Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine Turns Over Strong But Car Not Starting
Sep 17, 2013
My wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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I was checking my oil the other the other day and it has a pretty strong smell of gas. The car has 2700 miles and still on the original oil. I drive about 20 miles to work one way and don't make a lot of short trips. I checked tho oil when the car was new and didn't notice the smell. Whats going on? Is this normal for a GDI engine? I will take the care in this week to talk to the service manager but wanted to get some input before i went in.
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So I have a weird situation. My Sonata GS with the 2.4 engine has trouble starting ONLY during cold weather (-2 or colder) if it's been sitting for a few hours. If the weather is warm, then it starts fine most of the time. The car tries to 'fire' for about 45 seconds before it does; and 'fires' with no hesitation at that point. The car runs fine, no hesitation or rough idle. I've cleaned the intake system to make sure it's not clogged or dirty, replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAP and throttle body. My battery died a few weeks ago, so I've even replaced that. What this could be? Everything I've researched or looked into would throw a code, or have symptoms while driving...yet it runs fine once it's started, and no codes/lights are showing. Don't want to just start swapping parts hoping to find the problem...
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I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
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I have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
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Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with the NAV package, and this morning when I started the car I found that I have no sound coming from my speakers. Stereo powers up just fine, all controls including nav and bluetooth seem to be functioning perfectly, and yet I am getting no audio.
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I have a '11 GLS sonata, 56000kms ... Over the last few weeks I've noticed a 'vibration' rubbing sound while I'm making a right turn at med speeds or higher. I thought I heard it on the left side but not sure. Only notice the sound while turning.
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On my 2013 GLS i went to adjust the column back to me as my girlfriend drove on saturday night (octoberfest ) and as i pulled it back out the car shut off. i pushed it back in a little and the car started fine and has until i tested the issue again this morning when i got to work. i moved it about half way out and the radio shutoff. moved it a little more and the whole car shut off. it will not start until i push it back in some.
I am thinking that a cannon plug or something is either too short or routed wrong or something to that effect as i have the ignition on the column instead of the push button.
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So...the trunk light will never turn off if the trunk is open? Just wondering, since a bottle of Shiner Bock broke in my trunk and i want to air it out. Yeah i don't feel like removing the bulb, i just wanted to know if there is a time limit or disable feature somehow.
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My wife has a 2013 Santa Fe. When she turns off her vehicle, her radio stays on until you open the door. To be honest that is how it works in most cars I have been in.
However it seems like in the Sonata 2013 it just turns off all together. Is this normal? Is there a feature to make it stay on until the door is opened?
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Looking for pictorial descriptions / videos on how to replace the CV axles on 2011-14 Sonata 2.4? Mine starts developing clicking noise under tight turns about 10k miles ago but the boots are absolutely fine. I just hope to buy some time on it before I can confidently replace those axles myself as I only have limited cash.
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Whenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate?it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting?at which time it acts normally for the rest of the day. The braking system is fine.
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Yesterday I took my car out, stopped at a gas station and the car wouldn't start. When trying to start it, everything inside would come on but it would just click. We were able to jump start it. After that I was able to start it 2 more times. the next time i tried to start it, it did the same thing, but the jump didn't work. We went and bought a new battery and it still isn't starting. It isn't clicking anymore though. It kinda hums when it tries to turn over. Does this seem like a starter issue?
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The light flashes then turns solid. I checked the pressure to find 32lbs in the tires. I pumped them back up to 36 front, 35 rear (per suggestions here to minimize steering wander).
The light remains on. Knowing the pressures were fine, I have driven it several days to see if the light goes out on its own. No dice.
While driving last week, the wife asked about this and we pressed the Blue Link connect button. The service rep who responded said she saw no pressure warning on her remote panel.
Over the weekend, I tried inflating the tires to 40psi, thinking that the higher pressure would reset the light and then I could lower the pressure to normal levels. That did not work, either.
So yesterday, I called the dealer and the service rep said the system warns of BOTH under pressure and over pressure. She suggested setting the tires to the "sweet spot," at 35psi. I did this, and the light remains on.
I guess I will need drive to the dealer and let them piddle with it. I like the system, or at least the idea. But I hope I don't have to drive to the dealer after every attempt to maintain the tires.
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When I'm in a garage and start the car, with the headlights on 'AUTO', they go on immediately, even before the engine turns on and starts running. Is this bad for the wiring in any way?
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Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
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So I tried using a faulty cellphone charger in one of my charging ports. I heard a loud click and now my car is not starting. So, the first thing I looked at was the fuse for the start and engine, thinking they may have been blown, but that was not the case.... Where do I go from here?
I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
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I have a very intermittent problem when starting my car. Usually it is when it's very hot outside, although not always. Start the car with the AC on, recirc, after about 3-5 seconds its a very loud "slide whistle" type sound (going from lower to higher, pretty high pitched). It only lasts about a second and sounds like something opening and creaking? Brought it to the dealership before, but its so intermittent that I doubt they tried very hard to find it. It probably only happens once or twice a month and will not duplicate if I turn off the car and start it again.
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I've owned my 2012 sonata 4 cylinder since new. It now has 54k and all of a sudden tonight it is hard starting. I drove it to my buddies to put my snow tires on and after I was done I went to start it and it cranked over a bunch before starting. It's not slow like a battery. Part way home the check engine light came on. I came home disconnected the battery. Tightened the gas cap just in case and tried starting it again after 1/2 hour. Still cranked a bunch before it started. When it starts it idles smooth still. When I give it gas from idle it sputters a bit then revs right up.
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