It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
View 14 RepliesI had an issue with my 2011 6.7 this weekend and I'm clueless after doing the google search for info. My truck started overheating after driving it about 10 miles in tow with a light load (20 foot boat). So my first panic reaction is to stop and check the fluids which all check out as good on the levels if I am checking them correctly.
So it cools off and we go for another spin and now that I am paying more attention I notice abnormally high RPMs before it shifts into all gears and that the heat seems to be a by product of this. there is no abnormal vibrations of any type but it sounds like someone learning to drive a standard for the first time.
I does it almost every time. So I tried the manual shift option and it had no problem and no overheat. If it reaches the 6th gear without the overheat alert posting it runs fine but getting there seems to be an issue.
In the back of my mind I do remember hearing this high RPM before but I have a short drive to work and back so I didn't think much about it as I have definitely keyed in on it now. I have only had the truck a year and I do not know when the service was done last on the Transmission.
My battery light is coming on in the mornings for up to about 14 miles. I am showing 13.2 to 13.6 volts with torque pro. The light hardly ever comes on in the afternoon, but sometimes. I had the batteries and alternator tested yesterday at Advance Auto parts. Alternator showed good both times they tested it. Batteries showed at or just above their rated cranking amps. I have inspected both negative grounds from the batteries, the engine ground from the firewall to the passenger side back side of the engine, and the body ground on the passenger side to the frame. They look great, tight, and have not moved in a long time. I added a cable from the alternator to the fender well and it showed about 7 amps while idling before dropping to about 4.5 amps. I am thinking of still buying a new alternator anyway. That is the only think I can think of. Worse case, I just have a spare in the back of the truck.
View 12 RepliesChanged alternator yesterday, batteries 2 weeks ago, was having trouble with alternator, now it takes 2 to 3 minutes of running to start charging normal but after driving 3 to 5 miles battery light comes on, hooked up volt meter and shows charge of 14.0 to 14. 4 volts and battery light is on, why ?
View 3 RepliesHow does one pressure test for air leaks??? Truck is a 04/04 F250 with 198K ICP sensor in the valve cover.
View 7 RepliesI am working on my partner's 2007 F250, it was running great, and we did an aftermarket EGR cooler, and a new oil cooler, and of course the screen was torn in the old one, tore it all down, cleaned everything, put it all back together.......with the new parts, and no start, we cranked and cranked and cranked on it, for about 20 to 30 seconds at a time, giving it 3 to 5 minutes cool off time for the starter between cranking, about 30 times over a two day period, and no start. Finally, I decided to give it a little starting fluid, and it finally kicked off, it would run at a higher RPM, and if you so much as let off the throttle a fraction of an inch it would die, and not start again without starting fluid. I got it running again with the fluid, it was at 2000 RPM, and my mechanic reached over and turned on the A/C (we are in Florida) and it died. I have no way to check the HPOP pressure, but the truck was running great before we did this, and I checked it for codes, there are none! It will not start without the starting fluid. The longest we had it running was about three minutes, then his foot slipped back just a hair on the throttle, and it died. The truck only has 117K miles on it.
View 14 RepliesDon't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
View 3 RepliesI've been working through with hard starting on my 2002 7.3 A while back I took my batteries to Autozone and had them check them. They said they were fine but because of my hard/no start situation cranking on it for a short time (couple of minutes) kills the battery. The transmission shop said that they had to charge it after sitting for a couple of days to get it started. I have a multi-meter and know how to check the voltage. I even have AE and it gives me the voltage. Are there any other tools or procedures to check the health of the batteries?
View 14 RepliesI bought my 04 6.0 from my parents a few years back and had it gone through as soon as I bought it. I got it studded, a new hpop, new oil cooler, 8 new Alliant injectors, and an sct livewire. A few months later my oil temp kept getting high and eventually it caused an injector to go out. Took it back to the guy who originally did the work and he warrantied it.
He said the oil cooler got clogged up on the coolant side. Replaced an injector and the oil cooler and it ran for another couple months before doing the same thing again. Had the oil cooler and injector replaced again and it ran fine until the number 7 injector went out and I had to replace it myself since the guy who was doing the work on my truck decided to pack up his shop and leave basically overnight.
When I got under the valve cover I noticed that the number 7 injector pigtail was different colors than the other injectors so I'm not sure what kind of work had been done to it after all, if he'd been mixing injectors or what, all I know is what he told me he had done. The truck currently has 157k on it. whenever I go to start it my injection oil pressure spikes to anywhere from 1600-1800 and the truck attempts to run but then the truck falls on it's face and the injection pressure will not get above 350-400 for about 10 to 20 seconds of cranking.
Then the oil pressure hand on my dash moves and the injection pressure goes up again and the truck cranks. After the truck is running it has a miss that most of the time goes away as the truck warms up. Im starting to believe that maybe the hoop is going out again but I'm unsure. I'm a heavy diesel mechanic so the huei injection system isn't my forte, but I do have access to just about any tool needed.
2003 Excursiom 4x4 Limited
My first Diesel. Runs and drives great. Torque Pro app only showed coolant temp at 188. Would not show oil temp. Hard to cold start. New injectors. Has a programmer. He is asking 12K. It has 209K miles.
It belongs to a friend of mine and he rarely drives it. It stays under a cover most of the time.
I have a 2006 f250 with a 6.0 and I am having some issues with a hesitation and lose of power. The hesitation is worse when under load and other times is not so bad. Also it is non existent at higher RPMs (2500 and up). I changed the egr valve 2 months ago and it seemed to fix the issue (95%) but now it is running bad again. I used Hot Shot oil additive 2,500 miles ago and I changed the fuel filters and changed to 5w 40 Rotella synthetic oil, nothing has changed. I had the FICM changed a year ago with new software updates, still didn't fix it 100%.
Now I am having a "hard" start issue. It takes a bit for the truck to turn over. My batteries are 12 months old and I just replaced the alternator so I am not sure how to proceed.
I did just buy a Scangauge II and I am still figuring out how to use it. It says there is no codes.
I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
The last couple days the truck has been a hard start in the morning. about 28 deg F. I thought the glow plugs were getting weak or a couple of them were out.
Hooked up my AE and pulled codes, one of them was P0261 # 1 inj. Truck is fully warmed up and is running fine. Did a koer glow plug test and it came back ok. Power balance looks good now.
Probably looked different when I finally got it started this morning. Took 3 cranks to get her going and it sounded like crap till it got a bit warmer.
Don't drive the truck but once a week but since its gotten colder here than usual is been harder to start when cold. Of-course I go thru the glow plug wait and then it kinda stumbles when its about to start. I do it again and most of the time is starts but seems rough for a few seconds. Once the truck is warm, no more problems starting.
I'm wondering if I have a glow plug gone bad and that cylinder is not warming up for me. Today I plugged in the block heater for maybe 2 hours and it started first time. Also, if just leave the block heater plugged in for long periods of time.. would it get to hot?? and wonder how expensive that is, most heater are costly to run. I have a timer but just wondering.
Truck has performed flawlessly during that time period. Early build 2003 CC SB 4wd King Ranch truck 94,000 miles I purchased new in 2003. Good batteries. Bone stock except for superchips tune.
First sign of trouble: Two weeks ago CEL came on, P2285 Injector Control Pressure Circuit Low, as soon as truck was started after sitting unused for about a month. Bought new sensor, haven't installed it yet (early model sensor located under turbo on rear of engine and a real pain to change). Truck still started fine and ran fine. Dreading the ICP sensor install, I continued to drive the truck. Drove truck 5 miles to get tractor fuel. Got fuel, started truck and drove away. Got 200ft and truck died. I changed secondary filter under hood, turned key on and let pump cycle about 4 times. Truck started. Cleared codes. No longer have CEL. Drove 5 miles home, shut truck off and no start.
Troubleshooting: Changed primary filter under truck. Really cruddy (probably 80,000 mi on it). I cleaned inside filter housing thoroughly. I had to cycle pump KOEO about 6 times before it started. Shut off and immediately tried to start. No start. Ran pump KOEO about 30 seconds. Started. Shut off and same result. I then drove truck 4 miles driving both normal and WOT. No problems, no smoke, no CEL, ran perfectly normal. Shut off, no start until cycling pump KOEO for about 30 seconds. No codes set.
I then removed cap from secondary filter and checked for trash. Fuel and bowl were clean. I did notice fuel drained completely from bowl in about 5 minutes. I reinstalled filter and put pressure gauge on housing.
Fuel pressure readings: KOEO 55psi after about 3 seconds. Engine running 55psi. Turn key off and pressure instantly drops to 25psi, then bleeds off to zero over about a 3 minute time period. Does this seem normal?
Questions: Could the clogged fuel filters cause the p2285 code to set? Could the HPOP system have developed a leak and cause these symptoms?
Could an injector leak cause these symptoms and engine still run ok?
Action Plan: Install new ICP sensor. Do bubble test to check for injector compression leak. Install Blue Spring mod. Waiting on parts. Possibly buy scanner which will read HPOP output etc. Any recommendations here?
I just bought an early 04 (01/04) and it starts hard when it's cold. It starts just fine when it's warm. It idles a little rough it seems and it's putting out white smoke, but not too thick. There are no codes on the truck.
I performed the "bubble test" and got no bubbles at all. I have found that it is common for oil rail o rings and dummy plugs go bad and I'm being told that is what the problem is.
Could the oil rail seals be the problem? It makes sense to me only because there are no codes and I feel anything else would have thrown a code.
I have a 2006 F350 6.0L. That is Having trouble starting after it is warmed up. Ive been told multiple things it could be but the one ive been told the most is the Stand pipe or dummy plug in the oil rail having a small leak. Is this correct? Or is there something else i need to Check??
View 8 RepliesI have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
I just picked up a 2006 F250 6.0. It was having hard starts. Anyways before I started using it I started tearing things apart cause I knew for sure the turbo was leaking so that had to be resealed. I just picked up a 2003 turbo today for it out of a used truck that had 144000 kms on it. (was in an accident). I am gonna post up a few pics here of the engine bay area, there is a huge amount of old oil I believe to be, I am wondering if it was a leak or spilled oil. I am going to be cleaning this up. Putting 03 turbo in here, doing a service and then plug my Tablet with torque pro and post up some numbers and see how healthy she is. Before I post any pics Is there a way to make these pictures clickable instead of them taking room up on the page?
View 14 RepliesEarlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.
The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.
I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.
Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.
Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.