Taurus :: 1995 - AC And Radiator Fan Not Working
Jun 29, 2015
The radiator fan is not working and the AC only works intermittently. I have replaced the Constant Control Relay Module and the temperature sending unit and checked all fuses.
The fan is good, I've checked it. The plug to the fan has power when the car is first started for approximately 8-10 seconds then no power. If I turn the car off then restart it, again power for a short time then no power.
The AC compressor kicks on and off. When I drive the car on the highway, the AC works fine until the temperature starts getting too high. What else could this be?
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My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
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I'll be traveling this summer and will leave my 1995 Ford Taurus in my home state. Aside from disconnecting the battery, is there anything I can/should do before I leave so that the car will be drive able when I get back? (I did this a few summers ago and did nothing to prepare; when I got back, the car did start, but a few days later it died and I had burned out the alternator. Would like to avoid doing that again!
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My 1995 Taurus SE check engine comes on shortly after starting, cuts out for two seconds on rapid acceleration, and the check engine lights goes off for ten seconds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plugs, and the air filter. I have tried Techron injector cleaner. It is better but the check engine light is still on and it cuts out as before.
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The night before last night on my way home the car made a chemical smell. Ford taurus 1995. So I checked the fluids in the morning and it was super low on antifreeze so I bought some and filled it. I checked several times and it still holding. Then when I was driving it last night it started making a chemical smell again and when I stopped it was smoking a little from under the serpentine belt, which is new. I started driving it this am after made sure the antifreeze was ok but it is making a grinding noise on acceleration. Should I try to make it to work or take it to the mechanic, who is closed on Sunday or call a tow truck? The ac which is normally good seemed to be not working so I thought it might be related to that so I didn't use it this am.
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My radiator is running hot and I cannot tell if I need a thermostat or if I have issues with the coolant fan. 4 cyl. auto.
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My 1995 Ford Taurus wagon has just developed a starting problem. When the air is damp and foggy, it will just crank but won't start. It has 177,000 miles on it and has always started right up. What could be causing this new problem?
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The A/C in my 1995 Taurus SHO stopped working suddenly on my way to work. I found that the compressor clutch was no longer engaging. I tried tapping the clutch with a broom handle while the car was running and the A/C on to see if the clutch would engage and indicating that the gap my be too wide but I had no luck.
I then hooked up the guages to check the charge and performance of the system. When I removed the service hoses both service ports were leaking gas. I tried to poke them with a small scredriver to get them to seal but that didn't work. I ended up losing the entire charge.
The service ports in the A/C lines do not appear to be schrader valves. There appear to be small rubber balls in the port that seal. However I knocked one of the apparent balls loose and found simply a flat plate in the service port. I am certain that it is not a schrader valve unless one exists under this plate.
Are these service ports repairable/replaceable or do I need to replace the entire hose assembly?
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I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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I was flushing the radiator on my 1995 V6, 3 Liter, 5 speed. And absent mindedly, I fired up the engine for a minute to "flush" it out, but hadn't put the water/flush in it yet.
Now, the check engine light is on, it idles at about 2000 RPMs and spits smoke. I haven't run it more than 5 minutes total like this. I refilled the radiator, fired it up, no better. I drained that and tried again, but still no better.
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In my 97 Ford Taurus the turn signals and hazards are not working. I changed the fuses, but still no luck. Someone mentioned that there might be another fuse box under the hood (besides the maxi fuse box). Also someone mentioned the blinker fluid being low.
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2005 Taurus. 82K miles, 3L, 6cyl, OHV engine, auto transmission. Occasionally the tachometer goes crazy. When this happens, it seems like the car loses some power. The reading on the tach is definitely incorrect when this happens (needle all over the place). Replacing something called the "speed sensor" ??? Couldn't find anything else that this problem may point to ??
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I have noticed that the driver's side radiator fan (big one) is not working at all. when I switch the A/C on, only the small fan is running.I'm getting the below errors
006480 - Radiator Fan (V7)
P1950 - 002 - Movement Restricted / Jammed - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 136404 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:13:35
001152 - Coolant Fan Control Circuit 1
P0480 - 004 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 7
Mileage: 136404 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:14:47
I can move the fan by hand and it's not jammed. What to check ?
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So there was a thread on here a little while back about the radiator fan running after the car is shut off and I noticed that I have never heard my radiator fan run after I turn off the car, even when it was 100 degrees here. I do notice a high pitched electrical sound from under the hood that sounds constantly for several minutes after the car is shut off. Is it possible that these two things (radiator fan not running after shut off, and high pitched sound after shut off) are related? Is there any simple way to maybe test to see if the fan is functioning via VCDS or something?
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My a/c has not been working so we added R134a yesterday and it fixed the problem just like it did last summer. Once I was finished I left the a/c on high when I shut my car off. This morning when I left for work it was too cold so I turned it to the "off" position. On my drive I decided to turn the a/c on and make sure it was still getting cold at which point nothing happened, absolutely no air (hot or cold) was blowing out. I kept turning it on and off and at one point the a/c did start working again at which point I turned the fan speed to low. A few minutes later the blower completely quit working again. Nothing works at any speed, any position regardless of heat or a/c. Absolutely nothing is blowing out of my vents. I can hear something that sounds like opening and closing when I change the position/type of a/c/heat but the other than that the only sound is a "shhhhhhh" when I turn it to the off position. Where to start on diagnosing and fixing this issue?
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I have a 2006 2.7 gls awd santa fe ,the alternator bearing went bad and got stuck took the alternator to a repair shop to get fixed, put it back on the santa fe the alternator worked just fine now i have the radiator fan and ac fan not working, I turn the ac on and none of then work I wait for the car to heat up and nothing happens I check the radiator fan by connecting it directly to the battery and it works fine ,i have swap the horn relay with the radiator relay and it is working fine. I will check net the fuses, then the thermostat and later on the temperature sensor.
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So my radiator fan isn't working my ac fan is but not the other one. I knocked on it a few times and got it to spin? Also I was wondering where I could buy silicone hoses for the cooling and for my turbo the hoses i think have holes that's why the check engine light is on something to do with vacuum leak/high idle.
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I have a 2000 Taurus and recently the power windows and power locks stopped working. They won't work from any door switch but when I use the key fob to unlock or lock the car the locks will work. However, the windows won't work from any door switch. I didn't see a fuse marked for the windows or locks.
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