Ford - Taurus :: 1999 - Headlights Starter Reset
Aug 20, 2012
My son's 99 Taurus didn't want to start. At first thought it was a dead battery because of something left on, but jumping it didn't work. It starter was clicking like the solenoid was going out. Finally it did start and turned over fast like there wasn't a problem. I shut it off and restarted it again, no problem. Tried it a 3rd time and it wouldn't start again. Sometimes it clicked when I turned the key and sometimes it wouldn't do anything. Finally I had the wife turn on the headlights and turn the key while I stood in front to see if the headlights dimmed. The first time she tried it, the headlights went completely out. Not just dim, but completely off. The car started just fine after that and has been starting just fine ever since. Why this is?
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2001 F250 SD 4x4,V10, auto, 156K miles
Truck was idling getting ready for work. Went into the Garage to grab my coat. on the way out heard a TERRIBLE noise, and the headlights dimmed down a bit.
I heard the noise a 2nd time, it was the starter trying to reengage! I promptly shut it off and waited a few minutes, but the same thing happened!
I pulled the control wire off of the solenoid, and (still running in Park) everything seemed "OK". To see if the solenoid was bad/stuck, or if there was still voltage on the control side, I touched the connection,and with the engine still running, the solenoid re engaged!
"Something" is telling the starter to 'start'! When I shut the thing down, and pull the key, it seems normal EXCEPT I can faintly see the Battery, and ABS lights illuminated in the dash cluster. I pulled the negative Battery cable off, and that is how it sits right now. Very strange to me. The truck ran great on a 5 hour trip just this past weekend.
Looking for a legit wiring Diagram for this year of truck?
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I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
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How are they connected?
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The headlights stay on all the time & wear the battery down. I've replaced the DRL module with two new modules & neither fixed the problem. I even examined the headlight switch (some burn up at the switch), but this headlight switch & wiring look new. I even took the headlight switch out & the headlights still stayed on. I made sure that the new modules were grounded to the chasis properly.
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A few weeks ago, I had to replace the starter in my 2002 Camry V6. On its way out, it also fried my AM1 fuse. Well, I bought a starter at Advance (admittedly the cheapest one they had). Now the cars runs great. But every so often the starter either will not crank or it will sound like someone is rapidly turning the it on and off.
Anyway, It's only done that 3 times since I replaced the starter. Here's the weird part. Every time it does that, the stereo and the clock get reset.
I took it to a shop to get diagnosed, but it was acting fine at the time, so the mechanic wasn't able to find anything. He suggested that it was probably the cheap starter, though.
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Had the Ex (2000 Limited V10 134K) about a month now, doing some reading in the FTE, saw the thread about wire chaffing in the steering column related to the gear shift selector and overdrive. Well, everything else has been chaffed on this truck so far I figured I better look at that too. They are chaffed right at the bottom of the base of the selector, not much wire to work with, might just replace.
I put everything back together and no issues. The next morning, I drove it and no issues until at work, put it in reverse (to park next to the bosses pretty new red Titan, picked that up from You Might Drive and Ex If) and the starter engaged. Got it parked, starter playing with switches for it to repeat, found that with the keys in my hand and turning on the headlight switch on (park or headlight position) the engine would start turning over, turn the key on and the headlights on and the EX starts, started stayed engaged until headlights are turned back off. Reverse only engaged the starter when the engine was running, when not running neutral safety switch kicked in telling me it works.
Searches had me reading in other in another place that there are wires that go from the headlight switch to the steering column specifically heavier guage blue wire with red or pink stripe "I think".
So last night I took the column covers back off and started chasing wires. As I was moving wires looking for the short I kept turning the light switch on and off as I wanted to know if and when I found the short. Evidently, I found it because the headlight switch and reverse stopped engaging the starter. I never did find the actual short. So the chipmunk has been chased from my wood pile but for how long?
I left everything in the column until the problem went away so to speak. I took the turn signal selector out inspected both connectors and wires and went about 6 inches back into the wiring harness, I found nothing, the turn signal selector had no impact on the started engaging.
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My 1999 Ford Taurus (140,000 miles) is giving me trouble. This usually happens when I have just driven off the freeway and now am driving in stop and go street traffic. The O/D light indicates it is off. The odometer stops working. The needle on the tachometer slowly accelerates. The speedometer remains stuck at zero. The engine sounds like it it straining to work.I fear that this is going to be an expensive repair; I hesitate taking it to my Ford dealership. My family's trusted auto repair shop technicians seem perplexed by this problem. They hint that this might have something to do with my turbo engine.
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I put a new ignition cylinder the key won't come out at all. I was told that the key needs to come out in order for them to code the key. How do I get the key out of the ignition??
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My Grandaughter's husband just HAD to install another radio and amp and speakers in his car. Now the speedometer won't work. Does that car have a speedo cable or is it electronic? It is not digital.
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I have a 99 Taurus with the airbag lite on. has 110,000 miles. had it in the shop and they said there is power up to the fuse box, but there is an "open" somewhere in the wiring. I have heard that the steering wheel is the most likely culprit.
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My 1999 ford taurus station wagon has recently been stalling out while I'm driving. It happens usually after a 30-40 minute drive on my way home from school. There is no warning the car sounds great, and none of the lights come on. The car tends to stall either when I've braked to slow down for a light or I've stopped in general. Also it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour before I can restart the car, after the stall if I try to start it, it sounds like its trying to catch but it cant. My mechanic is unable to figure it out and we both don't want to just start swapping out parts needlessly. My car has a V6 is a front wheel drive and has 93529 miles on it.
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I have a 1999 Ford Taurus and a month ago I replaced the V-belt (which I think is the serpentine) and had the transmission fluid changed. This past Monday (March 7, 2011) I drove an hour to work on the highway going 70mph for about 35 minutes then successively lower speeds as the weather was getting worse closer to town. When I parked the car, I noticed smoke coming from the grill at the front of the car. It did have a sort of burning rubber smell. The temp gage on the dashboard registered normal. So, what kind of repair am I in for?
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My 1999 Ford Taurus has been dying randomly at any given time. I have changed the fuel filter, top grade fuel, fuel cleaner, and it has thrown no codes. It will start and run, and I will drive down the road just a mile and the first thing that happens is the wheel locks up, the battery light comes on, then all others. It turns over and over and will not start, let it rest for a few hours and it will start again and do the same thing. some times it will go a few days with no problems, then it will go only a few minutes. Next thing on my list is change plugs and wires because I do not have much money so am just guessing at cheap things and hoping for the best. What this could be to make it stall at random times, not throw the engine light off?
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I came out from work this afternoon to a dead battery in my '99 Taurus. I saw nothing left turned on. I got a jump and went to Autozone two miles away. By that time there was enough charge to restart the car. My battery checked good, but they said the car had a 4-1/2 amp draw when it was shut off. The alternator still put out over 60 amps when reved up. That's good. Can a bad alternator on a modern car run the battery down? I know the old ones did sometimes, but I thought they "fixed" that aspect of them several years ago.
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On a'99 Taurus, the fuel gauge works sometimes. I am quite sure it is the sender unit. Is there possibly a way to replace it without removing the fuel tank. Like thru the trunk floor?
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I got a 99 Ford Taurus and recently I wanted to remove the wheel to see if I can change the front breaks myself. When I opened the trunk to get the jack, to my surprise, the recess where the spare wheel is stored (below the ‘carpet’ in the trunk) was full of water, I am talking a couple of inches deep! The spare wheel itself, which is relatively new and rarely used, was completely ruptured.I don’t know where the water could have come from.
I suppose it could have been rain, but the cardboard boxes that were stored in the trunk (above the ‘carpet’) were not wet. To drain the water out, I found a big (2” x 3”) hole in the bottom of the trunk that is plugged with a rubber plug. I removed the plug and let the water drain. But now I am just puzzled. Where did the water come from? And how come there are no drain holes in the bottom of the trunk? And why did the spare wheel rupture? And how can I prevent all this from happening again?
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I have a '99 Ford Taurus that was hesitating and sputtering while driving. I had the fuel pump replaced about a week ago thinking my problem was solved. Lo and behold, while driving about 50mph and trying to pass vehicles, my car started doing the same thing. It acts as though I have bad fuel or there is dirt somewhere that is entering my gas line.
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The sunroof on my 99 ford taurus has a dead motor as of yesterday and it's going to rain today! It is stuck in the tilted up position, is there anyway to manually close it until it can be repaired?
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I have this weird problem that the car suddenly stops running while on the road. It has happened 3 times in the past 14 months. Every time it happened, my speed was less than 10 mph in slow traffic. And it was after I had driven over 15 minutes on the highway without any signs of trouble. The check engine light and low engine oil light would come on while the stall happened. After the stall, the car would not start. But after 20 minutes or so, the car would start normally, and it would run without any problem for months.
I have brought the car to a mechanic to diagnose the problem. I was told that it might have been caused by a faulty exhaust valve. The valve was replaced 5 months ago, but the stall happened again earlier this week. About a month ago the starter died and I went to a different shop to replace it. I was told that the cover gasket was leaky but it should not cause noticeable problem. After the starter replacement, I also started to notice that the car would occasionally vibrate abnormally for about 30 seconds after starting. I am not sure whether this is related to the stalling problem.
I cannot tell whether it is an engine problem or an electrical problem that is causing the engine to stall.
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Two autumns ago I lost heat and discovered I had no coolant because the reservoir had cracked. Replaced the reservoir and life was warm again. The following autumn, same thing. Replaced the reservoir AGAIN. The mechanic showed me where it had bulged out on the side, and said if this new one looks like it is swelling out also, then there is a deeper problem, like maybe a leaking head gasket. Well, it is definitely bulging on the side again. I mentioned this problem to my male co-workers and they were puzzled and also thought the mechanic's suggestion was incorrect.
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