Three position switch (off/slow/fast) not working. Bought a new switch and have same problem. The SWITCH OFF position gives very slow wiper movement. The SWITCH SLOW and SWITCH FAST position work OK. The only way I can turn off wipers is to high-center the switch between positions. But it won't stay high-centered very long. Is this a wiper motor problem?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 f250 with 6.4. Was sitting my truck with key on and motor off listening to radio on lunch and my wipers came on by themselves. Switch was in off position and we're in slow speed. If I turn switch they wouldn't change speed til high position. Turned key off and back on and they came on still. Pulled 30 amp fuse in battery junction box to shut them off.
View 3 Replies1988 Bronco II 2.9L Issues:
- When I turn off the wiper switch the wipers immediately stop in place, they do not continue to their normal 'down' position.
- The switch's adjuster to slow the wipers isn't working, only the low and high settings work.
What I've done so far:
- Replaced wiper switch with used from spare parts.
- Replaced wiper switch with new from spare parts.
- Replaced wiper motor with remanufactured from Autozone.
- Thoroughly cleaned wiper motor ground terminals.
- Replaced interval wiper governor with used from spare parts.
The problem occurred after the truck sat in my garage for 6 months while I removed and reinstalled the engine to replace some gaskets & seals.
My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
View 7 RepliesWell I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
View 7 RepliesThis car's windows are not working. 3 of the window motors make a running sound when the levers are pressed, but the window doesn't move. Is this an expensive item to fix? Do you think the window is just off the track? Where is the best place to take it to be fixed?
View 4 RepliesThis is in reply to a question I just heard on the radio show from Stash (sp?) I believe. He has a jetta and the there is a fast clicking coming from the turn signal after it is used and returns to the "neutral" position. I have a GTI of similar vintage and replacing the blinker did not work. What does work is even cheaper! Get some CRC electronics cleaner from the local auto store and spray out inside of the turn signal switch. What happens is, over the years the lube inside of the switch wears away, allowing the contacts to wear against each other, creating little metal debris that ends up completing the circuit. The CRC cleaner dissolves all of the gunk and gives the necessary clearance inside the switch to allow it to function properly.
View 1 RepliesNone of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
I will try my best to describe the problem:When the car sits for quite a few hours it basically will try to fire up , but can take 4,5,6 seconds before it will actually start. It is a fast turn over just as if your car was going to start normally, but it just takes time. This is not a slow turn over as in a battery problem, or a very cold weather thick oil problem.After the car starts the initial time, you can turn it off and start it and it fires right up.
When I turn the key to the on position, I can hear the Fuel Pump. I have tried doing this a few times in a row, but it doesn't work for the initial start.
This has been going on for about 8 months, and I have basically ignored the problem. The last few starts the same issue persisted except instead of firing up after 4,5,6 seconds it just shuts off. After this I turn the key over and it still fires right up.
I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
View 4 Replies2002 F150 XL... My heat & AC work fine, but the only position the fan selector switch will actually blow any air is on high. Bought an OEM replacement switch and installed it but the issue still exists.
View 4 Replies2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
I made a big mistake, I was cleaning out my truck and accidentally switched my 4 wheel drive to the 4 low position. Not knowing this I started the truck and just drove it all day. Then I noticed my mistake and now the truck will not shift into either 4 high or 4 low!
The truck drives just fine, I feel no pull when I turn to the left or right so it seems that it never did any shifting into 4 high or 4 low, so I'm looking for recommendations on maybe how to fix?
First time towing a twin axle caravan with the Santa fe. towed 250 miles without any problems but on the final long uphill stretch the esp light came on. When the engine is stopped and re-started it goes out but comes back on within a mile. Also when the caravan is plugged into the electrical socket the indicators flash at normal speed but unplug it and they flash very quickly. I have read a lot on the foot brake switch being a problem and sometimes it causes the esp light to come on.
View 2 RepliesMy 2nd gen 2007 Prius started to show a strange behavior today and I don't find any answer to it. While driving without any cars close, with all seat belts closed and nothing on the passenger seat I started to hear slow paced beeps (approx. 20) then fast paced beeps. When I switch off the car and started it again I got the same beeps after approx. 30 seconds. I never got any visual warning and the OBD reader doesn't show any error code.
View 2 RepliesIs it ok to keep my front hubs locked in and the switch in the 2wd position for everyday driving? Only reason I do it is because in auto it doesn't always go into 4wd.
View 11 RepliesI have an '03 F250 and the second position of the blower switch doesn't work. The first, third, and fourth are all fine.
I bought a Motorcraft YH-1670 blower switch, but can't figure out where it's located?
I looked behind the glove box, but didn't see it there. I did not remove the screws to the cover behind the glove box because I wanted to first confirm where the switch is located.
I'm getting a random 'no start' fault which I think is related to a clutch position switch. The dealer tells me the clutch pivot bushing and master cylinder push rod are worn out, which is causing the switch not to close when the clutch pedal is depressed.
1993 F-350 7.3L Diesel 5 Spd 4x4, Std Cab, 8 Box.
When I position the switch into 4x4 High or 4x4 Low the dash lights do not come on. Also, I have a vacuum leak at both hubs.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ESOF solenoid (or whatever it's called, the box on the fender where the vacuum lines originate) and I don't have any leaks in the lines. I put the Mighty Vac straight to the back of the hubs and I definitely have leaks at both hubs.
So, why am I not getting the light on the dash, and why do I have leaks at the hubs? FWIW, I replaced both wheel hub assemblies in March, and everything worked fine at that time. I'm hoping the yellow o-rings are still good. Is there a chance I lost torque on the four bolts behind the hubs causing a failed seal? Is there a seal on the outside of the hubs that could've failed?
I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
View 13 RepliesWell now I have to replace the multi function switch due to moving my steering wheel and the headlights sometimes working and turning signals not working. I saw a great video on youtube about changing a Multi Function Switch and it shows where the air bag needs to be removed. I was hoping that since my truck is an older 1997 F250 LD I wouldn't have to remove the airbag. Is there a way to do this w/out messing with the airbag on the 1997?
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