Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Fuel Level Stuck At Below Empty - CEL On
Apr 19, 2015
My '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
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On a 2003 5.4 f-250 XLT 4 door, long bed
Running 285 tires, none lifted, factory lifted for snow plowing? Did have a plow mount when purchased used.
Had the truck over a year now & love it. My only real dislike is the stiff/ rough ride when empty, which is 80-90% of the time for me.
I know my truck & year have leaf springs with shock dampeners on the front, vs the coil spring and shock dampeners that came in the later years for a much improved ride. Also my struts are "Rough Country" which from what I understand are cheaper shocks. Had a 04 Tacoma I replaced with Bilstein 5100 shocks after leveling it & it was an amazing difference. So that's my only real comparison in shocks. I've read of guys replacing their entire front end for the coils & springs. Not interested in going that deep into it for a better ride. If that's my only option, all be happy with the ride as is.
What are my options if any? Better shocks/struts? Other than my rough country that are on the truck? Purchased used a year back & never felt the "stock struts".
I did find Bilstein 5160' s for my model truck. Link : [URL] .....
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03 F250. Passenger window is stuck up. When I have the door panel off, I can feel the motor trying to move up. Won't go down at all. When I connect test light to the plug, it lights up correctly for both up and down. Thought maybe it was the motor so I got a new one but it only tries to go one way. It's like the switch isn't sending the signal for the window to go down even though the plug appears to be getting the correct signal.
I took apart the driver's side switch and nothing looks crimped, bent, etc. From some reading, it sounds like possibly the regulator is bad, does that somehow send a signal back to the switch? Is there a relay or something that could be bad? I find it odd that test light seems to work but when connected to a motor, it doesn't.
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Ever since January My fuel gauge has been acting up big time. I can have any amount of gas in my tank at any given time and the fuel gauge will fall to empty resulting in the fuel and check engine light coming on. The gauge will then return to its position (it still doesn't read correctly) and the check engine light will stay on. I took it to the ford dealer and they said to replace the entire fuel sending unit assembly. I bought the oem motorcraft fuel sending unit assembly and did it myself. The only problem is, I still have the issue. I'm currently checking fuses and relays, By the way, my truck is a 2004 f250 fx4 5.4
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I have an 03 f350 4x4 cc long bed and I seem to be having a problem with my fuel gauge. It doesn't show the true amount of what's in the tank and because of that I have run out of fuel a few times.
sometimes when I'm driving the light will come on and the gauge will drop all the way to empty then a little later it will go to almost full even with only putting 10 gals in the tank.
Any fix for this or do I need to replace the sending unit?
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I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4. from what I have read i should have the 38 gallon tank. i have been really questioning the accuracy of my fuel gauge on empty with the light on 25 gallons and the fuel pump will click off and after i drive i can park and my fuel gauge will read lower than what it was when i pulled into the driveway with. me and the wife went driving yesterday and we pulled back into the driveway on half a tank this morning I went to go run some errands and when i started the truck the gauge was almost on a quarter of a tank my driveway is flat and after driving for about 35 minutes the gauge was still in the same spot and did not move up nor down.
I have a locking gas cap cover so i know someone is not taking gas out. I have changed the fuel filter and tried numerous different fuel system cleaners to try and see if maybe the contacts on the float in the tank are dirty nothing has changed or gotten any better. I have checked the wire harness from the top of the tank and followed it up under the hood and found no drop in voltage or cracked or damaged wires. I checked with my multi-meter I used my fluke meter not some cheap one. Don't know if the gauge is reading less or more from getting gas i am thinking it is showing less than what is in the tank. What could be my problem?
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I have an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat with almost 200,000. The other day my t-stat started sticking and popping at 220 and then would go back to normal. Now it won't pop and it's puking coolant in the front of the engine. Would just a bad t-stat cause this or do I need to do my water pump as well.
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I have 03 F-250 with a 5.4 in it. Recently noticed the gas gauge is not moving much and seems like it will not go below half a tank. The gauge will go up however when i put gas in it. I just put techtron in it last night to see if this might work. Wasn't to sure if i did a battery reset on the truck if that may work as well.
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I have a 2003 F250, 4x4, 5.4L and today my fuel gauge stopped working. I don't know if it had anything to do with a stall, I was on an exit ramp and the truck cut off, I quickly restarted and no issues after that. Other than the fuel gauge not working at this point.
I looked at the fuse panel diagram and there is no fuse for just the fuel gauge. The only thing I see is #35, instrument cluster. The rest of my instruments are working, so what else would cause the fuel gauge to stop working? It had a little over a half of a tank before the stall, after the stall it went down to less than half. I filled up shortly later and it's just stuck at less than half.
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I just got a 2001 F250 with a Rebuilt V8 5.4 with 310,000 miles about two months ago I changed the oil about three weeks ago. I put full synthetic 5-20w and I went to check the level today and it was way low. I see no leaks and I don't see it mixing with the radiator fluid. Is this normal might it just be burning oil ? I do drive the truck at least 100 miles a day.
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I bought a 2006 F250 6.0L a couple of months ago, from a dealership. It's been bulletproofed already, has an intake, coolant filter kit. Has 95k (mileage). Today, my fuel gauge dropped to empty from 3/4 of a tank for a couple of miles and set off the CE light. I hooked my scan tool to it, to clear the code (P0460).
After just checking other things out with the scan tool. I cleared it and went on... I had to run to the store, later on... I was pulling out of the neighborhood and the gas pedal was a lot more "touchy" and the truck, responded to it and it launched pretty good and blew a good amount of black smoke.
Do any of you think this has/or had a tuner on it and I may have activated it with my scanner?
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New to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
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This morning while driving cold a fuel leak started on my truck it's a very heavy leak wondering what are the most common leaks on an 2003 F250 6.0L are so I can start there.
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2005 V-10... I've found some info on the "fuel level data error" but thought there must be more on this. In the last month or so I get the error on the message center and the fuel gauge goes to E. Happened a couple times here and there and then the CEL has come on. Have nto been able to get the CEL to go out because it happens too often now.
Have tried a couple bottles of Techron because that is suppose to fix it but no luck after about 150 miles. Can't find any loose wires/connectors. Am ready to give up and drop the tank. Is the sensor separate or part of the pump assy? Also don't see alot on dropping the tank on SDs. Any tips?
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I just bought a used 2004 F-350, 4x4, crew cab, short bed, 6.0L diesel. I'm having a WTF moment on fuel. Gage indicates just under 1/4 of a tank of diesel but the on-board computer is flashing like crazy stating 5 miles to empty, what the hell is that all about?
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I've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
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We just bought and '05 F350 Turbo Diesel, about two days after getting it the check engine light came on. We had the dealer check it since the mechanic wasn't in and it came up as "Fuel Level Sensor" . My husband can't remember the exact code. We have been told it's no big deal but we want it fixed and the engine light to go off. The dealer is giving us the runaround, or at least I think so.
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I'm planning on doing a 2" level. Will I need a drop pitman arm, or can I stick with the stock pitman arm? Will I need anything else? I plan on doing the level when I replace my coil springs and shocks. (I have another thread on that). I'm driving a 2000 F250 V10 2WD CC SB (twin I-beam front axle) if that info is pertinent to this question.
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A friend has a 2003 6.0,around 200000kms well maintained just had new injectors,filters etc. This truck is his bread and butter so anything that needs to be addressed gets it, pretty much touble free until now. Just out of the blue last week at driving @60kms/hr pulling an empty trailer it died no surge or sputter. Full fuel,oil etc,they tried to get it running and it would not fire up. His local auto shop pretty much gave up on it and it now sits at our Ford dealership. Thoughts are leaning to fuel delivery to electrical can we ball park some things that he can put forward to the dealer to get him in and out sooner.
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2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
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I have a 2000 ford F 250 with V-10 engine with fuel gauge stuck. The problem started in the winter a couple years back on a cold night when I fueled the truck with it running. The fuel gauge never went down. I assume this would indicate a stuck float? I dropped the tank and noticed a loose yellow wire. I can't see that the wire was attached anywhere though? A V-10 is not the engine to be guessing with on fuel...
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