Ford - Taurus :: 2001 - Surges / Rocking Whether At Idle Or In Park
Mar 15, 2011
Car surges/rocking at idle whether at idle or in park but runs fine. have new plugs and wires new 02 sensor and mas air flow but still the same problem..
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Mar 15, 2011
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Ford - Taurus :: 1997 - Overheating While Idle Either In Drive Or Park
I have a 97 ford taurus that when it is at idle (either in driver or park) it over heats. But if you give it some gas and the rpms get up to over 2300 the temp starts dropping immidiatly down to where it should be. Also the heater in the car stopped working not sure if the problems are connected.
View 10 RepliesChevrolet - 1500 :: Engine Surges When In Park
My 1992 Chevy truck started surging or revving up when in park. It will tac to 1000 rpm's then go back down - up and down. It won't barely drive down the road. Didn't know if this is a fuel pump problem or something more serious. We've replace several parts that were described on the internet as "could be the problem", but nothing has worked.
View 2 RepliesFord - F150 :: Sputtering / Idle Rough With Surges
I have a 2001 f150 5.4 liter 2 wheel drive super crew that idles rough with surges in the idle. Weird thing is it only does it when it's 55 degrees or below. So it's fine now in the heat but winter is coming and the colder it is the worse the idle. Replaced maf sensor.
View 2 RepliesFord - Ranger :: 1991 - Surges At Idle / CEL Comes On But Goes Off In Less Than 30 Minutes
About a year ago several things started with my 1991 Ranger (180,000 miles, and has always run just like it did when I drove it off the lot). Maybe they are related, maybe not.
1) significantly reduced mileage,
2) surging at idle from 1000 rpm up to 1300 rpm and then right back down - very rhythmic,
3) Check Engine light comes on every now and then, but goes off in less than 30 minutes, or if engine is stopped and restarted,
4) way less heat available through the heating system,
5) somewhat reduced power.
I have changed the thermostat and replaced the plugs and ignition wires, but nothing has changed in the way the truck runs.
Ford - Taurus :: 1996 - Won't Shift Out Of Park
96 Taurus 3.0 liter OHV will not shift out of Park. I tried the workaround in the owners manual where you take the key out, re-insert it, turn it to the OFF position then start car in neutral, but shifter still will not come out of Park. Fuse #5 is fine, and all my brake lights work. Steering wheel is not locked.
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 4.2L - Hot Start Rough Idle / Surges Sometimes
I am new to FTE and have a question about my 99 4.2l. After it warms up, i can shut it off and about 30 mins later try to start it again and it will idle very rough and sometimes stall. I also noticed that it surges sometimes with just off idle throttle when its cold. I am not getting any codes thrown, here's what I've done so far: cleaned the maf and throttle body, and it didnt work at all. I did convert my cht over to ect by using the plugged coolant outlet on the lower right side of the intake manifold and extending the connector wires which actually solved the problem a little bit but it still does it from time to time.
More info about the cht to ect conversion, but after reading that ford did away with them in later models i wanted to do the same while at the same time making it so much easier to swap it out if ever needed. No more getting under the truck. And where im at cht's are kind of hard to come by without having to order them Anyway, it worked flawlessly! I only had to extend the wires by about 8", wrapped them and ran it along side the injectors for a clean factory look. Ill try to post pics soon...
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Idle Rough / Nearly Dies / Surges Above 80 Degrees
'1999 F150, 5.4L, 85K miles ....
Fuel pump failed last year, had it replaced. Ran fine for a week or 2, then one day went into limp-home mode. Mech replace fuel pump relay, again ran fine for a month or so. Now when the ambient temp gets above 80F or so (yeah, it has already this year - I'm in Central TX), engine at full op temp, I'm experiencing some sort of heat-soak issue. Engine runs fine when cold, and at normal op temps on the road, but if it is parked for 15 - 20 minutes then restarted, the idle goes all funky - nearly dies, surges, etc. for a minute or 2, and then it seems ok.
I would go back to the same mech, but he had to close his shop due to health issues, so I'd like to see if I can resolve this. So, it is definitely heat-triggered, and "seems" like a fuel issue, but of course it could be some electrical contact having difficulty above a certain temp.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Pulsating Rough Idle When In Park With Defrost Or AC On
what would cause a pulsating rough idle when in park with the defrost or a/c on? when I turn it off or to any other position it's fine even when I turn if off it's fine as well? there is no Check Engine Light showing at this point.
View 7 RepliesFord - Taurus :: 2008 - Slight Shudder / Jerk When Put In Reverse Out Of Park
About three weeks ago I noticed a slight shudder in my 2008 Ford Taurus with app. 75,000 miles (automatic). It did not come from the steering wheel, but the car itself seemed to be shaking, but only slightly. Like someone who's had too much caffeine holding out an unsteady hand kind of shudder. It was going in for an oil change anyway, so I had my mechanic check it out, even thought the shudder was gone the next day. It came back, for a few moments while the mechanic was driving. He couldn't tell what was causing it, but said not to worry.
Two days later when I was in the car for the first time that day the car jerked when I put it in reverse out of park. I checked the transmission fluid, and, sure enough, it was about a quart low. All symptoms went away. I took it back in to double check that there was no leak and that everything seemed in good working order. The car was given the all-clear.
Then this week the shudder returned, again, only sometimes. It doesn't seem related to temperature, distance driven, or weather. And the maddening thing is that it only does it sometimes. I checked the transmission fluid again and it is still in the safe zone.
Two days ago, after being parked overnight, the car shook very noticeably for about ten seconds the first time I switched it out of park, first into reverse, then into drive. This was different to the other shudder (I know, seriously). This was a shake, like the bass in a super strong stereo was cranked. Then it stopped and the car drove just fine. I parked it for twelve hours then switched the gears again. Nothing out of the ordinary happened.
Today it had no issue when I first switched gears, but while I drove (for about a half an hour) that original slight shudder was there. This time at all speeds, not just low ones. I went where I needed to go, drove it again about four hours later and it was fine. No shudder, nothing and this drive went through road work with stop and go traffic as well as some time on a highway at speeds up to 55mph. I drove it another time after that, and again, no symptoms. Finally, I drove to the store. The shudder had returned. I parked, shopped for about 15-20 minutes, returned to the car, and it hesitated to accelerate as I pulled out of the spot. It did not jerk or seem to try to catch up. It simply delayed, but accelerated smoothly.
I parked again and let it rest for about 10 minutes, started it up, and no trouble at all. Even that weird shudder was gone. I think this car is toying with me. I'm taking it back to the mechanic, but the trouble is that it doesn't always have these symptoms. I drove it Thursday on a two hour trip and back again with no issues at all. This might make it difficult for the mechanic to diagnose, but at least it's a guy I trust. There are no warning lights on, no smells (unless they are faint as I don't smell things well), and no strange sounds.
Taurus :: 2007 Ford - Console Shifter Hard To Move From Reverse To Park
My cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Surges / Buck At Acceleration - Gallop / Miss / Stall At Idle?
I've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Surges In Hot Weather And Losing Power
2001 F150! It does this weird little surge, burping and farting away...but only in ambient heat. The engine never gets hot, it never over heats. What have we done? A full tuneup with new plugs and boots, oil change, new air filter, gas filter. It did it again...took it back in and had the fuel pressure checked, fuel injectors are fine...it can't be the fuel pump, it runs great unless it is hot weather. It has twice blown the P0171 system lean bank 1 code and has gone away after the tuneup and again after the new o2 sensor. It runs great, except in hot weather, starts surging and losing power...
View 9 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Uneven Idle / Slight Surges Under Acceleration
OEM plus. 93k. Um tune. Evoms intake.
Did the plugs and coil packs, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body (Did a vagcom alignment) as well as some other insignificant maintance.
Car ran fine for weeks after, but recently it has started to bounce around randomly at idle. Like 650rpm(normal) for a few seconds. Then it will Slowly climb to 800rpms, hold there for a few seconds. Then back down to 650ish for a few seconds, then back up to 800 for a few seconds. And so on. It's very subtle and very random. Then sometimes when accelerating, I can feel it in the gas peddle. Like a slight pulsing power loss. Very slight and of a similar rhythm to the idle issue.
I do have a check engine light for Load Calculation cross check-p1143-001 upper limit exceeded. But that has been a battle I have been fighting for a year or so, and I think that is some kind of vacuum leak, but this rpm issue just started a few weeks ago. The only thing I was thinking so far is that when I was doing the plugs and coil packs, I noticed that there was a slight bit of what looked like dielectric grease on each coil pack already from the factory. So I didn't put any more in the coil packs sleeve part that fits over the plug. So was that a mistake? And if it was a mistake would this be a symptom of that?
Ford Excursion :: 4WD - Could Not Get 4Hi Or 4Lo To Engage With Rocking Back And Forth
I had to make a few trips up and down the snow covered driveway. I moved the dash switch to 4wd high for each trip and then back to 2wd when I was turning around at each end. On my final trip back, I got stuck while turning around in 2wd. I tried switching to 4wd high and low but could not get either to engage with rocking back and forth.
The dash light did not come on and only the rear right wheel was spinning. Shifting to park or neutral and turning the switch to 4wd did not change the results. When I finally got myself unstuck, the 4wd still wouldn't engage when driving in a straight line.
What could have broke or stopped working? Bad vacuum line? Bad fuse? Could I have still initiated 4wd by manually locking the hubs? If so, is the process with the dash switch still the same even when manually locking the hubs?
Passat (B5) :: At Idle Car Surges From About 800 - 1200 Rpms / Error Codes
I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 2002 - Surges Forward While Idle & Rev Up To 1500 Rpm?
I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
Explorer :: 1998 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto - Engine Unexpectedly Surges From Idle
1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!
Ford - Taurus :: 1997 - Rough Idle When Warm
I drive a hot mess of a vehicle. It is a 1997 for taurus that's got more than its fair share of miles on it.My big brother drove this car when he was 16 and I am 22. I am a college kid and I don't do much to my car knowing it will die soon but at the same time I don't have much money to do much. We have a good relationship most of the time and I gladly provide gas and regular oil changes in exchange for transportation.
My car when its warm outside especially idles very rough. So rough that at times it stalls out. It seems to happen most often and to the worst degree when the outside temp is very high and it has been running recently and I'm trying to start it up again. At other times and temperatures it has idled rough but not bad enough to stall. Once I start driving, or moving, its fine. The rough idle makes my car sound like a boat, that's the best way I can explain it.
Why my car does this? How to fix it?
Accord :: 2001 Transmission - Car Sometimes Surges When Changing Into 3rd Gear
I am driving an 01 Accord Coupe as a trial from a family member before I decide to purchase. I am hoping to upgrade from my 91 Celica that has some strange transmission issues. Having said that, I am worried about the Accord's tranny, and I guess I am being paranoid!
When changing into 3rd gear, the car sometimes "surges" into it. It usually happens when I first start driving it, perhaps the second or third time it changes into the gear after being started up and driven. It's not for very long, perhaps half a second, and it's not a lunging type of surge, but I guess I am a bit gunshy right now. Don't want to trade one set of tranny issues for another.
It has 130,000 miles on it. My family member bought it off of someone else. They have owned it for about 2 years, but didn't drive it very often at all. I need it for a daily commuter (2+ hours a day.) I am not sure if the transmission has ever been serviced (fluid changed, etc.)
Ford - Taurus :: 2000 - In Idle Car Sounds Like Rocks In A Tumbler
2000 Ford Taurus w/ 233,000 miles. Yep, it's been good to me, and I've been good to it! However, the romance may be over now. There is a not so pleasing sound of rocks in a rock tumbler when the car is in idle, or in drive waiting at stop lights. Doesn't matter if I just started the vehicle or it's been running awhile. Noise is definitely coming from the engine and not at the rear of the vehicle (just had the muffler replaced - noise was present before and after). I'm also burning through oil. No tell tale puddles under the car though.
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