Toyota :: Thumping Noise Goes Fast Or Slow Depending On How Fast Whipping Around
Dec 29, 2013
My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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I was driving my son to Mygym this morning and everything was completely normal, but when I got onto the highway for the last 5 minutes of the drive my car started making a loud fast rhythmic thumping sound. I thought it was my tire and slowed down to stop... and then in stopped. So I went a little faster and as soon as I hit 50, it started again. I slowed down and drove the rest of the way to my sons class and looked at my tires and they looked fine to me (I have no idea what a tire should look like, but I can tell if one is very flat... I think). I also looked under the car for any obvious debris or whatever and didn't see anything.
We had our class and when I got back on the highway and accelerated to 50, it started back up again, so I slowly drove to our exit. By the time we were nearly home I wasn't even thinking about the problem anymore, but in the 45 zone near our home it started thumping again... sure enough, I was going 50. I am also wondering if it is safe to drive my car as long as I stay under 50? I have no other means of transportation and we need to go out pretty often (daily) for classes and therapies for my son.
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I will try my best to describe the problem:When the car sits for quite a few hours it basically will try to fire up , but can take 4,5,6 seconds before it will actually start. It is a fast turn over just as if your car was going to start normally, but it just takes time. This is not a slow turn over as in a battery problem, or a very cold weather thick oil problem.After the car starts the initial time, you can turn it off and start it and it fires right up.
When I turn the key to the on position, I can hear the Fuel Pump. I have tried doing this a few times in a row, but it doesn't work for the initial start.
This has been going on for about 8 months, and I have basically ignored the problem. The last few starts the same issue persisted except instead of firing up after 4,5,6 seconds it just shuts off. After this I turn the key over and it still fires right up.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
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Three position switch (off/slow/fast) not working. Bought a new switch and have same problem. The SWITCH OFF position gives very slow wiper movement. The SWITCH SLOW and SWITCH FAST position work OK. The only way I can turn off wipers is to high-center the switch between positions. But it won't stay high-centered very long. Is this a wiper motor problem?
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My 2nd gen 2007 Prius started to show a strange behavior today and I don't find any answer to it. While driving without any cars close, with all seat belts closed and nothing on the passenger seat I started to hear slow paced beeps (approx. 20) then fast paced beeps. When I switch off the car and started it again I got the same beeps after approx. 30 seconds. I never got any visual warning and the OBD reader doesn't show any error code.
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I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
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I have toyota camry 2009. I have almost no issues besides when I'm trying accelerate to getting on highway and tap on acceleration pedal sometimes it takes up to 5 sec to start accelerate:as soon your tap on pedal , it kind of thinking for 2-3 sec then goes to lower gear and only then start accelerate. Is it normal behavior for the toyota's car? I heard toyota's not really maneuverable cars or it just mine like this? I'm worry in traffic even overtake cars in traffic,otherwise can be accident.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with 110,000 miles that is burning oil too fast. A farm mechanic told me I should put thicker oil in it- straight SAE 30. It is a 4 cyl, 2.4 L Automatic. I had a oil and filter change less than 2 months ago, have driven maybe 2,000 miles. The oil is below the first dot. The manufacturer says to put 5W 20 oil in. I live in central North Carolina, so below freezing temperatures aren’t an issue. Last oil and filter change, they checked for leaks and they said it was clean underneath with none. Also, is it possible the car is burning the oil fast because I live in a warmer climate and I’m using the thinner oil? Is it ok to put the thicker straight SAE 30 oil in it? If yes, can I add it to what’s already there (5w 20)?
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When I took my new used car to the mechanic, complaining how there must be an oil leak cause well by now 9 bottles of oil in 7 weeks time have been put in, the mechanic told me the engine is burning the oil too fast. He said something about the piston, but I got all confused. He also said that the only way to fix this is to replace the engine, but he recommended not to cause it would cost more than the car is worth. This is a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Why this is happening and what i should do about it.
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Tonight our 2002 Toyota Sienna (automatic transmission) was in drive, but stopped (foot on brake) during a traffic jam. Traffic picked up and the driver moved his foot from brake to gas. The car went into reverse at a high speed. The brake did not work. The driver quickly changed gears to park.
1. What is (are) the problems resulting in this situation?
2. Has additional damage been done by switching into park?
3. Is it safe to drive to the repair shop?
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE (4-spd auto) and today had to merge in fast moving traffic....the engine hit about 4000rpm for about 2 seconds or so and then dropped back down to 2800 and eventually 2300.
Not sure what the redline is for the 2000 corolla, but I'm guessing that hitting it especially when under load is bad even for a few seconds?
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So i just recently purchased my 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 about a month ago. At first everything is great which it STILL is but lately I've discovered that I'm hearing a weird & SERIOUSLY IRRITATING noise/sound/rattle! Every time I drive between 10mph-40mph and it gets rapidly fast as I increase speed.. thats the RATTLE noise. I did my research and it said it can be a loose bolt or a loose heat shield underneath but I'd like some advice from Toyota Nation. Also when i make a slight turn I hear a weird clunking or some weird unexplainable noise. All in all this car is awesome .. smooth/FAST/comfy seats for me/agile/great on gas compared to my 2011 Camry 4 cylinder I had ..
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This morning I went thru a known rough patch on the road and was applying light pressure on the brakes as usual (EV doing about 20 mph). Once the wheels started bumping, a loss of deceleration occurred as expected but what I did not expect was a fairly fast clicking sound (about 30Hz). I *believe* it sounded like the click that is heard when the traction battery is engaged in READY mode, but I'm not completely sure. Where it came from since I was using the A/C and rag chewing on the ham radio. The clicking subsided once I lifted the foot from the brake pedal and reapplied the brakes. No indicator lights came on and the car continued behaving normally.
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So I bought this car last year at an auction from a rental company. If my ac is on in the car it makes a big difference in the idle noise. It is like a fast clicking.
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About 2 months ago i was driving and heard a clicking noise that would increase the faster i drove, i 1st thought it was something in the tire. after checking my right front tire and saw nothing was there for some reason i figured it was the brake.....so my personal mechanic the next day took off the wheel i told me i had to replace the braking kit because one of the pins was rubbing on the rotor, in the mean time he pulled it to try to realign it into place.....after he did that i realized the steering wheel shuddering when braking at highway speeds....figuring since i needed the braking kit that when replaced, this new problem would b solved.....braking kit replaced problem still there....
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My tensioner pulley is already shaking but when the ac clutch is engaged the tensioner starts to shake even more and it starts to make a clunking noise extremely loud and fast. I also noticed that the crank pulley is shaking quite a bit too so I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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My '03 passat w8 just started making a lot of noise which sounds like the engine fan is running very fast and blowing like mad even though my car is not warm. It started 3 nights ago and sounds like a street sweeper, which is what I thought it was until I looked around and saw there was no street sweeper to be found. When I turn the car off the noise winds down and disappears with the fan still running just making the normal amount of fan noise so I don't think the problem is the actual fan.
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I have a 2003 santa fe with a 2.7 and it is 4wd.
It sounds loud during the morning and at idle almost like a diesel loud. It has a horrible timing climbing hills to the point where you can mash the peddle to the floor and almost redline the transmission from 4-5k rpm when redline starts at 6.
It has the CEL on and codes as a p044 and a p0112. I have a OEM oil filter in it and am running synthetic but it still has issues.
When accelerating fast it makes the valve clattering noise and once it catches up to speed like when it reaches the top of the hill it makes the clattering valve noise.
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About a month and a half ago my Elantra while accelerating starting to make a fast ticking noise that was noticeable from usual with the radio and Air off but not terribly loud. The car still seemed to run the same.
So I took the car into the Dealer for my usual oil change and the recall for the automatic transmission and had them check it out. I was expecting nothing major. Turns out the service manager said a control armed failed as well as a piston and the damage was done. The will have to replace the entire top half of the engine at least and check the lower parts while taking it a part. They let me drive off and said to bring it back on Tuesday. Said he will drive to the rental car place and set me up in a rental while they fix it. Estimated to take 4-5 days while further checking into it.
It was noted as a "knock" in the upper part of the engine on the form I was handed after the car was checked out. They also said they would not bother doing an oil change on the car because of this issue. The car has a little over 27K miles on it.
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Every time I try to start my 95 Honda Accord, there is a fast clicking sound and the car will not start. All of the interior lights come on, and the car is full of gas, so I'm not quite sure what the problem might be. My car did start before we were hit with all of this snow in MA, but now it's not.Why my car will not start?
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