Subaru - Outback :: 2007 - Bolt From Caliper Bracket Broke While Driving At 60 Mph?
Dec 11, 2015
3 weeks after having my brakes replaced. At 60 mph yesterday.
The garage has the car now and is saying it was a freak accident and not something they caused. I call foul to that. It's a 2007 Subaru Outback.
What should I say to them to make sure this gets repaired properly? And what unseen damage should I be looking out for? The wheel run has a groove from where the bolt rubbed. That's all I could see. And I could lift up and wiggle the caliper.
It was only the pad replaced on the front brakes. It was pads and rotors on the back.
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
2011 Lexus RX350 ... What are the Torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts (front and rear caliper brackets) a pdf will be great
View 1 Replies
I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
View 13 Replies
My Subaru just had the thermostat replaced, and it seemed to work until the wife took it she said it over heats when not driving the fans are working, it's over flowing out the reserve tank the fluid looked good when changed the thermostat so I don't think it's the head gasket my next guess would be either the water pump... After I last changed the thermostat and test drove it I felt the upper radiator hose it was hot but the bottom one was cool/warm.
View 8 Replies
I was changing my oil yesterday and noticed a significant amount of oil residue on a bracket located approximately at the center of the front axle, to the left of the oil pan. I'm confident the leak isn't coming from the oil pan, drain plug, or oil filter, based solely on the location of the buildup, but I was not able to see specifically where the build originated. As this is a Boxer engine, my concern is that the underside of one of the head gaskets may be leaking. My only reservation about this theory, however, is that I haven't smelled any burning oil or witnessed any gray smoke.
Unfortunately, I haven't paid close attention to the oil levels in recent moths, so I can't say definitively whether or not the levels have fallen since the last oil change.
Where the residue is coming from and if it's a problem requiring immediate attention?
View 6 Replies
Iv got a 2000 passat 1.8t and the shift linkage bracket broke, so i got a new one but my problem is how do i get the linkage cable off the old one, and onto my new one. Is the cable supposed to be able to break into two parts.
View 2 Replies
The caliper/bracket has worn down on the front brakes to the point that I am replacing pads couple of times a year and they vibrate excessively when braking hard like on a hill. on other year years, these parts are separate and bolted together, on the 95 it is one welded piece . I cant seem to find a replacement part, even when trying to order the entire wheel hub assembly it doesn't show/specify if that part is attached. I did find replacements at a junk yard but they too were worn. Is it possible to convert to another year wheel hub assembly?
View 4 Replies
I pulled a brake caliper off for inspection, and when I reinstalled it, I managed to strip one of the holes on the caliper bracket when putting one of the 7mm bolts back in - haste makes waste, ya? So, I am trying to find out my options, is it possible to get it re-threaded, helicoiled, or is it toast and I need to buy a new one?
View 2 Replies
The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
View 19 Replies
While driving my 2000 Subaru Outback (197,000 miles) the speedometer, tachometer stopped working but the fuel and temp gauges were working fine. The transmission felt like it was slipping. When I used the brakes they were grabby, jerky and made a loud clunk. The engine began sputtering and I was barely able to keep it going as I tried to get home. At stop lights I had to put the car in neutral and rev the engine. We also noticed that while the engine was running the power windows were very slow to open and close and the turn signals and emergency flashers did not work at all. Now the car is in the driveway dead as a doornail and the key stuck in the ignition.
The battery is one year old and the alternator is the original. The fuel tank is 3/4 full. I bought the car new in 2000. What the problem could be?
View 2 Replies
I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
View 3 Replies
Misfire when driving just after warm up and either stoping or slowing down to turn feels like 2 cyls drop off .if turn of key then restart will run fine the rest of the day. changed the coil, ignitor, map sensor front o2 engine has a new timing belt and head gaskets, spark plugs were changed about 200 miles ago wires seem ok I ran a can of bg 44k through the fuel system not sure what to do now,, also it will not through a code of any kind bummer.
View 4 Replies
Subaru Outback 2003 4 cylinder runs ok first several minutes then starts to skip. Appears to be maybe EGR related? Plugs/wires/dist ignition are ok. The car was double filled with oil the started, smoked. Could that affect the ECR or PVC? Could this damage the fuel injectors?
View 5 Replies
I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
View 11 Replies
Subie was driving fine...drove it on highway and went to park and NO reverse. At first, I couldn't shift into park either, but then I was able to shift in park. I can move the gear to reverse, but nothing happens (engine just revs and car wants to roll forward as it is on slight incline. Hubby checked trans fluid and it was a bit low, added fluid, but still no reverse.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Subaru Outback Limited with 135K miles on it. In the last year, I had two complete head jobs (the second because the new water pump failed while on the highway). In addition, I have had multiple water pumps, lots of thermostats and a new radiator installed. The last thermostat is an OEM. The car had been running fine for about a month and now overheats after about 30-40 minutes of combined, but mostly highway driving. At first, the gauge would rise to about 3/4 and then drop after about ten seconds, but now it goes to almost red and drops to 3/4. If I blast the heat, it will drop pretty fast. My mechanic told me that while diagnosing an earlier overheat issue (just before the good period), he noticed that the gauge would rise, but the computer temp would remain stable. He tried a new sensor, but said it made no difference, so he returned it. What is left to replace?
View 12 Replies
We have a new 2010 Subaru Outback and all is well except an issue with the passenger airbag. It cycles ON -OFF - ON - OFF - - - while driving. The Subaru dealer has checked it twice & says it is properly operating. We contacted Subaru, they contacted the dealer and responded, per dealer it is OK. The cycling makes us uncomfortable with the saftey of the system. She weighs right at 100 Lbs, if we hit a bump in the road the airbag status changes, if she shifts her position in the seat the status changes, it may change without any outside influence, etc. If it would maintain it's status it would seem more reliable.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2002 Subaru Outback that has started overheating only when I try to go up into the mountains. It starts within a few miles of starting up a steep grade and cools down the instant you start down the mountain. I have had no problems with regular driving conditions. The only pertinent info might be that it did have a coolant leak last summer and overheated then.
View 8 Replies
We bought a 2007 Outback in April of 2012 (~75,000 mi.). After a couple of oil changes I noticed that the oil consumption seemed high. The dealer looked for leaks and replaced the head gaskets under warranty. Oil consumption still seemed high. The dealer started monitoring the oil consumption checking it every 1000 miles for six months or so. Consumption was about 1 qt. for 1200 miles. Reluctantly they agreed to look at the rings (98,000 mi.). They found burnt oil rings and replaced them.
Oil consumption went down to 1 quart in 1800 miles (improvement of 600 miles). The engine was still under an extended warranty when this happened. I was claiming that the cylinder bores must have been out of spec to see such a small increase in oil consumption and that they should have given me a new short block or rebored the old one with new pistons to match. My question is, what kind of a result I should expect from a ring job? Am I correct in thinking that something else must be wrong with the engine if the oil consumption improved so little?
View 19 Replies
1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
View 2 Replies
A new issue has cropped up with my 2001 H6 Subaru Outback (which I believe is technically a Legacy). We've put so much work into this thing to keep it running and this might be the last nail in the coffin. However, what's going on...
My wife reported to me yesterday that the vehicle was turning itself off while driving. I was not in the car to verify any of this, so this part is anecdotal. After 45 minutes of driving, she said the engine was "hiccuping" and the gages were dropping to zero and then bringing themselves right back up to the current RPM and speed. She said the ABS light came on. The first time the vehicle did this, she reports that it did it many times in rapid succession. She described it as "the gages were going crazy". After turning around to come back home this happened once more, though not in rapid succession. It was a single occurrence of turning off and back on again. She indicated that the vehicle did not require a restart with the key. I suspect that this was because she was driving at highway speed at the time.
She brought it right to the mechanic and - as is the case with all intermittent issues - they were not able to repeat the failure in any way. So, being an engineer, I decided I wanted to experience it for myself and do a few tests.
Today I drove 45 minutes to work, 10 minutes of small town driving, 25 minutes of highway driving, 10 minutes of small town driving. Lucky for me (!), in the first five minutes of driving, the radio cut out, power steering died, and I heard fuses or relays clicking as I was gently braking and gently taking a right turn. I continued the right turn off into a parking spot on the side of the road and stopped the car. I turned the key to the off position, put it into park and restarted the vehicle right away. No problems. All was fine.
The vehicle did not do this again for the entire trip. However, I did perform some tests to see if I could repeat a similar failure with the ignition alone.
1) Turning the ignition off and quickly back on again by hand while rolling at highway speed (~55 mph) will cause the vehicle to kick back into a normal running mode.
2) Turning the ignition off and quickly back on again by hand while rolling at lower speed (~30 mph) will require a restart by turning the key all the way to the "start" position and not just the "on" position.
3) Turning the ignition off with the key (as in 1 and 2) DOES NOT cut out the radio. Note that when the intermittent defect occurs, the radio will cut out and then come back along with the engine and instrument panel.
4) Wiggling and stressing the keys to put strain on the ignition switch doesn't seem to cause anything to happen.
5) The battery is only a few months old and a general inspection of the battery terminals, cabling, and fuses indicates that everything appears to be in tact and clean.
I'm not the most experienced car person, so my terminology is probably a little off and that's all I have for now. I feel like this is a common ground issue and if I could only identify which ground services the instrument panel and radio and spark plugs I could inspect it and clean or replace a connection. My limited research reveals that there are many grounds throughout the engine compartment, though.
View 10 Replies
