Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Rough Idle With Engine Sputtering - Fuel Injector Failure
Oct 26, 2015
My new 2015 Sonata 2.0Twith 8000 miles started running oddly about 2 weeks ago. Rough idle with engine "sputtering". Erratic acceleration -- merging into traffic on highway and car not going over 40mph, even with gas pedal all the way to the floor. On deceleration, clunky down-shifting. Very hard to drive. Dealership first came back with diagnosis of "buildup on throttle plate" (Note - I use only high-quality gas AND only have 8000 miles on car, 3500 or that being one long highway road trip). Then, after 3 days of diagnosis, they say I need 2 new fuel injectors I am baffled how a new car can have either buildup or failed fuel injectors...
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I have an '88 EXP Escort with the non-HO 1.9L
I was noticing a rough idle (vibrating, sounded like it was bogging down)
I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Still happening.
Noticed that my o2 sensor was unplugged. Plugged it back in. Still happening.
Went to check the air filter and noticed the insane amount of fuel that was coming from my injector.
I am getting horrible gas mileage (8-12mpg)
Here is a video of what I am seeing: [URL] ....
What would be causing that much fuel to be sent out?
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1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
Having a rough idle on a cold start. After some research and closer inspection of the vehicle, I'm quite certain I have at least one leaking injector that is flooding a cylinder and causing the car to misfire on a cold start. I'm also not at the gas mileage I should be at.
So I'm wondering, is fuel injector replacement as straightforward of a job as it looks? Any major issues I could run into in doing a replacement?
I'm planning on replacing all six injectors (I can get them for $50 each buying online with a discount code), but given that the vehicle is so old am I better off just replacing the faulty ones? I'm assuming pulling the spark plugs and seeing which cylinder is wet will tell me which I need to replace.
And one more question: Is there a way to depressurize the fuel system when I park the car for the night, thus preventing fuel (or most of it) from leaking into the engine until I get this fixed? I've read that just unscrewing the gas cap can depressurize the system.
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Noticed a rattling sound from the front end of the car when hitting certain types of bumps/rough road. Turns out my right front stabilizer bar needs replacing. Dealer has ordered part, and it's covered under warranty. However, I thought stabilizer bars were supposed to be replaced in pairs. Do I need to ask them to replace both the front right and left, or is just replacing the right ok?
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 liter 2 wheel drive super crew that idles rough with surges in the idle. Weird thing is it only does it when it's 55 degrees or below. So it's fine now in the heat but winter is coming and the colder it is the worse the idle. Replaced maf sensor.
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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2003 Elantra gt 90,0000 miles manual transmission. Rough idle under 1000 rpm it smooths out completely above 1000 rpm.
Also the engine makes a ticking noise from a cold start up. It stops making the ticking noise after 1500rpm or when the engine warms up.
Occasionally the car has a sputtering backfire. This happens when I park the car after being on the highway.
Replaced the plugs, wires, and the pcv valve. Dropped the oil pan and it and the oil pump pick up screen were clean.
The only check engine light to come on was for the speed sensor. It has since gone out on it's own.
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Lock/unlock button on door handle failed? Over the past couple of weeks mine has iced up a couple of times. I'm pretty sure water is getting behind the button and freezing. Now it seems like the button only works intermittently, and it definitely has a spongy feel to it when you press it. Off to the dealer I guess. Though if it's because of ice it's probably going to fail every year.....
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my excursion just started hard and had rough idle one morning then code P0270 - injector, FICM or wires between are the logical choices I think.
started with wires - all connections good at FICM and injectors (applied dielectric silicone) - checked all 4 wires from injector connector pins for resistance with omh meter from X-1 connector. no change
so next is FICM. couple years back sent to ed for repair. if I remember right it was power supply side only so the "brain" side might have gone? good news is could I get a loaner FICM off fellow 6.0 and installed (can't confirm condition of loaner - trucks been parked a while) same code same cylinder - no change.
I read somewhere possibly swapping two injectors (say 2 and 4?) and see if the code follows the injector or stays with the cylinder, further test for a bad FICM
Is that necessary? I would hate buy and replace the #4 injector just to put it back together to find no change then forking over 6 7 hundred more on a new FICM.
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I have a holley 390 cfm carb on a 78 F250, 300 I6 with headers and an offy dp intake. Somewhere i am getting way too much fuel to the engine and it is sputtering and smoking bad. I have checked the float level, needle and seat, and power valve. All seemed ok but i replaced the power valve and needle and seat on the primary side just to be sure. Even with the float level adjusted way low and the idle mixture screws turned way in the truck would still sputter and spew out black smoke at idle and all throttle positions. I can't figure out where the gas is coming from. I checked to make sure the butterflies were closed and they were. I looked down the throat of the carb when it was running and didn't see any gas rushing in. When i take the carb off the bottom is soaked and the gasket and spacer is all soaked and theres gas sitting in the bottom of my intake. Where is this gas coming from?
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I bought this truck a few months ago. After trying everything under the sun to try and rectify a poor running problem, it was realized that injectors needed replacing. Ended up putting in 160cc/30% unlimited diesel performance injectors. The truck has a rough idle and surging problem. After trying to install the chip from gearhead, the truck didn't run any different, ultimately (according to the shop doing the install) smoking the ECU. New stock ECU, same problem. Goes good under throttle, just idle is bad. I get weird looks at the gas station. People think it has a big cam.
7.3 Rough Idle - YouTube...
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2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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Today I went and test drove a used 2006 Dodge Stratus SXT from a private party. Everything about the car was great except it had a bit of a rough idle; there was a slight sputtering noise when not in motion, and the car itself vibrated very slightly. It didn't bother me too much while I was driving because it accelerated and shifted fine and the engine sounded very strong, otherwise.
When the test drive was over I pointed out the noise to the owner, and he admitted that he had mis-timed the timing belt slightly which was causing the sputtering (he is a mechanic and replaced it himself). I was worried about this, but I did some research when I got home and learned that this model of Stratus has a non-interference engine.
My question is this: should that timing belt be a deal breaker for me? Will this cause major mechanical issues down the road? I know it will reduce power but I only really need the car to commute, so I don't mind if I'm not toe-to-toe with a Challenger. I'm just worried it will eventually cause a costly problem.
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I replaced my EGR valve vacuum check valve, but now started getting sputtering/rough idle. I'm pretty sure the direction of the vacuum check valve is correct, but I tried both ways to be sure and still got the sputtering at idle.
The old vacuum check valve didn't give me the sputter. I only replaced it because it was melted and I'm not sure it was working. I included a photo of it. It's orange and black.
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So I have a little weird issue. My car has been sputtering a little when sitting idle at lights and such. But once I fill it up with gas the sputtering is even more noticeable. What this is?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
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Well my 39000 mile run of zero faults ended with a intake manifold failure. The check engine light came on whilst on a Yosemite trip, I checked fluids, etc, car was driving ok, but when I reached my destination I noticed a rough idle. Next time I started it a couple of days later the check engine light was flashing, and it was a rougher idle, so I knew enough not to drive it.
The closest dealer fixed it (no cost to me) under the power-train warranty (nice customer care from Michaels Fresno plus they had the parts in stock).
I learned a couple of things being stranded:
1) Problems happen but they can be accurately diagnosed and fixed.
2) $150 coverage for towing on my insurance policy doesn't get you very far. But I wanted to take it to VW to simplify any warranty work and have it repaired quickly, so I paid quite a bit of overage.
3) Tow trucks don't carry a family of 4, so the logistics of getting a rental car to get my family home wasn't simple.
4) If you have to be stranded, Yosemite valley with the free shuttles, is a pleasant place to be.
5) If you need a reminder just how good a car the Tig is to drive, just try renting a Jeep Compass for few days...
Diags for the record:
GFF found 9 faults: P0170, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P068A, P2015. Found arm for intake runner flap came apart causing vacuum leak that caused engine misfires.
Parts
1 x 06J-133-201-AS Manifold
4 x 06J-998-907-B Repair Kit
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I recently purchased an 06 f150 fx4 5.4L with 60K miles. Just recently my check engine light came on and I've noticed a slight rough idle in park. I took it to autozone and the code read P0422 evap emission leak. Bought a new fuel cap but didn't work... EGR valve?
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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