Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Slide Whistle Sound When Starting Car
Jun 5, 2012
I have a very intermittent problem when starting my car. Usually it is when it's very hot outside, although not always. Start the car with the AC on, recirc, after about 3-5 seconds its a very loud "slide whistle" type sound (going from lower to higher, pretty high pitched). It only lasts about a second and sounds like something opening and creaking? Brought it to the dealership before, but its so intermittent that I doubt they tried very hard to find it. It probably only happens once or twice a month and will not duplicate if I turn off the car and start it again.
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I just bought a 2013 Sonata. There is a whistling noise from the passenger side vent closest to the door that appears at about 70 mph when in MaxAC mode. It is high pitched like a venturi. It goes away when switched out of MaxAC mode or when the speed drops below 70. I am guessing that it has something to do with the outside air being squeezed off.
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My 2011 ES350 has 49k miles on it (just got it last week).
I just noticed that when moving slowly (with and without accelerating) I can hear a slight whistle sound that resembles a bird chirp coming from what I think is a wheel.
My dad can't hear the sound (I'm thinking the frequency is too high for his ears) but it is definitely there and I can hear it clearly.
The sound comes and goes but something is not right. Wonder what it is?
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Earlier today on a easy drive (not pushing it) I noticed a slight "whistle-sound" that I haven't noticed before. About then it became VERY sluggish and the Engine Management Light started to flash.
As soon as I could I pulled over and connected my AL619 and it says "to low turbo/supercharger flow".
I didn't notice any smoke or smell, just a serious lack of power (i was doing 30km/h at the top of the hill).
Just tried to locate the leak, but I cant feel it or see it. I guess one would need one of those "smoke generators" to see where the pressure goes out.
So, do I have a broken turbo, or just a blown turbo pipe/tube?
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Yesterday I took my car out, stopped at a gas station and the car wouldn't start. When trying to start it, everything inside would come on but it would just click. We were able to jump start it. After that I was able to start it 2 more times. the next time i tried to start it, it did the same thing, but the jump didn't work. We went and bought a new battery and it still isn't starting. It isn't clicking anymore though. It kinda hums when it tries to turn over. Does this seem like a starter issue?
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I have a 73 F100 with a 9" rear end. I need to replace the drivers side axle shaft as the bearing retainer is starting to slide off and I'm not willing to take a chance a new bearing and retainer will do it again. They are 31 spline axles and have the ball bearings not the tapered rollers.
What year trucks can I find a replacement axle shaft? Any other thing I should be aware of in finding a replacement?
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So I tried using a faulty cellphone charger in one of my charging ports. I heard a loud click and now my car is not starting. So, the first thing I looked at was the fuse for the start and engine, thinking they may have been blown, but that was not the case.... Where do I go from here?
I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
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I've owned my 2012 sonata 4 cylinder since new. It now has 54k and all of a sudden tonight it is hard starting. I drove it to my buddies to put my snow tires on and after I was done I went to start it and it cranked over a bunch before starting. It's not slow like a battery. Part way home the check engine light came on. I came home disconnected the battery. Tightened the gas cap just in case and tried starting it again after 1/2 hour. Still cranked a bunch before it started. When it starts it idles smooth still. When I give it gas from idle it sputters a bit then revs right up.
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My wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
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Went to start the car this mourning & it was completely dead. No power to anything. Last used the car on friday & everything was fine. It looks like the fuse on the + lead is blown but I don't know how to replace it.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and had the front pads and rotors changed a few months ago. Started to hear this squeaking noise when starting up from a stop (between ~5-15 mph). Check out the audio/video here...this is me basically holding my cellphone out of the driver side window: [URL] ....
It occurs intermittently and sometimes doesn't occur at all. The more the car is warmed up, the more often it seems to occur. Techs at Hyundai couldn't figure it out. They made me replace the rotors and pads with OEM parts and surprise, surprise, the same exact noise is occurring. I don't see how it can be wheel bearings...there is no rumbling noise or roughness at all. But the squeaking is killing me.
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So I have a weird situation. My Sonata GS with the 2.4 engine has trouble starting ONLY during cold weather (-2 or colder) if it's been sitting for a few hours. If the weather is warm, then it starts fine most of the time. The car tries to 'fire' for about 45 seconds before it does; and 'fires' with no hesitation at that point. The car runs fine, no hesitation or rough idle. I've cleaned the intake system to make sure it's not clogged or dirty, replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAP and throttle body. My battery died a few weeks ago, so I've even replaced that. What this could be? Everything I've researched or looked into would throw a code, or have symptoms while driving...yet it runs fine once it's started, and no codes/lights are showing. Don't want to just start swapping parts hoping to find the problem...
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I am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
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Just purchased the 2012 GLS this past Saturday and everything is good except for one thing. My dome light even in the "door" position stays on after starting the car and driving. I have to manually switch it to off to turn the interior light off, which is annoying. I called the dealership today and they had no prior experience with that problem. BTW, I did have a sunroof installed.
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The car basically struggles to crank. Today it failed to completely start. It took multiple tries at turning the key to get it kick and each time the car would chug until it started.
About a month ago, the dealership said she needed a new battery when she took her car in for an oil change. They told her at that time that they found the car to take longer than normal to crank and wanted to charge $80 for a battery, sale price (normally $150 at dealership). She declined at the time.
When I used the car since then it cranked fine, about a good 3-4 seconds. We had the battery tested at discount auto and they found the battery to work fine and out-put more than enough cranking amps.
Last week she was away for a few days and had the car sit untouched. But when she came back she went on a small 100+mile road trip with the car and it ran fine. And when she came back from that, she took the car to do some errands around town. Today, the car took much longer than usual to fully start.
I don't think it's the battery. Possibly something with ignition. Engine turns over, so it is getting adequate power from the battery to the starter. Engine doesn't misfire. No engine-lights on the dashboard, nothing.
2011 Sonata 2.4L
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Having problem with their Electronic Power Steering (EPS)? My new 2011 Sonata SE's EPS failed numerous times at ~500 miles. Failures all occurred shortly after starting the car when it had been sitting for a couple of hours. The EPS and ESC fail lights came on and I lost my power steering when I tried to make my first turn. The problem always cleared when I shut the car off and restarted. My dealer service department reset the computer in the steering column and noted that this is the first time they've had to work this sort of problem. Hopefully that fixed it for good...two days so far with no problems. Maybe a software glitch?
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I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
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I have this problem about 3 weeks ago,when i start the engine i have sound dont know how to describe it but something like tik tik mostly come from crank pully it is not so loud and disappear after few minutes from 5 to 10 min . and if i turn off the engine and start it again does not appear only if kept turned off several hours.
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We have changed the brakes and the caliper on the right passenger side of our 2008 Hyundai Elantra. When we brake, we a getting a grinding sound. We had to change out the caliper 2x before we got a working one. Now with a working caliper, we are still getting getting the loud grinding sound. We had greased and removed all rust in and around the caliper. The brakes are new.
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I normally drive with my arm (elbow) on the armrest and my hand resting on the gearshift. I have an automatic 2013 SE and for a while I didn't think much of it but sometimes it just concerns me because it's almost everyday now that I notice it... bu there is some kind of clicking sound a I can feel it through the gearshift. It sounds like it's coming from under it or somewhere behind the dashboard (like behind the radio console). I hear it every 3 seconds or so.. it's very subtle so I mostly hear when at a red light... it kind of sounds like something stretching or expansion, sort of like the sound wheels (or the exhaust.. not sure which makes that sound) make after you stop driving. The car seems to be running fine and I have no other issues with it. This is more of an annoyance so far but I just want to make sure this won't turn into a bigger issue.
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Is it possibly related to the blind spot detection system. I have had this happen to me once at an intersection (no lane change) and I thought someone was blowing their horn at me. My wife has had it happen on several occasions (never lane changes). This morning she was leaving he shopping mall at a stop sign and a car was coming down the cross street towards her (but not close) and there was this mysterious horn sound. I remember the salesman saying something about a warning sound when backing out of a parking space if a car was coming at you.
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