Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Small Leak From Upper Radiator Hose
Jan 7, 2008
I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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I had my LS at the dealer this morning getting the fuel regulator recall and they noticed that my radiator had a very small leak at the nipple where the overflow hose is connected. From what I've read, this is a very common issue that I probably caused by leaning on the fitting at some point while working on the car.
I'm no stranger to DIY and am willing to take this on. I'm looking at replacements online and I see two brass fittings at the bottom. Are those for transmission cooler lines? If so, wouldn't replacing the radiator cause the loss of some transmission fluid?
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So i cant figure out how to remove the radiator side of the upper radiator hose. I pulled out the pin but i cant remove the hose.
Do I just pull it straight out? Or do I twist and pull? I dont want to break the connection.
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1991 Toyota Celica 2.2 liter standard water is boiling in upper radiator hose what could be the possible cause of this problem I have changed radiator and cap, water pump, radiator hoses and have flushed the system. could crossed hoses from engine to heater control valve and heater core cause this problem?The head has been checked and no exhaust gas was found in radiator fluid ...
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After chasing the smell of coolant for a couple weeks, discovered that the upper radiator hose was leaking at the engine. Based on my schedule and drive schedule, and unfamiliar location this last week, I took my truck to the last people I wanted to - the Ford dealer, where they attempted to charge for the hose replacement. During this time I discovered the nature of how these hoses work and asked the tech why they don't just replace the O-rings ... "Ford Motor Company wants to sell you a new hose with labor" - a direct quote from the Ford tech. And that is why Ford is the LAST place I want to go for repairs I cannot perform. I kept the old hose - any spot where you can get the O-rings alone?
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Noticed this past month on colder days my upper hose is collapsed, typically a symptom of a bad radiator pressure cap.
This hose is connected from the water pump to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the Degas bottle which has a nonstandard radiator cap.
Do these plastic caps vent the same way a typical cap does?
Cap for 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty|9C3Z-8101-B
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This weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
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1992 3.0L V-6 RANGER
New thermostat
New Water Pump
I noticed the other day that the Upper radiator hose gets Sucked Flat when RPM is higher than Idle BAD it completely collapses IDK how it can circulate the coolant very well in this Condition. If the hoses have ever been changed But the Upper hose Really gets sucked flat. I've seen this a few times on vehicles that have been shutdown But they have always expanded upon startup and are fine....
The Lower Looks Fairly Old and only partly collapses under higher RPM.... I am going to change the Upper hose at a Minimum as its really Bad and probably a lot older than I am thinking and really Soft. I am just wondering if the radiator could be plugged up causing some of this.. Or anything else I should check into????
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I've got a 2006 Sonata LX, that has been leaking PS fluid for a while, but has gotten quite a bit worse lately. I finally put it up on ramps, and crawled underneath, and from what I can see, I think it's leaking from the pressure hose someplace.
The hose is covered with some type of a silver wrap. I wiped everything down as much as I could with a rag, waited for an hour, then crawled back underneath. There was some new fluid on the hose wrapping right above where it goes into the steering gear box (the driver-side leg of the hose).
Does this sound like it could be the hose? Would it be ok to remove the protective wrap to make sure? it's only wire-tied on to secure it, so I don't see why not.
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My 2007 Sonata continues to throw a P0456 code, small evap leak detected, gas cap is tight, getting ready to check the evap hoses. The question I have is the evap system covered under the emissions warranty at all ?
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(E350 van)... I smelled diesel fuel inside the van tonight and used my flashlight to investigate the leak. The cover around the blue spring is damp.
Before I remove every again to gain access to the filter housing to fix the leak, what I am may encounter. Seems like a good time to do the blue spring upgrade. Can I access the egr valve to inspect and clean?
What are the possible areas to check for the leak? Sometimes finding little problems leads to finding big problems. When my FICM went out I discovered the battery terminal clamp was broke.
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Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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We suspect that we do indeed have a small leak in the radiator. If we keep the fluid to the full mark, can we drive it without concern. We do realize that is will have to be replace but we are hoping to drive it for a while longer.
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The inter cooler to throttle body hose and it seems to have coolant all over it.
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CEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4x4 four liter inline 6. have a coolant drip at bottom radiator hose, change hose. but still drip. Could water pump be leaking. and it running down on the bottom radiator hose.
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I've noticed a spring of coolant shooting out of a connector that I'm assuming is connected to the bottom radiator hose via a smaller hose. Is there a hose that splits off the bottom radiator hose that is smaller. The leak is not coming from the hose, but the connector it's hooked to. Is this a replaceable part? What is it for?
97' Aerostar... 3.0 V6 with AC
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I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 177K. I'm planning on getting a new car in a few months. The radiator has a small leak at the top. Is a product such as Barr's stop leak a viable solution to get me through a few months or will it cause problems?
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So about 2 yes ago I had a cracked intake manifold and had it replaced..shortly after had low egr flow codes that had me replace every sensor involved on top and three that ford found for me. And fixed...my 01 f150 5.4 super crew has been my best friend last 165k of its 246. So it has a small leak in radiator. Didn't think that would do anything for a bit. Well after almost overheating a few times I pulled up to a job and water was pouring out the top back passenger side....blah blah blah saving 1400 this time I pulled everything to the head. Took off intake put back together torqued to 20lbs.
Still mix fires at low idle and low rpms.gets worse longer I sit at light have redone plugs switched coil pack at the misfire location..still missing. the round black sensor before the egr out of the intake has good vac in but limited to egr. Don't think this is right...has lean codes both banks....but I also had a PVC not in and the exhaust outflow sensor had a hose knocked off again...misfiring...checking hoses nothing obvious... Perhaps the spare coil is no good now....keep one two handy for wet locations... Did I not do intake right...and I did use rtv
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