4Runner/GX470 :: 1990 (3vze) Water Leak Coming From Back Of Engine
Oct 25, 2004
I have a water leak in a 1990 4runner (3vze) at the back of the block i called the dealership and they said the headgasket had been done, i noticed this leak because the water is well orange rust colored to be exact my 4runner needs a new radiator but that's kind of self defeating until i fix the leak at the back of the engine, what it could be? or how to check if its the headgasket, the oil doesn't appear to have any water in it,i believe it's coming from above the head but there isn't much clearance between the injector plant and firewall.
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I have an 1990 Toyota 4Runner. V6 engine. Automatic. 4wd. Today it blew an upper radiator hose. A few seconds after the initial pop of the hose and the spew of fluids the vehicle died. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the lower hose- and refilled the antifreeze. There are no leaks as of right now.
The engine will not start. The belts spin whenever the key is turned on. But the engine will not crank. You can hear the starter trying to start it up. Jumping the vehicle was of no luck. Charging the battery was of no dice.
The vehicle makes a whirring noise (belts spinning) when key is turned, but the engine does not crank at all. The noise stops as soon as you shut the key off. The oil is clean and full still.
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WHen i open the back hatch, the light does not come on when the switch is on door but if i flip it to on it works fine...
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Here' the low down. I have a 90 4runner v6 4wd. It is intermittently making a loud rubbing noise in the front right of the truck. It starts randomly and sometimes stops on its own or will start when I hit a bump,it will stop when shifted into 4wd, or when I brake or turn hard to the right. but happens only a portion of the time. took it to mech, he removed front drive shaft and said prob went away, it seemed the vacuum pump or the solenoid that activates shifting out of 4wd is defective. So he manually switched off the 4wd replaced the front shaft and all good! but on my way home the noise began again. super frustrated, 3rd mechanic in a week.
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I have a 92 4runner with v6 5speed Manual tranny it has the A.D.D hubs ,when I put it in 4wd its not going into 4wd the 4wd indicator in dash is not coming on ,that could be a bad bulb cause it doesn't come on when you turn key on.The transfer case is working all right .Its something in the front end that's not engaging .I noticed on the front diff. there is some kind of solenoid there with vacuum hoses and a electrical connection .Does this have anything to do with it not locking into 4wd?
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89 v6 4Runner. When I turn the key forward you hear a "click" coming from the passenger side fender area. After a few turns the engine will turn over and away you go. Yesterday for the first time after a few clicks I lost all power to my instrument panel, no dash lights no gauges working and no click, nothing. Stereo, cigarette lighter still had power, even reset my dash clock so it lost all connections as well. Every few turns I would get lights back and turn the key to start and click and dead again. Eventually I bump started the engine, drove home and here I sit.
Relay box by the front fender... this is where the click is coming from, looked at a few posts from yoda tech and one person suggested cutting the no 4 line for the ignition system off the relay box and have it go directly to the pos post for the battery. This will be a closed circuit from the battery post direct to the starter relay yes?
Relay box is probably just getting old and wires are beat up. My electrical is not the best for sure. Can I just clean up the wires going to the relay box(es)?
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02 4runner starts and when temp start to warm kills. Car is dead. No lites, battery dead. When engine cools, power returns and lites work and engine starts normally. Problem repeats. Replaced battery and alternator.
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89 4Runner, V6 having trouble on the start up. Seems worse on the cold start after the engine has been left idle overnight or after my shift at work. I just re-cleaned my connection to my positive post and it's nice and tidy lots of spark on the meter guage but when I go to turn it over just a click. Both the box inside the cab by the front quarter and outside I can hear clicking but just a single click no solenoid for the starter tapping away. Every once in a while it will start to pick up but it seems it's got no power and then nothing back to the single click. It's even hard to jump start at this point.
Could this be the start of my starter going? The bushings going? After I get it going and drive around to where I have to and try a restart it seems to pick up just fine.
I am due to have my timing belt and cam seals done soon could this have any effect? I just had my distributer cap and rotor done and new plugs.
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2004 Toyota Forerunner, SR5 with V-6. The service engine light is on. It was diagnosed at one of the local chain parts stores as having a defective
O-2 sensor. I learned this vehicle has two sensors. The first is before the catalytic converter (the engine side). The second is after the catalytic converter (tail pipe side).
When I was under the car I saw the front sensor had evidence of minor leakage around the threads. It appeared to be a fluid stain. ??? Is there a way to determine which sensor is defective and needs replacement.
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I'm having some serious trouble with a 2000 4Runner with the 5FVZFE V-6 with 165,000mi. The engine is bogging down/ sputtering and dying on startup, won't drive over apx. 20-30mph, doesn't seem to want to shift up or down, and won't rev past 3000rpms, stopped or driving. I've been a mechanic for awhile and never seen this issue before. But here's the kicker... I'm in bfe Afghanistan, have almost no access to parts (if I do it takes quite awhile to get them and even the easy stuff is hard to find), no diagnostic comp, and only the tools in my toolbox, air compressor, and solvent tank.
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Just did a tear out and rebuild, installed motor, filled with water. Water is leaking out of the back of the engine somewhere. Leaking as if it were coming out of a 1/4" diameter hole. 1997 V4.6L F150. I guess I have to pull it no matter what. Cracked block? Freeze plugs were all new and installed by machine shop. Initial reason for pulling was water in cylinders and I assumed blow head gasket.
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I was flushing the radiator on my 1995 V6, 3 Liter, 5 speed. And absent mindedly, I fired up the engine for a minute to "flush" it out, but hadn't put the water/flush in it yet.
Now, the check engine light is on, it idles at about 2000 RPMs and spits smoke. I haven't run it more than 5 minutes total like this. I refilled the radiator, fired it up, no better. I drained that and tried again, but still no better.
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Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
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Have water on passenger side floorboard after a heavy rain or car wash. Seems to come from more the dash glovebox area than rocker panel. I'm aware of cleaning sunroof drains, don't think that's it.
I've removed the kick panel, can see drain, it's not too short like other post show. I realize it could be the windshield, but what about the cowl drains?
Now to the clicking noise. I hear it when AC is on recirculate, if I switch to fresh air, it stops. The temp outside or in, seems irrelevant.
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I recently purchased my 2011 F250 Powerstroke a week ago today with 87000 miles on it. the dealer assured me they did all the maintenance on the truck before i was able to drive it home. I noticed on my dash that it kept popping up i needed to change oil soon.. so i got out to investigate and realized i was about a quart low on oil so i looked around more and am seeing that i have a leak coming from the back of the engine running down to the oil pan.. I have not noticed any on on the ground at all but what this leak is coming from...
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I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.
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I've got an '05 Dodge Ram quad cab. The back window is leaking like crazy. I'm guessing it was probably replaced at some point and it wasn't caulked properly. Taking that window out and recaulking it seems like a big job. It's a 10 year old truck, so I'm not looking for perfection, but I can't have the whole truck smelling moldy either. What is a good way to put a bandaid on that? I'm thinking maybe some roofing tar or driveway crack sealer? On the other hand, water is pretty insidious. There are serious temperature and vibration issues.
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I just found a HUGE water leak in the back of my 2004.
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on a 93' 4 runner that will not engage 4 wheel drive. The 4 wheel manual shifter works fine, and the linkage underneath looks fine; however, the indicator does not light up - and it definately only has rear wheel drive.
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I have a problem with my 4runner, it ran good when I drove it before I deployed, not I got back and it will not run, it starts for about 30 seconds then dies, sounds like something is killing the fuel, I took the cap off the tank to see if it was clogged, but thats not the problem, it just will not stay running for longer than 30 seconds. Also I realized that the alternator was very hot for the 5-7 times I started it and had it run for 30 seconds? Oh it's a V6 3.0L 5SPD manual 4X4 by the way.
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we have just pulled out head resurfaced and put engine back together now it won't start tried the timing and checked for fuel but wont start the only way it starts now is with brake fluid in the intake but that only fires up and won't stay idle.
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