Touareg :: Assorted Rattle And Persistent Shimmy In The Wheel At Certain Speeds
Nov 3, 2003
I got my Egg on 8/5/03. I have almost 10,000 miles on it, and other than an assorted rattle and a persistent shimmy in the wheel at certain speeds, despite rebalancing and rotation at 7,000 miles, I love it. It's quick, handles very well, and rides great. It's a topic of conversation everywhere, and while this is a matter of opinion and as I value mine I'll give it to y'all, it is one of the best looking SUVs made.
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2010 FJ Cruiser has an intermittent shimmy that you can feel in the steering wheel at highway speeds. Noticed it not long after new tires. Go around a long curve and it starts, then stays until you go around another curve and then stops. It is as if the wheels have to align a certain way for some harmonic effect. I had the tires rebalanced and rotated. My mechanic said they balanced up very well. Shimmy is better but not gone. Wierdest thing is that when it happens, if I keep my foot on the gas and gently press the brake the shimmy stops and the returns as soon as I let up on the brake. When I asked my mechanic if it could be 2 slightly warped rotors he said the shimmy would be worse braking not better.
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99 Pontiac Montana.... I feel a shimmy in my steering wheel at all speeds....
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My wife just purchased an 04 w/27k miles in superb condition two months ago. This is a California car that had no mountain or winter weather service.
We live in Colorado & do a lot of mountain driving. At speeds above 65mph going down hill the steering wheel slightly vibrates or shimmies under heavy braking. The car is always heavily loaded.
Original brakes w/ well over 50% lining. I have not put a dial indicator on the disc surfaces.
CV joint boots are tight & no grease leakage.
Tires are wearing perfectly, so I do not think it is an alignment issue.
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Well I've been noticing that when I'm slowing down from higher speeds (50 mph or so) my steering wheel is shimmying a bit. Also I just started to hear my front passenger brake squeal a little. Well when I went to visually check the brakes, the pads seem VERY thick! Is it normal for them to start to go bad even with such thick pads? They are like 1cm thick. Also the rotors did seem used for sure, maybe 1mm worn down or so from the outer lip which is raised (I hope you understand what I mean), but they weren't scoured or anything. I suppose they could still be warped? I figured with such big brakes I wouldn't run into that problem. The car has 70k on it and the pads have been replaced once and rotors turned at 25k by the previous owner.
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe Limited that has 93k on it. Within the last year I have noticed the steering wheel will shimmy when you apply the brakes at high speeds, it's slowly came to the point now that anything above 40mph will cause the steering wheel to shake while applying the brakes. I am guessing I have warped or unevenly worn front rotors. The car supposedly had a break job done at 74k and this started happening at about the 90k mark.
I was looking at these : Front Performance Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for Santa FE 07 09
Second question, any tool list or required sockets sizes to complete a front rotor and pad replacement? I have a floor jack, jack stands, a set of 3/8 deep metric sockets. I also have a breaker bar. This is my only car so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start taking stuff apart.
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Wheel Balance 18" Wheels with there T-Reg? I have a slight shimmy @ around 68-75. Had it balanced twice with no luck. The dealer doesn't have a good Hunter Road Force Machine? Other than that love the T-Reg.
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What this might be. I have a rattle type noise coming from behind the glovebox. It is only there at low speeds and driving on poorly paved roads. It is definitely not in the glovebox. It has been driving me crazy for some time now...
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2007 Touareg with 19",V6, with 10,700 miles
Problem: Noise or rattle in engine compartment, at low speed (less than 25miles/hour) on uneven pavement (not potholes). Can be replicated over and over.
The dealer acknowledge the noise and has tightened all suspension parts, greased all joints, replace front-right shock and bushings (for some reason the noise is more prevalent on Right side), put some sort of tool with sensors in different areas of the chassis to "hear" noise differences while driving to determine the culprit.
Description: To me, the noise sounds like there is something lose in either the engine compartment or the area where the wipers are located. Sort of like if there was something (plastic maybe) hitting the chassis (only at slow speeds - I cannot hear it when driving faster I guess because of engine and road noise). I have not been able to figure it out.
The noise was present only on another 2007 with 8K miles.
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My 14 C2 has this persistent rattle from the glove box hinge. It's that single plastic hinge extender for smoothly opening the glove box. I've taken it out and re-settled it into the box socket but the rattle is starting again when going over bumps... Is it just mine?
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Under your Prius, you have "guards" made of plastic and held in place by fasteners that unscrew off but press onto the bolt studs coming down from the metal. They basically shield the underside from debris but have holes to let water flow back out.
I had a persistent squeak for the last couple of weeks that was really annoying me. So, I set out to see what I could do about it. I thought I'd have to add an adhesive pad as a "bumper" between two parts, but when I tapped on the guard (reproducing the noise), I could tell there was a lot of pea gravel in there.
It took a while to get the first fastener off. They don't just "unscrew" that easily. The slightest pressure and you wind up pushing them back on. So, I had to work with two tools with one being a screwdriver gently prying it away from the panel so each turn made it come farther off the bolt. Once the first one was done, the rest were easy. Three in total on each side.
I got a cereal bowl full of pea gravel out of each guard. I was shocked that so much road debris was trapped up on there, but this stuff was big enough to not flow out with the water.
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I have a persistent rattle in the glove box. Have tightened the 7 screws which improved it somewhat, but it's still there when I go over bumps.
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I have a 2014 Prius v that I bought new in January 2014. I've had this persistent rattle which seemed like it was coming from the back seat behind the driver. I've taken the rear seat partially apart and glued and shimmed things to no avail. I've emptied the entire contents of the rear storage area and it still rattled on. Anyhow I've had this rattle for six months now. Turns out the noise is coming from under the car just ahead of the rear tire where some body type plastic which juts down about 2". This piece rattles when against the frame just ahead of where one would put a jack for lifting the car. I've temporarily stuffed some old paper napkins, which were handy, between the plastic piece and the frame. Noise is gone! I'll eventually remove the napkins and then load up the area with silicone. I'm doing both sides of the car just in case.
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After driving our 2013 Passat for 215 miles, we noticed that there was a rattling noise coming from the left front wheel area but only at slow speeds (under 10 mph). The noise disappeared at higher speeds. Today, we took the car to the dealership but they could not find anything wrong.
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I had a persistent soft rattle that sounded like it was coming from the dash area. Looked there, pulled the glove box off, taped a wire, and padded where the glove box meets the dash board, padded my right hand mud flap, and padded the glove box door upper RH corner, all to no good effect. Then just a few days ago I pushed the shotgun seat forward and reclined the seat back all the way.
The next day I looked under the seat. There are three yellow plastic electrical connectors that control the airbag and sensor. They are surprisingly rickety by design. Double side taping a 1.5 thick inch soft foam pad on top of the connectors, between them and the underside of the seat did the trick. I LOVE conquering rattles.
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I have a constant fog on my windshield, A rattle in the steering wheel area and a middle headrest that's too big. What can I do?
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Just hit a fantastic Minnesota pot hole. Have a slight shimmy now at higher speeds, feels like its from the rear. Don't see any obvious dents in the rim, what else could I have bent back there? I'm wondering if this is psychosomatic and our roads just suck right now or if I really damaged something.
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Having trouble with a shimmy at 65-75mph .....
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. I've been having issues with judder. I first mentioned it to a mechanic late last spring, but they said the rotors and pads were fine, so I let it be, and the judder got gradually worse, until I brought it in again a couple weeks ago and got new front rotors (the rotors were warped at that point, and barely within spec). But as I left the mechanic's, I realized that the judder had not gone away, it had just changed, and become more pronounced. (Yes, I should have gone right back in to the mechanic, but I was peeved that the problem was still there, and sleep deprived from working 3rd shift.)
The judder is most noticeable when I am stopping in town. The car behaves as if I'm stomping on the brake repeatedly; the brakes are grabbing and releasing, grabbing and releasing. Until the past week, this has meant that my head bobs front and back a bit as I stop. In the past week though, it feels like there is a tiny bit of side-to-side movement developing, too. The steering wheel does not shake, and I can't feel anything unusual in the pedal.(Also, if it matters, the tires were rotated about a week before the rotors were replaced.)
What could the issue be here? Should I take it back to the shop and ask them to undo and redo the lug nuts by hand, since I've read that overtightening, or tightening in the wrong order, could be an issue? Should I ask them if they test run-out when they install rotors? Should I go to a different mechanic? The mechanic I went to is a local large operation with a decent reputation, but... I've gotten some conflicting information from them, depending on who I talk to. Also, should the pads have been replaced along with the rotors? They're at around 70%.
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A little back ground... Drove from NM to MN. Truck ran well averaged 13.5 mpg. hand calc'd (only .1 off of trip computer, I found it was typically a rounding difference). Shimmy and vibration from 70 to 80 mph, I am getting wheels rebalanced today. Rear AC blows very cold, front AC needs attention, coldish air blowing.
I have a squeak behind the bash on the passenger side. After about 300 miles of feeling in, under, over etc we couldn't find the squeak. After a bit we turned off the max AC and the squeak went away. Now it is a squeak with road movement but it only does it when the Max AC fan is running. When we got to Minnesota, we lifted the hood and I can move the whole AC unit and recreate the squeak/rattle. Is this movement usual? Would this be the cause of my front AC not blowing cold?
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My '01 Aztek has a very odd shimmy. It only happens when turning right, at highway speeds, and when accelerating. Not when turning left, and not while just 'coasting'. Only when accelerating.
The mechanic replaced a tie rod end, and that seemed to fix things for a few hundred miles. But now it's back and is happening at lower speeds.
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