2002 BMW 325i. It starts then stalls. It stalled in the middle of the road the other day while I was going REAL slow. Now it's totally unreliable. If it starts it leaves me stranded. Turn over just fine never engages.
View 7 RepliesWe've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
So the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
View 5 RepliesMy son had the car and put the window down and it would not go back up. Had to drive 13 miles in below zero temperatures to get home. After searching online and doing some checking on the vehicle we found that the Driver's PW switch was dead. Went and got a used switch and replaced it and the window works find. SO, the husband goes to start it and the battery is dead so he put a charger on it and it did start but it stalls right away. It will stay running if you have your foot on the gas but as soon as you let off it stalls. If it idles at all before it dies it it does so erratically.
View 10 RepliesI have a 02 Saturn sl2 and every time I pump gas, the nozzle will click every few dollars as if my tank is full even when its near empty or half full.
2 weeks ago: I started my engine up and went about a few feet then my engine went dead. My car would crank but not fire up and I wasn't getting a reading on the instrument panel so I figured it was a fuel pump related problem. I took a look at the fuse panel for any fuses that could be blown or in bad shape. The only fuse I pulled out was the PCM-b fuse but upon further inspection, it was good and after that, it started up fine.
Next day: I get gas after work, drive home, grab a few things, start the car up, get a few feet, dies, won't start, its instrument panel reading, pull the same fuse, put the same fuse back, go on my way.
Next week: So I haven't put any gas in my car for a week and it has been working perfectly. I start to get near 1/4 tank so I put another $25 of gas in, started my car up and only got far enough to get away from the pumps when I notice my gas gauge going down, low rpm, and lost power steering. My car then died as I was pulling into a parking space. I did the same little trick and it started up again.
Today: Make a list of reasons why my car is stalling and plan to fix them from cheapest to most expensive. Start with putting gas line antifreeze as I rule out if there is water in my tank or not. ( I meant to put in one with water absorber, but I put a normal bottle in) Start my car up, get to school which is about 6-10km and when I was pulling in I noticed that my gauge was almost empty. I stopped the car and went to start it up again to see if I would get a new reading but my car just cranked. Tried a few more times but it wouldn't start until I did my little pcm-b fuse trick.
Now I am just wondering what you people think could be the problem but this is my conclusions and debates.
Water/Air in the tank - Why would does my car stop giving me an reading on my instrument panel after it stalls.PCM fault -Why does it only happen shortly after I open my gas tank (or maybe coincidence)PCM fuse blew -It works after I put it back inFuel filter clogged or fuel pump blew -why does my car start after I do the fuse trick.
Last summer, my air conditioning was blowing hot air. I took it to the mechanic where they added refrigerant. It worked. Last week, it was blowing coolish warm air on the driver side and warm air on the passenger side. I took it to the same mechanic where they added refrigerant. Now, it blows very cold air on the driver’s side and cool air on the passenger’s side. I inquired about a leak, but they said that they didn’t see one, but I could take it back in a couple weeks where they could run a dye to determine whether there really is a leak. They also mentioned that I might need to bring it every year to have refrigerant added.
I read a few articles and have concerns that they would just add refrigerant, (especially a second time) without determining the root cause of the problem. I’m also wary that they would suggest bringing it back every year and at a cost of $110, especially when I read that an unrepaired leak could have an adverse impact on other related components. Prior to reading this I was thinking of adding coolant myself every year for closer to $35. I’m also wondering why the driver’s side is blowing colder air than the passenger’s side and whether there could be a larger issue than just a leak.
I just took delivery of my 2004 325i and forgot to ask the dealership to program the key so the car would make a sound and would flash turn signals when I arm/disarm the alarm.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 BMW 325i. A few weeks ago I noticed creamy sludge under my oil cap. My first thought was a head gasket, but it's not overheating and the heat works great in the car. I'm not blowing white smoke when the car is warm. Im also not losing a noticeable amount of oil or coolant. The weather has been cold with snow and rain lately. I cleaned everything off, even under the valve cover and after a 20 min drive I stopped and looked at the cap again. I noticed water droplets on the bottom of the cap. There is no noticeable sludge on the dipstick when I check that.
View 11 RepliesWe have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
I've had this intermittent issue for a while where the car won't start properly. What seems to happen to me is that it starts properly, but then immediately stalls. Normally during a start it will start at about 1200rpm then quickly idle back to under 1000 and then slowly reduce some more. Now at about the same time as I would expect it to idle back to 1000rpm it stalls. After this happens, it seems like I can keep reproducing the failed start over and over again if I try to start the car again. If I wait 30 seconds or so and then try to start it, it usually works.
On two or three occasions I got a warning on the dash about faulty steering lock. Checking in VAG the only errors shown are related to those, no other codes. This has happened many times over the course of perhaps two months. It's been colder during this period, but generally it seems the error happens more often when its a little warmer weather and not really cold. Lately I've been inserting the key part way, waiting a few instants for things to initialize and then starting and it seems to work every time.
2010 gti 70k miles, has a Cai and tbe. Twice now when I've started the car (both times after driving for at least 25 miles) it starts up I go to drive and it stalls within 50 feet. It'll turn over but stall again after a rough idle for a few seconds..the only "fix" I've found is it if let the car sit for a couple hours and come back then it starts and runs fine.. I don't have a tune yet would not being tuned cause this.
View 11 RepliesCar has 6600 miles on it and is back in the shop for 2nd time to determine what is wrong. Basically, the car starts and then stalls out after a few seconds. It will not start again (at least with me). Course, the dealer can get it started after the tow to them.It began in April after an oil change at the dealer. A week after the change, it started up and then a message SHUT DOWN appeared on the dash.
The car stalled and would not restart. When it was towed to the dealer, it had no oil. Per the dealer, there was no leak and it was assumed the tech forgot to put oil in it, They indicated it was not a problem since there was some oil remaining but the car would still not start. They kept it a few days and replaced the relay for the fuel modulator, electronic fuel pump, fuel unit, fuel pump control unit, e-control unit and of course the battery. Note: this was a cold start.
About a month later, I had driven the car for about 30 minutes, left it for an hour and came back to the car.....it stalled again right after start up and would not restart. After being on hold with roadside assistance for awhile, I tried it again and it started without issue. .
A week later (today), used it for a half hour, came back to use it 3 hours later and same story. Started, then stalled, no restart. Towed it to the dealer and the tech got it started but no codes telling him what is wrong.
My 06 trailblazer started having issues when the weather was below 30 degrees at night. The following morning when I start it, it starts up and idles for about 5 to 10 seconds and then shuts off. Turn the key again and nothing, just dashboard lights come on. Wait a few minutes and try again.. Fires up, shuts off. If it's above 30 degrees but less then 45 to 50 outside I can use a lighter and hear up the key, put it back in the ignition and fire it up. Sometimes it takes 3 or 3 tries of reheating the key but then it will stay running.
As long as I run the heat and keep the inside warm it stays running, if the inside gets cold it will shut off again while your driving. If it's below 30 degrees outside the key trick won't work no matter how many times you try. If the temperature outside is above 50 it will fire up and drive all day without any hesitation. My husband replaced the ignition switch, alternator and battery and none worked. It's now been at the shop for 2 weeks and still can't get it figured out. The shop has tried heating up just the computer while it's out in the cold and it fires up and stays running but if he leaves the doors open and the inside gets cold it shuts off again.
Plymouth Grand Voyager has been randomly stalling. If I'm driving the van will auto restart if I wait long enough. If it stalls as I'm coming to a stop it usually will restart without trouble. If it stalls while I'm stopped already then sometimes it refuses to restart. Once it wouldn't restart so the cops push it to a nearby parking lot and then it started right up, as if the move shifted something. Today I had a similar experience, where it refused to start, so I let it roll and abruptly braked and then it started. This problem disappeared during the winter.
View 9 RepliesAs the title says, the 2001GMC Sierra 2500 truck has been acting up lately. This usually happens when the truck is in motion, doing about 40 mph or so. It will quit, i have to pull over to the side of the road. And it usually starts right back up. This has been going on ever since I had the fuel pump replaced about 3 months ago or so. It was doing it once every two weeks, then once a week, then once every other day. Then it stranded me at the store before xmas. Right off I thought it is the fuel pump being intermittent, and just getting worse. I am not so sure though.
My mechanic will warranty it, but would rather not have to if its not the problem. He would rather have the truck die and stay dead, and test out things from there. There in lies the problem. The pump works, I can hear it power up, and if the truck stalls, it starts right back up. One more thing. If it does not start immediately, and I don't drain the battery, it will start in an hour or less. It will not just stop working for an extended period of time. There is no check engine light on btw. No codes come up while its on the computer. I don't drive it except in the driveway to plow, for fear of having to have it towed. It works though as i have a really long driveway.
Yesterday I drove 15 minutes to a store and came out after 15 minutes. With no previous problems, I put the key in the ignition and there was no power at all. I checked the battery and it appeared ok. I opened the fuse box, not really knowing what I was looking for, and it looked dirty with no obvious signs of something wrong, I think. About 5 minutes later the car's power came back on but once started it idled very low and died. I tried it again and kept giving it gas and it kept idleing low and would shut off. I made it home without having to stop the car at all, meaning made all lights and no stop signs, I didnt run anything. At home I turned the car off and back on and everything ran fine. Car idled normally, would start up every time, and I drove around the block without incident. I've read information in the forum about the low idle and stall but didnt see anything that referenced the complete lack of power before the idle problem started.
2002 Toyota Camry LE, 128,000 miles.
My 1999 Volvo V70 is having intermittent issues starting/stalling out. Sometimes it will start right up and go, other times, it will start and the rpms will fluctuate then it stalls/shuts off or will go in gear but fluctuate rpms erratically it will do this multiple times after 3 or more restarts it will run fine until it is turned off then the same thing all over again.
View 2 RepliesSo, I recently bought a 99.5 Jetta. (99 with a 00 body), fixes a few things. Alternator, oil pan, head gasket. I recently drove the car just up the road, drove it back. Went to pull in to my spot and it shut off! Wouldn't start but would crank over. Days go by, same problem. Runs for about 10 minutes then just dies. Fuel pump works, fuel filter isn't clogged. And the fuel relay works.
View 1 RepliesI have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it.
View 14 RepliesMy 1998 Jimmy SLE 4.3L is having issues starting. The vehicle will start but then stop when it settles down to the idle rpm. When i turn the key I get a fuel pressure of around 52-54psi and i can hear the fuel pump running. The odd time when I can get the vehicle to run I get a fuel pressure of 55psi and the engine runs better than it ever has. Since the problem started I have changed the following:
Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
PCV valve
Fuel Filter
No codes showed during a scan and the problem occurs often but occasionally it will start without a problem. My last thought it would be a fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator. Again, I can hear the fuel pump activate when i turn the key and the fuel pressure is just below 55psi when i turn the key.
I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.