Corolla :: 2003 Matrix Crank And Sputter A Little But No Start
Apr 10, 2016
I'm working on a 03 Toyota matrix base 1.8. it died on the road and now will crank and sputter a little but that's all. its getting good spark, not sure about injector pulse but I do smell fuel after cranking. I have also checked the timing chain it is tight but didn't try lining things up to check if it skipped. Seems to have good compression but didn't have a gauge on me. Also tried adding fuel and it wouldn't kick off of that. I'm thinking crank or cam sensor but don't have a scope to test and don't know how else to check them.
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I had this issue a few times during summertime and now its winter. I have tried used STP Fuel Moisture Removal, but it seems to work a bit.
However this morning the same symptom happened again, crank the engine over in -4 Degrees *C Temperature. Engine fires but probably on two out of four pistons... rpm gauge is going up and down not stable.
I corrected this by shutting the engine off by turning the Key to position off. Then I cranked it a second time, and the same thing was happening.... sputtering.... I added a bit of throttle to get the Engine to work out the bad gas and or water in the fuel lines.
Question: Should I have let the engine idle or add the throttle to the engine?
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I have a 99 F3 50 with the 7.3 L I am done a lot of work to replace the HPOP pump and the ICP sensor as well as the IPR it cranks but does not start it will sputter and smokes but doesn't run SOS. Also there are no dtc in computer....
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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About 2 months ago I started having a problem starting my car. It would crank and crank but wouldn't start. Eventually it would start but threw a code for the camshaft position sensor. I figured I'd go ahead and replaced it. Still had the same issue after about a week without problems, except this time the crankshaft position sensor code.
I maintain my car very well, and it just recently passed 45k miles. It's a 2010 Corolla S.
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This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
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I drive a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, the Jeep had some trouble starting. It would crank and turn over and then sputter out. I tried it again and it did the same thing. After letting it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran fine. No warning lights or anything on the dashboard and nothing that seemed unusual. A couple days later, my wife noticed a small pool of pink fluid on the floor of the garage where my Jeep parks.
So I took the Jeep in to get it looked at. They said there was a leak in the coolant line as well as the pinion system, both of which they repaired. Since then, the Jeep has done this 3 more times, usually from a warm start. If it's been sitting for a few hours, it starts without a problem. But if I'm running errands, then the third time I try to start it, it will fail until I let it sit for a couple minutes. Then it will finally start up. What it could be before I take it back to the mechanic?
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Car was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
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Car wont even crank, no power to any accessories.
Car is making a clicking noise from the engine fuse book too as well.
Low engine oil pressure light also comes on too.
Checked the oil which is fine.
Checked fuses 2 weeks ago and they were fine.
Need a working car.
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A lot of videos have audio of a knocking sound, however my sound is more akin to an extra crank of the starter. It's intermittent at best, and I thought it was actually use error until I noticed the sound occurred a few times even when I briefly cranked the engine.
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My daughter has a 2011 corolla and when she first cranks the car the maintenance required light flashes a couple of times and goes out. I think last time I changed her oil, it was steady on. What is causing it to flash?
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So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
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09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
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Quick search found this post asking about changing the ECU, so it sounds like I'm not the only person to have heard this.
I've had my '09 Corolla for almost exactly 1 year and I've put 22k miles on it. All oil changes with Toyota elements and conventional oil at 1k miles and Mobil 1 5W-20 at 5, 10, 15, and 20k.
It's rattling like it isn't getting oil at start-up... intermittently. Sometimes it starts up just fine and others it rattles like it doesn't have oil for the first second or two. What's going on here?
I'm about ready to take it in to the dealer for an assessment, but with it being intermittent and all, I'm not expecting to be well-received. I know if I was looking at this as a used car and I heard what I've been hearing, I'd run.
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Went to start the wife's car this afternoon and it wouldn't turn over. Battery was fine and it cranked but would no start. I pulled one of the plugs to check for spark and i had spark on that plug.
It pretty much turned over when I told the wife to turn the key. I put the plug back in and it started right up. So what the heck was the deal here. I drove it around the block, restarted a couple times and all seems fine.
Same gas that was in there for the last several days. Was a little colder this morning than it has been but nothing extreme. The car was last driven 2 days ago, so it isn't like it sat for a long period. Maybe some water in the gas made its way into the lines and finally reared its ugly head?
From my research, the fuel filter appears to be part of the fuel pump and isn't normally serviced. What it could have been and what to check if and when this happens again? The local Autozone will rent me a fuel pressure tester but unless it happens again, I don't think its worth renting it now that its running again.
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My 2009 Toyota Matrix will turn over but wont start. I cant figure out what is causing this. So far I have replaced the battery ( Just in case ) I checked the spark plugs , they are good , If I try and start it a couple of times I can sometimes get it to start but its really rough sounding and dies instantly even if I give it gas. I also hear the fuel pump engaging so I don't think that is it. I put 5 gallons of premium gas in the tank just to make sure she didn't get some bad gas since she was almost on empty. I am lost at what to do now.
I just went over 60k miles so no warranty anymore.
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My daughters 2009 will start right up but after about a second it shuts right off we tried it several times and it shuts right down.If you wait for 10 to 20 mins it starts and runs fine.
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I have a 2009 Corolla with 67k on the odometer so it is outside of warranty. I recently found about the TSB for the grinding noise on start up and took the car to my mechanic to have it looked at. He said he wasn't able to do the job because he would have to do some sort of computer update (ECU reflash?) and he doesn't have the means.
My car is currently at the dealership, and they want around 1800 dollars, 1400 for the VVTI gear, and another 400 for a tensioner. I have a friend who used to be a Toyota mechanic, and he says he can do the work as stated in the TSB, but he's unsure if the ECU would need updating, and it does not mention anything in the TSB. So what I am wondering is if :
1. Does changing the VVTI gear actually fix the grinding noise? I was reading an old thread where members said it was still there after having the TSB done.
2. Does there need to be anything done to the ECU after doing the TSB?
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The key was left in a 2009 Corolla which ran the battery down. The battery was replaced because of age. New battery worked fine for four days. Then the car wouldn't start. Completely dead. The battery was checked by AAA. Ranger said it was fine. No power to anything expects red flashing light on the security system. I even tried jumping it.
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My 2006 would not start today after I got gas. I drove the car for an hour with no problems. I then stopped to get gas it would not start. I knew the engine was still warm because i had just stopped after driving for an hour. yet the temp gauge read cold. After a while of trying to start the car with it only cranking, not turning over I waited. After waiting a while the temp gauge started to work again showing a warm engine. The engine was also warm to the touch. I tried to start the car once the temp Gauge worked again and the car turned over with no problems and little effort.
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I have a 2009 corolla S. no warranty. 59k miles. my car gets a grinding noise whenever i start it. this is the example of the sound.
YouTube ....
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