The front brakes on my 2000 Toyota Sienna are dragging occasionally. I have replaced the front calipers (one of them twice), the master cylinder, and the ABS unit (with a junk yard unit). I have also shortened the master cylinder push rod to see if that would make a difference. The brakes still drag occasionally as indicated by the front hubs becoming excessively hot.
View 9 RepliesFirst it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
View 4 Replies2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
The brakes on my 2007 Toyota Sienna suddenly went soft. The mechanic first replaced the rear pads, which needed to be done anyway, and when that didn't fix the problem he replaced the master cylinder. The brakes are still very soft. He has bled the system several times to get rid of possible air in the line, but that hasn't fixed the problem.
View 5 Replies1998 FORD E350 CLUB WAGON 15 PASSENGER VAN. Front brakes are sticking bad. Stop at intersection with snow or slick condition and you can barely get the van to start moving. After you do you can fell the drag and the vehicle working hard to keep moving. Take tires off front, can not see anything obvious that is wrong. Can see where the bake pads are leave makes on the rotor.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 f150 4x4 that has done this twice, once last year and once this year during hot (90+) weather. I'll notice the vehicle seems like it doesn't want to go. Park overnight and it will work ok. Last time it happened the other day I stopped at wally world and both front wheels were real hot and I could smell the brakes. Came out hour later and when I pushed the brake pedal to put it in gear the pedal went to the floor.
Pumped up pedal and drove off but truck would barely move, drove 10 mph to a buddy of mines shop and it sat overnight and worked perfect the next day. He inspected everything and seems to think it might be the abs control unit. He noticed a small amount of fluid had come out of the unit and dripped on the ground. Also no abs light or brake light has ever come on
I have a Toyota Sienna 2005 LE minivan , when I push the brakes my steering vibrates. I checked the tire balancing at the tire store just to double check no issues with balancing he verified all looked fine on tires he mentioned it is possible the front brake rotor causing it. He said I may have to replace the rotor itself since there may not be enough room for resurfacing the rotor. My question is
is it true I cannot resurface the rotors? if I have to buy new ones is it advisable if I buy it from "Autozone or OReilly " store or does it have to be the original from Toyota ? Toyota's pricing are 4 times more than from these stores. I know safety is important so let me know which option is better.
Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
I have a 2009 Toyota Sienna with approx. 130k miles. Recently I am noticing when driving on the highway that I get a humming/ringing sounds. It gets louder and softer as I drive. It is not always there but when it does make that sound, it is when I am over 65 mph. If I tap the brake it immediately stops but then if I hit the gas it starts again. Also sometimes when I tap the brakes (not on the highway) I do get a screeching sound. I've taken it to the mechanic and he checked my brakes and says they are fine. I just got two front tires thinking it was that but it is still there. Is there anything else that I should consider? Should I go get a second opinion on the brakes since the sound stops as soon as I tap the breaks?
View 5 RepliesI am noticing an audible vibration coming from the rear of my wife's 2004 Sienna van when applying the brakes. I have inspected and confirmed there are no fluid leaks,there is ample material left on all pads and the pads still fit snugly into the retention clips. Also, the pads and rotors show no sign of uneven wear. Front brakes were replaced in 2009.The van currently has ~63000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesOur 2010 Prius just had the brake booster recall done and I also installed new pads and rotors. The car now has issues with the front brakes dragging excessively causing lack of power and poor fuel economy. There are no codes and everything else checks out okay, the brakes function fine. Is there anything on these cars that would cause brake drag after a new brake install? I just want to ensure there isn't something I can do before I bring it to the Toyota dealer.
View 10 RepliesOn a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
View 7 RepliesTruck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
My 2000 Toyota Sienna has been making some concerning noises. It makes a periodic grinding noise, the period is related to the wheel speed...i.e. the noise happens once each time the wheel goes around. I can hear it while I drive, and it's even louder when I roll down the windows. The weird thing is that the noise stops when I hit either the breaks or the gas. First mechanic says that the wheel bearings are shot, and the second says they're fine. There is no "jet engine taking off" noise that I am told is typical of shot bearings, but there is a wump-wump-wump noise at higher speeds.
View 1 Replies200 Toy Sienna-- Had a oil leak, got it fixed. Drove 15-20 miles and Engine dies on me. Tried to restart, ignition is fine, engine does not catch on. Got it towed to shed, left overnight. Mechanic explains that car has to relearn throttle - memory got reset etc. Car drives fine now. Mechanic says, it did not start the first few times, then all he did was turn on the key and step on the Gas!! Is that right? Or did he forget to to do something? Who's memory is not working?
View 6 RepliesMy wife started the 2000 Toyota Sienna yesterday morning (temp about 30 degrees Fahrenheit), warmed the engine for about 30 seconds and drove a block to the stop sign. As she made a left hand turn she was in sudden shock to feel that she had no power steering. She still was able to turn and brought the car to a stop. At that point the power steering returned and she continued her mile journey and eventual return without a problem. The power steering fluid reservoir was full.
There was no puddle underneath the car. The serpentine belt was tensioned. I drove the car to the Toyota dealer and presented the problem to a front desk technician. At first he said it could be the power steering pump or rack and pinion steering assembly. When I told him that the power steering was back after she made the return he said he'd never heard of that situation. Further, he said unless the problem was showing itself when we brought the vehicle in a repairman wouldn't be able to diagnose the situation.
I have a 2000 Sienna van. My husband took it a shop for an oil change and now, the next day, there's an oil smell in the engine and it seems to be running hot. Here's the catch: it has a different engine from when I took it in last year to the same shop and they did an oil change and then the engine started smelling of oil, it ran hot, and after a few months the engine died (they told me checking the oil smell could wait and we were broke). I had to have the engine replaced. I would never have taken the van back to that shop! But now it's been there and I'm panicked! What should I do?
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 Sienna has water pooling in the front passenger side. We pulled up some of the front carpet and it's soaking beyond the passenger side. We need to find out where the water is coming from. It correlates to rain, but we tried hosing the passenger door and front windshield but didn't see any water coming in.
View 30 RepliesHad my wheel bearings replaced 3 weeks ago from a mechanic I never went to, as mine was on vacation. 3 days later tire fell off while driving. So we took it to my regular mechanic and had all safety issues fixed. New brakes, rotor, hub. But noticed that a grinding noise appeared. Took it back to mechanic, and he said that it was due to the spindle being slightly bent. Thst it wasnt a safety concerns, but will cause rotor/ brakes to wear out quicker.
I'd like to trust my mechanic, as he has always done good work for me in the past. But am a little shaky over every noise. I'd he correct?How soon should I get it repaired? I just dropped over $600 to get the can drivable again. So if I can push it off until I can afford it that would be great! Otherwise, I might need a small loan to repair.
I was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
View 6 RepliesSo I started a "quick" strut job on my mothers 98 Toyota Sienna last weekend, after many complaints about a rattling noise on the passenger side while driving on semi smooth roads. I got in and found that the CV boots were gone, and there wasn't much grease in the boots, all the ball joints were loose, and the wheel bearings were starting to grind. So since the car is at 225,000 I ordered the parts and took Friday off. I started the job, and also found out that the inner tie rod boot was completely full of ATF(This cars power steering fluid). There was a massive 2 day struggle with the CV axle being rusted in the motor mount bracket. But I finally got it all replaced and back together.
So all told I ended up replacing the following parts; Power Rack, Inner Tie Rods, Outer Tie Rod Ends, Rear Lower Passenger motor mount, Strut Mount, Lower Ball Joints, CV axles, Wheel Bearings, Lower Struts, Upper Strut Mount, Fuel Filter, Brake Pads, Brake Hardware, Oil Filter, and the Oil. I got it all back together and just finished the test drive ONLY FOR THE NOISE TO STILL BE THERE!!!!! What did I miss? What could it be? Is there something simple I could have done wrong to continued to have the rattling noise? Also the steering wheel is off 20 degrees to the left, I could handle that, but its not my car and my mother says it needs to be fixed... PS I am planning on taking it in for an alignment, but it does drive straight down the road as it is.