Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1995 - Caliper / Bracket Worn Down On The Front Brakes
Jun 9, 2013
The caliper/bracket has worn down on the front brakes to the point that I am replacing pads couple of times a year and they vibrate excessively when braking hard like on a hill. on other year years, these parts are separate and bolted together, on the 95 it is one welded piece . I cant seem to find a replacement part, even when trying to order the entire wheel hub assembly it doesn't show/specify if that part is attached. I did find replacements at a junk yard but they too were worn. Is it possible to convert to another year wheel hub assembly?
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I pulled a brake caliper off for inspection, and when I reinstalled it, I managed to strip one of the holes on the caliper bracket when putting one of the 7mm bolts back in - haste makes waste, ya? So, I am trying to find out my options, is it possible to get it re-threaded, helicoiled, or is it toast and I need to buy a new one?
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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I've replaced fuse underhood and fuse inside door panel. I've read about in the glove box there may be a fuse there for power windows? I removed the glove box panel to find 4 relays. Nothing is marked on these relays or panel. I read the numbers off these four relays inside the glove box to the clerk and she did not show any such thing on her computer for my vehicle. can a person pop out the main driver door switch and replace that?
1995 jeep grand cherokee 4x4 6cyc
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We have a beloved 1995 Jeep Gr Cherokee 4L that was our first new car! We have babied it for many years. It now has 173k on it. We took to local Jeep dealer to get all RECALL items taken care of and to have it checked out completely. It was pinging on acceleration and hvac wasn't working. They kept it 5 months and finished all recall stuff and replaced the ENGINE TEMP SENSOR. They also recommended a new trans and a new AC. Since my niece wants it; and she loves it like we do; we took it to an honest transmission shop.
They said trans was fine just needed oil pan gasket, rear main seal and an elec engine diag because trans and engine were not speaking to each other. Now our JEEP is home; sits in driveway all week. When we start the car on Saturday we still have WHITE SMOKE then after driving awhile it goes away. Does not leak oil; does not need coolant; has NEVER over heated. Engine sounds great and it runs great. Had it tested for head gasket a couple of years ago and they said pressure was fine. We have never had to put coolant in it. The dealer and other Mechanics said nothing.
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What is going on with my car! Anyways I am been having a reoccurring problem with my car that i cant seem to fix. I actually took it to a shop (MIDAS) and the mechanic left the car on for 20 minutes and even drove it around and said it ran fine, but of course on my way home it shuts off. But anyway car starts up fine but after being driven for15-20 minutes the car will shut off, usually at low to idle speeds (stop signs, etc). If i drive the car to work in the morning and leave at night i experience no problems.
Yet if i go to the gym and leave within a hour, i always expect the car to shut off on me so i assume something is being overheated? As far as when the car stalls, i am able to crank the car with no start, sometimes the car starts and turns off right away, sometimes it runs for a bit, and sometimes it wont start at all, only cranks. After 30 minutes the car will work again. When the car begins to shut down and stall, i've noticed if i apply gas i can keep the car half alive as if its trying to continue to work.
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I'm looking to trade my '95 dodge ram 1500 with someone for their '95 grand cherokee. The GC has 190k miles on it, my truck has 155k.
I noticed when test driving the GC that the oil gauge follows the rpms of the engine. I.e. when idle the oil gauge is low-mid level. When i raise the RPMs, the gauge indicates there is more oil pumping, then when i go back to idle it drops back down too; in other words it looks like the oil jumps with RPMs.
I've never seen this type of behavior before, is this a sign of typical behavior for a jeep GC, a bad gauge, maybe an oil leak?
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1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
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My heater/AC blower quit working. Does not work with either heat or AC. I suspect a blown fuse but cannot find one for the blower.
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Recent noticed a whirling noise coming from the front of the car. Pitch increased with velocity, but not RPMs. A mechanic diagnosed it as a worn front differential. I have a long highway trip coming up and want to know if this will stress it to its breaking point and I'll be stranded. Also, what should it cost to repair. This mechanic said an overall is $1K. 267K miles on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.8L V8 engine. Never had a work done on the front differential.
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1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD. This is a 4X4. This Jeep runs great in all other ways, but only when it's hot out--hot enough to create heat on the front suspension, this problem occurs. The CV Joints have ben changed. Short Trips, it will not happen, only after warming up. It's never happened in cold weather. Been Greased. Three mechanics have looked at this and have found no reason for the problem. . .only to say, yep, it's a problem.
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I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
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2011 Lexus RX350 ... What are the Torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts (front and rear caliper brackets) a pdf will be great
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I have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
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3 weeks after having my brakes replaced. At 60 mph yesterday.
The garage has the car now and is saying it was a freak accident and not something they caused. I call foul to that. It's a 2007 Subaru Outback.
What should I say to them to make sure this gets repaired properly? And what unseen damage should I be looking out for? The wheel run has a groove from where the bolt rubbed. That's all I could see. And I could lift up and wiggle the caliper.
It was only the pad replaced on the front brakes. It was pads and rotors on the back.
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Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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I replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
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I have a 2014 Patriot. I swapped my all-season tires for my snow tires and discovered the front tires (both) are wearing badly on the inner half. The right tire has worn way more than the left, and it is bald on that edge. I had an alignment done in May 2015 at 25,000 km after I had put on my all-season tires (that was done in April). Since then, I forgot to get a rotation done (and perhaps they would have seen the issue sooner). I brought the car in today to get looked at (Dec 17) but they found nothing wrong. They even did an alignment check and everything is within specs. What's wrong with it. I'm afraid my snow tires are going to wear the same way. The service manager tried to tell me that my tires were wearing on the inner edge of the tire naturally due to turning my steering wheel.
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My front disc brakes are creating a small amount of drag on the rotor. With the car jacked up and wheel off I am able to easily turn the rotor by hand, but there is a small amount of drag. I haven't had any problems with my brakes, they have never frozen or overheated, etc. I put new brake pads and rotors on the front about 6 months ago only because it was time for replacement. The question is: how much disc brake drag is acceptable? Looking around on the internet for answers there doesn't seem to be a consensus: some people say absolutely no brake drag, some say that a small amount is normal. What do you think?
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I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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