Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine Jerks / Hesitates And Stalls When Going From 40 To 60 Mph
Nov 22, 2015
MY 2011 Sonata has 84K miles. Last couple of months, I've noticed it engine jerks / hesitates / stalls when going from 40 mph to 60 mph. Once it reaches 60 mph I can go 70mph or higher without any problem. I've made several visits to dealership without any success. First, they diagnosed as bad oxygen sensor and bad spark plugs. The problem did not go away after replacing both. According to them it does not give any error code. Now they're asking to perform fuel cleaning service. I feel they're shooting in the dark. Does it sounds like problem with the automatic transmission i.e problem shifting into higher gear.
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I am the original owner of a 2002 Camry V6. Recently when you take the foot off the gas to coast or just maintain speed there is a sensation of jerking- it disappears as soon as you accelerate. Took it to Toyota dealership- they were clueless- they wanted to change the transmission fluid.
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1997 licoln continental, automatic. Around first and second gear, the car hesitates to pull and will 'jerk'. While it's doing this the car can be revved unsynchronized as it will try to 'jerk' it's way past around 1st and 2nd gear. Eventually, it smooths out after it's into 3rd gear and drives normally though after roughly getting through 1st and 2nd.
In 1st and 2nd gear, if the gas is let off for a bit before smoothing out.. it will often sometimes completely come out of gear, not pulling from any power given. If it does, after popping out of gear the car will not go back into gear, even from a complete stop from 'park' then trying to put it back into 'drive'..no response to power given. However, it goes back into gear just fine, roughly again, if you turn the car completely off and put it back into 'drive'. Obviously, the car also will hesitate even worse on an incline from a dead stop.
Another note, there is a slight wobble to the crankshaft pulley.. though, i feel this issue is completely unrelated to a harmonic balancer noting that the car just pops out of gear and goes back in gear just fine when it is turned back off then back on.....but, not unless the car is completely turned off?What would the obvious culprit be...? Torque converter?
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Purchased this car new. 2008 GLS w/ V6 2.7L engine. Wife's car, so I rarely drive it. She's complained for a month about an intermittent issue with the jar "jerking", usually during slow speeds.
I felt it for the first time myself. Was halfway through a pretty tight curve at around 20 MPH, starting to slowly accelerate when I felt a definitive lurch. might have been momentary loss of acceleration, or transmission. Not sure which. No CEL thrown.
I did see another thread mentioning a 2007 with a similar issue, but that person had codes thrown that pointed to a Throttle position sensor and a need to reflash a transmission. Think I'm seeing the same situation, or would this be different ? Absent any CEL, I'm sure the dealer will not be able to find it....
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I have a 1998 Toyota Camry v6 with about 90k miles on it. When I am driving and hold the gas pedal steady the car jerks and hesitates. If I press down on the gas I can power through the problem. It also does this when I set the cruise control. There is no check engine light on.
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I was driving my car on Sunday and twice within a span of 30-45 minutes the car stalled while I was driving and just shut off. I had driven 70-80 miles earlier in the day without stopping, and after about an hour, went back out to run some errands. After a light turned green, I proceeded through the intersection and made it halfway before the car stalled. Luckily, it was on an incline and I was able to coast to a parking lot out of the way of traffic. I tried to immediately restart the car, but the engine would attempt to start, but not fire, like the alternator was faulty.
After waiting 10 minutes, the car started up, and I immediately tried to make it to an auto part store. I made it about 10 minutes down the road and the car stalled again in front of the auto part store. They came out to check the battery, alternator, and started, and said all were fine and they were not showing any issues from their test. After waiting another 10 minutes, the car started up and I was able to make it home.
I dropped the car off at the local dealer on Monday and was told they are not able to replicate the problem, and the computer is not showing any codes, so they are not sure on what to do or fix.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 which I bought a month ago from its original owner. It has 140k miles on it. Timming belt and water pump were changed at 90k, car is in very good shape, clean engine.
It has a weird issue.
In the early morning, from my house to work around 7am, I have to drive around 20 mins on freeway , I exit and drive for another 5 mins on local street which is up and downhill, at red light or when I have to turn, the car begins to hesitate like hiccup and stall on me. The car cannot start again immediately, all power is still working, the car is trying its best to turn over but it fails. However after I wait couple mins, I can restart the car. Then, the car will run just fine, absolutely fine the rest of the day.
The weird thing here is, on days I don't have to work, I start to drive it at around 10am when it's warmer and there's sunshine, and not up and downhill, it never hesitates or stalls. Even I try to drive it up a big hill near my house at noon, nothing happens. So I'm not sure if driving up and downhill playing a part in this problem.
It doesn't happen all the time when I have to drive to work in early morning, up and downhill, but more than often. The car drives great on freeway, idle excellent around 500-600 RPM. One more detail, the gas pedal kind of vibrates (very small vibration) around 1600 RPM, and it's annoying. I'm not sure if it is relating to the issue.
Here what I did to the car:
1. Clean throttle body.
2. Clean Mass Airflow Sensor. Didn't work. Then I replaced it with a used OEM one.
3. Put Techron Additive in the gas tank.
4. Replace Air Filter.
None of the above works, but I think somehow it improves a tiny little bit.
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2011 BMW 335i.
Driving 40mph, smoothly at consistent speed, in middle lane of 3 lane road during morning rush hour, no stops or turns. I had been driving for about 10-15 minutes after car had been in garage the night before. Attempted small acceleration, car did not respond, engine had turned off unclear if before or at time of attempted acceleration. Power steering was off. I put on my hazards, slowly drifted to stop, put car in park, attempted restart, first attempt failed, waited 15 seconds and second attempt successful.
For next 3 hours, the engine had a rhythmic grinding sound which then stopped. Fuel tank had been filled the day before and was not near empty. Took to dealer, they have not been able to replicate event or find anything to fix. They replaced camshaft bolts because of a recall but reported nothing faulty with the originals. They are saying there is nothing wrong with the car. Do I take it back and risk the same thing happening or buy a new car? The car has 44,000 miles.
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2006 Chevy Express 3500 ... Vehicle surges, hesitates, stalls, backfires, and is hard to start after stalling.No codes are thrown, and have had the fuel system checked out without results. 159.000 miles. last mechanic said it was not a spark plug issue. Been an ongoing problem for several months and getting worse all the time.
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This problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
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my 88 camry will start and idle fine however whenever you attempt to accelerate the vechicle the car trys to stall and hesitate badly and will not move. i have changed the fuel filter the spark plugs and plug wires i cannot figure it out. also this started out of nowere the car was driving i had been driving for about ten miles stopped at a red light and that is when the car started doing this.
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I have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
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My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. Recently the area I live in received 2 feet of snow and ice. I of course cleaned off all the snow and ice and started her up. I didn't drive anywhere that day since the roads were not clear. The next day I drove 15 minutes and upon reaching my destination's parking lot, the Sonata went into a jerking motion.
It seemed as if it wanted to stall out, like I was driving a manual. However it's an automatic. I stopped the car, and later when I went to leave it did it again. Once I got out of the parking lot and above speeds of 20 mph everything was fine. No more jerking motion.
The next day, after some time driving it does it again. My car never actually "stalls" or shuts off, it just jerks and once I can press the gas and go, it stops.
There are no odors or sounds and the car only does the jerking motion sometimes.
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When my 2009 Sonata decelerates to about 20 mph, the car jerks. This happens when my foot is off the brake. What's going on and how can I fix it?
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I have a 2011 Susuki 250 that I am no longer driving because it jerks and lunges as if it is stalling. It takes about 15 minutes before it starts stalling lunging in equal time of it running ok. The F1 light goes on at the same time as it stalls. The stall cycles are about 3-5 seconds with the same amount of time running. I'v had it at the mechanics for WAY too long. He has transferred new parts onto my bike from another new one with no success.
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Driving to work the other day on the expressway going about 65 and my truck starts vibrating and jerking like crazy. I thought i had a blow out , so I checked my tires and they were ok. Then, I thought I may had run over something. I continued off the ramp and drove on the highway to work, no sooner than a couple of minutes later it happened again. I had a tow truck take it to the dealer, this was Thursday. It's now Sunday and I haven't heard from customer service after they told me they'd call..... Its an EcoBoost by the way.
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When I slow down to stop my 2008 Sonata it jerks. It is an intermittent issue. The car has 95,000 miles and when I called the dealer I was told they would start with changing the transmission fluid and go from there. I read on some other posts of this same type of issue being fixed by installing the latest software for the transmission, but this was related to 2009 & 2010 Sonatas. Is it possible that installing some new software would work on my 2008?
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My daughter has a 2010 Sonata with a 4 cylinder and an automatic transmission. She is pretty frustrated with an intermittent problem. Every once in awhile, especially if the engine is cold, the car jerks while slowing down. She believes it is the transmission when it down shifts. I have driven the car and have not been able to duplicate the problem myself. The dealer recently changed the mapping for the transmission in hopes that would work but it hasn't. The dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the condition either.
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