I have a 2001 f150 5.4 liter 2 wheel drive super crew that idles rough with surges in the idle. Weird thing is it only does it when it's 55 degrees or below. So it's fine now in the heat but winter is coming and the colder it is the worse the idle. Replaced maf sensor.
View 2 RepliesI am new to FTE and have a question about my 99 4.2l. After it warms up, i can shut it off and about 30 mins later try to start it again and it will idle very rough and sometimes stall. I also noticed that it surges sometimes with just off idle throttle when its cold. I am not getting any codes thrown, here's what I've done so far: cleaned the maf and throttle body, and it didnt work at all. I did convert my cht over to ect by using the plugged coolant outlet on the lower right side of the intake manifold and extending the connector wires which actually solved the problem a little bit but it still does it from time to time.
More info about the cht to ect conversion, but after reading that ford did away with them in later models i wanted to do the same while at the same time making it so much easier to swap it out if ever needed. No more getting under the truck. And where im at cht's are kind of hard to come by without having to order them Anyway, it worked flawlessly! I only had to extend the wires by about 8", wrapped them and ran it along side the injectors for a clean factory look. Ill try to post pics soon...
'1999 F150, 5.4L, 85K miles ....
Fuel pump failed last year, had it replaced. Ran fine for a week or 2, then one day went into limp-home mode. Mech replace fuel pump relay, again ran fine for a month or so. Now when the ambient temp gets above 80F or so (yeah, it has already this year - I'm in Central TX), engine at full op temp, I'm experiencing some sort of heat-soak issue. Engine runs fine when cold, and at normal op temps on the road, but if it is parked for 15 - 20 minutes then restarted, the idle goes all funky - nearly dies, surges, etc. for a minute or 2, and then it seems ok.
I would go back to the same mech, but he had to close his shop due to health issues, so I'd like to see if I can resolve this. So, it is definitely heat-triggered, and "seems" like a fuel issue, but of course it could be some electrical contact having difficulty above a certain temp.
09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
View 3 Replies2003 Elantra gt 90,0000 miles manual transmission. Rough idle under 1000 rpm it smooths out completely above 1000 rpm.
Also the engine makes a ticking noise from a cold start up. It stops making the ticking noise after 1500rpm or when the engine warms up.
Occasionally the car has a sputtering backfire. This happens when I park the car after being on the highway.
Replaced the plugs, wires, and the pcv valve. Dropped the oil pan and it and the oil pump pick up screen were clean.
The only check engine light to come on was for the speed sensor. It has since gone out on it's own.
Ive been having a problem where the engine cranks and idles, sometimes rough, then I try to accelerate and the car shakes and accelerates very slowly with shaking. I replaced plugs coil and leads and fuel filter with no effect but put on a new egr valve and that fixed the problem for 2 months. The same thing happened again and I cleaned the evr solenoid and that fixed the problem for 1 month. Then the same thing happened while I was out and while limping home it fixed itself. Now a month later, the same thing happened, but when I got home and shut it off, the engine won't idle properly (very rough) for 6-9 seconds then dies. I don't know what to check at this point. Thinking it may be vacuum related or possibly a fuel injector or magic gremlins at this point.
View 8 RepliesToday I went and test drove a used 2006 Dodge Stratus SXT from a private party. Everything about the car was great except it had a bit of a rough idle; there was a slight sputtering noise when not in motion, and the car itself vibrated very slightly. It didn't bother me too much while I was driving because it accelerated and shifted fine and the engine sounded very strong, otherwise.
When the test drive was over I pointed out the noise to the owner, and he admitted that he had mis-timed the timing belt slightly which was causing the sputtering (he is a mechanic and replaced it himself). I was worried about this, but I did some research when I got home and learned that this model of Stratus has a non-interference engine.
My question is this: should that timing belt be a deal breaker for me? Will this cause major mechanical issues down the road? I know it will reduce power but I only really need the car to commute, so I don't mind if I'm not toe-to-toe with a Challenger. I'm just worried it will eventually cause a costly problem.
My new 2015 Sonata 2.0Twith 8000 miles started running oddly about 2 weeks ago. Rough idle with engine "sputtering". Erratic acceleration -- merging into traffic on highway and car not going over 40mph, even with gas pedal all the way to the floor. On deceleration, clunky down-shifting. Very hard to drive. Dealership first came back with diagnosis of "buildup on throttle plate" (Note - I use only high-quality gas AND only have 8000 miles on car, 3500 or that being one long highway road trip). Then, after 3 days of diagnosis, they say I need 2 new fuel injectors I am baffled how a new car can have either buildup or failed fuel injectors...
View 13 RepliesI replaced my EGR valve vacuum check valve, but now started getting sputtering/rough idle. I'm pretty sure the direction of the vacuum check valve is correct, but I tried both ways to be sure and still got the sputtering at idle.
The old vacuum check valve didn't give me the sputter. I only replaced it because it was melted and I'm not sure it was working. I included a photo of it. It's orange and black.
The ole 5.4l hit a snag today. I was on my way to fill her up and she started sputtering and damn near died! i filled her up and it was like nothing ever happened. Took her to AutoZone and the diagnosis was a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
I have a connection with Bumper-to-Bumper to get the part for cheap but I'm not sure if i want to dive into either moving the bed or dropping the tank. I'd prefer to move the bed.
Have a 2002 SC lariat with climate control. A few weeks ago, the system stopped blowing air. It seems the brains still work for temp control as I can adjust the temp and the natural flow air through the system will change temp.
I heard a sputtering noise from the fans a few weeks ago at about the time it quit. Is this because the servo motors for the fans quit or if it would be something from the controls?
About a year ago several things started with my 1991 Ranger (180,000 miles, and has always run just like it did when I drove it off the lot). Maybe they are related, maybe not.
1) significantly reduced mileage,
2) surging at idle from 1000 rpm up to 1300 rpm and then right back down - very rhythmic,
3) Check Engine light comes on every now and then, but goes off in less than 30 minutes, or if engine is stopped and restarted,
4) way less heat available through the heating system,
5) somewhat reduced power.
I have changed the thermostat and replaced the plugs and ignition wires, but nothing has changed in the way the truck runs.
Car surges/rocking at idle whether at idle or in park but runs fine. have new plugs and wires new 02 sensor and mas air flow but still the same problem..
View 8 RepliesI've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
'86 Ranger, 2.3L, Automatic transmission.
Been having a sputtering/rough running situation once warmed up, replaced every so often with open loop smooth running. Lately, have had several occasions where the truck stalls and will not restart after a hard right turn (fuel pump powers up, tho) After 30 or so minutes of repose, truck will restart and run.
Recent History:
During the last 1-1/2 years, had cylinder head rebuilt and reinstalled. Had to run it all winter w/o EGR tube attached because of bad fitting at exhaust manifold. Replaced the fitting last spring and replaced cat back exhaust system. Had manifold hole plugged with pipe plug all winter. Have had a diagnosis of poor compression in the past, have not rechecked compression since head rebuild, but did have a noticable increase in power.
Have checked base ignition timing and it is correct. Valve timing appears to be as it should be. Have not had the opportunity to check for spark during one of the breakdowns, since I had no tools and it was night time.
The codes:
Early in Fall, got 14, 21, 24, 34. The 14 particularly interested me, as it suggests ignition problems.
Just before pulling the distributor, I checked codes again; 14 had disappeared as did 34 (EGR issues I resolved above) but I still got 21 (coolant temp out of range) and 41 (no HEGO switch) So I left the distributor alone and replace the HEGO sensor and cleared codes.
Last code check, just got 21(coolant temp sensor voltage out of range) and 24(air charge or Vane air temp voltage out of range) There is very little heat on cold days, full radiator and I've "burped" the cylinder head on an incline more than once chasing trapped air.
I'm suspicious of the TIF module, since the stalling is after warm up and self corrects. It was replaced once perhaps 12 years ago.
We're talking about a 2002 Subaru Forester with only 80,000 miles on it.
This winter, the cold seems to have taken its toll. The fuel economy is bouncing around between 16 and 24 MPG and the car runs a bit roughly. Especially when it's colder (<30 F) there is often a lack of power/RPM when depressing the gas pedal. The problem is worst in city driving, but exists on the highway also. It doesn't go away during my 15-20 minute commute. For a period of a couple weeks, it was even easy to induce misfires (I think that's what they were; quiet pffft pffft pffft sounds during severe lack of power) by fully depressing the gas. But even if you half-depress and hold the pedal steady, the car will accelerate weakly and then sometimes surge forward. Other times it seems to be idling strong and running rich. Now that it's warmer (>40 F) the problem has lessened, but I've also started feeding it 93 octane gas and the car feels rougher than normal.
A year or two ago, I replaced the front oxygen sensor and spark plugs (prior to problem). This winter, I took it to a mechanic who couldn't explain the problem and replaced the spark plug wires.
Based on my reading, it seems like the only other most likely culprit is the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor that's mounted on the intake manifold. I haven't worked up the effort (and can't find my multimeter) to do an electrical test of the MAP sensor's output itself. I'm also not keen on just buying a $270 part without sound evidence, nor paying for ill-informed guessing by lesser mechanics (than yourselves, of course!). I also have a sneaking suspicion that the automatic transmission could be slipping -- when I drive with 2 adults and two kids in the car up a hill, it seems more underpowered than days of old.
OEM plus. 93k. Um tune. Evoms intake.
Did the plugs and coil packs, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body (Did a vagcom alignment) as well as some other insignificant maintance.
Car ran fine for weeks after, but recently it has started to bounce around randomly at idle. Like 650rpm(normal) for a few seconds. Then it will Slowly climb to 800rpms, hold there for a few seconds. Then back down to 650ish for a few seconds, then back up to 800 for a few seconds. And so on. It's very subtle and very random. Then sometimes when accelerating, I can feel it in the gas peddle. Like a slight pulsing power loss. Very slight and of a similar rhythm to the idle issue.
I do have a check engine light for Load Calculation cross check-p1143-001 upper limit exceeded. But that has been a battle I have been fighting for a year or so, and I think that is some kind of vacuum leak, but this rpm issue just started a few weeks ago. The only thing I was thinking so far is that when I was doing the plugs and coil packs, I noticed that there was a slight bit of what looked like dielectric grease on each coil pack already from the factory. So I didn't put any more in the coil packs sleeve part that fits over the plug. So was that a mistake? And if it was a mistake would this be a symptom of that?
I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
My '99 was running rough - coughing/spitting/sputtering when under a load - especially at lower idle/rpms and going up inclines.
Brought to mechanic and he put it on "the scope" which told him the #1 pack was bad. Replaced. Got it back and it ran better, but, then went back to the coughing/sputtering.
Replaced the spark plugs - OEM Motorcrafts. Seemed perfect for a wee bit, now I notice an occasional cough/spit but all in all not bad.
Curious: was it foolish to not replace ALL coil packs at time of plugs or is it ...acceptable to do just the plugs and then come back and do packs if needed.
1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!