Tiguan :: 2013 Vehicle Started Downshifting In A Harsh Manner - Transmission Done
Jul 25, 2016
Yesterday my 2013 R-Line started downshifting in a harsh manner. Vehicle has been serviced regularly every 8,000 km in accordance with the VW Maintenance Schedule as outlined in the Owners Manual. It is also completely stock and daily driven (mostly highway).
Today I took it to have it checked out as I suspected the TCU might be the problem. As it turns out they said that the entire Transmission needs to be replaced. I have 108,000 km on the odometer now so the Canadian Warranty has expired (100,000km)
I was absolutely gutted as it seems absurd that an automatic transmission would fail with relatively low mileage. My old MkV GTI with a DSG is still going with over 300,000 km.
This is my second Tiguan in the past 3 years. I have also owned a MkV GTI and also currently own a Mk6 Golf R. I have always been good to all of my VWs(maintenance) and they have always been reliable until now.
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Have an unfortunate circumstance. '03 Camry XLE 4cyl with 188k on it and the trans just went crazy. Was on the interstate and it started downshifting. Wouldn't stay up in the gear it was before and eventually wouldn't go out of 1st or 2nd gear.
Haven't had shifting issues in the past and trans fluid has been changed regularly at no more than 30k mile intervals.
Worst part is that this was on the way to vacation, so the car was towed to Ft. Walton Toyota. They are saying the trans is slipping and it needs a rebuild. Seems very odd to me that the issue would come on this fast with no earlier signs. A valve cover gasket was replaced a couple weeks ago, but I don't see how that could be the cause.
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Heard a clunk and then have the car feel like something from the inside is trying to stop it when using the paddle shifters in manual mode. Specifically when downshifting from 2 to 1. By the way I did a slight throttle blip, I have done this before with very smooth results but this time it really scared me, I though the transmission broke for a second; when the car did what it did.
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i drained the 30000 mile fluid two weeks ago because it was harsh downshifting when coming to a stop... I was curious if others noticed a lot of metal sludge sticking to the magnetized drain plug???..
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I purchased a new 2015 Santa Fe Sport 2.4L ... transmission/acceleration issue. It's possible I just haven't had enough time to get use to this car but it seems to hesitate when I press the accelerator. Also, the transmission seems to annoyingly down-shift when I step on the break slightly or with a slight decrease in speed. Overall I love the car but I just wanted to see if this is something I just need to get use to or if I should be concerned?
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I just picked up a 2013 SEL CPO, I noticed after I took the car home the brakes starting squeaking, I took it back and the Service Advisor told me this was a known issue and the only thing they could do is so put some crap I don't know what he said but he said it was but it would wear off and start squeaking again...
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I have notice maybe a dozen times in the last few weeks that my 2013 5.0 Screw downshifts at odd times. It usually occurs while coasting around 35-40 mph (in 4th gear and downshifts to 2nd gear) or around 50 mph (in 5th gear and downshifts to 3rd gear). Obviously when this occurs, the rpms jump and when I get into the gas, the truck takes a few seconds to accelerate because it first must shift into the next higher gear. What is causing this?
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My transmission started jerking into 2nd and out of 2nd when it shifts. It only has 20k miles on it and has not been driven hard at all. I heard of some people doing resets on the transmission,.
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I've had my 2013 Tiguan since July and have always noticed that it needlessly wants to downshift when going down hills. For instance, I might be doing 45-50mph down a hill... it'll be in 6th or 5th gear. If I tap the break, it downshifts. If I tap it again, it'll downshift again, to THIRD gear. The RPMs will shoot up to over 4,000. This also usually occurs if I put my foot on the break and keep there. So, if I'm on hilly roads... which is often being in Northwestern Connecticut, I'll engage the tiptronic.
Am I overreacting and is this just how the '13 Tiguan functions? Or is it a common problem with a fix?
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We have a 2010 Tiguan SEL 4 motion automatic and today it just died after i pulled out of parking spot. the only light on the dash was the battery light. I restarted once i put it in neutral. When driving home my wife and i notice it was not downshifting when going down hill or when coming to a stop. This is not the usual behavior. It also seemed like it was costing in neutral when i was not in the throttle. I dropped it off at my usual dealer and hopefully they can duplicate it.
I am wondering if the battery or alternator is bad and the transmission computer was not getting good voltage and that made it act funny.
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I was driving around some very steep hilly highways recently. I have tried this in both cruise control and normal coasting.
I noticed that the Tiguan will automatically downshift when going down a steep enough incline and a certain higher speed is automatically reached. Whether that is based on what was set by your cruise control, or even when letting the car coast down by releasing the gas peddle, it will still reach a point of downshifting automatically.
What I hate about it though is that this downshifting causes the engine to suddenly rev very high RPMs. Its also pretty loud at that point. That's bad for the transmission system right?
Usually in automatic mode driving, gear shifts up at around 2,500 RPM (mostly around 2000 RPM point). But when you are going downhill in a steep incline, the Tiguan automatically goes to a lower gear causing the RPM to shoot right up. I've had mine go up to 4,000 RPM downhill and the engine screams and spins really fast as you can clearly hear. It of course does the job of keeping the car at a certain speed, but is this bad for the transmission?
I mean, I prefer pressing on the breaks to control speed downhill. Break pads are cheap and easily replaceable. Transmission strain and failure is a whole other business. So I would prefer the strain be placed on my breaks and not my transmission system for the purposes of controlling speeds downhill. The latter failure mode will be the case if they rely on the transmission to control speed downhill.
So what is a "happy RPM" for the engine anyway? What RPM is the 2.0T engine at its most efficient?
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Didn't notice this on the test drive, but as soon as I started living with my Santa Fe (about 3-4 weeks now) I can't believe how harsh and rough the ride is. Very very uncompromising over all road irregularities - even those you can't even really see. 2013 Santa Fe Sport?
It's so bad I've been searching for aftermarket struts and shocks to replace what must be garbage OEM parts - but nothing seems to be available for it yet.
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I have a 2012 2.5 with auto trans and am experiencing a problem. After coming to a stop and easing pressure from the brake pedal, if you re-apply pressure you feel a harsh engagement of the transmission, feels like you put it in neutral and then back in drive. Sometimes it will do it while stopped with no change in pedal pressure and feels like someone rear ended you.
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I just bought a 2010 Santa Fe. All seems fine except that when the car is cold it goes into R harshly (with a bump and a small delay)and also is a little bit irregular in normal gear. I'm used to have cars with transmission problems unfortunately and happily it's nothing like that but I'd really finally like to have a vehicle without any tranny issues.
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I bought a 2010 GLS 4cyl and within the first week started having shifting issues. Initially it was only when it was colder than 30 degrees outside and would only shift harshly between 1st and 2nd. Once I had driven a few miles and warmed the car up, everything was OK. It's still an intermittent issue, but now it will do it when outside morning temps are in the 50's and 60's.
I've read the TSB for 6cyl 09's and saw a post in the Santa Fe forum that sounded identical, so at least I'm not the first to experience this.
I took it back to the dealership knowing it probably would not shift badly when they test drove it because we had run out of cold mornings. I picked the car up after they reset adaptive learning and said there were no updates available for the computer. (And also being told I had bad gas in the car. Another story for another time...)
Until it starts doing it at fairly regular intervals, there isn't any use taking back to the dealership as it's very inconvenient for me to get there.
I checked the link that had TSB's and didn't see anything for the 2010's. Also, is there any place where I could check and see when software updates come out and what issues are addressed?
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I have the 2000 passat 1.8L 4 cylinder with the tiptronic shifting. The car has been shifting less smoothly both upshifting and down. I have noticed that if you are going fast and slow suddenly, say for a light and the downshifting does not go smoothly the vehicle can lurch/jump even if the brakes are firmly applied.
What may be causing this issue. I recently sold my MKIV which was a great car and we are now starting to have small problems with this passat with 104,000 miles on it. It does not intuitively feel that the tranny is worked over yet, but I would like to avoid any expensive repairs/replacement. I have done everything from suspension, door replacement, clutches and timing belts on other vw's. So I am hoping to tackle this myself.
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I installed a Morimoto Elite HID system in my car. Testing it out I noticed that while the car is off, but the ignition is on, the lights work flawlessly. Once I started the car up the driver's side light flickers and there's a harsh buzzing noise coming from the relay.
You may be thinking to yourself, "This is an easy one, he just needs a capacitor" ....but the thing is, I also installed a capacitor with it. The power from the stock headlights plugs into a cable that runs through the rubber flange (that fills the hole you make in the back of the housing cap) directly into the capacitor. The output from the capacitor then runs into the relay. I believe this is the correct setup.
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed auto
Been having a harsh 1-2 upshift issue lately. Had my car into a transmission shop as the dealer keeps saying nothing is wrong and the shop told me they got a p1603 code. Is this a problem and what should I do?
The mechanics writing was bad so I am unsure if it is p1603 or p1e03. I have tried looking up the code and it is a variety of things. One says engine stall history? All I remember doing recently is disconnecting the battery to try and reset the transmission computer and after the first start the car stalled then it started fine.
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I have been having phantom automatic transmission problems with occasional harsh shifting, mostly up shifting through all the gears but sometimes downshifting. This problem started in May 2014, lasted off and on for several days, and then stopped occurring. There had been a few instances of small drops of fluid on my carport but nothing consistent. Then in September, the problem started again on the same basis: on/off again, nothing consistent. When I couldn’t locate the port under the hood to check the transmission fluid, I took the Elantra to the Boise Hyundai dealership to ask where the trans fluid port was located. My service rep told me that there was no port in the new vehicles and that the transmission fluid was not changed until 100,000 miles at a cost of $400. The service technicians could not find anything wrong with the vehicle when they hooked it up to their computers to check the error codes, and the vehicles would not perform the harsh shifting when they test drove the car. The techs re-set the adaptive points and I was sent on my way. A few days later, the harsh shifting started again on and off, phantom problem. I took the Elantra back into the dealership and told them to keep it for as many days as it took for a tech to drive it home and start it cold in the morning. The transmission did not perform the harsh shifting for the 80 miles the tech drove it home and back to the dealership for three days.
After driving the Elantra another week, the phantom trans problems re-occurred. After surfing the web and checking the Hyundai Customer Forum, all I could find was problems with 2010 Elantra transmissions and my service tech admitted that Hyundai had replaced thousands of 2010 transmissions.
Through the dealership I opened a Case File for my transmission problems because there is something definitely wrong with the vehicle and I want a new transmission, and will press my case to the max. I’ve kept a log since September, noted daily temperatures, and times the trans has performed harsh shifting. I’ve kept the problem to a minimum by letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes and will only drive it when the tachometer needle rests on 1,000 rpms.
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I have a 2005 Elantra where my transmission went. The tranny had a harsh upshifting when driving, also had it in the shop four times because it was hard to get into Park or Drive. Shop said they never could find a problem.. Did some checking on internet, the Accent and Elantra shared the same transmission I believe, and found a TSB describing trans axle solenoid problems from 1999 to 2006. I am going to fight this as I don't think I should have to pay for a factory defect.
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Noticed cup holders above the transmission a little warm. I have a 2011 hyundai sonata se; when I drove a regular sonata I didn't notice the cup holder getting as warm as my car.
I have also started to notice that the transmission shifts into 1st gear a little harsh vs the rental sonata as well. I did do my own transmission drain and fill with Amsoil fluid. Why its shifting like this?
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