The engine light came on with only 1700 miles on it. Is there a check list that I can go over to find the problem. I want to check it out myself before I take it to the stealers I mean dealer Or is there a way I can check it on the MFI?
View 3 RepliesDang, my engine light came on at 5K miles and then a few days later it went off. Should I take it to the shop to see what's going on? Is it safe to drive? Even though the light is off now. Looking for a list of items that I can check myself before I bring it in to the shop? It seems to me that something might came loose and it tighten itself due to driving or weather???? Anyway, I like to check it or fix it myself.
View 5 RepliesI have 120K on my 2004 V6 and have been driving with the Exhaust light on steady for about 1000 miles. Tonight after filling up at my usual Chevron with Techron Premium gas station, my engine started stalling and I lurched the 2 miles home. I took off the gas cap to see if reclosing it changed things and it did not. I had the coil pack recall work done 30K miles ago. I'm thinking fuel pump, having it towed to the shop?
View 2 RepliesCould there be something else going on, or should I really expect to have to replace the pads at 19,000 miles??
View 5 RepliesRecently bought an Audi A4 Quattro from a dealer with 112,876 miles on it.. The car runs absolutely beautiful, it up-shifts and downshifts without any noticeable issue, it changes gears without any issue, however... When I am trying to maintain a stable speed of around 35 - 40mph and my engine hangs around 1700RPM it'll bounce up and down slightly..
The revs will hop between 1700RPM up to around 1750RPM and then back down, and then up again.. It's hardly noticeable and the only time it causes any issue/delay is when it hops above 2000RPM and then back down... Is the torque converter the issue or what else could be the cause? Timing belt has been done, spark plugs have been checked, oil has been changed.
I have a 2008 Mazda3. The car has a replaced engine with 24,000 miles on it. The engine was put in before I bought the car.The car and engine run like a top; except at certain RPMs and when in gear. When I have the car in any gear (auto), the engine makes a rougher noise at RPMs 1400-1700. As I apply more gas, the RPMs seem to get stuck at 1700, then it will break through and run smooth 2000+ RPMs. The engine sounds perfect at all RPMs except 1400-1700 when in gear. When I have it in park and rev the engine, the engine sounds perfect at all RPMs.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2008 F150 with a 4.6 litre in it. Last year I dropped a couple of plugs and had a factory new, second generation 4.6 installed. The motor only has about 25,000 on it while the rest of the truck has about 160,000. I was driving back roads in western Mass and went over a small, about four inches deep, pothole. I was driving about 35 miles per hour.
I didn't get any associated master warning lights. The RPM started rolling back from about 1700 to 0, and when they got to 0, the engine shut off. There was no previous sign of a fuel pump going bad, or of a bad fuel filter, which is also less than a year old. The truck has plenty of electrical power and turns over strong but won't start.
I checked the #9 fuse as identified in the manual but couldn't find an actual relay for the fuel pump, so I'm assuming it just has the 20 amp fuse which was good by the way. I'm thinking that the fuel pump would have given a few warning signs, but maybe not.
I did check the emergency fuel shutoff switch to make sure that it had not activated when I hit the pot hole and unless I'm resetting it incorrectly, it doesn't seem to have been set off.
I have a 2009 Santa Fe, v6, and the check engine light and "ESC OFF" lights are on consistently.
I read the check engine light may be the gas cap so I replaced it but the light is still on. Took the car to Advanced Auto Parts and they said it was related to the cruise control.
I also read that the ESC OFF light may be due to alignment issues. I had an alignment done last Saturday but the light is still on. When they checked the check engine light they said it was related to the emissions. This was at a Firestone shop.
Any common cause for these lights to be on at 30,000 miles? I changed the transmission fluid also recently which the manual says to do at 30,000 miles.
My check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
View 30 RepliesI have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
So today during my drive I looked down and noticed my check engine light come on! The car has 7k miles on it!! All I've done to it was the ARK cat back and k and n drop in filter. I'm guessing O2 sensor but it's crazy to think a car with 7k miles had a bad sensor. Noticed the car was running a little rough lately but noting too crazy.
View 14 RepliesSo this morning when I started my car for work, the engine warning light turned on.....Last night it was perfectly fine. What surprised me was the car is only 3500 miles in. Why encountered the engine light issue this early in their ownership of the IS?
View 9 RepliesMy friend has a 2004 Trailblazer with a 4.2. He was driving it a few days ago and the check engine light came on and it would not run pass 15 miles per hour. He turned the truck off and re-started it. The light went off and the problem went away. The scan tool came up with an old code that that throttle body sensor was bad or the throttle body needed cleaned. We cleaned the throttle body and ran it and it ran fine. Now here is the problem. When the heater is on and the truck is at idle, the truck will idle at 2000 rpm, then kick back to normal then kick back to 2000 rpm and then keep repating this issue. If we shut the heat off, the truck idles fine.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 Sonata Diesel version, and I am getting the engine management light on. All the times i have scanned it, it says - Insufficient air flow to EGR Valve. This gets automatically reset in a day. Now the weird thing - This is happening only if I drive in and around Heathrow airport I have done 100s of miles elsewhere and this problem never occurs. But if I just drive 20 miles to Heathrow, my engine management light always comes on which resets in a day.
I am really confused on what is happening here.
I've got a check engine light on but the truck runs fine. I checked the fluid levels everything seemed normal. Any special trick that I could try to reset this check engine light myself? It's got the 4.6 L, Stock no mods, been keeping the regular service intervals at the dealership.
View 8 RepliesWith a 100 k on the odometer, the wife reports that the car started shaking, trans was slipping and check engine light came on after driving about two miles. She drives it at low speed back to the house. Investigation under the hood shows trans fluid in the radiator and coming out of the overflow tank. Engine starts right up and we have not had any other driveline problems since owning the car in 2005.
View 1 RepliesAbout a week ago I got the fuel cap light on a steep hill in San Francisco. Next fill up it looked like the cap might have been a little loose. Can't remember exactly. A few days after the first warning I got a solid check engine light. I have 110K miles. I've had the coil packs replaced twice and the check engine light flashed when that was the culprit.
I've driven the car 4-5 times about 5 miles and the light hasn't gone off on it's own. It is a real hassle to take it to the dealer and I don't have much time. So:
1. Will it clear itself of the issue goes away, or must it be cleared at the dealer?
2. Any other V8 04' had the same issue?
Drove from KC to Wichita (189 miles) on Friday. Drove around in the city (probably less than 22 miles) that evening. Touareg has been in the driveway of my father-in-law's house since. Got in the car this monring (Monday) to go pick up my 2 nieces and the thing was dead. It didn't want to give my key back but I insisted so it did.
I have it on a charger right now and it is drawing 12 AMPS. I just hope the thing starts later today when i have to get back on the road to go back to KC.
Big bummer. Nothing unusual that should have caused the problem, but I do have yet another theory to add to the pile. This theory is a running one from my previous Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd. It developed an electronic eye issue. When parked the eye sensor would malfunction and tell the headlights to come on. So, the battery would drain in my garage overnight. They replaced the sensor and the problem went away (which I thought was strange since the Jeep was off in the garage disabling the sensor from being able to tell the lights to turn on).
When I went out to the Touareg this morning I noticed that the parking lights were on (but very dim). When I switched the light switch to the "O" position they went off.
Do you think there is possibly a light sensor issue here as well? Who frinkin' knows?
Was driving on some segmented highway concrete that send my front end into quite a thrashing. Slowed down quite a bit and it settle down some but nothing like that before. Pain attention to ride but it feels OK, corners, etc. BUT, over the past few weeks, I've noticed that it has become quite sensitive to sharp transitions (BOTS dots a.k.a. line markers, driveways, etc. so I have a suspicion that one or more of the air spring assemblys has possibly failed or a leak.
It's like the equivalent of a worn out strut. The car hold up. Raises and lowers, etc. But I can't push down on the car to test the response of the suspension like a standard strut car. What is the expected life of the air suspension? And cost to replace pair or all four. Not looking forward to the possible expenses.
I own an '02 Passat 1.9 TDI 130, approx 100k on the clock, runs like a dream apart from one thing:
A resonance has appeared at about 1500-2000 rpm. Sounds like a knocking of an airbox or something, had the car on ramps but no luck. not the exhaust or anything obvious like the engine cover.
Happens both when moving and standing still. not too loud but enough to anno. What it could be? worn engine mounts? the lights shake quite a bit a tickover....
In late fall, I got a recall notice from VW for my 04 V6 Touareg and just got around to bringing it in to Leith VW (dealer I purchased from "new" with about 900 miles on it in May 2005 as one of the last '04s on the lot) in Cary today. Since it's at 18,900 miles, I had them do the scheduled 20k service, plus my state inspection was due so added that as well.
They just called to let me know that although they did pass the inspection for me, the car really needs 4 new tires because the tread depth is below marginal. Also, they said that they are not a dealer for that brand of tire so they cannot give me any kind of treadlife warranty prorating on the replacements; if I want to claim it, I need to go find a tire dealer somewhere.
What kind of BS is this? How could a dealer sell a new car with a tire on it that they aren't actually a dealer for? Did somebody pull a fast one on me by swapping out the tires for an old set laying around before I bought it?