I have a 98 Toyota sienna and it has started making a thud noise and skipping a bit when accelerating or going up even a slight incline. I have been told everything from it needs new plugs/wires to a new transmission. Could these cause similar problems?
View 12 RepliesSo I started a "quick" strut job on my mothers 98 Toyota Sienna last weekend, after many complaints about a rattling noise on the passenger side while driving on semi smooth roads. I got in and found that the CV boots were gone, and there wasn't much grease in the boots, all the ball joints were loose, and the wheel bearings were starting to grind. So since the car is at 225,000 I ordered the parts and took Friday off. I started the job, and also found out that the inner tie rod boot was completely full of ATF(This cars power steering fluid). There was a massive 2 day struggle with the CV axle being rusted in the motor mount bracket. But I finally got it all replaced and back together.
So all told I ended up replacing the following parts; Power Rack, Inner Tie Rods, Outer Tie Rod Ends, Rear Lower Passenger motor mount, Strut Mount, Lower Ball Joints, CV axles, Wheel Bearings, Lower Struts, Upper Strut Mount, Fuel Filter, Brake Pads, Brake Hardware, Oil Filter, and the Oil. I got it all back together and just finished the test drive ONLY FOR THE NOISE TO STILL BE THERE!!!!! What did I miss? What could it be? Is there something simple I could have done wrong to continued to have the rattling noise? Also the steering wheel is off 20 degrees to the left, I could handle that, but its not my car and my mother says it needs to be fixed... PS I am planning on taking it in for an alignment, but it does drive straight down the road as it is.
My Corolla started making a new noise recently. It only makes this noise when I'm moving/giving the car gas. The noise sounds like the noise from those safety strips on the side of the interstate but not quite as loud coming definitely from the front end, possibly isolated to the driver side. The faster I go the more apparent the noise is. It's not really a click noise it's more of a dull sound. It occurs at low speeds and high speeds, but not when idling. It's almost as though the engine is running hard but I'm not convinced it's originating from the engine.
The engine idles normally and I don't think there is anything wrong with the bearings or CV joints as I have replaced the left CV joint/axle and the right front bearing recently.
I have a 1998 toyota sienna with 170k. Yesterday when I was driving on the highway, the car turned completely off, and then after about 2 seconds started back up again. When it turned off, the electronics turned off along with the engine. I had no brake power, lost power steering, and couldn't even turn on the hazards. It did it 2 more times before I got home.
The second time, I noticed that it did this when I turned on the headlights. This time the engine stayed on, but the speedometer and tachometer went nuts (bouncing up and down) and all of the console lights turned on and off. When I turned the headlights off, everything went ok. When I got home and turned the car off, it went dead. Haven't tried starting it today, but the battery light went on dimly when I put the key in.
Took a quick look at the battery. The terminals are corroded. I'm going to clean them today, but I'm feeling that it won't do much. The battery light didn't turn on, so I'm thinking that the alternator is ok (am I wrong?). Since the electronics and brakes died when the engine died, I'm thinking it's not the distributor coil. Is my ecu fried?
I had my minivan stop running while i was on the freeway. My electrical seemed a bit off, the speed decreased and it slowly died. I tested the battery and it was fine, tested the alternator and it failed. I changed the alternator and still wouldn't start. I changed the battery as well and it worked for about 2 days and then it did the same thing. Radio started to flicker, all the lights turned on and the car decreased until it didn't run anymore?What could this be? Bad gearing? A faulty brand new alternator?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Sienna (at 300k miles I want to drive until it’s dead) and the dashboard has lost illumination in several bulbs. The fuses are good and the bulbs seem fine, but there is a bad connection somewhere. I would like to start cleaning contacts in some of the junctions before tearing the dash apart again.
Which brings me to the big question: where should I look for connections that I can clean so I am sure the electrical system is providing a proper current to the dash bulbs? Besides the idiot lights (working), all I have at the moment is a single bulb that illuminates half the speedometer, while the tach and rest of the dash and air conditioning controls are dark.
As I’ve had other wiring harness connections become corroded and need cleaning over time, need to determine where to begin opening connections to clean before tearing the dash apart.
I have a '98 Sienna that's still running well (271k miles) but about a year ago it started acting strange, just a rare but minor irregularity in the normally smooth engine. A few months ago I changed the fuel and air filters, but that didn't affect it. So I tried changing the tank pick-up filter and confirming that the tank didn't contain any gunk. Again, no change. Since then the engine light has come on, but it still runs well enough for now. My fuel pressure is solid (manual specs, 50psi I think). I'm not sure if it's too rich or too lean, but I'm convinced it's fuel related unless someone has a better idea.
My suspects: fuel pressure regulator (in the fuel tank), clogged fuel injector(s).
Other potential clues: 270,000 miles on the original engine. No smoke (that I've noticed). After changing the filters my fuel pressure was perfectly solid at manual recommendations (50psi if i remember correctly). New battery, new fuel cap (factory cap; sometimes store-bought ones don't vent correctly). Sometimes the fluctuation goes away for a day or two, while other times it's hard to accelerate uphill at highway speeds. The issue is not clearly affected by temperature (same when 40° or 80°). It was much less noticeable when I drove to Montana this winter; they have a winter blend, which might have masked the problem (or the higher altitude). It's possible I just didn't notice it as that drive killed my steering pump and a CV boot, so my focus was on other problems at the time. I found today that can I make it shudder a little at highway speeds: letting up the pedal for a moment and gently giving it a little more gas causes a gentle shudder, and very rarely what sounds like a small muffled backfire.
My 2007 GX470 is making a clunk/thud noise when braking (more often when braking hard or on a downhill slope) and then again when I let off the brakes and start to accelerate. It is significant enough that I can feel the car jerk some when it happens, almost as if someone has tapped the back with their car. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesSo this phenomenon only happens when I try to rapidly open my throttle but what happens is that I feel a huge bucking in the rear while I'm accelerating.
This bucking makes a loud thud noise and I was wondering if this is normal considering the circumstances under which this occurs.
If I can guess what's happening I think my engine doesn't have enough air and when I rapidly push down the accelerator I'm trying to force in air and fuel and the result is a rapid combustion which causes the bucking effect that I'm experiencing.
I drove my 2001 land cruiser into the shop after a 3 hour drive - it was making a thud noise (sometimes) when I went from stop to go. Felt like transmission. They called and said they put it on the lift and heard a thud from the transfer case, put it down, and now it cannot go in forward or reverse, just grinds. I said - I drove it in - they replied it must have just gone out when they had it.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2005 Sienna CE with about 100,100 miles. In the past couple of weeks, I noticed that when I go into reverse, the car makes a whistling noise. At first I thought it was when I press on the brakes but it appears to make the noise even when not braking. It does not do this all the time; only sometimes. It appears to do it more when reversing and going down a slope.
I tried googling this but couldn't find anything. Some people say the brakes which were all replaced a couple of months ago.
Not sure if it is related but the car also makes low chirping noise when driving about 40 miles per hour.
I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna with approx 64K miles. Recently, I am hearing a squealing noise when the AC clutch engages (AC is working fine and blows very cold air). When AC is off for when the clutch is not engaged - no noise at all..... I have been getting alot of different answers as to what it could be and it is very confusing.... to me - it sounds like a clutch issue and I have seen videos on how to take apart and see if it is a bearing or bad clutch. I did pull the belt and checked the pulley - it turns freely and there is no bearing movement. How I can go about getting it repaired without replacing the entire compressor and other expensive parts.
View 13 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Sienna has been making some concerning noises. It makes a periodic grinding noise, the period is related to the wheel speed...i.e. the noise happens once each time the wheel goes around. I can hear it while I drive, and it's even louder when I roll down the windows. The weird thing is that the noise stops when I hit either the breaks or the gas. First mechanic says that the wheel bearings are shot, and the second says they're fine. There is no "jet engine taking off" noise that I am told is typical of shot bearings, but there is a wump-wump-wump noise at higher speeds.
View 1 RepliesHaving been on a long road trip, I noticed that every time I switch off the engine, there is a grinding noise coming from the engine. Took the van in to Toyota for a regular service, they could not find anything wrong. I then took it to an alignment place having replaced all four tires. They heard the noise straight away and think it is a worn bearing in the cooling fan in the alternator. 2007 Toyota Sienna LE FWD... The car only has 22,956 miles on it.
View 4 RepliesHad my wheel bearings replaced 3 weeks ago from a mechanic I never went to, as mine was on vacation. 3 days later tire fell off while driving. So we took it to my regular mechanic and had all safety issues fixed. New brakes, rotor, hub. But noticed that a grinding noise appeared. Took it back to mechanic, and he said that it was due to the spindle being slightly bent. Thst it wasnt a safety concerns, but will cause rotor/ brakes to wear out quicker.
I'd like to trust my mechanic, as he has always done good work for me in the past. But am a little shaky over every noise. I'd he correct?How soon should I get it repaired? I just dropped over $600 to get the can drivable again. So if I can push it off until I can afford it that would be great! Otherwise, I might need a small loan to repair.
For about a year now, my trusty Sienna has been making this intermittent little squeak. It's not loud (it's not the belt!). It seems to be coming from the passenger side, toward the rear. It only happens when I am moving. It seems to happen when I am running the AC. It is a soft little chirpy-ish squeak, about 2 seconds in duration. It sounds for all the world like a vent opening up with a squeak. Driveability is in no way compromised.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Sienna van. My garage failed to check the brake shoes as requested, so I gouged the back brake drums and had to have them replaced. Shortly afterwards, whenever I brake, in the last 2-3 seconds before I stop there is a thumping noise from the right rear wheel. It will thump a few times, maybe 2-5 times, perhaps one thump per wheel rotation. I don't feel any pulsing in the brake pedal, and except for the noise braking seems normal. Could this be due to the shoe adjustment being too loose, so the shoe has room to pulse inside the drum?
View 2 RepliesWithin the last few weeks my Sienna has begun making a terrible noise and shudder when I accelerate. It seems like it is worse on the front passenger side. When slowly accelerating from a stop it makes a hollow pitched metal scraping sound that increases frequency with speed (up to 25-30mph) and at higher speeds just the shudder, no sound. Initially this was intermittent but now it is an all the time thing.
The sound and shudder only happens when accelerating, regardless of speed. When you are at cruising speed on the highway there's no shudder as long as you are at constant speed and at any time if you take your foot off of the gas pedal the noise and shudder stop. Because of the link to acceleration I don't think its a wheel bearing.
I got a 1998 Toyota Camry with 2.2L 4 cylinders and have almost 210K miles on it.
Starting about 2 months ago, I was experiencing some minor engine kicking when it was either idling or accelerating, not really such a big deal. About a month ago, I took it to my mechanic shop and he told me that I need to clean up the throttle body. I took his advice, let him did the work and the car still doing the same thing. I did a lot of research on the internet and many people suggested replacing the spark plugs and after I replace the plugs (Bosch, not something cheap), the situation got even worse.
The engine starts kicking more frequently and violently and the “Check Engine” light came on (and flashing). I took my car to a local auto parts store and have their people get the error code for me, it was something about engine misfire and they told me I should have my mechanic to take a look.I took the car back to my mechanic, 2 days later when I called him for update, he told me the cause of the problem was the spark plug cables didn’t plugged in securely. But just before I drove off the mechanic’s parking lot, the engine did it again. I didn’t go back to ask my mechanic because I truly believe he did not want to spend any more time on my car.
Here are the current conditions of my car,
•It never fail to start when the engine is cold or warm
•When I stopped at traffic light, the engine ran smoothly, after about 10 to 20 seconds of idling, it starts kicking. It will do this no matter if my gear in in P, R, N or D.
•When the car is completely stop and then I press the accelerator, the engine will act like it’s going to choke and if I keep holding the accelerator, 2 to 5 seconds later it will rev up and going
•I will be even worse if I have my AC on.
•It runs smoothly if it on the highway
•It always acting up if I try to make a 90 degree right turn and never happens on a left turn
•The “Check Engine” light did come up again but went away 2 days later.
•I made a hard brake yesterday and it took the car about 15 seconds to be able to rev up the engine again.
Okay, my wife has a '99 Toyota Sienna with over 200 k miles. Recently, it has began making a loud exhaust noise. I looked at the exhaust system and cannot see any obvious holes. Also, her check engine light has been on for a while. I checked it and it said misfire in cylinder 5 (can't remember the code). Changed plugs and all, still the light. It also idles very high. There's no rotten egg smell that I can tell, but she does say that it seems like it doesn't have a lot of power when accelerating.
View 4 RepliesI own a 1999 Toyota sienna that has 112,000 miles. For the past few months there has been a whirring noise that seems to be coming from the center engine compartment. It started quietly and now has increased in volume. It reminds me of a speedometer cable that is beginning to fail. I have taken it to my trusted mechanic for a diagnosis and he thought it was metal on metal noise from the transmission. I have owned cars for 40 plus years and have'nt heard of this type of tranny noise. What could be causing this? It makes this noise under power and when I release the accelerator the noise almost disappears. Also there is a clunking noise coming from the passenger front wheel after releasing the brake pedal when I come to a stop. I have replaced the strut,ball joint,and lower control arm bushing trying to remedy this. I cannot find anything else that is loose.
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