Touareg :: Transmission Slow On Upshift And Jerky On Downshift
Nov 30, 2004
Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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So the problem is that I have a jerky downshift 3-2 and 2-1 that can be felt by everyone in the car (car pushes forward on downshift) until the car warms up. When the car is warm I can feel it slightly at times and feel a clunk when shifting down 3-2 and 2-1. On up-shifts at times the shifts are shaky from 1-2 and 2-3. I have brought this forward to my dealership as well as another one. They all performed software updates and reset the adaptive learning. However every time I got my vehicle back after this procedure I found the A/C was on full blast. So the initial drive by the tech after the reset was learning while the A/C was on. Would this be causing the weird shifting I experience while the A/C is off. I seem to notice a better shifting when the A/C is on but this may just be me trying to reason why my transmission is behaving this way. I drove other 2015 Sonata's and they have much better shifting than my car and no hard jerks on downshifts.
Both dealers have felt the downshifts and have come back and simply said "We've done all the updates and reset and learning. This may just be a normal characteristic of the car." I told them that a brand new vehicle in this day and age shouldn't be shifting poorly when compared to an older vehicle with 300,000 km (my old Honda Civic which are prone to transmission failures). They responded casually saying you can go and get a second opinion from another dealership if you like. I am furious with their responses and just left it at that. I need to know how to get this resolved and if this is indeed something I should expect from my Sonata.
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I have a 1998 C class RV that the downshift from overdrive is sloppy and slow when the button is pressed to release the OD or to put it back into overdrive mode. It seems to pause and then kick in or out of OD. Is this a common problem with E4OD transmission? What will fix it, fluid change? Solenoid replacement?
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Six speed GTI Manual for those that dont know its a 2.0 TSI. Fifth gear grinds all day long when i downshift or upshift. They have given me a service car to drive around in, until its fixed. 25k on the OD and a 5 year mechanical warranty, i have 2 years left on the rest. Third gear doesn't go in easily, its like i miss third gear all the damn time, obviously its not right when the rpm's go above 3k.
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My beloved Treg is marooned at the dealer again, having been towed there this morning. Transmission is all over the place...shifts into 5th and stays there, or extremely jerky shifts - especially downshifts. Gear position indicator is highlighted in red and no longer indicates which gear I'm in. Check engine light is on; no message in MFI...
Incidentally, it appears that the dealer and/or VWOA is starting to understand how to treat luxury vehicle buyers. Roadside assistance was very responsive and courteous. Dealer set me up with a rental from Budget...made a point to have me pick something similar to the Treg (not a POS econobox). I'm driving a Ford Exploder...a far cry from the Treg, but at least it's an SUV and has similar seating and hauling capacity.
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Took my car to the dealer for it's 80K service and asked them to check the tranny because it's been slipping (hesitation) during upshift and occasionally banging into gear during downshift. I figured they would suggest the BG tranny fluid flush but got a call from the service advisor saying they found the fluid to smell burnt and it was black. 1999Pazzat V6...
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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My 2004 V8 egg is currently at 111,000 miles and I'm starting to have problems that are really cause for concern. Since the blue book value on the Touareg is worthless and I've got it paid off, I might as well keep it until the wheels fall off of it. Anyhow, on to the problem at hand ...
When driving on the interstate at high speed somewhere around 80 - 90 mph and you push the accelerator to get that extra bit of speed out of the downshift so you can pass or just for the heck of it, the transmission starts clunking, LOUDLY, which of course causes you to let your foot off the gas. The clunking continues for about 5 - 10 seconds until the car has slowed down a bit.
I can still get the car up to speeds of around 110 mph (my wife tried it just about 15 minutes ago on our way back from Florida), but it has to be done gradually as to keep the transmission from downshifting.
Around town the car responds fine. Occasionally it will have a hard shift, but I can't find a reason or pattern to that. Fifth gear also works fine in city traffic, I've used tiptronic to keep it in 5th and I've also watched the main display change from D4 to D5 to D6 and back again without incident.
I'm too afraid to take the car up to 90 and then engage tiptronic and downshift to 5th. This transmission has had its fair share of problems. I'm on my third stepper motor, the forward transmission seal had to be replaced and then later the hydraulic pump had to be replaced. There are no noticeable fluid stains on the belly pans and there are no stains on my garage floor, so I doubt its leaking fluid. Can you even check the transmission fluid level in this thing?
Other than the transmission problem, the Touareg is behaving fairly well. (Knock on wood) It still rides nice and I've learned to put up with the little electrical anomalies that happen like the blue strobe backlight compass (it's just dancing along with the music) and the lights switching ON in full daylight (with the euro switch installed).
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I checked my driver side leather seat (V8) and found that the trim was cracked.
When I slow down my car smoothly when driving, the transmission was not downshifted smoothly after 20K service.
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Why the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
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When I come to traffic and slow down, I have this jerky feeling when I'm coming to a stop. It's not from my brake or transition from gear changing. It's repetition of jerky feeling, not like one jerk from second to first gear.
For example, I'm in my first gear and stopped on the road. If I release the brake pedal and do NOT press gas, my car slowly moves forward with this jerky pulsation. It also makes noise (well.. I can hear it through my exhaust) while it moves. It feels like car is about to move, then stops, then moves, then stops.... I don't really get this when I apply gas.
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I am having an issue with my 1998 5.4l Expedition, e4od. It will not up-shift from 2-3... It feels almost like it's in a 4x4LOW shift schedule.
I've done a lot of research, I was really hoping the fault was inside the valve body and a stuck spring or valve. I went ahead and scanned the computer and I have no codes. The O/D light does not blink. I can toggle it off and on via the button on the end of the shifter.
I watched the gear data correlate with the shifting to eliminate the cable. The reverse lights come on when in reverse, manual 1 works, reverse works, and I can get it to upshift to 2nd with manual two. In {D}, 1st gear runs until the engine is @ apprx 4,000rpm and if i let the throttle go a bit, it'll upshift to 2nd. Speed will keep increasing until the engine is screaming at 5500rpm.
It does not ever neutral out. It just wont upshift..
I pulled the TRS harness off to inspect, and I checked for codes whilst it was unplugged just to be sure I can read TCM codes. The TRS code showed up.
I tested the TPS sensor and it checks out good.
My speedo works fine and as well as my Tach.
The fluid was not low on initial check with the onset of symptoms. So, I went ahead after doing my tests, drained the pan and dropped it. I pulled the accumulator body and as well as the valve body. I could not get the solenoid off today. I will tomorrow and I will ohm it out. I inspected the valve body and accumulator body and to be honest, I do not know what a stuck valve or accumulator looks like or what it would feel like.
The pan magnet had grey material on it. I pressed it between my fingertips and it did not feel like metal. The one third to the right didnt like right at first, but I can feel a little movement when pressing it in. My camera basically washed out, but without disassembling the individual valves, they look intact via the spaces. The last one on the right is stationary..
I cannot tell if these look right (they are unaltered)
The one on the left felt like it was catching when being pressed in
What else could cause no upshift and no codes?
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Daughter bought 05' Santa Fe 4wd 3.5L, from original owner ,car has 47,000 miles on it, was maintained by dealer, and was obvious that car was well taken car of.
So first issue was throttle hesitation, which was mostly corrected by software update.
Now, transmission is acting goofy. If you step on gas heavily, it's as if the front wheels - or tranny -slip, then catch. Almost like a limited slip, then as it up shifts, you get a clunk. If it starts out in 2nd (I dont understand this ) then it's clunking going into 3rd.
If you are gently taking off, tranny acts normal. If you're cruising and punch it, it upshifts well, car goes nice.
Daughter called dealer who said update to throttle programming should have corrected any shift issues
So tech takes it out for ride, is able to get it to act up and states : issue in internal, and we need new tranny. 47,000 miles and need new tranny. Nice
I'm wondering if a fluid change and battery disconnect would work. Seems to me the the tech did a quick and dirty diagnosis.
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About 1500 miles on my GTI and I have been noticing on upshifts, just as I release the clutch, I get a short grunt from the transmission. It's very brief, but consistent in lower gears. it's not terribly loud (may not hear it with the radio on but definitely will with the radio off).
It doesn't seem to impact the drive at all so I'm not stressing about it but I will want it looked at if it poses a risk to the drivetrain... Never had anything like it with my last stick ('02 e46).
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I have a 2000 Passat Wagon with a V6 and automatic.
When in "D", the transmission refuses to upshift sometimes. Moving to the tiptronic gate and manually upshifting works, so I think it's a control issue and not something mechanical with the transmission.
It also downshifts inappropriately on occasion. For example, when lifting off the throttle and coasting down just to lose a little speed, it downshifts and I get engine braking. I'm not looking forward to this in the snow. Once again, I can manually upshift just fine when this happens.
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I drive a 02 Passat GLS 1.8t 5 speed and whenever i down shift to slow down it feels like the clutch will catch and then slip and catch and then slip!?!?! the car will "jerk" really hard when this happens and the front end will drop..
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So my daughter's '04 Jetta SW 2.0 will not upshift and has the engine light on. After having it read by the local shop I have the following codes:
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
So what to do? I read a lot about issues about the alleged poorly designed/manufactured stock "Auto Trans Valve Body" and how that seems to be a culprit of shifting issues above 150K.
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On occasion my 2001 Monte Carlo SS will sometimes upshift all the way to 4th gear when leaving a stop sign. Then it will lug & vibrate obviously from being in high gear at a low speed. I can pull over & shut car off for a minute then start it again & it will shift just fine like normal. Then randomly out of the blue it will do it again without any sort of pattern. I replaced the main computer but that didnt work.
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Late January started having transmission problems. Car would not upshift correctly. Sometimes it would not shift out of 4th unless I used either the paddle or the sport shift. Even when it would up shift to the proper gear the torque converter would not lock/unlock correctly. When at speed and I would lift off throttle trans would not free wheel/coast. It would act like you downshifted to engine brake. Sometimes when doing 60+mph rpm would be about 3000 and would get a 'roaring' noise from trans and would require more peddle than normal to accelerate. It was like the trans had selected two gears and they were fighting each other. Sometimes when this happened would smell acrid clutch burning odor when stopped.
I live near Cape Cod so you have been watching the weather you know we have been getting slammed with snow. Because of the snow I didn't get to the dealer until Feb. Tech took car for test drive with me riding shotgun, luckily transmission did everything listed in first paragraph which made the tech a believer. He did some diagnostics and called Hyundai Tech Service. They requested additional diagnostics which would more time and they wanted car earlier in the week since this was a Friday. The technician did reset the transmission adaptive and returned car to me.
OK now comes much more snow. I put more miles on my snow blower than my car. The adaptive reset made some improvements but proper up shifts were not there but trans growling and odor still there.
Finally got back to dealer today. Additional diagnostics done and the Regional Hyundai rep who was at the dealership agreed to replace transmission under Warranty.
I am original owner. Car is a 2012 2.0 SE with 61600 miles purchased Dec. 2011.
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Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
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