Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2.4L Engine Failure / Substantial Rattle Emerged From Under The Hood
Mar 22, 2015
I was driving our '11 Sonata Limited 2.4 today with wife and infant son... While merging onto a main road, I accelerated to switch lanes without slowing traffic and noticed the car felt oddly underpowered.. I kept my foot on the gas, and a substantial rattle emerged from under the hood so I let off and drove steady on... We made it to our destination and I popped the hood to find oil soaked into the valve cover and head... I checked the oil and the stick was still wet, but since the car was just running I'm not sure the exact level...
Unfortunately, I recognize the noise it made on the road, and I'm 99% certain it spun a rod bearing... In other words, the engine is shot. 63,362 miles, synthetic oil changes every 4k-5k miles, dealer maintained...
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I hear a rattle or growl from the engine at 2,000 - 2500 rpm. Car performs fine. What it may be?
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2011 Sonata will not go into drive after washing under the hood. It will go into reverse, Park and Neutral, but no drive. Also, the gear indicator light on the dash is black when you try and put it in drive. What I may have gotten wet that could have caused this?
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I recently acquired a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS after my old car was totaled. I love the car but I've already had a problem trying to open the hood. The interior hood release lever does not pop the hood. I took it to Hyundai and they were able to pop it. They told me the bottom of the hood latch was broken! Needless to say I'd like to replace the part myself but I cant figure out how to move the hood latch from in front of the engine.
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Picked up my new 2013 Sonata GL 3-weeks ago. Noticed a little surface rust on the front struts when I picked it up and when I was washing it for the first time last week I saw a rust spot where the chrome trim mounts on the hood. I removed the trim and took these photos...
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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I think my oil pump bolt died today. Strange enough it happened when I was parking my car at work. I am sure it could be something else but its near the mileage that if it didn't happen early in its life it would happen around now. About 65k miles on my 07 3.6L 4MO
I have brand new 2011 2.5SE Jetta for loaner....
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Having problem with their Electronic Power Steering (EPS)? My new 2011 Sonata SE's EPS failed numerous times at ~500 miles. Failures all occurred shortly after starting the car when it had been sitting for a couple of hours. The EPS and ESC fail lights came on and I lost my power steering when I tried to make my first turn. The problem always cleared when I shut the car off and restarted. My dealer service department reset the computer in the steering column and noted that this is the first time they've had to work this sort of problem. Hopefully that fixed it for good...two days so far with no problems. Maybe a software glitch?
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What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
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I have been out of the country for the past 3 months and I left my car at my parents place. I have a 2011 Sonata SE with Nav. I got a call from my dad saying that my car is dead (battery) and the doors have locked. He previously was able to jump the car since he was able to open the doors with the key fob remote. Now the doors will not open. I assume the battery has died beyond where the key fob can open them. I return back home this week and would like to be able to deal with this headache before I return and come back to a working car. How to get into the car or at least popping the hood without being able to get in the car? I've read up about other cars having a backup battery or special mechanism on the door handle for these situations so I would think Hyundai thought this through...
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I picked up my 2012 limited Turbo last night but noticed there's a rattle of some sort when I accelerate around 2k rpm, it kind of sounds like a bunch of metals being shaken up. Is this normal? I am also trying to test for the left/right pull, but with all the bad roads here in the city its getting kinda tough.
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I just purchased my 2012 Sonata GLS about 2 weeks ago and had 64,000 miles on it. Put a few hundred miles on it around town without issue and then head out on a road trip and put about 750 miles on it when I had the issue. I was going about 60 mph and went to pass a semi and when I stepped on it the car started lurching, crazy valve rattle, and seemed to lose a lot of power. Got back behind the semi and babied it until I found a place to pull over and check it out. It was 2 quarts low on oil so I topped it off and it sounded fine, running smooth and no ticking or anything. Drove it around a bit and everything seemed fine and eventually got back on the highway and running fine. Pulled over after 100 miles and another 1/2 quart low, topped off.
Another 100 miles and another 1/2 quart, but running great with no issues. 150 miles from home and it happens again when I try to pass with the rattling valves and loss of power and I have to limp it to a gas station and now hearing the valve rattle and chugging on just a slight incline and going 20 mph. Get it towed 150 miles back to the Honda dealer where i purchased it from (long story) and their tech drove it and said he thought it needed a new motor since he barely made it back to the shop. They send it over to my local Hyundai dealer, and all of the sudden it is running great again! I go and drive with the tech and hammering on the throttle and it's running like a champ. I left it for him to drive home and they put 98 miles on it without issue. I picked it up yesterday and they said to bring it back if it happens again, but totally stumped as what it could be. They did start the oil consumption test so I will update when that is done.
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So on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
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I have a 2011 sonata with 72000 Km on it. As I am driving at highway speeds I notice a rattle from the drivers side towards the door. I can't quite locate where but have tried pushing trim and I can't stop it. Took it to the dealer and was told there was nothing wrong and no rattle. On a trip yesterday I noticed the rattle stopped as I braked. So I then applied very light pressure on the brake pedal. So light it did not come off cruise. And the rattle stops. What is the likely cause? I want to be prepared with some ideas when I take it back to the dealer.
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I recently purchase a 2011 Sonata. It sounds like there is a rattle in acceleration coming from the exhaust (passenger rear)
I had the just alignment professionally checked, and it's spot on, but it seems to pull to the left still.
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I have a 2014 Sonata with 22k miles. I love this car but lately I've noticed valve rattle under acceleration. Brought this up with service tech and he said I'm not driving the car on long enough trips to keep it cleaned off. When I researched the GDI very little info comes up for Hyundai mainly vw and BMW. I guess what I'm asking is is the only fix for the carbon build up removing the intake and cleaning the valves manually or is there another way.
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I drive a '11 Sonata GLS and experience the rattling noise/clanking when weight shifts to the front-right of the car or when i go over a dip, and the noise is coming from the passenger side of the vehicle. I THINK it is the glove box issue that has been mentioned before and I am going to purchase some felt tape and apply this method [URL] .... that was posted here. Did this correct the issue?
And also when i reverse the car (specifically when I turn the wheel to the right) I get a knocking noise, which seems to also be coming from the front-right (or back) I can't tell. Can this be an axle? I'm at 79k mileage so the dealership wants $125 to diagnose the problem and that amount will go towards anything needing repair. Should I take the car to another shop instead?
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When going down the road I notice a rattle noise coming from the steering column area. I took it to the dealer a week or so after noticing it. I purchased the car brand new and like I said I took it to the dealer a week after purchasing it and they said they could not find anything and said they zip tied the brake lines or some bs hoping that would solve my problem.
It is now kind of obvious and I am going to take it back in to another dealership that has a better reputation.
I took a video last night so you can hear the noise I am talking about.
2013 Hyundai Sonata steering column rattle - YouTube
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My 2011 sonata rattles when starting. It sounds like noisy lifters and quits after 2-3 seconds. It does not do it on the first start-up of the day, but on subsequent starts when the engine is warm.
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I've got a issue on the passenger side interior of my car that only seems to happen when it's cold/cool. I can hear a rattle coming from something plastic. I've turned off the radio and emptied the glovebox to ensure they weren't at fault.
Here is a recording I made last night with my phone. There was a decent amount of road noise on I-295, but when listening just now from stereo desktop speakers, I could hear the sound.
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I have 2011 Sonata Limited 2.4L I have a rattle that seems to come from the engine compartment near/thru the dash/driver area. I am getting pretty good at replicating the issue. When I accelerate or decelerate thru 1500 - 1700 rpm the rattel/vibration happens. If I can continue to keep the same rpm level the rattle remains. It tends to be even more frequent when the AC is on. I have had the dealer look at 2-3 times and they cannot seem to remedy the problem.
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