Every once in a while, turbo will not work. If I pull over a do a restart, it will work every time. It happened once about a year ago and now it seems to happen once every 5 starts. Bad wastegate? Covered under warranty?
2012 with 87k
Like the title, my backup camera on the limited sometimes doesn't work. Why this might be happening? This started happening few days ago...., I installed HID about three~four months ago and I just installed my led tail lights...
View 11 RepliesSo my 20th runs completely fine until rain is involved.. Once it rains and I bring my rpms high or use my turbo it almost staples out and the gas doesn't work.. Also I notice it shoots out a puff of white smoke and my. Turbo doesn't spool at the way.. It basically tries and just does something like psh psh psh psh like second spools? Could water get in my. Turbo or something.
View 19 RepliesSo I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
Just want to get some input before throwing in the towel. The horn doesn't work as pressed from the steering wheel. Took the horns out and tested it manually by connecting it to the positive terminal and ground of the vehicle. One (high) didn't work while the other (low) worked. I purchased an aftermarket replacement for the high pitch horn and installed it. Still nothing. Checked the fuse inside the fuse box by the right side engine bay and it is ok. Can't find the location of the relay since we bought this used from the dealership. No manual and the cover to the fuse box (inside the vehicle) was missing.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
I have absolutely loved my 2011 F-150 8 cyl since I bought it in 2013. I'm just now having my first issue...
For the past two weeks or so, I've had an issue with intermittently hard starting. It cranks like normal but doesn't turn over instantly. The longest its gone before starting has been about six seconds. Although originally happening only 10% of the time, its happening about 40% of the time over the past couple days. I had my mechanic take a look and the battery and starter all checked out fine.
Biggest problem was that it never did it for them making it hard for them to trouble-shoot. Thus far its always started, just takes an indescript amount of time in which to do it. The time of day doesn't seem to matter although afternoons in which I'm heading to lunch after being in the office for 3-4 hours seems the most common time.
I have been getting no throttle response intermittently. I will be driving usually at lower speeds and all of a sudden the engine with slow down and there will be no response to the throttle pedal. It will come back quickly. Also the ESC light sometimes comes on and yesterday I could not set the cruise control. Today it had this problem but the ESC light was off and cruise control worked.
View 23 RepliesThis has happened to me twice in the last month including this morning. When I turn the key the engine turns over normally but will not start.
This morning I noticed that the instrument panel indicator lights flash as the motor is cranking also the radio that I had left on did not come on while cranking.
I try a couple things with the key fob alarm and hook up a light weight battery charger to the battery. Then when I try again it starts.
I do not think it is the battery as it has plenty of power and I only hooked up the charger because I heard the cranking slow down as I tried several time to start it. Which I think is normal.
I had a low tire indicator show up on the dash today while driving home. It was flashing. I continued to drive, (only a mile from home) since there was no indication of anything going wrong with the tires. Then, the indicator stopped flashing, and went to steady. Then, by the time I hit the brakes to turn down my road, the indicator was gone. So, I checked all my tires, and with my very old accoutre gauge, they all showed 34.5 (35 being the spec). I hope to not see that again.
View 26 RepliesCheck engine light on and off. Code shows turbo boost throttle position sensor is the problem. I can't find a part with that name.
View 10 RepliesI'm the second owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L with about 79,000 miles on it. I've had it for about 6 months and I go to get into my car this morning, and my car wouldn't start.
It starts to start but then cuts out and does a humming noise. I don't know if that counts as "turning over" because its a push start, but there were no clicking noises like it was trying to catch, just the hum. It also started making this same humming noise when I turn the car "on" without turning on the engine.
Everything works, my stereo, ac, headlights, taillights. I even tried jumping it and that did not work. We checked the fuses and they all look ok too.
I also put the key in the manual key hole in the center console while doing all this just to make sure.
Although it looks like the car is on, after I try to start it, the lights on the dash go out and my meters all turn on just as if the car is on, but the engine will not start. I can even shift the gears from parked to drive, neutral, etc and power steering works.
Finally after about an hour of messing with it, I gave up and tried to shut the car power off, and it wouldn't turn off! I went back n forth between the two on modes for a good 5-7 minutes before it FINALLY turned completely off and I was able to lock up and leave it...
*I have also had issues before where one or two dome lights randomly turn on when i unlock the car (with them set to OFF at all times). Maybe this is a minor electrical issue that turned into a bigger problem from ignoring it?
**I DO have an aftermarket stereo and alarm installed FYI.
It is not the brake switch. I can shift the transmission. Put key in ignition and turn to start. Engine starts to fire then stops and can hear starter turning while still holding key in start position. The car did start after many time and got home.
Tried to start again and no go. Warranty is done. I have read something on-line about cam position sensor? Last couple months had strange idle at stop light that went away and this can be also a symptom of the cam sensor.
I have installed switchback led signal lights. The right side only turn signal lights will hyper flash until I have driven 10-15mins. and then they operate normally. The guys who installed the system went to a better resistor and nothing changed. My installer says he has never seen this issue before. The driver's side functions properly. both sides have always had resistors.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0t. I get a humming noise that starts out faint but gets very loud. This happens with the ac on and while coming to a stop or while stopped.
View 5 RepliesMy left Low-Beam headlamp stopped working. I replaced bulb and still no low beam on that side. Checked new bulb in opposite side and it works fine.
View 3 RepliesWhen driving my 2013 Sonata with the rear windows open the deck below the back window starts vibrating horribly. You can actually see it moving up and down. If I also have the stereo on the vibrations distort the sound something awful. Close the window and the vibration goes away. Is it a defect, and is there a quick fix? Only problem with the car so far.
View 2 RepliesThis morning I noticed my Trunk release button by the steering wheel, and the release button on my key fob won't work. Using the key manually does open my trunk though.
I checked, and it is not in the locked valet mode. I do hear a slight "click" when I push either button so it's trying to pop the trunk but no activity.
What this may be? Didn't know if it might be an electrical issue and if there was a fuse to check? Or if maybe it's a mechanical problem and i'll have to get it looked at.
I've had my Sonata for six days, and I love it... Except... The cruise control doesn't work. At all. Never did. I tried pulling up on the brake pedal like another poster had suggested, but that didn't do a thing. Looks like a trip to the dealership is in order...
View 32 RepliesI bought my 2013 Sonata GLS back in October w/ 15k miles on it. For Christmas, I got an OEM Hyundai remote start (part # 3S056-ADU02). I took it to a local parts shop to get it installed. Turns out, I needed the jumper harness so I ordered that and they installed it today.
Now for the bad part - everything is installed, and the remote works fine. However, when I go to start the car, it stays started for 2 seconds, beeps, and cuts off and tries several times before giving up. The audio shop said to take it to the dealer to get it programmed, but I took it there and they said it would be $150 to program it. BUT they don't know if that's the problem or not. I've went through the forums and I see nothing about programming. I have found posts with problems similar to mine, but I can't find an answer. Why would it need programmed if everything else on the remote works? How can I make it stay started?
I currently have a 2011 Sonata. The drivers side low beam head light does not work. I thought it was the bulb, so I went and purchased a H7 bulb. When I replaced it with a new bulb it still did not work. The high beam works fine. So I thought I bought a bad bulb. I then tried the bulb i bought on the passenger side and low and behold the low beam worked. I then put my old bulb that I thought was bad on the passenger side and it worked.
I swapped every light bulb on the drivers side (the new one and my old ones I already had), and none of the low beams would work. I course I did move the switch to the correct position inside the card and no go. The DayTime running lights work fine, I just cant get the low beam to work on the drivers side.
I tried checking the fuses to see if i had a blown fuse and no luck. I could not find a blown fuse. Is there a fuse somewhere for the low beam light, if so I cannot find it anywhere in any manual that I have searched. I have also heard that it may be the Body Control Module.