Toyota Corolla :: 2003 - No Crank No Start / Battery And Starter Both Test Ok
Apr 16, 2016
Car was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
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Any explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
I had this problem when I installed a rebuilt starter motor in an early 1990's Toyota Corolla recently. It was one of those offshore rebuild starter motors. When I installed it, and turned the key to start, nothing. ARRG .. I have to take it back, and it takes me about 2 hours to install it, and another 1 hour to remove it! It's not like changing a lightbulb!
Anyway, first off, before removing it, I checked the voltage (that comes in the smaller cable from the ignition switch,not the one in the thick cable direct from the battery) right at the starter selenoid, and it was only 8.6 volts. At first I thought it was a weak battery, but the battery voltage was 11.8 volts under the same load at the battery. And the voltage at the ignition switch was 11.6 volts. It was loosing 3 volts in the wiring path from the ignition switch to the starter motor! Then I noticed the wiring harness was getting warm that held that wire. Oh Oh.
For the life of me I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Unwilling to throw in the towel and remove the unit, I decided to completely bypass the ignition switch and the entire wiring harness, so I wired it up with my own switch I bough at Radio Shack and my own 16 AWG (the wire in the harness is 18 AWG) wires clipped direct from the battery to the starter selenoid. This is all from the front of the car. I just wanted to see if I could get it to turn and crank the engine. It worked, it cranked ok and everything, but the second time I tested it with this experimental configuration, it melted my 10 Amp Radio Shack switch! The switch was supposed to be able to handle 10 amps! Remember, this is the selenoid circuit, not the main power circuit from the battery.
So I then DID throw in the towel, and took it out, took the starter motor back to the auto parts place. ( I had a little dust-up with the parts place manager; he at first refused to refund my money. He wanted me to take another rebuilt one, but I'd lost trust in their rebuilt units and I just wanted my $$ back. We compromised on a voucher for future purchases.) Anyway, the parts place tested the problem starter motor I had returned to them, and they said it tested "bad". So the one they sold me was indeed no good. (Why they didn't test it before they sold it to me is another question.)
But here's the mystery: If the rebuilt starter motor tested "bad", and it indeed was "bad", how could it have cranked the engine with the experimental heavy guage wiring ? Any explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use way too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
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Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
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Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door
Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.
Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.
First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.
I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.
When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.
The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.
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The battery is about 6-month old and my mechanic replaced the starter last week as the car had a hard time to start. Since then it has no problem except once in a cold day (about 35 degrees) it took 10 minutes to get started. Every time I switched the key, no sound came from the starter or the engine, just like what happened with the old starter. But this only happened once. I didn't have trouble in other occasions with the new battery and the new starter. What could be the problem?
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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I have a 2003 Nissan a Frontier that won't start. I go out in the morning, turn the key, and nothing... no clicks, no sound at all. All lights work fine, radio works, all interior lights work and don't even dim when I turn the key. Searching these forums, I thought it might be the starter so I got a new starter about a month ago. Seemed to work fine until a few days ago when it started doing it again. When I go back out a couple hours later, sometimes it'll start up perfect, like nothing happened, sometimes it won't.
Somebody suggested I shift it to neutral and try starting it, so that's what I just did this morning and it worked... Tried starting it for an hour and got nothing, shifted it to neutral and it started right up. Turned it off, shifted it to park and tried starting it again. Started right up! Starter is 1 month old, so it's hard to believe it would be that. Battery weak or loose terminals? Well if it were that, why would it start right up when shifted to neutral? I don't know how long the "shifting to neutral" trick will work so I really want to get the problem solved instead of relying on a work-around.
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Toyota Corolla 2000. 77k miles
About a little under a month ago, when my dad tried starting the car, it would start up, make a weird rattling sound like "kakakaka" and then when you press the gas pedal, the car will shut down.
When we do get the car to work, and it starts riding for around 30 miles, the car seems to struggle to maintain speed and get faster even when the pedal is pressed further.
An engine light was shown for either P170, P171 or P0171 (reading off a paper and cant tell what the number is.) We took it to two technicians and neither could find what the problem is.
The light will occasionally turn off and when if you drive for like 20 miles itll come back on.
The first mechanic we took it to they removed and replaced the air/fuel ratio sensor. As well as put in a "Bosch Oxygen Sensor". Got charged 300 for this, and the lights still came on, problems were still there.
Went to another mechanic and he straight up couldnt find anything wrong so he didnt try replacing anything.
A family friend recommended a new battery, so we purchased a new one and put it in, but problems were still there.
Now today, after the car being inactive for around 10 hours, it completely failed to start. When you put the key in, it doesnt even make the usual sounds. We tried jump starting it with cables which did work, but then when we got home, turned off the car, it wouldnt turn back on. The doors wont lock (if that matters), the little light inside the car still shines though (if that matters)
Is this something I can solve, or should I take to another mechanic? If so, is it possible to bring it directly to a Toyota dealership or something? Because for the second mechanic he said he couldnt find anything because the parts were so old..
Today I took out the battery and cleaned off all the corrosion on it and put the battery back in. I tried to start up the car and it did work! I then turned the car off, and then put all the tools back inside, and when I went back out to try it again, it does not start up. However, when I put the key in, it made the usual (ding ding ding) noise, and it showed the seatbelt light. when I tried to start the car, it showed the Check Engine light, Low engine oil pressure light, as well as Charging system warning light.
I try a few more times, and after around 3 times, when I put the key in, it no long made a sound, and when I tried to start it, the lights were very very dim.
I tried my last time when it caused a spark on the positive connector.
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My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
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I'm working on a 03 Toyota matrix base 1.8. it died on the road and now will crank and sputter a little but that's all. its getting good spark, not sure about injector pulse but I do smell fuel after cranking. I have also checked the timing chain it is tight but didn't try lining things up to check if it skipped. Seems to have good compression but didn't have a gauge on me. Also tried adding fuel and it wouldn't kick off of that. I'm thinking crank or cam sensor but don't have a scope to test and don't know how else to check them.
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My battery light is coming on intermittently but the truck seems to be running fine need to know how to test it to make sure that is the problem.
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A lot of videos have audio of a knocking sound, however my sound is more akin to an extra crank of the starter. It's intermittent at best, and I thought it was actually use error until I noticed the sound occurred a few times even when I briefly cranked the engine.
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03 F-250 5.4vStandard Transmission
Thought my battery was no good , so changed it. Didn't work it just kinda bumps the motor but doesn't turn over.
Thought it must be my starter then , bought a $200 starter and changed it , still doing the same thing. It did start after changing the starter but wont now.
Neutral safety switch?
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My wife has a 2002 Thunderbird. Sometimes it won’t start when you turn the key. I don’t mean it doesn’t crank or cranks slowly, nothing happens. You can hear relays clicking but obviously no power is getting to the starter - the lights don’t dim when this happens. We’ve had the starter motor replaced. My mechanic is baffled. Sometimes this happens hourly, sometimes it will go weeks without happening – it’s been doing this for at least a year. To get it started, you just need to sit there and keep turning the key 10 to 40 times. It will eventually start. She just informed me that sometimes she shuts off the car in something other than Park, them moves to Park. Can this mess up the xmission lever position lockout to cause this? How can it just start by turning the key, only, multiple times? Remember, you can hear relays clicking when the key is turned.
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It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
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My 2003 f-250 6.0l has not been starting. I have connected a scan tool and I am getting around 1000 psi icp. The FICM voltage is 47.5v however when I cycled the key it dropped to 43.5 then started climbing to 48, but I am not getting FICM sync. I does eventually start when I do get sync. It seems to run fine after it starts. It does not do this all of the time. But this morning It cranked until the battery died. New FICM?
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I bought my 2014 Corolla new a little over 3 years ago. Yesterday, when I was leaving work to head home I went to start my car and I was just met with my starter making a loud buzzing noise. My lights in my car, car fob, and etune radio were all working properly, but the car was just not able to start! My coworker told me that he heard of a trick where if you knock on the starter with something while trying to start it, it might give it enough of a kick to get going. Whether or not it was coincidence, it did work.
I was able to drive home, about 15 minutes (still daylight, did not need car lights), with no trouble. When I got home I turned my car off and waited for a few seconds and tried to start again. It worked, but it sounded like it struggled. I did it one more time and it failed with that same noise again. I resolved that I would just go get a new battery in the morning.
In the morning, my car was able to start, albeit with some struggle again. I made it all the way to work, and over lunch I was able to start it again and drive it to AutoZone to have them test the battery starter alternator. They told me the battery was too depleted to test it, so I went across the street to Walmart and bought a new battery. After replacing it, the car started like a champ as expected, and I drove back to Autozone to have them test my alternator and starter. The starter came back good, but they said that there was a fault in the test with the alternator. I gave them my old battery and asked them to trickle charge and test it just to see if it happened to still be a good battery that was just losing charge, or if it really was just a dying battery.
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Okay so I have a 2004 Dodge Ram Hemi, the truck was running fine all this weekend and was fine this morning. Went out at lunch and used the automatic starter button while walking to it and wouldn't start. It turn over and wants to start you can hear it trying to catch but it won't catch unless you put some starter fluid in. Just changed all 16 spark plugs, all 8 coil packs, wires and 2 valve springs about 2 weeks ago have been running fine since and now this. What it could be?
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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I have a 2003 Honda CRV, 100,000 miles. Recently when I tried to start the car, maybe one out of every 10 times, the starter will "growl" and then stop. After a few attempts, eventually it will be to make a turn or two and the car will start. The other 9 times the starter will crank right away and the car starts, no problem. My wife took the car to the dealer, they tested the battery, the alternator and the starter and said can't find anything wrong. Charged $60 and sent my wife home. I did a test myself for battery (parasitic) drain and can't find anything there neither. During the time when it was hard to crank, the battery measures 12.5 volts. Two days ago the starter was silent when I tried to start the car. Did not even "growl". After ten attempts or so, I finally got it to turn and the car started. During this event, the battery measured 12.5 V and the head light was bright. Works fine since then for these last two days. Is there anything I should try before replacing the starter motor?
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