Touareg :: 2004 - Radiator Fan Still Runs Even Engine Is Off?


Mar 25, 2016

I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.

But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.

I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop

(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).

And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.

I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model,

Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.

One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.

I have two questions,

1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)

2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive, I'm just worried if that battery can solve the problem.

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Touareg :: Radiator Fan Runs After The Engine Is Off

I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.

But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.

I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop.

Here is the previous battery link. [URL] .....

(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).

And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.

I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model. [URL] ....

Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.

If this is a normal situation, I checked online, a lot of people don't take it serious and say it is the way it's designed to be. One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.

I have two questions,

1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)

2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive.

View 3 Replies

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I have a 1990 Toyota pick up and, even though I have had the radiator removed and tested twice for leaks, I still loose fluid. I drive 30 miles - after having filled the radiator to the top - and then find it empty. The overflow radiator fluid bottle is always full to the top but the radiator will not stay full. My radiator man has told me to place a large piece of cardboard under the car to see if there are any leaks - there are non. I pay more in coolant than I do in fuel!

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The radiator fan on my '11 Escape only runs on high. When the car is cold, the radiator fan does not come on. But as it warms up, the fan does seem to come on at the right time. But when it does, it is pretty loud and runs very fast. I assume it's running on high, because I don't recall whether or not there is a low. Both fans appear to be running, so I'm thinking both fan relays are good. Perhaps the main relay (30C) has gone bad?

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How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?

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Title sums up the whole post. My Prius tends to use a bit of oil, I don't know the exact numbers just that it can't go without a couple top-offs between 10k oil changes. As much as I love this car it's because of that fact it will be sold after it's paid off as I've never seen a car that uses oil and yet drips none onto the ground.

Anyways it's because of its oil consumption and me not being used to having a car that needs its hood opened between oil changes that I've worried and wondered if I forgot to check it and it gets low enough to make the oil pressure drop will the hybrid system turn the engine off assuming I'm going slow enough for it to do so? I understand if I'm going over ~40mph the engine has to be spinning to prevent MG1 from over-revving.

So lets say I'm doing 65 on the interstate and the triangle lights up then I slow down and come to a stop will it prevent the engine from turning back on, or I'm sitting at a light and the engine is running because the heater is on then the oil pressure drops will it prioritize protecting the engine over the heater? Or is it like a typical car it will warn me but it's up to me to stop the car and turn the engine off as fast as I can to lessen the damage that is being done?

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I thought maybe it was because it's cold-- we've dipped to single digits, but have been above 30 or so the last week or two and has only happened in the past two or three days. It happens at start up and at the end of my hour long commute to work. I've turned off the defrost and heat and it still does this.

She's a 2005 and has just over 105,000 miles. I just had her oil changed, a fuel injection cleaning and spark plugs replaced two days ago and had the inverter serviced and recommended transmission work done at 100,000 miles. Her water pump was replaced in the last year with the recall. I just replaced the air filter. There are no warning lights, so I"m not sure if anything would show up with the codes. I'm worried because it did not do this previously, and started to as soon as I got the car back from the injector cleanings and plug work...

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After it does this over and over about 6 times the Check Engine Light comes on and it doesn't jerk so hard, but stumbles kinda mildly, but all the time - though usually by this time I have gotten off the road and am swearing loudly.The Honda mechanics are running the clock RIGHT NOW and it may cost me a fortune - Also, there is no error code showing. Nothing. And I also replaced some relays, to no avail, because I read about cracked solder problems someplace...

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What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?

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Believe an engine temperature sensor is bad. I took it in to get a code read, and they said it could be either temp sensor or fan switch, but didn't know which one without newer software.

Codes are
19537 - Engine Temperate too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal

I've checked the fuse legend to see if there is a fuse I can pull, but none of them marked fan seem to kill it after the car is off, so that I can save some battery power.

I believe that I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. What is the level of job this is to replace? From a parts location manual, it looks like it is in the Thermostat housing, but I'm not sure where that is.

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