Golf V R32 :: Hard To Downshift Going Into A Turn Or Upshift Coming Out Of Out A Turn
Aug 16, 2015
Why the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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Six speed GTI Manual for those that dont know its a 2.0 TSI. Fifth gear grinds all day long when i downshift or upshift. They have given me a service car to drive around in, until its fixed. 25k on the OD and a 5 year mechanical warranty, i have 2 years left on the rest. Third gear doesn't go in easily, its like i miss third gear all the damn time, obviously its not right when the rpm's go above 3k.
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I have a 2004 f250 5.4l w 4r100 and it seams to loose its gear or down shift only when i take a hard right turn. I took it to a trans shop and it shows no codes and at this point I am very confused...
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This last month I have been noticing that either when I am coming to a stop the transmission down shift hard.... and when moving from a stop it gives two bucks like a standard does when u let the clutch out to fast... so i went into do my oil change and asked them to look at it.... guess what its getting a new tranny..... makes me want to trade it in when i get it fixed....
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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Took my car to the dealer for it's 80K service and asked them to check the tranny because it's been slipping (hesitation) during upshift and occasionally banging into gear during downshift. I figured they would suggest the BG tranny fluid flush but got a call from the service advisor saying they found the fluid to smell burnt and it was black. 1999Pazzat V6...
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I'll be driving along, and when I make a relatively hard right turn, I'll hear a buzzing coming from under the hood from that point until my destination. If the car is stopped (usually about 10-20 mins) I'll start it back up and no buzzing.
I've tried pulling over and stopping/starting the car with no luck. I've shifted gears, including into park and neutral, with no luck. I"ve even tried a hard left turn (no luck)!
The buzz is not terribly loud, but rises and falls perfectly with engine RPMs. At idle it's not noticeable, but increases in pitch with the RPMs. It sounds like the engine sounds on a really cold day before it warms up. If I put it in park I can rev the engine and reproduce the same effect as when driving. It doesn't go away at a certain point i.e. I don't think it's resonance.
This is a 1998 Nissan 200SX with about 90K miles.
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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I have 2010 Sonata with 4 cylinder engine and 50,000 miles. For a while now, my car has a real hard downshift at around 20mph. When i put the car in shiftronics mode and do not downshift manually, at the 20mph hard downshift the car is shifting from 4th to 3rd. A while back i had the TSB for hard downshift and also did a tranny fluid flush. Neither has seemed to solve the problem.
Also, the car has a annoying electrical hum/whine that is coming from the engine bay. When i shift car into neutral the hum/whine goes away. Also sometimes when shifting into lower gears the hum/whine will go away for a short period of time.
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when i am stopped and turn my steering wheel a lot to either left or right, and i accelerate, there is a loud thumping hammering noise coming from the front of the car.
it also happens when i am turned a lot to the left or right, and i reverse. it sounds like a hammer hitting cement. it only happens when i turn almost all the way to the left or right...?
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Just got my 2013 RX 350 CPO and been driving it for 2 weeks without any problem. But today when I was trying to steer my wheel all the way to the left (car was parked) and I heard rubbing noise coming from wheel base. It only happens when making hard left steering not right.
I read online and seems like it's a common problem for wheel bearing for Lexus cars.
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I have a 2013 Avalon hybrid that is almost 1 yr old.
I have recently notice a single "pop" noise that seems to be coming from the rear when I turn right with a sharp turn.
I have looked in the trunk and under the vehicle but I cannot find where it is coming from.
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Every time i make a turn or accelerate decently hard, i hear a pop, which generally sounds like a tree branch snapping...this isn't a quiet noise either, also i can feel it in the steering wheel sometimes as well.
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When I turn hard right & left, near the left wheel well there's a little metallic clicking sound. Either way I still don't what it is. Upon inspection when I removed the wheel the I noticed that the red portion with the large arrow is able to move clockwise and counter clockwise. Just curious as to whether or not this should be capable of happening.
Wheel baring, control arm and bushings have been mentioned from Le Shwab's workers... I dunno though I need Vortex's opinion
When collar 3 is turned all the way down it can't rotate, but I'm almost positive that collar 2 and 3 are suppose to remain in contact with one another to prevent movement of collar 1. Just making sure that my theories are correct.
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I just got a new switch from the dealer, only rear fog control (don't have OEM LED's yet), and I want to turn to the right one position, but the HID's come on, and no city lights. What am I missing?
I have a VCDS... [URL] .....
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I would like to start off by saying I am new to this forum. I bought a 2005 Jetta GLI a couple of months ago and from the first day I noticed that occasionally when I would lock it with the alarm, the right turn signal would stay on. It was not much of a problem as I would just press the lock on the remote again a couple of times to turn it off. Lately it has become more frequent and annoying. I have to wait up to an hour so I can finally turn it off through the remote. I was thinking the relay probably.
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Ive been hearing some noises coming from the right side of the dashboard when I turn the heat on. Then last night, smoke/steam started coming through the vents with a strong odor. Popped the hood and there is some smoke coming from behind the engine as well. Sounds like the heater core but why the smoke from the engine? Temperature gauge reads as normal and I have no lights on the dash.
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so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.
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Took a little trip today in our 01 v10 2wd. Spent about 45 minutes on the interstate. At 1 point I had kicked it down out of od to get out around a slow semi. The trans seamed to upshift real hard. I thought it was odd but didnt give it much more thought. After getting off the interstate we traveled on divided 4 lane highway. Every time we pulled off from a stop the trans would upshift hard from 1-2 and 2-3, rest of the shifts felt fine. We stopped (shut off and went inside) to pick up lunch and the hard shift was really worrying me.
After our stop we continued on with the trip. The trans shifted flawlessly the rest of the day. OD light didn't flash and MIL did not come on. Bought in February with 168k, now has 169k. Did all services including trans flush with Merc 5 fluid when I got it. I know you cant fix what isn't broke but if I can do some thing now before it poops out all together I want to try. Not towing, just passengers...
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Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
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