off the brake when in park and parking brake set. What is causing it?
A guy at work said brakes. The front brake pads were replaced last year. Original rear.
Just over 90,000 miles.
I have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.
Series of events:
2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.
December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.
Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.
March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.
Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.
I also use the parking brake every time I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.
In the last couple of months I have noticed my '10 Prius III begins to roll forward or backwards about a foot depending upon which drive mode I select without releasing the brake. So here's the normal scenario I get in the car have my foot on the brake, turn it on wait for the ready beep/light, my foot has never left the brake or lessened pressure but not so much as to trigger the hill assist, I shift into D to go forward but say a car is coming and I don't want to go yet my car moves about a foot forward and I feel the brake pump up and then resist my foot. The same thing happens if I put it in R she rolls back a foot and stops. I don't recall noticing it before the great ECU update but I also can't say it didn't happen before the update was accomplished.
View 4 RepliesI have an 06 Touareg V8 with AWD, auto tranny. No leveling suspension. And when I drive it specially while my foot is on the gas at cruising speeds there's a grinding noise coming from under the car. When I step off the gas it is gone or when I am accelerating hard I can't hear it. What could it be? It's driving me and my ocd insane!! I think it is drivetrain related (differential, wheel bearing, etc.) but not the transmission as I can still hear it while coasting in neutral.
View 3 RepliesMy 2009 Sonata, 2. 4 L engine, base model with automatic transmission started up and ran OK, but 20 minutes later when I parked the car and shifted towards Park the gears grinded in neutral, stopped grinding in Reverse, and then grinded again when I made it to Park, and I quickly turned off the engine.
When I restarted, it grinded in Park, OK past Reverse, Grinded in Neutral, and then OK in Drive. How serious this is, or if there is anything I can check out on my own?
As stated in the title, I've been experiencing a creaking/groaning noise originating from the dead pedal/foot-rest area when I release the clutch as I'm accelerating from first gear. This happens more so when I'm accelerating from a stop on any sort of incline (irrespective of the grade) and primarily in the afternoon/early evening when the weather's at its warmest for the day.
The noise itself originated about a month ago. Although I describe it as a creaking/groaning it sometimes sounds like a slight metal on metal friction noise.
My car's stock with the exception of Driver Gear springs and a BSH 27mm sway bar in the rear. Wheels are OEM 16s. I've had the DG springs on my car for about 3 months before this noise began and mileage was around 9,900Km.
I have a 2015 Sonata 2.0t limited with 12k miles. Just few weeks back I started hearing a noise when I would step on the accelerator after a full stop, when the auto hold feature was turned on.
With the auto hold feature off and my foot on the brake, I don't hear that sound when I release the brake. It only happens when the car is stopped and the auto hold is on and i step on the accelerator.
I took it to the dealer and he is saying the brake calipers need to be cleaned up. I'm not convinced it's the brake because I don't hear the sounds when I don't use the auto hold. What can I do to fix this?
Have been getting stuck and not releasing when brake is applied? I know there is a rod that connects and releases this for brakes or something but can it be replaced easy or just bypassed which I would prefer ?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
I changed my tires, brakes and rotors last August. I had installed EBC YellowStuff. I also greased(using SilGlyde) the slide pins and bled the brakes.
Last weekend, my car was making a weird noise when I hit the brake, so I removed the front tires and noticed that the front passenger side outer brake pad was completely gone and the inner brake pad still had 25% life left, but it was tapered(image attached).
I know when this happens, usually it means that the slide pins need to be greased, but they were plenty greased from my last year's brake change. I still greased them, but now I hear grinding noise frequently(not all the time) when I am accelerating at slow speed and sometimes at even high speeds.
There is no fluid leaking and I could only see surface rust on the pistons. Its driving me crazy, because I can't figure out what it is. I am thinking of just replacing the slide pins anyway to be on the safe side.
I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Nissan Rogue that is experiencing a shifter problem. The problem is that periodically the shifter will not go from the "park" position to the "drive" position after the car is started and your foot is on the brake. I have been able to drive the car by inserting a small screwdriver into the slot on the gear shift assembly to depress the switch that allows you to override the mechanism but as you can imagine that is tedious and what do you do if suddenly the screwdriver is lost - you go nowhere and you can't even get to store to buy another one because the car won't move!
I have had the car into the dealer twice now and they have been unable to correctly diagnose the shifter problem. They have said that it could be a failed solenoid that senses the brake pedal being depressed but so far that has checked out fine. They also thought that it may be a brake sensor and they asked me to keep an eye on the brake lights to see if they come on when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights do come on so they believe that is not an issue. They "repositioned" the shift assembly in the car center console thinking that it may be an improper position and they tightened it down into place but that has not corrected the problem either. They now tell me that the entire shift assembly needs to be replaced at a cost of $670.00 and I find that hard to believe let alone pay for!
The car has about 70,000 mile on it and it was recently in an accident that did deploy some side airbags and I am wondering too if the accident may have damaged the assembly in some way that caused the malfunction where the repairs may be covered by my insurance company. This has only started after the accident repairs were made and we never had a problem like this prior to that event.
So I always have the radio on so I rarely hear subtle noise like this, but lately I have tried to track down this noise I have been hearing.
Every time I back out of my garage, I would obviously have it from Park to Reverse...when I put it in D from R....there is clunking noise right after the first gear...
It goes first gear, than this clanking noise then 2nd gear....It almost sounds like a motor mount? I hope its something not too bad as a mount.
It only happens when engine is cold and it seems to only happen that one time I go from 1 to 2 right after R..
It's sound like a grinding metal but real quick...like something crushing.
I have done ATF flush at 30, 60, and 90; the 90k was done just about two months ago.
My car engine is G4KD 2.0 L 2009, no shift interlocking mechanism installed (I don't have the small button near the gear box to release it) also I am able to shift from P to anything else while the car not turned on, and I can shift without the brake.
2 weeks ago, I started to hear click noise (I am not sure if it was there before, maybe it got louder) when I switch from P to R, and from N to D, my car is on 80000 Km and didn't replace the gear box oil (dealer said oil is fine).
Car run smoothly but I am curious why I have this click.
Just put on eibachs and car is randomly making a grinding noise when slowly accelerating or braking.. Also noticing a fairly loud clicking noise when going in reverse. The noise isn't consistent and seems to happen more right after startup. I haven't gotten the alignment done yet and was wondering if this could be the problem. Will try and post a video soon.
View 8 RepliesI just bought a 2006 Sonata LX V6 a few days ago and in almost every way it seems like a great car. My '08 GLS V6 which gave me 150k great miles got totaled in November, which really sucks, but I wanted to find another '06-'08 V6. I noticed when I started it for the test drive that the car made a bit of a grinding noise on start up. I didn't think much of it and figured that the warranty from the dealership would cover any problems.(I probably should've checked earlier, but the dealership's warranty only covers cam and lifter noise and engine failure) After I looked into the issue more, I found out that it is a fairly common problem on the early 3.3's with the timing chain tensioners. I'm pretty concerned based on just the nature of the repairs and the cost I've seen for them.
I'm the third owner so the 5 year/60k warranty is expired, but I know there is a TSB out for the issue. I can't find the TSB anywhere but I've heard to have it repaired the car has to make the noise on start, sit 10 minutes, and make the noise again. If it does, the oil needs to be changed and the test repeated again. Since I'm running Hyundai 5W-20 and an OEM filter already, I tried the test on my own. It made the noise on start, sat 10 minutes, and made it again. It is only for a couple seconds, but it's still concerning to me. I guess what I'm trying to ask is if what I've described is covered under the TSB. I really don't wanna have to worry about something like that right now, so my next question is whether the issue I have is detrimental to the motor. My worst fear would be to have the chain jump a cog on the cam gear and slam valves into pistons.
Need to determine the noise before I took the vehicle in to be serviced. I don't know if I would necessarily describe this as grinding...to me it doesn't sound like metal on metal..but it's not normal.
Only happens on a cold startup, and even then it hasn't been 100% of the time...probably 80% of the time though.
2007 Hyundai Sonata - Startup Noise - YouTube
I found this thread, Grinding Sound On Statup but not sure it's the same issue. This just started. Vehicle has 150K miles on it.
Have a '06 V6 GLS w/ approx 105K miles. About a week ago I started hearing a noise. The noise sounds a lot like a brake pad wear indicator, metal grinding on metal. However, the noise does not seem to be related to use of the brakes. The noise only occurs when the car is moving. It is intermittent. Comes from the front of the car. Seems to usually occur when making a sweeping or gentle right turn. Speed does not seem to matter - can be going 20 to 60 mph. Noise will last from less than a second to as much as 5 to 10 seconds and then goes away.
I have taken a cursory look at the crankshaft damper pulley and it appears to be ok...
My wife and I went out to dinner tonight and were about 2 miles from home and stopped at a stoplight. I had my foot on the brake, and the motor just cut off. Was playing music through the system from my cell phone. Sound did not cut off. I immediately hit the start button and nothing happened, then the second time I hit the start button, it started and everything seemed ok. I don't know of anything I could have done to cause the engine to cut off.
View 7 RepliesStarted a few months ago didn't really bother me until now. Started when I would forget the parking brake is on and would just put the car in reverse & wouldn't move until I released the parking brake. Did it about 5-7 times and now every time I brake without the parking brake on, it squeaks & is really annoying. Is there any way to fix this or is it just gonna be complicated & expensive?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai sonata, 2.4, 5 speed manual, gls, when I press down on clutch whether from a stop or when shifting, I get a loud grinding noise and the radio goes dead at same time!, I know it is the starter attempting to "engage", at least that's what I believe it to be, it also "'starts "from, the "on " position when I press on clutch.
View 8 Replies