Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Overheated At Idle In Stop And Go Traffic
Dec 20, 2015
I went to a holiday light show event with friends, where you drive through about a mile of light displays at a few MPH, but there were long lines to wait to even get in, so the car went from freeway driving to being stopped and occasionally creeping forward a bit, then stop and go slow once in the exhibit, all told probably 1-1/2 hours like this. The air temperature was in the mid-20's F. To my great surprise, my heat gauge went to the top of the scale and I got a red dash light. I did not see any coolant steam from under the hood but I found I needed to add to the tank today, it was on the add line.
It certainly looks like the low speed fan never came on. I was looking through the forums and someone said the low speed fan is supposed to be made to run by the engine temperature reaching a certain point, is this a computer function or a mechanical switch? I also understand that A/C operation makes the fan run at high speed. I will probably let the dealer diagnose this, what happened here? Was it a mistake to keep going and allow the engine to stay hot even at idle? One more thing, as soon as I got back on the road, the temperature went right back to normal.
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My Sonata suddenly started having front right brake sticking issue. It will happen only after an extended distance of frequent drive & stop. Something like Houston daily ride. So, after the traffic jam mysteriously clear and you can get some speed, starting at 40MPH a high grinding noise from the front (Ceramic brake pads) and the car feels very heavy. The sticking phenomenon will disappear if you wait a little with avoiding using the brakes.
I am going to check it today. So far I know that the sliding pins are not the issue. I recently cleaned them and lubricated them. The front right brake will get hot while the left are just in normal temperature. The brake pedal is getting higher while the sticking is about to happen and happening.
My first guess is the Flexible brake hose. Or maybe a bad caliper. I think if the master cylinder was the issue, I might have more than one sticking brake wheel. I don't know how common it is to have a bad ABS unit causing this issue. It feels really like a build up pressure caused by a valve effect of interior deteriorated brake hose.
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What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
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About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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Yesterday in the pouring rain the low pressure tire gauge in my 2014 Sonata lit up in the middle of traffic. I drove to the nearest gas station and checked the pressure of all 4 tires, even though the diagram on the dashboard pointed to only one tire. Filled and checked all the tires again (still in the pouring rain) and drove off, only to find that the low pressure light was still on.
I was told by a mechanic-friend that I should bring it in for service and have the sensor reset. I didn't have this problem with my 2011 Elantra. Maybe if I just kick the dashboard it will reset the sensor...
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I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
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A few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
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I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
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My sonata 2011 yf suddenly engine shut down in 20 - 30 meters after start or stop...
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I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
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I have a 2011 Sonata and had the front pads and rotors changed a few months ago. Started to hear this squeaking noise when starting up from a stop (between ~5-15 mph). Check out the audio/video here...this is me basically holding my cellphone out of the driver side window: [URL] ....
It occurs intermittently and sometimes doesn't occur at all. The more the car is warmed up, the more often it seems to occur. Techs at Hyundai couldn't figure it out. They made me replace the rotors and pads with OEM parts and surprise, surprise, the same exact noise is occurring. I don't see how it can be wheel bearings...there is no rumbling noise or roughness at all. But the squeaking is killing me.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and have issues where my A/C won't cool properly and gives off a funky smell when I'm at a stop. Then it continues cooling when I drive at speeds.
I am going to the dealership for a steering clicking noise as well and was wondering is it worth telling them this problem too or should I go to an independent shop? My car is at 99,000 miles and I know A/C isn't part of powertrain.
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2011, 2.0T, with 58,000 miles, and everything's perfect, nothing but synthetic oil changes and premium fuel. But, Over the last month, I get a new vibration when I come to a complete stop, and stay in Drive. Once I shift to Neutral, it naturally goes away, and it shifts normally. I've never done anything to the Tranny.
The car has always been like this but this new vibration is bad, I can feel the pulsing in the brake pedal and you can hear it in the engine. What's making me take it to the Dealer is when my wife drove it, she said she noticed it, I said it must be bad.
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I'm new member and recently have bought 2011 sonata YF. I feel a little knock in gearbox handle when I brake and stop the car ( in D mode), and knock again when i release brake pedal. This knock can't be heard and just feel by hand. is it normal or failure?
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I have a 2011 sonata gls that seems to overheat every once in a while. it happened first after a 2 hour cruise on the insterstate (rally so i exceeded 120 and averaged +85mph) after we parked and we started up to go to the next stage i noticed my temp was at 2 o'clock (this is after the car had been sitting for 30min or so, off) and while sitting at a long red light it went all the way to right (hot) so i turned my a/c off and eventually turned my car off to prevent damage (it returned to normal after a minute of interstate driving). Since then it seems to overheat when idling after driving it hard.
I noticed my radiator fan doesn't turn on normally but haven't checked it when the engine was above normal temp, when should our fans turn on (so i can check if it doesn't work)? I have 1200 miles left on warranty so I want to use it up if possible...
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When I'm idling my car at a stop, I notice a slight vibrating through the car... The vibration could also be felt through the steering wheel.
Not a major issue. Tried pushing car into neutral to see if it made a difference... Nothing.
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I have a 2012 sonata that has issues from day one. ?
New issue is: For a couple days now I've noticed a crackle noise when I break. It is only when I am coming to a complete stop that the noise happens, not the full time i actually have foot on break.
Not thinking it is the bearings. Thinking it may be something within my suspension.
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2013 Sonata A/C stop cooling. Is it cover under warranty? Started making strange noise under dash.
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I have had this happen the last couple times I use my car in the cold. It has been around 25-30 F and when I pull out of my driveway the first time/maybe second time I touch the brakes it forcefully stops and feels as though only the front brakes are engaging. As I drive the car that trip it has yet to happen and the brakes preform normally. I am not used to disk brakes and I am thinking it is maybe that? The only other thing I could think of is that the brakes need to warm up a bit and pressing them still cold illicit that jerked response. I have read through a number of threads on brakes and I cannot seem to find this happening.
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So I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata since May of 2013 and I've had few problems with it until now. For some reason, at seemingly completely random intervals, my cruise control will completely stop working while I'm driving. What exactly I mean by this is that I'll be driving with cruise control set and suddenly it kicks off and I have to continue by manually controlling the gas pedal. I am also completely unable to turn Cruise back on until I have shut off the car and turned it back on. There are also times where I'll have Cruise control "On" but not using it and suddenly the Cruise indicator light on the dash will disappear, I'll try to turn on Cruise at that point and it will not work. Again this is the case until I turn the car off and then back on again.
I have followed a couple guides on adjusting the wiring harness in the steering wheel, behind the air bag, to make sure it is not a loose connector issue, but this has not seemed to work. Another reason why I think this may be something more than just that is that I'm also having transmission issues that seem to correlate with the times that my car loses the ability to use Cruise Control. Everything is completely fine with the car, including the transmission, until the above mentioned issue occurs, at which point if I happen to be driving below about 50mph, or reach a point where I have to slow down below 50mph, my transmission begins to intermittently disengage and reengage fairly erratically. It has happened a couple times while cruising at around 65-70mph, but has acted the worst bellow 50mph.
To make things even MORE confusing, the transmission issues seem to correct themselves with a simple shut down and restart of the car, just like with the Cruise Control problem. I'm at a complete loss now. I don't want to deal with a dealership unless I absolutely have to.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 4,000 miles. Recently, I have noticed that when coming to a stop, I hear a light thump noise in the center console area near the gear shift lever. If I put my hand on the gear shifter, I can feel it move ever so slightly at the time of the noise. The noise is very repeatable. If I take my foot off the brake and start rolling and then I reapply the brake (either softly or hard) it will make the thump noise. It is not very loud and can be drowned out with loud music, but if listening to news, it is very noticeable and annoying in city traffic, where stops are very frequent. I put the car up on ramps and looked underneath and did not see anything noticeable. It will probably require the center console between the seats to be removed.
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