Bmw - 335 :: 2011 - Engine Stalls While Moving In Traffic
Oct 6, 2014
2011 BMW 335i.
Driving 40mph, smoothly at consistent speed, in middle lane of 3 lane road during morning rush hour, no stops or turns. I had been driving for about 10-15 minutes after car had been in garage the night before. Attempted small acceleration, car did not respond, engine had turned off unclear if before or at time of attempted acceleration. Power steering was off. I put on my hazards, slowly drifted to stop, put car in park, attempted restart, first attempt failed, waited 15 seconds and second attempt successful.
For next 3 hours, the engine had a rhythmic grinding sound which then stopped. Fuel tank had been filled the day before and was not near empty. Took to dealer, they have not been able to replicate event or find anything to fix. They replaced camshaft bolts because of a recall but reported nothing faulty with the originals. They are saying there is nothing wrong with the car. Do I take it back and risk the same thing happening or buy a new car? The car has 44,000 miles.
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I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE (4-spd auto) and today had to merge in fast moving traffic....the engine hit about 4000rpm for about 2 seconds or so and then dropped back down to 2800 and eventually 2300.
Not sure what the redline is for the 2000 corolla, but I'm guessing that hitting it especially when under load is bad even for a few seconds?
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I have a 2012 GTI Autobahn, w/automatic, bought it w 7k miles on it and it was chipped. It runs great and is crazy fast. But, it has a lag in acceleration SOMETIMES when moving and coasting slow in traffic and then pouncing on the accelerator to change lanes, the accelerator is flat like its not getting fuel. It wouldn't do it when the dealer mechanic drove it.
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It stalls when approaching intersections, and sometimes in traffic, always can be restarted, have had battery changed, fuel system checks out. have left at the garage and they can never get it to stall, but it still does it and sometimes three or four times during the day. Have not been to dealer, am frustrated and afraid of getting in accident. What might be causing this?
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So my 11' F350 is over heating when the engine RPM's are below about 1300 whether the truck is moving or not. If I let it idle for 2-5 minutes I can watch the temp gauge go to red and an engine over temp message appears. I noticed that if I rev the engine to > 1300 RPM it cools back down.
This appears to be a water pump going bad, any other thoughts? Are there instructions for changing the water pump here on the forum?
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MY 2011 Sonata has 84K miles. Last couple of months, I've noticed it engine jerks / hesitates / stalls when going from 40 mph to 60 mph. Once it reaches 60 mph I can go 70mph or higher without any problem. I've made several visits to dealership without any success. First, they diagnosed as bad oxygen sensor and bad spark plugs. The problem did not go away after replacing both. According to them it does not give any error code. Now they're asking to perform fuel cleaning service. I feel they're shooting in the dark. Does it sounds like problem with the automatic transmission i.e problem shifting into higher gear.
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My husband I purchased a 2012 Subaru Outback May 2012, we notice a hesitation when we first drove it and couple weeks later it started stalling out, now it stalls about every other day, we have noticed that ours is after a 15 to 20 minute stop and go traffic and then when your able to drive at normal speeds without stopping, and then stop it stalls out, we have rough idle and transmission acts like it is trying to shift but I know this isnt possible with a CVT transmission.
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Last Thursday I was coming home from work and the first time I came to a stop the R32 began to buck just as I gave it a little gas. Tried stopping and starting it but it continued to do it the rest of the trip home. Fast forward to this morning (first time we've driven it since) and it completely stalled on my wife on her way to work. She managed to get it started and get it home. I drove it around the block and sure enough when it comes to a stop after moving it stalls. I was able to consistently get it to stall just by getting it moving and then coming to a stop. I scanned it for codes last night and got a couple of different codes. Ignore the photo-sensor one - I am fixing that just need to find what I did with it.
Note the address 17 stuff - 2 codes to do with failure of the fuel sending unit. Could this possibly cause the car to stall out?
Also, address 16 (steering wheel) - RossTech seems to think these codes mean a faulty ignition switch.
I've never done data logging before but I was able to capture one of the stalls with VCDS. What columns would be useful to see and troubleshoot?
Here's the link to the log
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ......
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I have a 2005 VW jetta 2.0 engine 5 speed. Just replaced right control arm spark plugs wires and coil pack. I had a misfire only when it rained and it got rid of it! Driving home in stop and go traffic and My car stalls out a hear a bang and my clutch pedal drops to the floor. I had noticed some fluid loss but nothing was low I checked everything before I left work. I finally get it towed but I can not shift to first I can shift to 2 3 4 5 and reverse. I was in first when it stalled out during stop and go traffic while it was in first gear and i had the clutch pressed in. Everything Ive google says it is more than likely the Slave cylinder that is right below the air box. I found some that said it could be the release bearing in the gearbox for the tranny...
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I went to a holiday light show event with friends, where you drive through about a mile of light displays at a few MPH, but there were long lines to wait to even get in, so the car went from freeway driving to being stopped and occasionally creeping forward a bit, then stop and go slow once in the exhibit, all told probably 1-1/2 hours like this. The air temperature was in the mid-20's F. To my great surprise, my heat gauge went to the top of the scale and I got a red dash light. I did not see any coolant steam from under the hood but I found I needed to add to the tank today, it was on the add line.
It certainly looks like the low speed fan never came on. I was looking through the forums and someone said the low speed fan is supposed to be made to run by the engine temperature reaching a certain point, is this a computer function or a mechanical switch? I also understand that A/C operation makes the fan run at high speed. I will probably let the dealer diagnose this, what happened here? Was it a mistake to keep going and allow the engine to stay hot even at idle? One more thing, as soon as I got back on the road, the temperature went right back to normal.
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I have a 2013 Azera. Occasionally, when I accelerate getting into traffic on a highway, the vehicle seems to die down. After I take my foot off the accelerator and accelerate again, the car acts normally. This has occurred several times. I brought it into the dealer twice and they could not find any problem. This is a serious issue, sinc the car could be rammed by oncoming traffic.
I looked at other problem forums, and found a similar problem listed for a Genesis. See quote here: I've just bought my new 2012 Genesis sedan two months ago and have a very annoying hesitation problem when I'm going a under 5 miles/hour then try to accelerate. Nothing happens when I step on the gas for 1-2 seconds. Almost got me into an accident last week trying to pull into traffic. Took it to the dealer and they claim they could not duplicate the problem. That night, leaving the dealer it happened twice!
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About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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My Sonata suddenly started having front right brake sticking issue. It will happen only after an extended distance of frequent drive & stop. Something like Houston daily ride. So, after the traffic jam mysteriously clear and you can get some speed, starting at 40MPH a high grinding noise from the front (Ceramic brake pads) and the car feels very heavy. The sticking phenomenon will disappear if you wait a little with avoiding using the brakes.
I am going to check it today. So far I know that the sliding pins are not the issue. I recently cleaned them and lubricated them. The front right brake will get hot while the left are just in normal temperature. The brake pedal is getting higher while the sticking is about to happen and happening.
My first guess is the Flexible brake hose. Or maybe a bad caliper. I think if the master cylinder was the issue, I might have more than one sticking brake wheel. I don't know how common it is to have a bad ABS unit causing this issue. It feels really like a build up pressure caused by a valve effect of interior deteriorated brake hose.
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Yesterday in the pouring rain the low pressure tire gauge in my 2014 Sonata lit up in the middle of traffic. I drove to the nearest gas station and checked the pressure of all 4 tires, even though the diagram on the dashboard pointed to only one tire. Filled and checked all the tires again (still in the pouring rain) and drove off, only to find that the low pressure light was still on.
I was told by a mechanic-friend that I should bring it in for service and have the sensor reset. I didn't have this problem with my 2011 Elantra. Maybe if I just kick the dashboard it will reset the sensor...
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I have a 95 F150 4x4 reg cab long box with a 302 V8 and dual tanks... I was driving around yesterday when my truck started to lung and then the motor stalled... when I stopped moving I tried starting the truck and it started with no problem, so as i kept on my way, about 5 minutes later the same thing happened and it stalled again, (I have an automatic by the way). but this time before it stopped moving i pump the gas a few times and it fired back up and then stalled again... i switched from my front take to by back maybe thinking it could me my fuel pump in the tank but it did the same thing again about same time later... Would it be my fuel filter on the frame (like in line fuel filter) or why is it doing that? its EFI by the way.
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My 2011 ES350 has 49k miles on it (just got it last week).
I just noticed that when moving slowly (with and without accelerating) I can hear a slight whistle sound that resembles a bird chirp coming from what I think is a wheel.
My dad can't hear the sound (I'm thinking the frequency is too high for his ears) but it is definitely there and I can hear it clearly.
The sound comes and goes but something is not right. Wonder what it is?
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So today I got in the car and started to drive off and noticed a squeal coming from the front passenger tire while the vehicle is moving forward. This is the first time I've heard this noise and it is very annoying and loud.
Details on the car:
2011 Sonata Limited (not turbo)
Roughly 34700
I purchased it used with 28K on it in May of this year
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So for a couple months now, my ride has been making some weird noises.
When I start the car up after anything longer than a couple hours of use, it sounds as if I have a piece of loose metal banging/moving around. I hear it sporadically on shifting through the gears, and when I'm at a stop.
Car has been in to the dealer three times, and I took the foreman on a test drive...of course it wouldn't make the sound at all.
I took a look under the hood today and noticed that the coolant level is low...filling it back up tomorrow. That got me thinking about the transmission fluid....I looked and looked, and can't find the transmission dipstick anywhere.
Any clue where I can find some way to check the level?
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2011 F250 6.7L Powerstroke, automatic tranny, Electric Locking Diff
When I engage the On the Fly 4WD switch the indicator panel says "shift to 4x4H in Progress" and everything seems fine but if I am not moving forward when I shift the 4WD doesn't engage. The engine revs up but nothing happens. When I release the accelerator the transfer case bangs like it is going to rip out of the truck. In reverse it is even worse. I am lucky that I didn't gun it or I could have done allot of potential damage. All my other Ford 4WD vehicles engage immediately from a full stopped position. This is quite of troublesome because if you have to shift when your stuck in the mud, your still stuck. If I shift while moving forward it works just fine.
My question is: Does this particular model (2011 F250 6.7L Powerstroke with an automatic tranny) have to be moving forward in order for the 4WD to engage?
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The wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
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