TrailBlazer :: 2002 LS - Truck Sound Extremely Rough At Random Periods When Off Gas Pedal
Jul 9, 2014
I own a Trailblazer 02' LS and its at 152,000 miles at this point. I am currently debating on whether its a better strategy to fix this current issue (explained further below) or start saving for another vehicle.
The problem I am having is the truck will sound extremely rough at random periods when im off the gas pedal. Sometimes it will try and shut off but comes back to me when jam on the gas pedal. Also sometimes during all of this, The oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and go back up once I hit the gas pedal.
Random things: AC buttons 1-4 don't work but 5 does sometimes. It also Idles at 500 RPM's instead of 1000 like I've seen on other newer cars.
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My brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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A week and a half ago I went out to my truck to go somewhere and I got about 2 blocks away and the truck started running really rough and had a big lack of power, so I turned around and scanned it with my code reader and the codes I got were p2271, p2196, p0303, p0012, p2197, and p2272. since then I've changed all the spark plugs, boots, swapped all the coils and injectors from a great running truck, fuel filter, and the bank 1 upstream O2 sensor.
the other thing that came to mind that could of caused the problem is that a few days before the problem started. I jump started a co-workers car and he hooked the cables up backwards on his car. Could this be the cause of the problems I'm having.
The truck is an 05 F150 FX4 5.4 with 180,000 miles on it.
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So I noticed when it started getting cold that my Jeep emits this extremely high pitched whistling sound and I can't figure out what's going on. I've taken it to two mechanics and both said it was a belt that needed to be replaced so I had the belt replaced and the noise persisted. I've noticed a few things about the noise, it only happens when it is approximately 30 degrees outside or lower; only while the car is idling (when I accelerate the noise goes away immediately); It only happens after I've gone above approximately 30mph; The noise will go away after I've gone through a series of idling and accelerating; and stops immediately once I turn the car off. The Jeep is almost up to 150,000 miles.
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I have an automatic '95 Toyota Corolla wagon that over the past year has had intermittent problems dying after turning on the ignition. It happens mostly when starting for the first time in the morning in our carport (which is generally flat) [are there enough red herrings yet?]. However, we can go for weeks without problems. Our battery is relatively new (1yr) and the car starts-- however, sometimes the car dies unless the gas pedal is depressed for long periods of time in neutral or park. If I can pull out of the carport without having the car die, we've never had any problems on the road.
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I have a friend with a 2012 F250. The truck has 100K miles and it does idle for extended periods. The other day his check engine light comes on so he took it the shop. They had not told him anything yet, but they did tell him that he had about a gallon to much oil. They said it was fuel.
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While driving at night time the headlights will go out at random. The marker lights will stay on and the lights will still not turn on if I switch the light switch from "automatic" to "on". When the lights are out I can use the high beams while in "automatic" or "on".
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Chevy trailblazer 2007
Between 1,000 and 2,000 rpm (only 20% of the time) I hear, and feel, a clunk that seems to emanate somewhere near / behind the driver seat. The error code (an 834 ? possibly but I forget exactly...but def in the 800 series) says " transmission component slipping".
Trans oil full, and clear.
The clunk sound happens on any terrain, and is very random. And going up-hill does not bring it on. The clunk's been happening for about 2,000 miles.
The orig transmission was replaced 15,000 miles ago.With a used one. Total mileage on car now 75,000.
Mechanics give varied explanations, and prognoses (none are good) but no one knows what's going on for sure.
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Having an issue with my brake pedal. When the car sits for long periods of time, usually overnight, the brake pedal is extremely hard to depress. I have to really press down hard in order to start the ignition. Took it into my dealership, and they actually said there was a TSB issued for something to do with the brakes. Well, evidently, they fixed it, but the issue came back almost immediately, only this time it's worse. The brake pedal firms up after 3-4 hours of sitting.
Brakes feel fine once the ignition is turned on. I was told there's no issue with driving it, but I'm not so sure I trust what I was told.
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Have a 13 Sonata Limited 2.0t and for some reason it won't start.
Also brake pedal is extremely stiff. Tried to push start button several times while pressing brake, and dash lights just blink several times.
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I have a 2005 4.2 with 89k 4wd. The brake pedal occasionally goes farther towards the floor when coming to the end of a stop. I have bled the brake lines. All brake pads, rotors, and lines are good. Could it still be air in the lines?
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My 2004 f150 xlt has been extremely shaky after exceeding 60 mph thus was a slight problem that has been getting worst it's shaking so hard I feel like the mirror is gonna fall of. What could this be?
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My sons 1998 SL1 Saturn 163,000 miles on it runs extremely rough when you start it seems like it is running on 3 cylinders. However after 10 seconds of reving the engine up runs fine. Once it warms up runs and idles fine all day but after you shut it off it exhibits the same hard starting. It has new plugs and ignition wires on it. I'm thinking a cracked coil that as it warms up starts to work properly.
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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what can i do to make my truck really lout? ive already cut 2 cats out and ran 2.25 strait pipes and its not even that loud would it hurt to cut the other 2 cats out??
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I'm not exactly sure what's going on but it feels like I'm missing some brakes - the pedal is extremely spongy, I have to push it nearly to the floor. And when they do engage, it isn't with the same vigor as they did before.
It's strange, it just sort of happened - I drove to a friend's house, everything was fine. But when I left all of a sudden, there's this problem.
It's not like the pads have come apart and destroyed a caliper - I had that happen to me a few years ago and I definitely felt it happen, plus once it did I lost almost all braking ability as the lines would just leak fluid.
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A couple months ago my car (2001 Cavalier 2.4L) started running bad, it just happened one morning when I started it up. Its extremely rough idle at around 500 rpm for about 5 seconds and then it stalls out, if I rev it up with the pedal it'll stay going and you can smell gas coming out the exhaust. the car still drives but has almost no power. I changed the plugs and gaped them to spec of .050 as one of them was corroded really bad, that didn't work, so I replaced one of the ignition coil on the side of the corroded plug,I need to replace both ignition coils or the ignition control module isn't working right.
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I know that VW's are known for funky problems. Sometimes when it has recently rained heavily, the brakes will make a crunching sound when I press the pedal down, and there is also increased pressure, as if there is water stuck somewhere. It will drive fine for a few minutes and then will start shuddering, spewing exhaust, and nearly stalling. The engine light will often flash, and for this reason I brought it into my mechanic who is a VW specialist. It was first diagnosed as a faulty engine coil, and that was replaced. The problem came back repeatedly and he said I would have to wait until it "got worse" for him to figure it out. I've been riding it out since then, and once I get to my destination and the car sits for a little bit (usually 4+ hours), it runs fine again. The rainy season has started so I'm a little worried about this happening on a regular basis. This has never happened in dry weather.
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The last few days I've noticed an extremely rough ride when in Normal Mode. In sport + mode I noticed a bit of a smoother ride where the bumps weren't as harsh. Which is the complete opposite of what's supposed to happen. My tire pressure is 36 and reaches 39-40 when hot. No clue why this is happening, should I be worried ? Should I lower the tire pressure a little maybe to much air is causing the harsh ride? Or should I reset the battery because my car is stuck in sport + mode when it should be normal.
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2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
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