Escort :: 1995 Won't Start / Fired Right Up When Put Small Wire On Starter


Aug 13, 2014

Jumped small wire on starter straight to battery and started right up, the starter kept running until I pulled the jumper off. Starter relay? Ignition switch?

What ever it was it must have knocked it loose because I put the small wire back on the starter and it fired right up. Crazy thing.

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The starter cranks, fired a couple of time but will not start. Mechanic blames the key interlock ... Apparently the key contains a microchip that blocks starting... Does this sound right ?

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Now, the check engine light is on, it idles at about 2000 RPMs and spits smoke. I haven't run it more than 5 minutes total like this. I refilled the radiator, fired it up, no better. I drained that and tried again, but still no better.

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: Only Start By Giving Small Bursts Of Cranking Power To Starter When Cold

I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.

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Ford - Ranger :: 1995 - Starter Cranks / Engine Turns Over But Will Not Start

I have a 1995 Ford Ranger, manual shift. It always starts when cold, but sometimes -- very sporadic -- it will not start after I've gone somewhere. This has happened maybe 8 times over the past 18 months or so. Always, after sitting a while, it starts right up as though nothing happened. Several months ago I left it with a mechanic for an entire week, but he could never get it to act up. Of course.

In browsing through these discussions, I've seen the "starter/clutch interlock switch" mentioned. Here is my question, though. Would the starter still crank if that was the problem? or does that switch stop the starter from engaging?

When mine acts up, the starter cranks, the engine turns over ... it just acts like it's not getting fuel. Is that a starter/clutch interlock switch issue? Or something else?

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 - Truck Would Not Start / Starter Locked Up

I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.

Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.

Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.

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I drive a 1995 Ford Escort (don't laugh, even though it has 328,000 miles on it). The car is generally very reliable, despite its age. The one thing that repeatedly fails, however, is its clutch cylinders. The factory cylinders lasted about 150,000 miles. The after-market models, ever since, have failed almost like clockwork every 18,000 to 20,000 miles. Either the master or slave has had to be replaced.

The longest they've gone is about 29,000 miles, but then both had to be replaced. No mechanic who has seen this car can explain why it would eat clutch cylinders so regularly. The only clue I have is their proximity to the firewall, and this model Escort was recalled for firewall problems early in its life. Why clutch cylinders would fail so regularly, and what I might be able to do to prevent it?

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