4Runner/GX470 :: 1995 - Flushing Radiator And Fired Up Engine Without Coolant
Apr 21, 2012
I was flushing the radiator on my 1995 V6, 3 Liter, 5 speed. And absent mindedly, I fired up the engine for a minute to "flush" it out, but hadn't put the water/flush in it yet.
Now, the check engine light is on, it idles at about 2000 RPMs and spits smoke. I haven't run it more than 5 minutes total like this. I refilled the radiator, fired it up, no better. I drained that and tried again, but still no better.
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We just bought a 1995 Toyota 4Runner that has 195,000 miles. We bought it for a 4wd vehicle to take over the passes and go hunting, but we have been driving it regularly because we like it. I read in the manual that under heavy idling conditions the timing belt should be changed every 60,000 miles but it does not say for regular driving. The previous owners had work done on the timing belt at 96,000 miles.
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My transmission up shifts fine for the first couple of gears, but as I get to the last gear (I think it is the last gear), my transmission takes a while to up-shift. I am at 3000 RPM before it up-shifts then goes down to 2000 RPM on the next gear. Is there any fix that will not require a new tranny?
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I just bought a 95' 3.0 V6 4 runner that had overheating issues that caused head gasket to fail. I fixed all the reasons it was blowing the gasket with a new radiator & thermo. Now, temp no longer an issue but the automatic trans is slipping but has been getting alittle better as I drive it more. I noticed the trans fluid was pretty burnned when I replaced radiator..so will replacing the trans fluid & filter fix this issue ? Or could there be another issue ? My check engine light is also on, I will check the codes soon. I am getting horrible gas mileage, but probly from the slipping trans I guess.
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02 4runner starts and when temp start to warm kills. Car is dead. No lites, battery dead. When engine cools, power returns and lites work and engine starts normally. Problem repeats. Replaced battery and alternator.
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89 4Runner, V6 having trouble on the start up. Seems worse on the cold start after the engine has been left idle overnight or after my shift at work. I just re-cleaned my connection to my positive post and it's nice and tidy lots of spark on the meter guage but when I go to turn it over just a click. Both the box inside the cab by the front quarter and outside I can hear clicking but just a single click no solenoid for the starter tapping away. Every once in a while it will start to pick up but it seems it's got no power and then nothing back to the single click. It's even hard to jump start at this point.
Could this be the start of my starter going? The bushings going? After I get it going and drive around to where I have to and try a restart it seems to pick up just fine.
I am due to have my timing belt and cam seals done soon could this have any effect? I just had my distributer cap and rotor done and new plugs.
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2004 Toyota Forerunner, SR5 with V-6. The service engine light is on. It was diagnosed at one of the local chain parts stores as having a defective
O-2 sensor. I learned this vehicle has two sensors. The first is before the catalytic converter (the engine side). The second is after the catalytic converter (tail pipe side).
When I was under the car I saw the front sensor had evidence of minor leakage around the threads. It appeared to be a fluid stain. ??? Is there a way to determine which sensor is defective and needs replacement.
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I'm having some serious trouble with a 2000 4Runner with the 5FVZFE V-6 with 165,000mi. The engine is bogging down/ sputtering and dying on startup, won't drive over apx. 20-30mph, doesn't seem to want to shift up or down, and won't rev past 3000rpms, stopped or driving. I've been a mechanic for awhile and never seen this issue before. But here's the kicker... I'm in bfe Afghanistan, have almost no access to parts (if I do it takes quite awhile to get them and even the easy stuff is hard to find), no diagnostic comp, and only the tools in my toolbox, air compressor, and solvent tank.
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You will get wet but not scalded but is nice to get it done and not that hard. (revised).
1; Pull the cap, bottom hose, and open the petcock on a cold engine.
2; Remove the thermostat with a 10mm socket (easy) and put the housing back on lightly.
3; Install garden hose in top and turn on full blast, and turn the heater on.
4; Start the engine, grab the hanging bottom hose and push it onto the bottom radiator neck about 1/4", wait a couple minutes until the garden hose overflows at the top of the plastic radiator chamber. (yes you will get wet), pull the bottom hose loose, repeat 3-4 times until the dirty water is scavenged from the block and rad. (important step).
5; Shut off water at garden hose, stop the engine, replace the bottom hose and replace the thermostat with the 195 degree one (stock) if it hasn't been done lately. (they don't last and work well forever) The rubber O-ring goes on the top.
6; Start the engine and run the garden hose at the top the same speed as the water is coming out the petcock at the bottom. Note how clear the water is coming out and idle the engine until is runs clear. (about 10 minutes). The water might get hot at this time but you're not under the truck at this point.
7; Stop the engine, close the petcock, remove the heater hose from the front of the intake manifold, put 3 to 4 gallons of undiluted antifreeze in (50% undiluted antifreeze 50/50 will give you a range of 34 degrees BELOW zero to +265 degrees F) , fill with distilled water until the water comes out the pipe fitting on the manifold, replace hose, fill to line, and check the level every day for the next 2-3 days.
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I have a water leak in a 1990 4runner (3vze) at the back of the block i called the dealership and they said the headgasket had been done, i noticed this leak because the water is well orange rust colored to be exact my 4runner needs a new radiator but that's kind of self defeating until i fix the leak at the back of the engine, what it could be? or how to check if its the headgasket, the oil doesn't appear to have any water in it,i believe it's coming from above the head but there isn't much clearance between the injector plant and firewall.
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I have an 1990 Toyota 4Runner. V6 engine. Automatic. 4wd. Today it blew an upper radiator hose. A few seconds after the initial pop of the hose and the spew of fluids the vehicle died. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the lower hose- and refilled the antifreeze. There are no leaks as of right now.
The engine will not start. The belts spin whenever the key is turned on. But the engine will not crank. You can hear the starter trying to start it up. Jumping the vehicle was of no luck. Charging the battery was of no dice.
The vehicle makes a whirring noise (belts spinning) when key is turned, but the engine does not crank at all. The noise stops as soon as you shut the key off. The oil is clean and full still.
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Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
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My car engine wont turn over. I can hear the starter going when I turn the key but the engine wont start. My battery is old and when I read volt meter in my car the line is right in the middle. When I tried getting jump started by a friend the engine still wont turn over. I'm wondering if this is due to a bad battery that drained because of cold weather or something else. 1995 Toyota 4runner 251,900 miles...
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Jumped small wire on starter straight to battery and started right up, the starter kept running until I pulled the jumper off. Starter relay? Ignition switch?
What ever it was it must have knocked it loose because I put the small wire back on the starter and it fired right up. Crazy thing.
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I have a 92 4runner with v6 5speed Manual tranny it has the A.D.D hubs ,when I put it in 4wd its not going into 4wd the 4wd indicator in dash is not coming on ,that could be a bad bulb cause it doesn't come on when you turn key on.The transfer case is working all right .Its something in the front end that's not engaging .I noticed on the front diff. there is some kind of solenoid there with vacuum hoses and a electrical connection .Does this have anything to do with it not locking into 4wd?
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on a 93' 4 runner that will not engage 4 wheel drive. The 4 wheel manual shifter works fine, and the linkage underneath looks fine; however, the indicator does not light up - and it definately only has rear wheel drive.
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I have a problem with my 4runner, it ran good when I drove it before I deployed, not I got back and it will not run, it starts for about 30 seconds then dies, sounds like something is killing the fuel, I took the cap off the tank to see if it was clogged, but thats not the problem, it just will not stay running for longer than 30 seconds. Also I realized that the alternator was very hot for the 5-7 times I started it and had it run for 30 seconds? Oh it's a V6 3.0L 5SPD manual 4X4 by the way.
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we have just pulled out head resurfaced and put engine back together now it won't start tried the timing and checked for fuel but wont start the only way it starts now is with brake fluid in the intake but that only fires up and won't stay idle.
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I've noticed that my brakes are very sensitive lately. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the differential oil that got on the rear pads when the rear seals blew out about 3 months ago. The shop cleaned them off but they still looked oily to me. I'm also wondering if it is parking brake related as one or both of the bellcranks are frozen (there's no cable sag, but one of the stops has a gap and the parking brake doesn't work). Or is it brake fluid related. I am years past the point of needing to replace the brake fluid and bleeding out the old fluid.
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The transmission went out on my toyota 4 runner ...
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I have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
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