TrailBlazer :: 2006 Starts And Stalls In The Cold
Jan 28, 2016
My 06 trailblazer started having issues when the weather was below 30 degrees at night. The following morning when I start it, it starts up and idles for about 5 to 10 seconds and then shuts off. Turn the key again and nothing, just dashboard lights come on. Wait a few minutes and try again.. Fires up, shuts off. If it's above 30 degrees but less then 45 to 50 outside I can use a lighter and hear up the key, put it back in the ignition and fire it up. Sometimes it takes 3 or 3 tries of reheating the key but then it will stay running.
As long as I run the heat and keep the inside warm it stays running, if the inside gets cold it will shut off again while your driving. If it's below 30 degrees outside the key trick won't work no matter how many times you try. If the temperature outside is above 50 it will fire up and drive all day without any hesitation. My husband replaced the ignition switch, alternator and battery and none worked. It's now been at the shop for 2 weeks and still can't get it figured out. The shop has tried heating up just the computer while it's out in the cold and it fires up and stays running but if he leaves the doors open and the inside gets cold it shuts off again.
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Have a 2006 trailblazer LS with the regular AC (not the digital or whatever it's called) It's already pushing 90 some days down here....
So the AC will blow cold enough to freeze me out almost as long as the truck is moving even a little bit. Stopped for any length of time though, and it blows kind of warm-ish. Gets cold again as soon as we start going.
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I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
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I'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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I recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
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Trailblazer 2008. This has happened 6 or 8 times. When fuel tank is 1/4 full or less, decelerating downhill from 50 mph to make a right-hand turn, the engine stalls as I reach the turn. Of course I lose power steering and brakes.
If I stop in that downhill position, the fuel gauge reads ZERO but the Low Fuel light is not showing. Turning the key to restart does not restart the engine but if I roll to a flat piece of road or to an uphill position, the engine starts immediately on turning the key. The fuel gauge continues to show ZERO until I turn off the ignition completely and restart. Then the fuel gauge immediately returns to indicate 1/4 full.
No warning lights of any kind show on the dash. There is no question of the gauge showing a false 1/4 indication when the tank is actually empty, since I can drive for 30 miles after the incident while the gauge slowly drops lower until I fill up again with gas.
SOMETHING tells the engine it has no gas so it stops. No stutter or indication of fuel starvation. Simply an engine shut-off.
I tried to reproduce the effect immediately after it had happened by turning the car round and retracing the route, but it did not happen a second time at that location, but it did repeat a few hours later at another intersection.
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I have a 2005 2wd trailblazer with about 100k miles. When the car first starts for the day it has a loud whining sound for about 30 seconds. Sounds like it is coming from transmission. After the 30 seconds all is good. It has been getting progressively worse. Almost sounds like a jet engine. The sound will sputter and few times and stop. Its not the clutch fan or belts. It definitely from the back side of the motor.
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It will start only in cold days and it does not have the check engine light. The dealership clear some codes, but they were not sure that the code had something to do with it. I have replace Spark plugs and wires. But that wasn't it. And it just winter just start it here in minnesota.
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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Okay. So the past two days I went out to start my car to let it sit for a minute or two. When I went back out I heard a strange noise coming from the passenger side towards the front of the engine. So I got in the car and went to drive out. I shifted into gear and went to pull out and when I turned the steering wheel my battery light came on and the steering wheel got hard. Only lasted for about a second. Then while driving I noticed the passenger side creeks when I hit a bump. Also after driving and parking I noticed my car jumps around slightly at idle
I'll get a video of the noise tomorrow morning...
Also, I do have a custom cold air intake I built myself, and a custom built exhaust.
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I have an 06 F350 6.0 and I am having long cold starts. On the gauge the ipr is maxing out at 85%. This only happens when cold and have never had a no start issue. When hot the engine cranks right up and the ipr stays in normal range. FICM has been replaced. Does this sound like needing a new ipr only?
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The air conditioning in my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer works but never gets really cold. What is the best course of action to get it working better? A do it yourself kit or an auto repair shop?
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My 2007 TrailBlazer with 84K stumbles for 25 seconds when I start up cold. After 25 seconds I hear a click and then it runs perfect. No engine codes present. Have new plugs, new O2 sensor, new thermostat.
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We have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
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2002 BMW 325i. It starts then stalls. It stalled in the middle of the road the other day while I was going REAL slow. Now it's totally unreliable. If it starts it leaves me stranded. Turn over just fine never engages.
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I've had this intermittent issue for a while where the car won't start properly. What seems to happen to me is that it starts properly, but then immediately stalls. Normally during a start it will start at about 1200rpm then quickly idle back to under 1000 and then slowly reduce some more. Now at about the same time as I would expect it to idle back to 1000rpm it stalls. After this happens, it seems like I can keep reproducing the failed start over and over again if I try to start the car again. If I wait 30 seconds or so and then try to start it, it usually works.
On two or three occasions I got a warning on the dash about faulty steering lock. Checking in VAG the only errors shown are related to those, no other codes. This has happened many times over the course of perhaps two months. It's been colder during this period, but generally it seems the error happens more often when its a little warmer weather and not really cold. Lately I've been inserting the key part way, waiting a few instants for things to initialize and then starting and it seems to work every time.
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2010 gti 70k miles, has a Cai and tbe. Twice now when I've started the car (both times after driving for at least 25 miles) it starts up I go to drive and it stalls within 50 feet. It'll turn over but stall again after a rough idle for a few seconds..the only "fix" I've found is it if let the car sit for a couple hours and come back then it starts and runs fine.. I don't have a tune yet would not being tuned cause this.
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Car has 6600 miles on it and is back in the shop for 2nd time to determine what is wrong. Basically, the car starts and then stalls out after a few seconds. It will not start again (at least with me). Course, the dealer can get it started after the tow to them.It began in April after an oil change at the dealer. A week after the change, it started up and then a message SHUT DOWN appeared on the dash.
The car stalled and would not restart. When it was towed to the dealer, it had no oil. Per the dealer, there was no leak and it was assumed the tech forgot to put oil in it, They indicated it was not a problem since there was some oil remaining but the car would still not start. They kept it a few days and replaced the relay for the fuel modulator, electronic fuel pump, fuel unit, fuel pump control unit, e-control unit and of course the battery. Note: this was a cold start.
About a month later, I had driven the car for about 30 minutes, left it for an hour and came back to the car.....it stalled again right after start up and would not restart. After being on hold with roadside assistance for awhile, I tried it again and it started without issue. .
A week later (today), used it for a half hour, came back to use it 3 hours later and same story. Started, then stalled, no restart. Towed it to the dealer and the tech got it started but no codes telling him what is wrong.
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Plymouth Grand Voyager has been randomly stalling. If I'm driving the van will auto restart if I wait long enough. If it stalls as I'm coming to a stop it usually will restart without trouble. If it stalls while I'm stopped already then sometimes it refuses to restart. Once it wouldn't restart so the cops push it to a nearby parking lot and then it started right up, as if the move shifted something. Today I had a similar experience, where it refused to start, so I let it roll and abruptly braked and then it started. This problem disappeared during the winter.
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As the title says, the 2001GMC Sierra 2500 truck has been acting up lately. This usually happens when the truck is in motion, doing about 40 mph or so. It will quit, i have to pull over to the side of the road. And it usually starts right back up. This has been going on ever since I had the fuel pump replaced about 3 months ago or so. It was doing it once every two weeks, then once a week, then once every other day. Then it stranded me at the store before xmas. Right off I thought it is the fuel pump being intermittent, and just getting worse. I am not so sure though.
My mechanic will warranty it, but would rather not have to if its not the problem. He would rather have the truck die and stay dead, and test out things from there. There in lies the problem. The pump works, I can hear it power up, and if the truck stalls, it starts right back up. One more thing. If it does not start immediately, and I don't drain the battery, it will start in an hour or less. It will not just stop working for an extended period of time. There is no check engine light on btw. No codes come up while its on the computer. I don't drive it except in the driveway to plow, for fear of having to have it towed. It works though as i have a really long driveway.
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