I was auto crossing yesterday with about half a tank and I noticed my fuel gauge read 40miles to empty after one of my runs. I filled it back up to the top and it still reads almost empty. Im out of warranty so Is there something I can check before taking to the dealer?
View 20 RepliesMy 2012 Sonata has the erratic fuel level indication. I've read enough posts here to pretty much assume I need to replace the sending unit.
I could go with OEM, but it seems this has plagued Hyundais for many years and across many models.
While I have the (fuel pump, filter & sender) assembly out (of the tank), when (miles) is it recommended to replace the fuel filter?
I have a 2011 Sonata Limited. I have issues with the gas gauge. At times when I start the car I can literally watch the fuel level go all the way down to Empty and the low fuel light will go on. I can leave the car running for a few mins then it will go back up. I can also be driving and the gauge will go up and down. I have gotten to the point where I just reset the trip counter and monitor the miles that way.
View 2 RepliesMy '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
I was wondering if there is a dipstick for checking the automatic transaxle fluid. I have searched my car and the owner's manual but have yet to find anything that addresses the auto transaxle. If I have managed to overlook it just give me a page number in the manual.
View 10 RepliesOK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
I have a strange problem with our 2011 Sonata GLS. For one the key gets stuck in the ignition. When this happens we are usually able to put the car in drive and then back in park, to get the key to come out. I have taken the car to the dealership twice, but they are unable to recreate the problem. They told me that you have to turn the wheel to get the key out. Also, when driving the car this weekend the emergency brake light and abs light came on for an entire 20 mile trip, even though the e brake was not engaged. This is also an intermittent problem. The car has 45k miles and so is still under warranty from Hyundai. However the dealership is unwilling to address the issue. I was told that if I bring the car back again for this issue there will be associated charges to me. I am concerned that the car has some type of electrical issue that is going to strand my wife and baby on the highway. We have only had the car 9 months and would love to put this issue to rest.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonate GLS and the key has been getting stuck in the ignition off and on for about a year. When it starts it's occasional and slowly gets more consistent with time. There was indeed a recall about 4 months back, in which the garage told me that they think it may work with what was going on, and it seemed to work for a bit until it recently started becoming consistent again.
The car shifts into PARK and the car rocks back and forward slightly and occasionally I will hear a clicking sound as it rocks, however when I don't hear that sound, I can almost guarantee that the key is going to be stuck. It will turn counterclockwise about 1/3 of the way before locking into place. I can start the car again no problem, and have to typically place it in reverse and drive again and shift, rather violently, into PARK again and pray for a click.
So, I have had this weird incident happen a couple times. The first time it happened was probably a month or so after getting the car (2013 Sonata 2.0T Limited). I was parked on our driveway, and it's on an incline. I started it up, but the brake pedal was super hard to push down. Once the car started, everything felt fine, and other than a casual "Huh, that was weird." I didn't really think anything of it. Have been without incident for months.
Then today, it happened twice. Parked in the same spot, started the car fine this time, but I went to turn it around in the driveway and almost took out our shrubs because I went to brake and the pedal was stuck. Pushed down really hard and got the car to stop. Put it in park, and tested the pedal a couple times... everything was fine. Was nervous, but took the car anyways. Happened again in the afternoon. Got out of the store and thought I was going to be stranded in the parking lot because this time the pedal was stuck and at first I couldn't start the car. Luckily, it eased up when I pushed down hard and it started, then all was fine again.
I have done a little looking and saw vacuum booster and master cylinder mentioned for possibilities, though no one's experience that I have seen sounds just like mine, nor did I find any that are Sonata YF specific. I already got my switch recall taken care of, so this is something different. Only 7,000 miles on the car. Gonna bring it in to the dealer this week, but just wanted to crowd source opinions in case they can't replicate the problem. I hate feeling like I can't trust my vehicle... especially when it's almost brand new.
I've been noticing sometimes that when you try to roll up the right rear window, it won't work. It goes down fine, but sometimes, the button won't make it go up. I'm not sure if it's just the rear switch or both the rear and the driver's switch.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata with a very annoying ignition key issue. Out of the blue after turning the car off the Ignition key does not come out. The car turns off after putting it in park and everything just fine but the key will not come out. I tried wiggling and driving the car around and everything for a while but no luck. So eventually after fussing with it enough i figured out taking the fuse for the entertainment system out (Radio/clock/side mirror control) i can get the key to work perfectly.
So for the last two days i have been able to make the car work without radio or anything and it works fine but i would want my radio back as well.
Unfortunately the car has 75k miles on it and the dealer wants $120 just to look into the problem and are quoting somewhere in the $3,000 range to fix the issue (they want to replace the whole assembly since they don't know what to do) which i think is BS reason to take my money.
So i know its not the fuse as i replaced it already and everything will work perfectly fine if i connect the fuse back in. every time i want to exit the car and take the key out i just have to take the fuse out manually and key comes out.
Not sure if this is related in anyway but i have been having an annoying AC issue where it will turn off by itself after 30-40 minutes of use or will simply blow hot air. Solution for this was to take turn AC off and back on which normally fixes it. My local Hyundai dealer has never been able to replicate this issue so they never fixed it under warranty while it was under warranty.
I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
This morning the Fuel Door can't open, after I tried 7-8 times it opened. So I drove the the dealer, but after I arrive there it can open with each push. The car did that fuel door TSB last month.
View 16 RepliesI was one of the many lucky ones to have my engine stall on me, and just had the replacement put in back in April. Drove the car from San Diego to Phoenix, and everything was fine.
A couple of weeks ago, I noticed some gas vapor fumes coming into the car usually during the initial start up, and then the smell would go away.
I read some old threads from 2011 about the pcv hose causing this issue for many owners, so I replaced both the valve and the hose. This hasn't solved the issue, and when i run the vehicle and inspect under the hood, the fume smell is still coming from that vicinity.
Is there some other valve nearby that i should inspect or replace?
For the last 60 miles, my fuel gauge is showing major usage,for every 6 miles it is using 1/10 of gauge.
When I go to fill gas it takes only less than 1/3 gallon of gas then it clicks full.
So I have driven 24 miles and it is showing 4/10 gauge used up.
No smell of gas
I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with ~65k miles. I have an intermittent problem with the cranking, but will not start. It sounds like the fuel pump is "whirring" before start, and this only happens once a week or so. Other times, the car starts fine. The gas tank is ~1/4 full also.
There has been another intermittent issue (not sure if it's related) - with the O2 sensor heating coil. The check engine light comes on for a day or two and goes away wit the O2 heater coil problem. However, I'm not sure a sensor coil problem would cause the car to not start when it's cranking.
Could it be the crank sensor issue? Is that issue known to be sporadic?
My car if left on in park for 3-4 minutes starts to have a heavy smell of something... Is my car running a little rich or is there a more serious underlying problem?
RPM of car idle is 750.
And car doesn't smell like fuel when I'm driving, only if I leave the car running for a while and it sits there does this smell begin to build up.
I have a gas leak at the connection of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and high pressure fuel pipe. Gas drips and sprays out from the nut area (see pic). The car take a several seconds to turn over to start.
What is the most likely cause? The car is out of warranty, so trying to repair myself without having to replace any expensive parts unnecessarily.
My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
Where its located? Can't seem to pull...
View 3 RepliesHow much gas do you put in your tank when your gas gauge's yellow light comes on (Low fuel indicator) in the Prius v (Yes, I am asking specifically concerning the Prius v)?
Would 9.25 US Gal or 35 L sound right to you?