Town Car :: When AC Is On It Will Hold OK For A Few Seconds And Then It Disengages
Mar 5, 2012
The AC clutch on my 2000 Town Car has an intermittent engagement, when the AC is on you can see it clicking into position where it will hold ok for a few seconds, and then it disengages, and so on and so on. The AC puts out cool air and I checked the pressure connecting up to the low side port with a gauge yesterday. Plenty of Freon in the system. Right now I am operating on "vent" to keep the car inside cool.
The sales man who sold me the Lincoln thought it was low on refrigeration, but I thought it was the clutch. Could it be a wiring issue, or a faulty switch? Ironically the small Ford wagon with a 4 cylinder engine I almost bought the previous day had the exact same problem, and both of them had around 102,000 miles. So it is something that all Ford products can have.
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I've got a problem with my AC Compressor, with the AC on the compressor engages then disengages about every 5 seconds. Now I looked into it and some people said you can remove a washer to remove a gap. Do you think I should change the whole unit? Looked online and I can get one for $100. If I do work on the AC compressor to try and fix it or remove the whole unit do I need to drain any refrigerant etc etc. I have a hayness repair booklet and they said that to remove the ac compressor you need to get it drained by professionals. Although on the compressor I only see a electrical plug and no hoses.
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Went to start this 5.0 TC after it sat idle for a week, and it died within 3-4 seconds. Further attempts resulted in similar response. After some initial checks, I was able to keep the engine running by manually depressing the IAC plunger into the barrel. The engine ran fine as long as I could hold that, but stall immediately after release. Codes: TPS out of range; HEGO HO2S sensor out of range-always lean. Bought a new TPS no change.
Today: With the key "on" and engine off, the fuel pressure is a steady 38psi. There is an air release button on the fuel gauge line and when I pushed that, the gauge pressure dropped to zero and does not come back (until you key off and on again). I removed the IAC from its mount and with the key on--I observed the plunger move inside its body--guessing maybe 1/4 inch. I casually checked all the engine management items I see in books and looked at vacuum hoses and couldn't see anything amiss (also climbed on top of this engine and checked the rear--PCV lines etc.). I removed the fuel regulator vac line and observed no fuel leakage there.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
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My 1997 Town Car has had the sound from the dash related to the blend door actuator in other posts. Noise would last for 5 - 10 minutes and go away. Today I noticed when driving I was getting a wild fluctuation in heat when set to automatic on the climate control so I decided to run the diagnostic to verify the blend door problem. I got code 024 so I know it is the actuator. My problem since I ran the diagnostic(exited by pushing defrost) the actuator noise is now constant and I have no heat, only cool air is blowing. Is there a reset I can do for the actuator? It's as if it is stuck in test mode.
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I'm driving home doing about 40 mph when I get an "error message" on the instrument cluster. It said something like "Fault something something". I wish I took a picture of it since my old age is now preventing me from remembering what it said. Anyway, the DSG "disengaged". I could rev the engine, but the car isn't moving and I'm eventually slowing down. It's as if someone put the car into neutral. I noticed that the ESC and the "DSG hot" light went on. There may have been other lights as well. I tried turning the ASR on/off and it didn't work.
I tried to put the DSG into manual mode so that I can shift manually and it didn't do anything. I put it into Sport mode and it still didn't do anything. All the time, the engine is running and will rev when I step on the gas. I finally put my hazards on and pulled over. I restart the car and all's well and I was able to drive off and get home without further incident. The temp outside was 10F just for a data point.
Looked in the manual hoping that there would be a list of error messages to jog my memory, but nothing there.
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It only happens after being at sustained highway speeds for 45+ minutes. When exiting the highway, the transmission torque converter lock disengages with a jolt, usually around 30 MPH. Has happened every time I've done extended highway travel since the car hit 1000 miles. And more importantly, is there a dealer fix?
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I read about Prius will not spin its wheels? if it loses traction, it somehow disengages the drive or otherwise does not power the wheels until they stop. Once they stop, the wheels can receive power again.
That's sure going to make it hard to do burnouts in the grocery store parking lot.
More importantly, it could make it hard to impossible to get unstuck on sand, gravel, mud or snow. It could also be hard to take off on a slippery incline.
Sure, this isn't an off road vehicle, but off the road ain't far from on the road and road conditions can get pretty rough.
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Turning on headlights cuts engine. Sometimes won't start at all even with lights off. All dash lights go out as well. I.e. when auxiliary is on only radio works, turning on headlights shuts off radio. Recently got a used alternator. Could not find any issues pertaining to the alternator. New battery as well.
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My new-to-me '07 Elantra has 109k on it & I'm not sure if the clutch is orig or 2nd. It doesn't slip in any gear, but the actual active section of pedal is really only the bottom 3". If the pedal is not on the floor board It isn't fully disengaged. When letting out the clutch it is effectively fully out after only 2-3" off the floor. With that said the 'free play' is only the very top 1/4-1/2" as it should be.
I've never had a clutch that felt as this one does, & I have 15yrs history driving manuals.
My first thoughts are:
1. clutch disc is almost gone & getting ready to start slipping
2. restrictor valve is clogged
3. slave cylinder is weak & not throwing full range anymore
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I love my 2003 Honda CR-V and it works perfectly except for the cruise control. It may work for 5 miles or 200 miles, but at some point while riding along just fine the car bucks, decreases and then increases speed, and then the cruise disengages. Once this happens, it takes a long time for the cruise control to take hold again. This is an intermittent problem and almost impossible for a mechanic to figure out. I'd love to solve this mystery as I plan to keep this car for at least 300,000 miles! I'm only up to 179,000.
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Cruise control engages normally, holds the set speed, but after a few minutes it disengages. It feels that same as when you lightly tap the brake pedal to disconnect the cruise. Bad brake switch or something else?
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My 2004 Camy XLE 4 cyl has developed an intermittent problem. So far this has only happened after the car has sat in the sun at my office for the day and the temp is around 90. When I begin to take off the transmission disengages intermittently and the engine light comes on. After a couple of miles the problem stops, but the engine light stays on. Usually the light goes off the next day.
I have had the car to dealer. First time reset code P0500 and problem returned. Second time, dealer found update for engine control module. "performed to reflash ECM per TSB 0072-04.
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Whenever I open the door to get out of the car after it locks itself the lock rapidly engages and disengages until I push lock or unlock on the key fob. I hope the actuator isn't going bad. And wanted to see if there was something I could do to fix it before replacing the whole thing.
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My cruise control disengages with a significant bump.
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Twice now this has happened to me and I'm concerned it will become worse if I don't fix it. Driving down the road my engine has disengaged. By this I mean the vehicle both times has been at 55 MPH, my foot on the throttle rpms riding around 1300 revolutions, and the engine disengages rpms drop below idle and my "wait to start" light comes on. This both times lasts approximately 2 seconds and throttle reengages while still traveling 55 MPH, "wait to start" light goes off and its like it never happened. What's going on with my truck? Ford diesel 97 250 7.3 ...
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So I just bought a 2000 MK4 Jetta for a $1000, its been ok, replaced the breaks, rear calipers, swapped in new headlight socket, swapped in amber tails, new plug wires, new drive belt, water pump/ timing belt all new.
Car has 173,xxx and i drive in pretty bad traffic daily, there are times when i am going to accelerate and between 2-3k RPM it feels like the clutch disengages then re-engages for a split second. then continues to drive normal, happens 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Is this the clutch slipping? will it be fixed if i were to order a new clutch kit? I am on a budget and do all my own work, so i can't afford to buy a new clutch kit and have this not fix the problem.
Also, the car gets a little wiley on the free way, feels like its the struts, but the steering wheel vibrates a bit, i just found out the PO had different rims on the car before. So the tires might need to be balanced. I JUST Ordered new Racelands hopefully to stop the creaking/bounciness of the suspension. How to get this steering in check.
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My 2006 Prius (156K miles) has recently started bucking and jerking when the ICE engages or disengages. The worst is if the car is stopped (brakes or in park) and the ICE kicks in (for instance if the A/C is running) - it will make the entire car jump. But it also happens in the normal course of driving, most often when the car is coasting for awhile and then I accelerate out of the coast - there is a noticeable jump as the ICE engages.
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I have about 80K miles on my 2002 F-250 P/S. My AC will cool big time when I first turn it on. But, after I have been on the road for a while (20-50 miles), the AC turns hot. I noticed that the compressor clutch disengages when the engine goes over 1500-1600 RPM and when the engine slows back down, the clutch re-engages. I have had:
1. Bugs cleaned from the front.
2. Evacuated and recharged (3 times).
3. Cycling switch replaced.
All these were done by an authorized Ford dealer. But the system still gets cantankerous at cruising speed (1900-2000 RPM).
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1999 f250 super duty crew cab 7.3 psd : Why my 4wd is engaging and disengaging by itself? I recently had a vac leak which caused the HVAC controls to stop working and the ESOF stopped working also. I found a creak in the PVH solenoid and replaced it. I also replaced the 2 vac lines going from the hard line down to the hub. The HVAC controls work fine but now the 4wd is turning on and off when ever it feels like it. I have removed the selector button in the cab, disconnected the plug from the PVH solenoid, and even disconnected the vac lines from the hub. The problem still persists.
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2002 Honda Civic LX
Around 1 or 2 years ago, cruise control has started acting strangely. If weather or the engine are cold, and the road is smooth, then it works fine. However, in hot weather, or if the engine is hot, cruise control disengages and the car just slows down as if someone turned CC off. Sometimes this happens randomly, other times by a nudge from a bump in the road.
If I try to re-engage CC, it doesn't work. I have to reach to the CC master switch, turn that off, then back on, and then CC starts working again for a while - until I hit the next bump or something.
The problem seems to be getting slowly worse as time goes by. At first I had this problem in the middle of summer. Now CC is affected even in winter (or what passes for winter in California).
What could possibly cause this? If it's something that could be fixed by just replacing some component, I'd rather do it myself. But I don't know what part might be the culprit.
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