Toyota - Sienna :: 1998 - Noise In Front After Suspension - Steering Overhaul
Sep 2, 2013
So I started a "quick" strut job on my mothers 98 Toyota Sienna last weekend, after many complaints about a rattling noise on the passenger side while driving on semi smooth roads. I got in and found that the CV boots were gone, and there wasn't much grease in the boots, all the ball joints were loose, and the wheel bearings were starting to grind. So since the car is at 225,000 I ordered the parts and took Friday off. I started the job, and also found out that the inner tie rod boot was completely full of ATF(This cars power steering fluid). There was a massive 2 day struggle with the CV axle being rusted in the motor mount bracket. But I finally got it all replaced and back together.
So all told I ended up replacing the following parts; Power Rack, Inner Tie Rods, Outer Tie Rod Ends, Rear Lower Passenger motor mount, Strut Mount, Lower Ball Joints, CV axles, Wheel Bearings, Lower Struts, Upper Strut Mount, Fuel Filter, Brake Pads, Brake Hardware, Oil Filter, and the Oil. I got it all back together and just finished the test drive ONLY FOR THE NOISE TO STILL BE THERE!!!!! What did I miss? What could it be? Is there something simple I could have done wrong to continued to have the rattling noise? Also the steering wheel is off 20 degrees to the left, I could handle that, but its not my car and my mother says it needs to be fixed... PS I am planning on taking it in for an alignment, but it does drive straight down the road as it is.
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I have a 98 Toyota sienna and it has started making a thud noise and skipping a bit when accelerating or going up even a slight incline. I have been told everything from it needs new plugs/wires to a new transmission. Could these cause similar problems?
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Had my wheel bearings replaced 3 weeks ago from a mechanic I never went to, as mine was on vacation. 3 days later tire fell off while driving. So we took it to my regular mechanic and had all safety issues fixed. New brakes, rotor, hub. But noticed that a grinding noise appeared. Took it back to mechanic, and he said that it was due to the spindle being slightly bent. Thst it wasnt a safety concerns, but will cause rotor/ brakes to wear out quicker.
I'd like to trust my mechanic, as he has always done good work for me in the past. But am a little shaky over every noise. I'd he correct?How soon should I get it repaired? I just dropped over $600 to get the can drivable again. So if I can push it off until I can afford it that would be great! Otherwise, I might need a small loan to repair.
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I have a 1998 toyota sienna with 170k. Yesterday when I was driving on the highway, the car turned completely off, and then after about 2 seconds started back up again. When it turned off, the electronics turned off along with the engine. I had no brake power, lost power steering, and couldn't even turn on the hazards. It did it 2 more times before I got home.
The second time, I noticed that it did this when I turned on the headlights. This time the engine stayed on, but the speedometer and tachometer went nuts (bouncing up and down) and all of the console lights turned on and off. When I turned the headlights off, everything went ok. When I got home and turned the car off, it went dead. Haven't tried starting it today, but the battery light went on dimly when I put the key in.
Took a quick look at the battery. The terminals are corroded. I'm going to clean them today, but I'm feeling that it won't do much. The battery light didn't turn on, so I'm thinking that the alternator is ok (am I wrong?). Since the electronics and brakes died when the engine died, I'm thinking it's not the distributor coil. Is my ecu fried?
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I had my minivan stop running while i was on the freeway. My electrical seemed a bit off, the speed decreased and it slowly died. I tested the battery and it was fine, tested the alternator and it failed. I changed the alternator and still wouldn't start. I changed the battery as well and it worked for about 2 days and then it did the same thing. Radio started to flicker, all the lights turned on and the car decreased until it didn't run anymore?What could this be? Bad gearing? A faulty brand new alternator?
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I have a 1998 Sienna (at 300k miles I want to drive until it’s dead) and the dashboard has lost illumination in several bulbs. The fuses are good and the bulbs seem fine, but there is a bad connection somewhere. I would like to start cleaning contacts in some of the junctions before tearing the dash apart again.
Which brings me to the big question: where should I look for connections that I can clean so I am sure the electrical system is providing a proper current to the dash bulbs? Besides the idiot lights (working), all I have at the moment is a single bulb that illuminates half the speedometer, while the tach and rest of the dash and air conditioning controls are dark.
As I’ve had other wiring harness connections become corroded and need cleaning over time, need to determine where to begin opening connections to clean before tearing the dash apart.
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I have a '98 Sienna that's still running well (271k miles) but about a year ago it started acting strange, just a rare but minor irregularity in the normally smooth engine. A few months ago I changed the fuel and air filters, but that didn't affect it. So I tried changing the tank pick-up filter and confirming that the tank didn't contain any gunk. Again, no change. Since then the engine light has come on, but it still runs well enough for now. My fuel pressure is solid (manual specs, 50psi I think). I'm not sure if it's too rich or too lean, but I'm convinced it's fuel related unless someone has a better idea.
My suspects: fuel pressure regulator (in the fuel tank), clogged fuel injector(s).
Other potential clues: 270,000 miles on the original engine. No smoke (that I've noticed). After changing the filters my fuel pressure was perfectly solid at manual recommendations (50psi if i remember correctly). New battery, new fuel cap (factory cap; sometimes store-bought ones don't vent correctly). Sometimes the fluctuation goes away for a day or two, while other times it's hard to accelerate uphill at highway speeds. The issue is not clearly affected by temperature (same when 40° or 80°). It was much less noticeable when I drove to Montana this winter; they have a winter blend, which might have masked the problem (or the higher altitude). It's possible I just didn't notice it as that drive killed my steering pump and a CV boot, so my focus was on other problems at the time. I found today that can I make it shudder a little at highway speeds: letting up the pedal for a moment and gently giving it a little more gas causes a gentle shudder, and very rarely what sounds like a small muffled backfire.
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Just recently purchased a used Toyota Camry , i love it. So far everything is great about it, only negative part is that i feel when i turn the steering wheel like a knocking sensation and you can also hear it. Its not the normal grinding sound other people are experiencing. It feels like theres something loose in the steering column. Also while I am driving i can hear like a thump on the right front suspension. normally this sound when i am going over bumbs. Is this like the shocks or something?
Just in case i have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE.
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The power steering on our 98 Toyota Sienna sometimes stops working for a second. It only happens when the car is first started and usually when it is raining or has rained recently. I checked some old posts from Tom and Ray and found one that sounded similar. They said it was the belt being either wet or worn or not tight enough. Does that sound like what our problem is? It also squeals sometimes when you turn the wheel too much so it does seem like the belt could be slipping.
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I'll try to keep it simple. MkV r32. 79k
When sitting in a parked position, engine running, and I jog the wheel back and fourth I'm hearing an awful clunking noise from what sounds to me to be the steering rack.
-The noise can not be replicated unless the vehicle is stopped with the front suspension loaded.
-While moving, be it 5 mph or 55 mph the noise can not be replicated.
-Tyrolsport deadest kit installed upfront, no apparent play in the u joint that connects the steering shaft to the rack.
There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of information about issues with mkv steering racks making noise like I'm describing. Most information pertains to subframe shifting which can't be the case.
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I recently bought a 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T about a 3 months ago, and have since noticed a couple issues that have come up with it. First was with a squeaking front suspension, but that was fixed by simply lubricating the sway bar bushings.
The second is that the steering wheel seems louder than normal when turning left/right at low speeds, mainly when parking, it sounds like two pieces of paper rubbing against each other right behind the steering wheel like a dry noise.
I test drove another Santa Fe before getting mine for about a week and didn't notice this issue. Is this a normal sound that eventually develops after having the Santa Fe for a while? I'm like at 3,600 miles.
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I have a Toyota Sienna 2005 LE minivan , when I push the brakes my steering vibrates. I checked the tire balancing at the tire store just to double check no issues with balancing he verified all looked fine on tires he mentioned it is possible the front brake rotor causing it. He said I may have to replace the rotor itself since there may not be enough room for resurfacing the rotor. My question is
is it true I cannot resurface the rotors? if I have to buy new ones is it advisable if I buy it from "Autozone or OReilly " store or does it have to be the original from Toyota ? Toyota's pricing are 4 times more than from these stores. I know safety is important so let me know which option is better.
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My wife started the 2000 Toyota Sienna yesterday morning (temp about 30 degrees Fahrenheit), warmed the engine for about 30 seconds and drove a block to the stop sign. As she made a left hand turn she was in sudden shock to feel that she had no power steering. She still was able to turn and brought the car to a stop. At that point the power steering returned and she continued her mile journey and eventual return without a problem. The power steering fluid reservoir was full.
There was no puddle underneath the car. The serpentine belt was tensioned. I drove the car to the Toyota dealer and presented the problem to a front desk technician. At first he said it could be the power steering pump or rack and pinion steering assembly. When I told him that the power steering was back after she made the return he said he'd never heard of that situation. Further, he said unless the problem was showing itself when we brought the vehicle in a repairman wouldn't be able to diagnose the situation.
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The front brakes on my 2000 Toyota Sienna are dragging occasionally. I have replaced the front calipers (one of them twice), the master cylinder, and the ABS unit (with a junk yard unit). I have also shortened the master cylinder push rod to see if that would make a difference. The brakes still drag occasionally as indicated by the front hubs becoming excessively hot.
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My 2002 Sienna has water pooling in the front passenger side. We pulled up some of the front carpet and it's soaking beyond the passenger side. We need to find out where the water is coming from. It correlates to rain, but we tried hosing the passenger door and front windshield but didn't see any water coming in.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Sienna. For the last year or more, at times -- especially when going over small bumps -- there's a rattling sound that sounds like it's coming from the left front wheel. The steering is tight and there's no vibration in the steering wheel itself. My mechanic checked everything -- including the brakes (and the caliper pins). I am not eager to replace the struts on the hunch this might be the cause, because it might not be, and that's expensive, especially on an old car which we don't drive much.
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we have a 2002 Toyota Sienna Van; recently, there has been a smell like turpentine coming from the front passenger seat. We have tried spraying large amounts of the freeze on it to no avail.
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I have a 2014 Toyota Sienna that I bought new last year that currently has 10,000 miles on it. I was driving home today when the car stalled, and smoke started coming out of the front. Firefighters came and took out the air filter, which burst into flames. They said they had never seen anything like it before. They looked over the air filter box thoroughly, said there was no more threat of fire damage but that it smelled like an electrical issue, and I had the car towed to the dealership. The dealer called me and said they "found" a cigarette butt and theorized that a lit cigarette was sucked into the air intake, which caused the fire, and furthermore, I would be responsible for paying for the damages, because it was an "outside event" that wasn't covered under warranty. I do not believe it was a cigarette, because the firemen found no evidence of one, and neither did I when I took pictures of the air filter box. So my question is, is this possible? If so, doesn't this seem like a pretty big design flaw? I'm concerned that the dealer is just making this up, so they don't have to pay for anything. If that's the case, how can I ever feel safe driving this car again?
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I own a 2005 Sienna CE with about 100,100 miles. In the past couple of weeks, I noticed that when I go into reverse, the car makes a whistling noise. At first I thought it was when I press on the brakes but it appears to make the noise even when not braking. It does not do this all the time; only sometimes. It appears to do it more when reversing and going down a slope.
I tried googling this but couldn't find anything. Some people say the brakes which were all replaced a couple of months ago.
Not sure if it is related but the car also makes low chirping noise when driving about 40 miles per hour.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna with approx 64K miles. Recently, I am hearing a squealing noise when the AC clutch engages (AC is working fine and blows very cold air). When AC is off for when the clutch is not engaged - no noise at all..... I have been getting alot of different answers as to what it could be and it is very confusing.... to me - it sounds like a clutch issue and I have seen videos on how to take apart and see if it is a bearing or bad clutch. I did pull the belt and checked the pulley - it turns freely and there is no bearing movement. How I can go about getting it repaired without replacing the entire compressor and other expensive parts.
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My 2000 Toyota Sienna has been making some concerning noises. It makes a periodic grinding noise, the period is related to the wheel speed...i.e. the noise happens once each time the wheel goes around. I can hear it while I drive, and it's even louder when I roll down the windows. The weird thing is that the noise stops when I hit either the breaks or the gas. First mechanic says that the wheel bearings are shot, and the second says they're fine. There is no "jet engine taking off" noise that I am told is typical of shot bearings, but there is a wump-wump-wump noise at higher speeds.
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