Toyota - Camry :: 2001 - Rear Oxygen Sensors Keeps Failing
Aug 5, 2011
I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry with about 110,000 miles. About a year ago the check engine light came on and indicated a problem with the rear O2 sensor (the exact OBD code escapes me right now). Had the sensor replaced and a month later the same one failed. Replaced it again and 2 weeks later it failed again. I am now on the fourth rear O2 sensor and the check engine light is on again with the same code. So, clearly the problem isn't the actual sensor. I have heard it might be the ECU, but what else could be causing this type of problem?
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I own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
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This car was bought new 2008. All is well w/ everything. It's a joy to drive. However, we were told last week, that since the car is 8 years old (or soon to be), we should worry about the hybrid battery failing and should consider a new car. So, that's the question. Repair or replace?
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Looking for a diagram of the locations of the oxygen sensors on this vehicle, I am getting miss information from all around saying it has anywhere from 2-4 oxygen sensors and i think it has 3 am i right? two in the front behind the radiator on the exhaust manifold, and 1 somewhere by the catyaltic converter. There isn't a whole lot of manuals out there for these cars.4.0 ltr engine...
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My son-in-law has a 2006 Honda Accord with over 160,000 miles on it. About 8 months ago, the check engine light came on. The code said the down stream oxygen sensor was bad. He took it to a Honda dealer and they replaced the sensor and now the check engine light is back on with the same code. Can the catalytic converter have gone bad and can it have made the oxygen sensor go bad too?
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I've been looking online to see how often you need to replace the oxygen sensor for the 3rd gen Prius. I can't find anything online. How often you replace these? Would it be around 100,000 miles or more because it's a hybrid? Also how many are there? I've heard there is 2 and some say there's 4.
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I changed both oxygen sensors yesterday on my 1997 Accord.
Check Engine Light was on and I was getting codes:
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
Also, after clearing the codes, if I started the vehicle the codes would come on instantly. So it wasn't some kind of flaky electrical issue, it was consistent.
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I just had an OBD code pulled on my 2010 Camry and it turns out that my Heated O2 sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 2 is failing. I'd rather do this myself if I can but I can't figure out where this thing is. Is this something I can access myself and swap out? Or does this need to be fixed by a mechanic?
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I have a 2000 motorhome on a f450 chasis. It has a V-10 with only two oxygen sensors up-stream from the catalytic converter. The monitors for the oxygen and oxygen heater sensors will not show "ready". I replaced both sensors and have driven it over 200 miles. They still show "not ready".
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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I have a 2004 Corolla with a Check Engine light on. The Toyota dealer diagnosed this as: "Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 - slow to respond".
The diagnostic code is PO133. Elsewhere, I find that this code indicates:
The oxygen sensor is faulty.
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed.
There is an exhaust leak
Haven't noticed exhaust leakage, and I doubt the wiring is faulty.
1) Where is sensor 1?
2) Do I really need a new sensor, or can I clean the old one?
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I have a 220k 1994 Corolla with I have come across a couple problems recently. It all started about a week ago when I decided to change my rear brake shoes. The old ones turned out to be all cracked and everything but were generally in pretty good shape in terms of wear. Anyways I put the new shoes in (my first brake job) and tightened up the e brake cable and went for a test drive. I walked away extremely satisfied, the e brake worked perfect which was my main reason for changing the shoes in the first place.
Basically the whole thing worked perfectly until 2 days later. I was driving for about 8 miles when my brake pedal suddenly fell through to the floor (or pretty close) at first I even thought I hit the clutch pedal! anyways after pumping the pedal a few times my pedal feel returned about 70% and after another maybe 10 seconds braking power was lost again until I pumped the pedal. So lucky for me my destination was a 1/4 mile away so I parked and checked the fluid level; it was at the max mark, then I check the wheels/drums and they were REALLY hot.
Also the driver's side drum had a faint smell of brake fluid. Anyways about an hour later I went for a short drive and the brakes worked fine so an hour after that I drove the 8 miles home and about 1/8 of a mile from home same thing happened; brake pedal basically goes almost down to the floor until pumped. My thoughts were that the new shoes were constantly rubbing and the old fluid overheated and caused failure so I flushed the system and put new fluid in and adjusted the shoes "in" with the click adjuster bolt. I had a really hard time getting the drums of to begin with. That and I loosened the e brake cable just in case.
So the next morning I drive about 5 miles without using the brakes pulled over to check that the drums were not heating up anymore (they weren't) so I thought I had fixed it. Well 3 days later (last night) I was experiencing the rear brake stickiness again. Basically when I was just moving from a stop where I had used the e brake to secure the car, I could literally feel that the rear brakes were stopping the car pretty aggressively and sure enough after a few more miles my brake pedal fell through so I poured water on the drums and they started to let off lots of steam, even after like 10 bottles!
So I limped to my friends house at 12:00 AM and jacked my car for a look. Again the drums really didn't want to come off and once we did get them off my friends dad inspected them and could find anything wrong with my installation. The conclusion that we came to was that the auto adjustor for the shoes makes the shoes too tight and they rub. So I am thinking maybe this is cause for the fluid to overheat and boil, causing the pedal to fall through. The pedal fell has gotten much worse since I bled the system 3 days ago so that may be an indicator. Did a test this morning for 5 miles and the drums were just below lukewarm.
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2005 Scion xA 127,000 miles
Problem started with speedometer not working occasionally. Now it works about 75% of the time. Often if I park for several minutes and restart the car the speedometer will work again. Sometimes after I start the car at first it won't work. Then I hear a click and a whir and it works.
Recently the gas gauge has been failing occasionally. I start the car and the needle doesn't move. I restart the car immediately and it works.
Only once the tachometer didn't work at first. Then the needle jumped up suddenly. I found at least 14 possible causes online:
1. Relay
2. ECU
3. Loose wire or connector in cluster
4. Speed sensor
5. Fuse
6. Gauge
7. Electrical short––recalibrate speedometer
8. Faulty speedometer head
9. Bad transducer
10. Dirty connection
11. Body control module (BCM) hung up
12. Bad ground
13. Bad stepper motor
14. Bad alternator diodes
QUESTION 1: Given that the problem has gotten worse over time, it's intermittent, and now two gauges are involved, what's the most likely cause?
QUESTION 2: A garage told me it's illegal to buy a used instrument panel and have the odometer reset. Is that true?
QUESTION 3: If not illegal, what's the cheapest way to get a reliable IP and get it reset? I can't afford a new cluster at a dealer.
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I thought this strange occurrence I am about to describe was maybe happening because of a faulty air-fuel oxygen sensor, that I knew was bad do to a code test that was done, when my check engine light came on. However, after changing the air-fuel oxygen sensor, doing a reset on my check engine light over the weekend, this same occurrence is happening, to spite the check engine light remaining off. Here is what is happening.
When I start and drive it to normal driving temperature then put the car in "Park" with nothing turned on, the car will shake the idle speed will move up and down until it will eventually kill.
Special Note: It does not always have a idle drop and kill the engine every time. If I turn the A/C on in "Park" it idles up higher and does not ever kill. Could it be a bad Idle Air Control Motor?
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My engine light just went on and the fault codes are:
P0138 -PowerTrain (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0607 - PowerTrain Control Module Performance
I have just bought Denso 234-4305 Rear Sensor but I was wondering if there are any guides to show where it's located?
The only guides I found is for the 9th Gen Corolla.
The Car has 88k miles on it so I guess it's outside the emissions warranty. Thus what is the price of a new ECU just in case that's the problem?
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I have a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 with 121,000 miles. I removed the front oxygen sensor today to replace an exhaust pipe, and I noticed that the tip has a red/pinkish color on one side only. What this would indicate?
The only thing I could find online is that a pink tip indicates lead in the fuel. This is impossible, since the only gas station I frequent is a Conoco which is always very busy. Plus, I haven't noticed any performance issues from bad gas, and not to mention the fact that leaded fuel has been completely phased out for 15 years. What's weirder is that the sensor tip is only pink on one side - I'm guessing it's the side that's facing the exhaust manifold.
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I have a 2001 ford explorer sport and realized that the oxygen sensor on the passenger side behind the cat was unplugged from the harness.
I am unable to find the harness and dont know where its supposed to go.
I would like to get this fixed right away but can not find a diagram anywhere, or a manual...
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My wife drives a 2005 Solara 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE. Over the past few years, it has been going through batteries about every year and a half. The batteries have all failed on the load test.
So far, I've removed the alternator and taken it in to get it bench tested, tested fine. I had the full charging system check with the machine, starter tested fine, alternator volts were fine, only problem was the CCA load test (for which the battery was replaced under warranty). I tested for parasitic battery drain several times, got some drain for awhile after car is powered off, but it eventually falls to zero. I checked for voltage drop across the wiring, visually inspected the wiring to the starter, alternator, etc. and made sure the ground connections were tight from the battery to the frame and engine. Everything looked good.
The only thing I can come up with is that the most recent battery boiled over a bit at one point in time because there was evidence of acid spillage. Also, once (and only once), my wife noticed her lights flickering while her car was idling for awhile during a cold morning. These two things lead me to think it must be the alternator (voltage regulator), but neither the bench test nor anytime I test it at home reveals any issue.
Maybe it's an intermittent problem from vibration, etc. I just hate to plunk down the cash for a new alternator if that isn't the issue.
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I have a 2006 2.4l Santa Fe, has been diagnosed with failing ac compressor. Quoted exorbitant amount of money to replace. As far as I know, this vehicle was available without the ac option, and at this point I don't car if I have it or not, looking for the cheapest fix. Can I bypass with a shorter belt? Does it need to be removed completely, and if so, can it be done without affecting anything else?
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I just posted last week that my check engine light was on and the dealer wanted to replace fuel injectors. But after the fuel throttle was cleaned and oxygen sensor was replaced the check engine light went off. However, yesterday the check engine light came back on. I am talking it back to the dealer, in a couple of days. Where can I go to get to get the error codes read so I have them before I go back to the dealer? Around 128,000 runs fine, around 40 miles per gallon. Last time I had the oil change dealer nothing came up on the 30 point inspection.
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I have a Gen 6 2007 Camry SE V6 that I bought new in 10/2006.
Over the last few months, I've had an intermittent loss of coolant as evidenced by sometimes finding a small puddle of coolant on the floor in the garage.
I also often hear a noise under the hood for a few minutes upon first starting the engine cold. I've been just adding a little Official Toyota Coolant to the coolant reservoir.
I'm unable to see where the coolant is leaking from, but with the water pump problems others are having with this engine, and the noise I sometimes hear when starting the engine cold, I suspect it's the water pump.
I have 70,000+ miles on the car with the extended warranty which runs out in mid 10/2013. These symptoms led to a water pump failure?
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