Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Hard Downshift When Engine Was Cold And Under 30 Mph
Dec 27, 2011
My car also had the hard downshift when engine was cold and under 30mph. I seen where Sbr 711 had posted the TSB 10-AT-007-1
I printed this and took to the local dealer & also showed where it was mentioned as a recall.. The advisor looked up on his computer and showed no recalls for the 09 sonata?
I went ahead and scheduled the reprogram update and was told the technician can pull up more info on recalls than the advisor can? Any way they did the reprogram today and $89. later still no recall? How do I prove that in fact this is a recall & get refunded?
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My 2010, 4 cyl. auto started giving me hard downshifts awhile ago, when cold. Mainly going from 4 to 3, and 3 to 2. I had the tranny fluid changed a few months ago at 56,000 miles, but no difference. So, that left me with the dealer and this is their diagnosis:
Updated ECM and TCM and hard shift still present. Vehicle will require new PCM (TCM?) to resolve problem.
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I have 2010 Sonata with 4 cylinder engine and 50,000 miles. For a while now, my car has a real hard downshift at around 20mph. When i put the car in shiftronics mode and do not downshift manually, at the 20mph hard downshift the car is shifting from 4th to 3rd. A while back i had the TSB for hard downshift and also did a tranny fluid flush. Neither has seemed to solve the problem.
Also, the car has a annoying electrical hum/whine that is coming from the engine bay. When i shift car into neutral the hum/whine goes away. Also sometimes when shifting into lower gears the hum/whine will go away for a short period of time.
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My 09' has developed the abrupt downshift issue at 20 mph when cold. Once the transmission is warmed up, the problem goes away. There is a Service Bulletin on this problem so it is known and a fix is in place. The fix according to the Service Instruction is to remap the transmission software.
How this remap affected their vehicle. My car has been returning great gas mileage, and I am concerned that this fix could hurt that. If mileage is adversely affected, I'd rather live with the downshift IF it won't hurt anything.
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I just bought a 2009 Hyunda Sonata, 4 cylinder limited edition with 82k miles on it about a month ago. It was maintained to the suggested maintenance schedule by Hyundai dealers prior to me owning it.
after about 2 weeks, it started having issues when slowing down. I narrowed it down to being a harsh downshift from 4th to 3rd when breaking when cold. After driving for 10 minutes it doesn't do it anymore.
My temporary fix is to manually downshift it into 3rd when I have to slow down. It seems to be that it stays in 4th too long and shifts late into 3rd, but I wouldn't think downshifting late would really matter.
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Basically when I have it cranked on high (level 4) it feels like its blowing on level 2. some times when I start the car it doesn't even turn on. I have to tap or hit under the glove box for it to start. Is it wiring or could it be AC Blower fan or something else.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana minivan. I get a hard downshift from 2nd to 1st only when the engine is cold - especially noticeable in cold weather. After a mile or so of driving (or a few minutes of idling) is shifts fine. All upshifts are fine all the time. The tranny fluid level is fine and is in good condition. What it could be?
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My 09 Sonata GLS has 50k miles on it. I bought it as a demo model with 9k on it (regret that) as new ... who knows how it was treated.
at 40k miles I noticed that in the morning when I was braking the car would feel like it was slipping out of gear momentarily and it was pretty rough. After a few minutes it would stop and I could continue on my way. The car is an automatic. I noticed it if I let the car decelerate enough that it dropped into first on its own, or if I used the brakes. I figured it must be due to the cold weather or something and was hoping it would clear up. This was only happening after 8 hours of non-use, overnight in the cold.
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My 2009 Sonata (4 Cyl.) has begun to downshift very rough while coming to a stop from about 20 mph. At first I thought it was the brakes, but now I'm convinced it's the transmission. Essentially it "jerks" a couple of times before stopping. It started happening at 30,000+ and only happens when transmission is still cold. Once I've driven for a bit it doesn't happen.
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My Hyundai is giving me a major headache. I bought a 2009 sonata used a few months back. Not long after I got it, I was having issues with it jerking around 20 mph. Sometimes, it would have a few issues with it jerking some when I was taking off. This was only right after the car was started. I took it to a local Aamco. The guy told me that it was a 2-1 downshift pump. He "relearned" the transmission and the problem went away. Now, it is back. At the time, he did some research and thought it may stem from a calibration update they had issued. He didn't have the Hyundai software to try that fix.
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For longer than I'd like to reveal, my Forester has shifted extremely hard. This happens only when the engine is cold and disappears entirely once it heats up. Also, the RPMs go high just before the shift. When it does shift, it feels as if the engine is going to self-destruct from the sound and rough feeling --as if the entire engine or at least some part of it were going to fall to the ground. After it shifts, it feels as if the car shoots forward like a rocket. The Subaru dealer changed the transmission fluid and reset the computer. The problem persists.
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Ok, got a hesitation when the engine is cold, almost feels like a miss. Dealer could not find anything and there are no engine codes. They wanted to replace the plugs with new platinum plugs. I said did you pull any plugs, not that is what the tech said it could be. Could it be the Mass air flow sensor? Or a coil. After a mile or 2 it is fine. I switched to shell premium since dealer told me I had to get a decarbonization from using cheap gas. I used exxon regular and BP regular with a treat of premium every few tanks. But now I am on shell and they said I needed another decarbonization, This is getting rather expensive, I may go back to my local mechanic once the warranty is out. But the hesitation puzzles me.
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Last Thrusday, my wife couldn't start my Sonata 2010 with 30,350 miles on it. It just clicked and sounded like a dead battery. She had to get a jump start through Hyundai road side service.
I change the battery yesterday (it only had 225 cranking amps) and immediately strange things started happening: lights flickering, engine surging, hard starting, not starting just clicking, gauge lights blink strangely at startup and when switching off ignition, not remembering odometer settings (I set my odo for MPG).
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I have a 2006 sonata with a 2.4 . It has 120,000 miles on it right now. Around 100k miles , when the engine is under load(hard accelerations), the top end of the engine starts clacking,like the rockers arms are loose. It also does it when in park and you rev it up above 3000 rpm then let off the gas. I have not had time to pull the valve cover yet.
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I have a 2009 2.4/auto with 32000...original owner...just noticed a weird tranny issue develop over this past cold week in NY...when coming to a slow stop the trans will harsh shift as it down shifts from 2 to 1...
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata 2.4l with ~235,000kms (~147,000 miles). It has been well maintained and has been a great car. It has been developing an engine tick noise at cold startup and it seems to be very gradually getting worse over time. This noise is most evident immediately after strarup and gradually dimishes over a period of about a minute and varies in terms of how noisy it is and how long it lasts. This nopise is never heard when the engine is warm. From what I have read online, this can be caused mainly by two things:
- use of an aftermarket oil filter
- timing chain tension insufficient
Late last week I changed the oil filter out from the Purolator Classic filter that I have been using for years to a genuine Hyundai oil filter. This did not make any noticeable change in the tick noise so I do not believe that this was a contributing factor.
Over the weekend I removed the valve cover and checked the timing chain tension. It was taught as it should be. I could push it down a bit between the camshafts but it would spring right back up. I also used a videoscope to look down inside the cam tunnel and found no evidence of the timing chain contacting any metal or the oil drip line for the lower timing chain sprocket. Everything appeared to be in order.
When I started the engine to confirm no leaks around the valve cover, I used a mechanic's stethoscope to check for the noise. I was unable to isolate it as the engine tick did not occur at that time. The cause of the tick noise continues to elude me, but I have ruled out the two common causes (oil filter and timing chain tension).
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Well, After reading about the weird transmission issues these cars have...mine finally started to do it. It will clunk, shake the car when it shifts and downshift for no apparent reason. All of this does NOT happen all the time. The noises that come from my transmission do though.
I can have the car in Drive and have my foot on the brake and I can hear a grinding/low power steering fluid like sound that comes and goes. Its worse when I shift from Park to Reverse though. It sounds like air being released followed by a bunch of faint grinding noises.
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I started having an issue when the weather changed here on the East this weekend. When I start my car in the morning the engine knocks for about 30 seconds and then stops. I also recently got an oil change at some local mechanic shop and wondered if that might be the issue. I checked the oil and it was stellar this morning but I'm not sure what kind they put in there. I would assume it's the required type.
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Has the engine cover on, hear rattling when they first start up their car? It only last about three seconds, and its only from a cold start normally.
I was told not to worry about the sound because its just the engine cover rattling a bit, but it is rather annoying. It makes quite a racket. Should I just take the cover off?
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Recently, our 2009 Sonata jumps to relatively high and not normal RPM when start cold (and I don't mean winter-cold; I mean first start in the morning). It jumps to around 2500 rpm for 3-4 seconds before it goes down to the normal 1200-1300 or so for a cold start.
Also, not sure if this is the normal Sonata engine sound, but when we push the accelerator it sounds like the engine is knocking, almost like a whistle of fuel flowing.
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4l Sonata has been making a loud knocking noise when it is cold, but it will fade to almost nothing after it warms up. I tried to make a sound clip of the noise, but it was so distorted that I could not even make out the noise on the video.
For some strange reason the noise matches the skipping problem I have been complaining about since the beginning. Yea it's still there. It sounds like it is in the valve system, not the lower end. It leads me to believe it's coming from the valve clearance/ camshaft area.
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