I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
View 7 RepliesThe headlights stay on all the time & wear the battery down. I've replaced the DRL module with two new modules & neither fixed the problem. I even examined the headlight switch (some burn up at the switch), but this headlight switch & wiring look new. I even took the headlight switch out & the headlights still stayed on. I made sure that the new modules were grounded to the chasis properly.
View 11 RepliesI have a 96 Buick century that the headlights will dim during acceleration and stay dimmed till I let off the throttle. Or they will essentially blink bright and dim at highway speeds. The weird thing is, at idle, the lights are fine!
View 8 RepliesI have a 1996 ford taurus lx about 150000 miles.. When I start the car the rpm goes up then drops to like 300 rpm then goes back up then back down.. Now if I hold on to gas pedal the car runs fine then and I don't have any codes.....
View 8 RepliesI bought a 2005 Ford Taurus last month with a bad A/C clutch. I had a friend, who says he knows about such things, replace just the clutch. He says he lost no refrigerant, which should be right. The A/C blows cold OK regardless of the ambient temperature, but the new clutch clicks in and out. I was of the opinion that this was caused by a low charge.
My (not always right) friend thinks it's normal, due to the cooler weather. I THINK the compressor should run all the time, and the car's interior temp is regulated by the flapper doors. I have no way to capture the present charge and weigh in the exact amount needed. I have accurately weighed in an additional 8 ozs, with a good digital scale, and it still clicks in and out. I have readings of 125/25, but the outside temp is only 50F this morning.
What readings should I see at 50F? Do I still need more R134a?
I put a new ignition cylinder the key won't come out at all. I was told that the key needs to come out in order for them to code the key. How do I get the key out of the ignition??
View 12 Replies96 Taurus 3.0 liter OHV will not shift out of Park. I tried the workaround in the owners manual where you take the key out, re-insert it, turn it to the OFF position then start car in neutral, but shifter still will not come out of Park. Fuse #5 is fine, and all my brake lights work. Steering wheel is not locked.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
I have a buddy with an '87 Taurus. V6 3.0 Vulcan Engine. He is having the hardest of time trying to set the ignition timing.The torque strut "roll restrictor "is in the way.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 ford taurus dohc v6 147239 miles..when i get over 60 mph my overdrive light starts flashing and the car still drives find..i did have new transmission fluid and new fillter put in and the light was coming on before i did that and still comes on when i get over 60 mph.
View 1 RepliesMy 1996 Taurus has 202,000 miles on it. One day a while back I was headed home from work. I had the AC on and fan on HIGH. I all of a sudden started smelling something hot. I threw my sunglasses into the passenger seat and saw a gray haze in my interior and slammed on the brakes and pulled over thinking my car was on fire. I got out quickly and looked under the car and then under the hood. I then followed the HOT ELECTRICAL smell to passenger side floorboard under dash. Blower motor part so I changed it. The weather got cool again so i didn't need AC for a couple of weeks. Now, ANYTIME I try to put the fan on HIGH I get that hot electrical smell. The fan has 4 settings, on the first three it's fine, but as soon as you put it on high it smells very hot. My AC isn't as cold as it used to be but it was like that before the fan motor gave trouble. I think I just need to charge the system. Why my fan motor gets/smells hot on high setting. No fuses has blown. I definitely don't want to burn this motor up. I got new fan motor that has the same electrical connection so I didn't have to splice anything. Is something overloading??
View 6 Replies1996 Ford Taurus 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl...... Every time I try to start the car it want start less I push on the gas pedal... Then its start to sputter really bad then dies.. I put new spark plugs in and new spark plug wires.. I do hear the fuel pump turn on... Car has about 147000 miles...
View 13 RepliesI have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
View 12 RepliesMy son's 99 Taurus didn't want to start. At first thought it was a dead battery because of something left on, but jumping it didn't work. It starter was clicking like the solenoid was going out. Finally it did start and turned over fast like there wasn't a problem. I shut it off and restarted it again, no problem. Tried it a 3rd time and it wouldn't start again. Sometimes it clicked when I turned the key and sometimes it wouldn't do anything. Finally I had the wife turn on the headlights and turn the key while I stood in front to see if the headlights dimmed. The first time she tried it, the headlights went completely out. Not just dim, but completely off. The car started just fine after that and has been starting just fine ever since. Why this is?
View 3 Replies2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
View 1 RepliesI have a 93 taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. After I start my car up with my foot on the brake it won't shift into gear from park. But if I pump the brakes a few times it will then go into gear. What is wrong with my car?
View 7 RepliesCan I replace a non-heated passenger side view mirror with a heated one?
View 5 RepliesHow are they connected?
View 8 RepliesHaving a problem with the fuel pump engaging. Warm or cold same problem. When I turn the ignition on I can hear the fuel pump engage and the car runs fine on start. Other times I turn the ignition on and don't hear the pump engage, thus no start. But repeatedly turning the ignition on an off I get the fuel pump to engage and I have start, will run until I shut it down. been doing this for a couple of weeks now. Is this an ignition thing or fuel pump? No wiring diagram. Replaced all relays, battery good. Never did anything with the fuel system.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Taurus wagon (a real babe magnet) that has 63K on it. On random occasions recently, I turn the key to start it and there is dead silence--no groans, no clicks, nada. This happened for the second time last week at a tire shop, and the technician had me hold the key in the start position while he tapped the starter with a metal rod, which worked miraculously. He showed me where the starter was and how to perform this miracle. Unfortunately it is a two-person job, and I was stranded the next evening alone at my house, and missed work the next day. Later that day it started right up like nothing had happened.
It stranded me again two days later, and nice lady in the parking lot held the key in start position while I used my cane to tap the starter as I had been shown. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem and my temporary solution, hoping they would know from this exactly how to fix it. After four days, they said they could not duplicate the problem, that the car started right up every time they tried it. Meanwhile the car I had borrowed from a friend broke down in a busy intersection, stranding me again for a short while. I went back to the dealer and brought the Ford home, figuring there isn't much to do but play the odds....Logic suggests that because tapping the starter seems to get it to go, that the problem must be in the starter. Yet the guys at the dealership wouldn't touch anything until the car refused to start for them. Where does one go (or in this case, possibly not go) from here?
Car started losing electrical power on the way home from work last week. Dim lights, blower stopped, wipers stop, almost stalled out when getting off the interstate. Barely made it home. 30 minutes later went out to troubleshoot and it started right up. Ran for about 2 minutes and stalled out from lack of electricity. Put voltmeter to alternator and it seemed to only be putting out 8.5v. Took to store to have tested. Replaced alternator and it didn't work. Reman alternator still seemed to only be putting out 8.5v or so.
Checked fuses and cleaned battery terminal and verified good block ground and good body ground. Still having problem. 1996 Taurus. What next? Battery is exactly 2 yrs old and was putting out 11.6 when the problem first started last week. Due to cold and this existing issue, battery is only at 6.5v right now. Can jump the car, but then after removing jumper cables car dies in 30 seconds. Should I have the battery tested? What else could/should I be looking at?