Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Horrible Noise As If No Engine Oil And Eventually Just Stopped
Mar 19, 2016
My 2007 hyundai sonota with the 3.3 starting making a horrible noise as if no engine oil and eventually just stopped. ( My son was driving it). The engine oil light did come on! I checked engine oil level, it was fine. I also checked oil filter and it looked good.
You could restart the car and drive it and it would run for 15 -20 minutes before the engine oil light comes on then 5 minutes later it dies. Let it sit and the same thing happens. So I pulled codes and got P-0011 (code of many causes)
I pulled the OCV (CVVT actuator) in the cylinder nearest the radiator (bank 1? not sure which bank this is). Actually it was the only one I could find. It was not easy and it is in a cramped spot almost directly under the intake manifold.
Never the less It tested at 7.8 ohms and it moved when I applied 12 volts. According to Haynes, this number is good and the action when voltage applied is in the correct range.
I am stuck now. Haynes manual implies there is only 1 OCV (CVVT actuator) for this year model, but gets confusing? Is there another OCV I can check, on the other bank near the firewall (bank 2).
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I have the 4-cylinder "I4", 2.4 L engine in my 2006 Sonata.
Yesterday, it started sounding like this: [URL] ....
Actually, yesterday it didn't sound as bad. Today I sprayed some BELT DRESSING on it, and NOW it sounds like this!
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I have a 2006 Jetta with 90,000 miles. There is a low level noise which my mechanic seems to think it is in the engine or transmission. From the drivers seat it seems to be on the passenger side of the car. The noise is there when the car is stopped or moving. It seems more pronounced when you you give the engine gas. I hear it at 1000 RPMs and above, although the mechanic can here it on the rack. The sound is a pulsating un un un. If you have ever heard a fountain pump when the water is to low to pump, it is a similar sound. The engine and the transmission seem to work normal. could this be a bad oil filter. The filter is not a VW.
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I own a 2000 Lincoln Continental and the other day it started making a horrible grinding/rubbing noise as soon as the engine started. I took it to my mechanic (been going to him for 6 years) and he said it was the Air Conditioner Compressor (specifically the clutch) was causing the noise and needed to be replaced.
If I remember correctly (I do not have any kind of documentation in front of me), the AC unit is at the bottom of the engine... Which could cause some issues. My question is, how easy/difficult is this to fix myself?
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This monday i found this horrible noise coming from the engine... My first thought was a pulley bearing, yet none of them at the front appeared to be the cause, and standing in front of the bay it sounded like it came from the engine itself (which would be really bad news). Well, i parked the truck until today and i went to check if i could find the cause. I used a mech's stethoscope at the engine and found nothing strange, turned the engine off and touched the pulleys to feel if any was getting hotter than the others... no dice...
Then took the belt off and tried every pulley by hand, all worked ok, yet when i turned the Alternator's it flashed a little spark every now and then (that was just a hint, i wasn't sure). To finally rule out the engine, i turned it on without the belt (that would leave all the pulleys out of the equation). It worked fine and made no strange noises. I cleaned several pulleys and placed the belt back, and turned the engine on once again, this time keeping my attention at the alternator, enough said, it made several spark noises and suddenly, i saw a cap flying of its back. It turned out to be the bearing at the back of the alternator, it was destroyed and losing shrapnel all over, take a look:
Now, need to know what is the part number of the measures of this bearing. (I'll take what's left of the bearing to the store, but i like to be sure of what I'm looking for).
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I have a 99 Blazer 4x4 with ABS. Brake pedal just went to the floor and car stopped eventually ... a bit scary. I've checked all the brake lines and the inside of all wheels and there is no sign of fluid anywhere. All pistons seem to be where they need to be with backing plates nicely visible.
I pumped the brakes quite a few times and same result ... but I'm not pumping fluid on the ground. As expected I've also checked the reservoir and its full. Didn't see any leaks so its full. I'm guessing that the master cylinder has given up the ghost ... truck has 470,000km so things wear out.
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I have a 2004 that I purchased in Jan '05 with just over 10K miles on it, after taking out a large deer with my previous Prius (90k miles on that one). I'm now at 271k and my first non-maintenance repair issue has occurred. My A/C was working fine one day, then nothing the next. Hot air, and nothing else. Had my regular service place (not dealer) check it during my regular oil change. Found the refrigerant was out, and did a little digging. They suspected a bad compressor, and referred me to the dealer. Upon recommendation from a friend, had another non-dealer check it the next day ( Wow, no Freon, and we can't locate the leak!). So I bit the bullet and took it to the dealer.
Not sure I want to put that much into fixing the a/c in a car this old/this many miles. I'm pretty handy with fixing things, but not this. And not a lot of non-dealer options in my area who will work on hybrids.
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Few days ago I noticed the noise coming from the engine.
Went to dealership. They removed the oil pan and found metal shavings there .The car has 90,000 miles. They will put a new short block (will be covered by warranty ).
Since they basicaly will disassemble the whole engine, I thought to ask them to replace also drive belts, timing chain tensioner, not sure if the short block comes with the water pump , will ask them . W
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I notice it now for awhile this whining noise coming from the engine. It sounds like bearing noise to me. The car is still under warranty till 12 Oct 13. So if needs a fix, it have to happen soon.
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I notice a high pitch squeal when I turn off the car ignition and is synced with the slowing of the engine cooling fan. I don't notice any significant engine noise while the car is fully running in idle. Does this indicate that bearings are going bad in the electric engine fan assembly? If so, would the noise alone be justification for getting a warranty replacement by the dealer or would they need a total fan failure in order to get it replaced under warranty at no cost. If not, think its worthwhile to replace the fan module myself to avoid imminent failure?
2009 Sonata GLS (NF) 50k Mileage
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Yesterday I noticed a slight clacking noise coming from the engine, but it was only when I was just barely on the gas. It wasn't there at idle. Now today after an hour drive, it is loud, and at all rpm's. What could it be?
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I did a search and what I saw all had to do with noise at startup.Mine is during cruising. I have a 2007 Sonata 4 cylinder with 112K miles. Within the last few months it began making a slight chattering noise when I accelerate and when cruising. It's worst around 55mph. When I let off, it almost goes away, but is loudest when I just am feathering the pedal to maintain speed.
If I put the pedal down a little more and accelerate, it is not loud, but still faintly there. At first I thought it was a tapping sound, but I've let some of my friends listen and its more like a clattering, metal rattling, or vibration perhaps. Its hard to describe. A week ago I had the check engine light come on with a "P0011 Hyundai - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1".
I changed the oil and took it into a local shop and they cleared the code/light and checked things out (the light hasn't reappeared). I had them take off the valve cover and make sure the top end was not making the noise. It seemed fine to them. They suggested I take it to the dealer for further diagnosis. I have not yet. It does not make noise during start up. If I have time I will upload a audio recording later. What may be making the noise? It seemed to get a little louder after the latest oil change, but that's probably me being more sensitive to the problem.
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Ok, so I am not sure if i am having an AC issue or audio grounding issue...or both.
So here is the deal. I Have an aftermarket stereo. When I first got it, I Had to play around with the grounding points in order to eliminate engine whine noise. I got it perfect then lately it has become really really bad.
So I did some process of elimination and found this.
When I have the radio turned off, then whine is almost completely gone.
I just noticed that when I Have the AC on and radio on, the noise is there. In fact the AC is what makes the engine whine noise.
When I turn AC off, have radio on, no whine noise is coming through.
Now the kicker....I turned off the radio and accelerated while in park with AC on and radio off. I can hear a really loud {belt-like} noise coming from the engine. It occurs right at 2,500-3,000 RPM.
It definitely doesn't sound normal. When I drive normally I must have not noticed this noise because of the radio or it's too faint to hear to hear when outside of the garage.
Could it be some sort of tensioner on the AC belt tensioner? Not sure how this relates to my radio, but they go hand in hand and I would like to fix it.
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I have a 2006 Sonata GL, 2.4L, manual transmission, with about 130K miles. It has recently developed a knocking noise. The noise sounds metallic.
Some data: timing chain, guides, tensioner are all new, the noise is not coming from there.
Compression tests on the 4 cylinders came back with 200, 200, 180, and 200 psi readings. Tests were performed 3 different times, same gauge, all numbers came back the same.
The noise comes on only under acceleration (gas is supplied), and even then it's not consistent. For example, accelerating at 2500 rpm will make the noise, but the noise will go away at, say, 3000 rpm, while accelerating. Then again, the same thing can happen at 3200 rpm: accelerating will cause the noise, but up to a point, beyond which the noise goes away.The noise is not present at idle. I can always make the noise heard, just not consistently at the same rpm range.
I ran the engine with one spark plug disconnected at a time: the noise goes away when the #3 cylinder spark is disconnected.
Opinions vary: wrist pin, piston slap, rod bearing, etc.
Any tests I could run to narrow the problem? It has been difficult to pinpoint where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope...
Oil changes have been very regular (3.5K), using Mobil 1. Nevertheless, it has been burning oil.
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2006 Sonata 2.4. A couple weeks back I posted about how my engine is making a slight ticking noise. It makes the noise consistently. I recorded a video of the noise. What it could be. Here's the video: [URL] ....
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I have a 2006 hyundai sonata 3.3L V6. Only happens on a cold start. I'll start the car and it won't tick while at idle. But as I drive away ill hear it for maybe about 2 mins only maybe in first gear until the car slightly warms up and then it's gone completely.
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I have a '07 Sonata GLS with the 2.4-liter Theta engine and the 4-speed automatic. It has 52k miles on it and has always been serviced regularly. It's been a pretty decent car but is starting to feel a little tired, most notably the worn/bouncy suspension.
Anyway, the other day I was driving down the highway and gave it a little gas to pass a slower car. Doing 60 MPH it downshifted to 3rd (~2000 to ~3300 RPM) and I thought I heard a noise in the engine bay, but I wasn't sure. I ended up needing more power so put it to the floor and as it kicked down to 2nd at ~5000 RPM the rattly noise got a lot more pronounced. Driving around normally I don't hear it but any time I put it to the floor (merging/passing) I will hear the rattle. I can also hear it if I lock it in 2nd gear and give it full throttle up a hill at low speed, like you might do with a stick shift.
It seems like it only does it under load because if I rev it to ~4000 RPM in park in the driveway, there's no noise, even at full throttle. I know the V6s had tensioner issues but I haven't heard much about the 2.4s. I'm not super concerned as it is still under warranty but what might be wrong with it as this is my first Hyundai vehicle, especially in case the dealer can't replicate it.
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Rattling noise in the belt area of the engine...
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My 2.4L engine is making a clanking noise while running. When I checked the oil level today, it was low by about 1.5 quarts. There's no check engine light.
Car has 74K miles now. I purchased the car two years ago with 35K miles. I have always performed regular maintenance myself. The car had its oil control valve replaced at 55K miles.
VIDEO : 2.4L Clanking Noise
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4l Sonata has been making a loud knocking noise when it is cold, but it will fade to almost nothing after it warms up. I tried to make a sound clip of the noise, but it was so distorted that I could not even make out the noise on the video.
For some strange reason the noise matches the skipping problem I have been complaining about since the beginning. Yea it's still there. It sounds like it is in the valve system, not the lower end. It leads me to believe it's coming from the valve clearance/ camshaft area.
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Recently my engine started making a rattling noise. It does not matter if the engine is warm or cold. In either condition it produces the same noise. The noise can be best heard at the back of the engine. My car is a Sonata 2.4 GLS from 2006 and has roughly 110000km on the odometer.
Hyundai Sonata Engine noise - YouTube
Tomorrow I'm dropping the car off to the dealer in hopes that they can find it.
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