Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F350 Overheating When Engine RPMs Below 1300 Whether Truck Is Moving Or Not


Jul 28, 2015

So my 11' F350 is over heating when the engine RPM's are below about 1300 whether the truck is moving or not. If I let it idle for 2-5 minutes I can watch the temp gauge go to red and an engine over temp message appears. I noticed that if I rev the engine to > 1300 RPM it cools back down.

This appears to be a water pump going bad, any other thoughts? Are there instructions for changing the water pump here on the forum?

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Antifreeze Leak At 1300 Miles?

2011 Super Duty, SB, 6.7, Lariat, SuperCab, FX4 Undercover hard bed cover, Ford bed mat, and mud flaps.Traded a 2003 Expedition with 100k miles on it. It was time for a new tow vehicle, I tow a 30 foot travel trailer.(7000 to 8000lbs) The dealer offered me a deal at invoice plus all of Ford's incentives, so I couldn't refuse.

I have about 1300 miles on it and it runs fine. I have been noticing a wet spot under the right front of the truck, checking today it looks like anti freeze leaking from above the air condition pump. It makes about a 3 inch diameter wet spot, the fluid recovery bottles are still at the correct cold coolant level. I couldn't get my hand in that space to find where it is leaking from.

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I updated my tuner and returned the truck to a performance tune but this dashboard code will not go away. My truck isn't reading any codes and there's no other indication lights on. The truck has Normal RPM readings but 0 throttle response. No power at all...

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2011 Ford f350 6.7 diesel ... Is this a problem we need to have fixed?

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2011 Ford f350 6.7 diesel .... Is this a problem we need to have fixed...

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I am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.

As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,

I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.

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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Zero Flow At Idle And Dribble At About 1300 RPMs And Increase

I just flushed my coolant system and installed a red ELC, Riffraff billet thermo housing, Ford thermostat, new hoses and Riffraff coolant filter. When I first started the truck and was waiting for the thermostat to open I notice at idle the flow from the coolant filter into the Degas bottle was a lot.

Fast forward a week and about 75 miles I have zero flow at idle and it will start to dribble at about 1300 RPM's and increase from there. It seems the flow would not be dependent of the thermostat being open since the connection is below it. I am wondering if my Donaldson filter is already full?

I used a flusher that uses air and water, after flushing I used air to blow to tap water out. How fast have you guys seen one fill up? I ordered 2 extra but just do not want to waste the first one

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Just bought 2 new F-350 with 6.7s for a service truck and feed truck. I have a 2011 6.7 so pretty familiar with it. I noticed both these new trucks shift at a lot lower RPMs. At times if going from pasture to pasture I have noticed the tach at 900 rpm in 6th gear. My 2011 doesn't do that, it shifts at a higher rpm. Both of the trucks have been deleted, and I have a SCTx4 tuner in each truck and have both tuned to the lowest setting, Tow 40HP. Is this a fuel economy thing?

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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.

Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.

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A little background, this is an 04, f-350. It sis not start a week ago so I charged the batteries and it started, started fine this morning, (had not driven it for the week) Drove it to work, 35 miles, parked it, and it will not start.

I downloaded Torque and got a few numbers,

HPOP 1900 FMP 48V (repaired last summer) and FVP 11.5V.

Ran out of battery to surf more and look, so I am trying to figure out the app, and the issue with the truck. It seems to turn over good, until I ran the battery down, and the GP cycles normally, and the injector buzz seems good. Temp is in the 50's...

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When I installed the new Gpcm the truck started fine and no codes came up so I thought all was good till I went to start the truck the next day and the batteries were dead. I thought I possibly left something on so i started charging the batteries but noticed they seemed to have a draw on them. I put my hand on the new Gpcm and it was very warm with the key off so I have the batteries disconnected till I can figure this out.

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New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..

Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.

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I have a 2004 Ford F350 6.0. It is leaking diesel from the front of the engine to the ground. I have a video of this and pictures as well but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. What I can do??Puddle after about 20 min of running.

Dripping from here, left of hose....

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