I have a 2000 Corolla CE (4-spd auto) and today had to merge in fast moving traffic....the engine hit about 4000rpm for about 2 seconds or so and then dropped back down to 2800 and eventually 2300.
Not sure what the redline is for the 2000 corolla, but I'm guessing that hitting it especially when under load is bad even for a few seconds?
When I took my new used car to the mechanic, complaining how there must be an oil leak cause well by now 9 bottles of oil in 7 weeks time have been put in, the mechanic told me the engine is burning the oil too fast. He said something about the piston, but I got all confused. He also said that the only way to fix this is to replace the engine, but he recommended not to cause it would cost more than the car is worth. This is a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Why this is happening and what i should do about it.
View 8 RepliesMy corolla odometer is adding miles faster than usual all of a sudden. getting about 1.4 miles instead of just one mile. the car has 250,000 miles on it now... What can I do to adjust it, replace it, or what?
Also, when should rear brake drums be replaced. My bearings are bad so should I replace the drums too?
My engine every now and then makes a lot of noise at startup for about 5 to 8 seconds at that same time the idle is very rough seems as if it is running on 2 or 3 cylinders instead of 4 after that it runs perfectly and is very quiet the car has almost 198000 miles on it
View 1 Replies2011 BMW 335i.
Driving 40mph, smoothly at consistent speed, in middle lane of 3 lane road during morning rush hour, no stops or turns. I had been driving for about 10-15 minutes after car had been in garage the night before. Attempted small acceleration, car did not respond, engine had turned off unclear if before or at time of attempted acceleration. Power steering was off. I put on my hazards, slowly drifted to stop, put car in park, attempted restart, first attempt failed, waited 15 seconds and second attempt successful.
For next 3 hours, the engine had a rhythmic grinding sound which then stopped. Fuel tank had been filled the day before and was not near empty. Took to dealer, they have not been able to replicate event or find anything to fix. They replaced camshaft bolts because of a recall but reported nothing faulty with the originals. They are saying there is nothing wrong with the car. Do I take it back and risk the same thing happening or buy a new car? The car has 44,000 miles.
I have a 2006 Prius with about 215K miles on it that has started with a new symptom. When stopped at a traffic light, the engine will come on and idle fast, then turn off again. It continues to do this for a few seconds then stops. It will not do it again for a few days then it will repeat the problem.
View 19 RepliesThis car was running fine until my daughter brought it to a reputable tire shop to have new tires put on and an alignment done. The day after this was done, she started having issues with the car not wanting to move when it is in drive. It would eventually take off, but very reluctantly, and once she got going down the road it would be fine. After a couple days like this, it just wouldn't go at all in drive unless someone was pushing it. It goes fine in reverse.
The transmission fluid level had been recently checked, and was fine. Now when this problem cropped up and it was checked, the fluid was gone! We don't notice anything on the ground where it has been parked.
I have a 2000 Corolla CE 4-spd auto and I've asked this question from several mechanics and they all say they same: leave it in drive.
My issue is that during my rush hour commute, I'm in a lot of bumper to bumper traffic and the maximum speed is 15mph with a lot of stops. During this time, my transmission is literally switching from 1st to 2nd and then downshifting again hundreds of times. Isn't it better to just keep it in 1st gear? The solenoids are constantly firing and gears are switching causing more wear/tear. It's the same as putting the gear in 1st when going down hill so why do mechanics not recommend this?
I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
I have a 98 Toyota corolla and every time I am moving and then I step on the brakes, the steering wheel starts to vibrate. I have changed the rotors, the break pads, the calipers and even changed the brake master cylinder...but still vibrates when I step on the brake pedal and I have done wheel alignment and balancing...
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
View 2 RepliesWhile driving our 1990 toyota corolla (3-speed automatic transmission) on the freeway recently, the car gave a slight jerk, at which point my husband looked at the gas gauge and noticed it was well below "E".. Oops. fortunately, there was an exit right there with a gas station. Filled up and we were off toward the next on-ramp. Got to about 35-40 mph, and all of a sudden the car literally just stopped moving forward after violently jerking back and forth several times. We then tried to put in neutral and push it to the side, but it wouldn't even do that. Everything was locked up, seized solid. Somehow we managed to get it to the side.
The flatbed tow truck took us home, and all we could do by that point was move a foot or two in reverse after it dropped us off... fast forward... After several days/weeks of it sitting around we can now actually drive it forward! reverse! but we haven't taken it out of the driveway to go more than 5 mph.. We had seen some fluid leaking prior to this incident, but could NOT figure out where it was coming from despite checking obvious fluids meticulously every couple of days. A friend said it might have been the diff fluid? We'd like to fix the car, but to repair a tranny on this old car (although it only has 67K miles!!!) is too expensive. My husband wants to make it a weekend project.
While driving my toyota corolla 2006, I smelled a burning smell and saw a small amount of smoke for about 30 seconds coming out right by the windshield wiper, this happened twice within an hour period.What could this be?
View 4 RepliesMy sister was driving my '02 Corolla (120K miles) this morning when the RPM's started to fluctuate between 1500-2500 for a few seconds. Did it on the highway (60 mph) and then again on a city street (45 MPH). Then back to normal. Had a tune up etc less than 2 months ago.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 toyota corolla. For the past year I have not been able to pump a full tank of gas without the pump automatically shutting off. It has progressed to the point where I have to stand at the pump and continually restart the pump as it clicks off over and over and over.
View 7 RepliesMy 2006 Toyota Corolla will suddenly decelerate for a period of 3 to 5 seconds. No warning lights come on and the engine does not cut out. This has been happening sporadically for about 2 years. It will occur 2 ot 3 times in a day of driving. The dealership says they cannot diagnose the problem since they can't duplicate it. The ECM was replaced several months ago. The car has 120000 miles on it. I just got a new battery and transmission fluid.
View 15 RepliesMy roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Corolla CE manual transmission with 431,000 (not a typo) miles on it. About 7 weeks ago I noticed that when I turn on my high-beams after driving for awhile, the car dies for a few seconds. All lights go out, radio stops, engine stops and then it starts up again as if nothing happened. It will just do it once in about a half-hour time frame. I can switch the high-beams on and off repeatedly afterwards and it doesn't do it again. I have to drive for about a half-hour before it will do it again. I usually hear a slight pop sound when it does it.
A month later I noticed that if I parked it after driving for awhile, like at a gas pump, and get back in it, it acts as if the battery is dead for a few seconds. If I step on the clutch or open and close the driver door, the car comes back on. It appears that the battery was disconnected. The CD pops out of the player and all the radio station settings are gone. One morning last week I got in, and it had happened during the night. The CD was out, station settings gone, and the clock was 6.5 hours off.
I have had the car to a Toyota repair center 3 times. They have checked fuses, battery, battery cables, grounds, alternator, tensioner, looked for rodent nests, squirrels and I don't know what-all, etc. They can't find what is wrong. I am scared to drive it, but I depend on it. I commute 200 miles/day. I won't leave anything important in the car because I am afraid it will catch fire. I am scared I am going to have a wreck, too, with no lights and no power steering suddenly.
Turning the engine off and on in stop and go traffic saves gas but what does it do for the life of battery and starter?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Prius. The other day I was stuck in a traffic jam - under 5 mph for at least 30 minutes.....my engine started knocking/vibrating...once out of the jam, it felt like the engine was "missing"....I took it to the Toyota dealer in town and they changed the spark plugs and cleaned the area...the car runs a little better but I was in a funeral procession yesterday and after about 15 minutes the car was knocking again. What the problem could be? The mileage on the car is 125,000 (I drive a lot!)...
View 3 RepliesI've noticed that in the past week or so, whenever I'm stuck in traffic for a few minutes, the engine temp will slowly rise. it gets really bad if traffic is crawling; the temp has reached that 2nd highest line before the red area.
Whenever I get going again and hit the gas, the temp drops. What it is?
Car is currently at 86k miles. I don't believe the water pump has been replaced yet.