Toyota - Corolla :: Battery Dies If Car Is Not Driven In Past 10 Hours
Nov 2, 2011
Last February I got my car battery replaced. It was less than 2 years old and went dead if I didn't drive my car in at least the past day. I brought it to Sears and they replaced the battery and gave me a discount for the short life of the previous battery.
About 4 months later, it started happening again. Now it's down to only about 6 hours of non-driving. I had the battery tested at Sears, another garage where I was getting other work, and by my father, who has all the meters and is a former machinist.
Everyone says the battery is in good shape, the cables are secure, and the battery is taking a charge. It's a 2002 Toyota Corolla ....
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I have a 1994 Toyota truck that overheats and dies after 2-3 hours of driving. Once it cools, it starts back up until it gets hot again. It has been taken to many different professionals and no one can find anything wrong with this truck. One shop changed the fuel filter and checked the catalytic converter. Another checked the radiator. One said it could be the fuel pump, but found nothing wrong. The problem still exists! The truck is used for work (delivering mail in rural areas) so there is a lot of stop and go.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with 160,000 miles on the odometer. While driving at highway speeds (50+ mph), if I let off the gas ever-so-slightly, an audible ticking (like the sound of a sewing machine) begins. It immediately goes away as soon as the motor begins to decelerate or accelerate again. It ticks the loudest while the motor is directly in between accelerating and decelerating, while I am trying to maintain the speed I am traveling at. The sound started 6 months ago and was almost unnoticeable, but has gotten steadily louder the more I drive it. From what I have already researched, I believe it might the valve lifters needing to be changed, but wanted to get a second opinion.
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I own a 2008 Bullitt Mustang. The past six months I have noticed a backfire. It only happens after the car has been driven and cools down for a few hours. It doesn't happen after sitting all night. The car is under warranty and my dealer says it is normal. The car also runs better when it is cold.
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I have a 2003 Super Duty 6.0. The trouble started almost all at once. It started fine, then I drove it for a while and on hot start, it cranked for a long time before starting. This went on for a few days, then today it wouldn't restart even when cool after not being driven for hours. I have a code P2285 and code P2285 P that has been on for a month or so. I know that the P2285 is the ICP. I don't know and can't find out what the "P" is at the end of the code. Anyways, I want to repair it myself. I have experience doing pretty major repairs, so it doesn't scare me. The problem is I am new to the diesel world. So come one and come all with possible scenarios and I will Go right down the list.
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My 1997 Toyota Corolla has recently began hesitating when starting. When I turn the ignition, her idle seems normal, but then goes 'down' and it feels like she's going to die. But then the idle/revs go back up and she's fine. However within the past week, she dies when starting (usually the first start or two of the day). She turns over, but then 'fizzles out' and dies. However when she does this, a small tap on the gas pedal revs her up.
This does not occur every time I start her. In fact the more I use her throughout the day, it seems she starts normal. There are no issues with RPMs/Idling when driving.
I've taken her to two mechanics and they could find nothing. Fuel pump, fuel line, throttle body, etc. All fine. When hooked up on the computer the only thing that showed a slight reading is the idle air control valve. But they can't be sure that's the problem.
Of course she hasn't died for the mechanics, just me as it's sporadic.
When I turned her on today she didn't die in the morning like she has all week, however the idle was so low that we were waiting for her to die. Slowly the revs picked up and she was fine!
I put fuel injector cleaner in a few days ago and got an oil change yesterday. That's it.
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I've had this issue for a while now but is seems to be getting worse the older the truck gets. I've had the battery, and alternator tested multiple times and they always receive passing grades. If the truck sits for a period of several days or more without being started, the battery is sometimes dead when I go to start it up and go somewhere. It is really frustrating because it seems to happen and very random times, when I least expect it.
Sometimes I can go start my truck without any problems at all after a week or so. Sometimes it won't start if I leave it alone for only a day or two. Usually after I jump start the truck it will run fine and start for the next several weeks. Is it possible that there is a short somewhere causing the battery to drain sometimes? Also, there is sometimes a buzzing sound that comes from under the hood when it is warm outside with the engine off and the truck at rest... could they be related?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla CE manual transmission with 431,000 (not a typo) miles on it. About 7 weeks ago I noticed that when I turn on my high-beams after driving for awhile, the car dies for a few seconds. All lights go out, radio stops, engine stops and then it starts up again as if nothing happened. It will just do it once in about a half-hour time frame. I can switch the high-beams on and off repeatedly afterwards and it doesn't do it again. I have to drive for about a half-hour before it will do it again. I usually hear a slight pop sound when it does it.
A month later I noticed that if I parked it after driving for awhile, like at a gas pump, and get back in it, it acts as if the battery is dead for a few seconds. If I step on the clutch or open and close the driver door, the car comes back on. It appears that the battery was disconnected. The CD pops out of the player and all the radio station settings are gone. One morning last week I got in, and it had happened during the night. The CD was out, station settings gone, and the clock was 6.5 hours off.
I have had the car to a Toyota repair center 3 times. They have checked fuses, battery, battery cables, grounds, alternator, tensioner, looked for rodent nests, squirrels and I don't know what-all, etc. They can't find what is wrong. I am scared to drive it, but I depend on it. I commute 200 miles/day. I won't leave anything important in the car because I am afraid it will catch fire. I am scared I am going to have a wreck, too, with no lights and no power steering suddenly.
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So here's whats going on now. My girlfriend has had her car for about 10 months now, and besides the last 3 weeks it has been a perfect car. In these last 3 weeks though her car has been a real pain.
Her car randomly dies while its being driven/at a stop. It doesn't matter how fast she is going or how long she has been at a stop.
It first started 3 weeks ago when i was driving it to the mall with her and the car started to slow down on the freeway, going about 65. I pushed on the accelerator and got no response. After about 5 seconds all power came back and we were off. At no point in time did the power inside or the headlights dim/turn off.
Next time it died it wouldn't get going again. Battery was fine. My first assumption was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine.
A couple days later the car did the exact same thing, except this time the battery was completely shot. Took a look at it and it was almost 8 years old. Went and replaced it.
The following day it died again, this time it was the battery again but since it was a brand new battery we knew it couldn't be the issue. So i went ahead and replaced the alternator. Turned on the car and it ran perfect. While it was running i even disconnected the battery just to make sure the alternator could still power the car, no issues.
A few days went by with everything working perfectly fine, not a single issue that is, until tonight. As my girlfriend was coming to pick me up her car died. She was coming up to a stop light and starting to slow down when her car lost power again. All the lights and radio stayed on but the car died. Battery light came on as well. I walked to her car and told her to try to start it. Fired up right away and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Drove it to my house without another issue.
At this point i'm stumped. The CEL is not coming on, which is a bummer because that would make this much easier. I cleaned off the terminals for the battery and the connecting wires (which weren't dirt or corroded).
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I have an automatic '95 Toyota Corolla wagon that over the past year has had intermittent problems dying after turning on the ignition. It happens mostly when starting for the first time in the morning in our carport (which is generally flat) [are there enough red herrings yet?]. However, we can go for weeks without problems. Our battery is relatively new (1yr) and the car starts-- however, sometimes the car dies unless the gas pedal is depressed for long periods of time in neutral or park. If I can pull out of the carport without having the car die, we've never had any problems on the road.
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I have a beautiful 1987 560SL. My husband and I bought it about 17 years ago and lovingly refer to her as our mid-life crisis car. Truth be told, we're a bit past "mid" life now and have decided to sell it and let someone else enjoy her. Last summer she started to have an annoying issue and we "thought" it was fixed, but right after I started advertising, she started acting up again.The engine simply dies while driving. It always seems to happen when I've only driven about 5 miles and going rather slow - 20 to 30 mph. She'll start back up after a try or 2 and be fine. We took her to a local shop and the mechanic said one fuel pump was shot and the other was not working properly so we replaced both and all seemed fine the rest of the summer. We garage her for the winter as we live in the Rockies and she's not the most practical car to be driving in the snow and ice. This summer she started right up and was doing well until a few weeks ago - same problem.
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Question: Have 2014 Toyota Corolla LE that was manufactured March 2014 and has the original size 35 battery. I live in cold climate where it is anywhere from 10 below to 25 above in winter.
I had the battery checked (temp was 55 outside when checked) and they said it was 356 I assume CCA's and that was okay. Does that mean the battery should get through the winter? When should a person replace battery if they don't want to wait for it to fail?
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Toyota Corolla 2000. 77k miles
About a little under a month ago, when my dad tried starting the car, it would start up, make a weird rattling sound like "kakakaka" and then when you press the gas pedal, the car will shut down.
When we do get the car to work, and it starts riding for around 30 miles, the car seems to struggle to maintain speed and get faster even when the pedal is pressed further.
An engine light was shown for either P170, P171 or P0171 (reading off a paper and cant tell what the number is.) We took it to two technicians and neither could find what the problem is.
The light will occasionally turn off and when if you drive for like 20 miles itll come back on.
The first mechanic we took it to they removed and replaced the air/fuel ratio sensor. As well as put in a "Bosch Oxygen Sensor". Got charged 300 for this, and the lights still came on, problems were still there.
Went to another mechanic and he straight up couldnt find anything wrong so he didnt try replacing anything.
A family friend recommended a new battery, so we purchased a new one and put it in, but problems were still there.
Now today, after the car being inactive for around 10 hours, it completely failed to start. When you put the key in, it doesnt even make the usual sounds. We tried jump starting it with cables which did work, but then when we got home, turned off the car, it wouldnt turn back on. The doors wont lock (if that matters), the little light inside the car still shines though (if that matters)
Is this something I can solve, or should I take to another mechanic? If so, is it possible to bring it directly to a Toyota dealership or something? Because for the second mechanic he said he couldnt find anything because the parts were so old..
Today I took out the battery and cleaned off all the corrosion on it and put the battery back in. I tried to start up the car and it did work! I then turned the car off, and then put all the tools back inside, and when I went back out to try it again, it does not start up. However, when I put the key in, it made the usual (ding ding ding) noise, and it showed the seatbelt light. when I tried to start the car, it showed the Check Engine light, Low engine oil pressure light, as well as Charging system warning light.
I try a few more times, and after around 3 times, when I put the key in, it no long made a sound, and when I tried to start it, the lights were very very dim.
I tried my last time when it caused a spark on the positive connector.
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Car was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
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330,000 km on car. I drove 45 minutes when battery light came on on and car engine stalled when making a left turn (fuel light had just come on too but not empty) and restarted on own, drove 10 minutes and it stalled again, so I pulled over and restarted. Drove 45 minutes home. No issues since. Shop says 10 year old battery and alternator are testing fine, though they suggest replacing alternator as it may be going. Could there be other electrical issue since the issue is more intermittent? Car would not stall immediately if alternator failing I would think - should run on battery for a bit and not restart. Drive maybe 400km per month and it sits for 10 days at a time.
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My uncle has a 1997 Corolla that has been sitting on his garage for about 2 years. We jump started the car and after a while recharging the battery, we saw fumes coming out from the engine. I then noticed that there was oil all over the front of the engine.. From what I have found in google it seems that this is a valve cover leak. How serious can these be? Are they easy to fix? because my uncle is thinking on calling the junkyard.
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I purchased a new 350ES in October 2013. A few months later when I went to start the car after having it sit in garage a day or two, it would not start. Called Lexis Roadside. They jumped it and all is well. I thought perhaps I had left the trunk or a door ajar. There was no evidence I had done so. The dealer gave a multitude of reasons this could have happened. I considered it a fluke and moved on.
Approximately a yr later, same thing. Dealer replaced battery and indicated they don't know why it failed again. About nine mos. later, August 2015, same thing! They again replaced battery but were admittedly very unsure the problem was solved.
Car performed fine since then but it was driven every day. Last week, it sat in my garage exactly 36 hrs. Would not start. Lexus Roadside guy said it has a bad cell. Keep in mind this battery is now about 10 months old!
It is at the Lexus dealer now. First (believe it or not) the service guy told me this is normal and I should get a trickler (sp?) and plug it in at night. What??? When I argued with him, he back pedaled and agreed to allow it to sit on their lot for a few days and see what happens when they try to start it.
The alarming thing is that they seem stymied as to what is causing this electrical failure or how to fix it.
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I have been experiencing this problem for sometime now. I notice it especially when the battery shows low and after stopping at a Stop sign. Also when I go uphill.
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Wierd thing happened this morning to my 2013 Corolla. Put key into ignition switch and put it to "ACC" but wasn't paying attention and went just past the detent. So then a sound like the radiator fan under hood started. Turned it to "IGN" and it went away.
I can recreate this. If you go to "ACC" and slowly keep turning eventually a relay kicks and the fan (not AC, but a loud noise like radiator fan) comes on. Going to either "ACC" or "IGN" will stop it? This normal?
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica that won't seem to start after I've driven it awhile. After sitting, it takes around 4 or 5 hours for it to start again (although this is highly variable). The first start of the day is always normal. Recently it will stall at idle, then have trouble starting up. The engine seems to "try harder" to start if I press the gas.
The weird thing is that I was able to start it up easily today by popping the clutch. This has been a problem I've been struggling with for a few months, and over that time I have replaced the starter, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, and EFI/Main Engine relays. It always cranks, just no start.
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For the 3rd time this winter I have been unable to start my SUBARU IMPREZA because of Dead battery. Usually it is after I have not driven for 3 - 5 days. Each time it is jump started (AAA) and I have driven it to the local Subaru Service Center. They have tested and analyzed battery and charging system and find nothing wrong!!! (Battery was replaced last March). They say drain measured very low (3mA?).
One ?clue: when jumper cables are hooked and powered up to start car, you can hear the CD changer trying to find a CD or something. But there are no CDs and we never leave it on. I mention this to the Service manager and he says that the measured battery drain is too low for that to be the problem.
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